Crocodile Temples and Tears

This temple is located south in Kom Ombo, Luxor and overlooks the Nile’s blue water. It is unique in Egypt in its dedication to two gods:

Sobek -  the crocodile god - husband of Hathor & father of Khonso 

Horwer - or Horus the Ekder, the falcon king - son of Oris and Isis 

Overhead its main entrance you are protected by images of Horus - the falcon god who changed to a hawk uniting upper and lower Egypt through the ruling Pharaoh.  This structure was begun by Pharaoh Ptolemy V in 205 - 180BC.  Like many temples it continued over time and was completed by Ptolemy XII in 80-15BC. Quick math - these drawings are between 2,227 and 2,023 years old. 

There are a couple of things to note before we get back to Sobek - our crocodile god.  

First - the increase in decorative detail. The walls are primarily covered in large detailed images rather than hieroglyphics and the columns have actual capitals AND they vary, representing; papyrus (lower Egypt) lotus (upper Egypt) and palms (all over Egypt!) The human detail of muscles, navels breasts and toes along with changes to structural decorative elements are reflective of the Greco Roman period that began in 325BC. 

Second -  the incongruity of apparent deterioration. If you look carefully you’ll notice that the images on the top 2/3rds of walls looked as if they’ve been chipped off.  In fact they were, probably by Arabs who would have found images of both gods and humans inappropriate in a temple they likely used around 640 AD.  The BOTTOM 1/3 would have been covered by sand at that time.  All but the very top was covered in sand when discovered in 1893 by Jacques Morgan.  Sand - blows easily along the Nile defined desert and in hundreds to a few thousand years huge monuments can simply go missing!!

Propaganda - in ALL temples throughout Ancient Egypt, you will see images of essential gods blessing the pharaoh king, essentially elevating him to the level of a god that the people can rely on to maintain order in their world.  Here on the left is Set - shown as an anteater and known to create disorder, chaos such as sandstorms. To the right is Horus the falcon god and son of the primary triad known for his healing powers and rival of Set.  Together they pour over his head a stream of ankhs, the symbol of eternity.  For the Greeks and Roman’s, this is their way of telling the people there’s nothing to worry about. 

SOBEC - as promised - here we find in the center, the alligator god of fertility and medicine.  

The pharaoh to the left presents Sobec with of platter of surgical and ritual instruments that were used as instructed by this god of cures.  To the right is Isis, holding an ank to represent both her and Sobec’s eternal existence. There is much MORE to the crocodile story, but we’ll save that for a bit.  

The Temple  of Kom Ombo is very much known for its documentation of medical practice and cures.  

Although Horus shares the temple with Sobec, it is much more the crocodile’s story.  On the upper left, look for scissors, scalpels, drills to relieve pressure (even in the brain) suppository treatments (lots of parasites in the Nile) and a scale to ensure correct portions are used for things like  anesthesia.  At the bottom we see a squatting woman giving birth, a bee whose honey is for both nutrition and a salve and a babe being suckled.  To the right is a priestess crowned with marijuana to help with relaxation.  

The Nile’s location relative to the surrounding land is essential in understanding the position of this Temple.  Remember every year the Nile would rise. Drawings from as late as the 18th and 20th century AD show water up to the temple entrance. In ancient times this facilitated the movement of stone abc goods but created havoc for farmers.  The crocodile buried its eggs just above whatever that year’s flood level might be, which helped the farmers and stone quarry men plan.  HOEVER the farmers tending the large verdant island just a few hundred yards from the Nile’s  edge during farming season were constantly being attacked.  Yup - you can we’ll imagine the tremendous offerings made to the crocodile god Sobec.  

The Crocodile Museum - and YES you really do want to stop here!! It’s just at the end of the path to the temple and before the market place (don’t make eye contact unless you REALLY are interested in buying something) and the Nile, where your dahabiya (aka ship) awaits. 

So how revered is the crocodile? Each year the  largest was found and mummified as an offering to Subec.  Don’t be surprised to discover devotees were often killed or maimed in the process.   Hundreds have been found as well as those still wrapped in cloth with decorative weights on their eyes along with fossilized eggs and embryos.  

The story behind crocodile tears, your reward for reading this post to the end.  The Lapwing bird - pictured here - cleans the crocodile’s teeth by climbing inside it’s open mouth. Cleaning rear molars does NOT cause pain but DOES cause tears.  Crocodile tears - mystery solved! 

(Temporary Backup) Iconic Giza

The SPHINX is instantly one of the iconic images that comes to mind when you hear the word EGYPT.

Do you imagine it sitting arbitrarily in the desert with nothing around for miles and maybe near an oasis? 

Do you  wonder why it came to be and how big is it REALLY? Well let’s get to the bottom of it.  

The Sphinx is located in Giza at a funerary site in the same general area as Saqqara. (Extra points for those that remember Saqqara is the location of the Step Pyramid.) Completed in 2500 BC, it is the earliest known sculpture of ancient Egypt.  The Sphinx stands guard as you approach the Pyramid of Khafre, one of the three pyramids Giza is best known for. Why is it there? King Khafre and his architect hadn’t planned for this sculpture, but some of the limestone stone delivered hundreds of miles up the Nile from Luxor was too soft to use for the pyramid and so a sculpture was proposed.  How much stone  you ask? Enough to build a sculpture 66 feet tall and 185 feet long. (Yes, that’s just under 2/3 the size of a football field.) The elongated body with outstretched paws is topped by a royal headdress framed face that is likely King Khafre himself, which for centuries has been missing his royal beard.  (You can view a piece of his  “missing” Roy,a beard at the British Museum in London.) To mankind's benefit, Egypt’s capital eventually moved south and, with fewer people caring for the funerary site, wind swept in sand, eventually covering the Sphinx up to its neck along with other pyramids on the site.  This is the primary reason why they have remained intact until discovered by Auguste Mariette in 1852. 

The Giza plateau contains 3 pyramids for three different kings, each worthy of note for different reasons, while all sharing some common attributes. 

All three were built at separate times during the lifetime of their respective  king for their eventual entombment. Each had accessory pyramids for purposes such as body preparation or, in the case of Menkaure, for each of his three wives. Each took about a decade to build, primarily by thousands of farmers during the 4-months of the Nile’s summer flood season between June and October. Beyond employment, these workers wanted to honor their god kingwhom they relied on for balance and predictability in their world. Stone was brought up via the flooding Nile which rose spreading several miles to the edge of the Giza plateau. The design innovation of these, as compared to the earlier step pyramid, is that although they all began as stacked granite or limestone mastabas, limestone was used to create the smooth finish we associate with Old Kingdom Egyptian pyramids and which can still be seen atop King Khafre’s pyramid.

 

So you are probably wondering about scale and what some of the general statistics we are talking about here. 

King Khula’s pyramid is generally referred to as the Great Pyramid. In the late 1700’s Napoleon’s explorers counted nearly two-and-a-half million blocks, each weighing on average 1.5 to 2 tons.  Until the 19th century it’s 450 feet made it the tallest building in the world.  The structure’s precision is amazing - the greatest difference in length between the four 756-foot sides is only 2 inches.  Really.  The construction methods and exact purpose of some of their many interior chambers and shafts are unknown, but this fantastic architectural achievement is indisputable. 

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So what do we recommend? Make your way to Egypt and see for yourself.  Over the centuries, both BC and AD, many have broken into and robbed the pyramids.  In the 12th century one of Cairo’s sultans attempted to dismantle Menkaure’s pyramid, which at about one quarter of the size of the Great Pyramid is by far the smallest of the three.  After eight months the project was abandoned after only achieving  the vertical scar seen on the north face.  Medieval rulers of Cairo also took and used most of the limestone for their own monuments. In the 1700’s archeologists began removing sand and uncovering these treasures. In the 1800’s hundreds of boats would travel the Nile to see these, and other, treasures as part of the Grand Tour.  Today, tens of thousands arrive annually.  

With the growth in Cairo and Giza populations, we need not worry about the pyramids or the Sphinx ever again being buried in sand.  However, Steve may just bring one home, if he can shrink it down enough to fit into his roll on bag. So come and be wowed by one of the world’s mysteries! 

27th Century BC and 9.5MM People

Nope this isn’t a photoshopped image. The Kaufman’s are once again on the move in Egypt!

 

First - It’s terrific to be in touch with all of you again! 

Second - I’m a bit rusty, (i.e. you may have received a couple of random posts) so please bear with me.

Third - Visiting Egypt means covering centuries in hours, so entries may not be as thorough as in the past. 

Welcome to the Step Pyramid of Djuser - the prototype for ALL other pyramids - period. 

Built in the 27th century BC by Imhotep, the high priest and architect for Pharaoh Djuser, who desired something beyond the traditional “Mastabas” which were underground rooms covered by low box like mud-brick structures.  You can almost imagine the meetings between Djuser and his architect, Imhotep:

 - Imhotep, I want to do something different. What if we used limestone instead of mud and we made it a bit higher. 

- Two stories is affective your majesty, but can you imagine the presence if we added another?

- Yes and if we continued to step back the mastabas even more, the structure would look as if it was reaching for the stars!

And so it was.  The 205 foot high limestone structure was built ad renegotiated one mastabas at a time and completed in 20 years, in around 2605BC - yes that’s 4,627 years ago. After his resurrection, the giant stairway would allow King Djuser to join sun god Ra in the sky. Imhotep, who the Greeks later honored as the king of medicine, allowed for both a burial chamber 41 feet below the pyramid and a store room yet another 40 feet down, that was filled with 30,000 jars - the most important made of granite, alabaster and schist. 

The Step Pyramid is located in Saqqara, Egypt’s  Old Kingdom’s (3,100 - 2,000 BC) funerary site for royalty and close to the then capital, Memphis. This City of the Dead is one of Egypt’s richest archeological sites with monuments spanning 3,000 years. There are numerous sites to see here. Although many of the pyramids were eventually raided, there are numerous examples of Pharaonic art which began here. In essence, one cannot truly understand what we think of as Egyptian art and architecture without first coming to Saqqara.  As Memphis grew, so did the site, eventually covering 4 miles.  (More on this later)   With the exception of the top of Djuser’s  pyramid, the site was buried in the sand for centuries, until uncovered in 1851 by French archeologist August Mariette. 

So where is Saqqara? In Giza, fifteen miles southwest of Cairo. 

SO WHAT ABOUT CAIRO??

Where to start:

- Egypt’s capital city has a population of 9.5 million in a country of 102 million. 

- Want to feel like you live in a small city without traffic and with enough housing? Come to Cairo.

- Truly a city that never sleeps - restaurants, stores and sporting venues seem to be open 24/7.

- Public works are everywhere, architecture is widely varied, with Minarets slim towers punctuating the cityscape.

- COVID continues to be taken seriously here, so have your QR code ready and bring masks and hand sanitizers. 

Vieux Montréal - So Close, Yet a World Apart

Montréal is a bit of an enigma. As a Western city, the first impression is deceptive familiarity.  However, its history and the confluence of a broad ethnic mix,  combined with a decidedly contemporary vibe,  creates a mix not found anywhere else. Did I mention. The primary language heard is French?  Consider these few Montréal facts:

- Second largest French-speaking city in the Western world, after Paris

- Only14% claim English as there mother tongue 

- 19% “allophones” claim neither French or English as their mother tongue, but speak both - which speaks to the city’s diversity 

- Second largest Jewish population outside of Israel (NYC is the first)

- Bagel and smoked meat are an obsession of everyone who has ever lived here

- Settled by French Christians in 1642, although first visited regularly by the French beginning in the 1500’s

- Canada's commercial capital, until 1976 when it voted to support the sovereign status of Quebec and maintain its French heritage, which resulted in a migration of businesses to Toronto (Montrealers say “Se la vie”. )

After early French contact in 1535, the first European settlement, Ville-Marie (City of Mary) was founded on Montréal Island in 1642 by 54 French men and women on what today is referred to as Vieux Montreal. The settlement was intended as a “Christian commonwealth” and flourished under the leadership of three French noblemen who hoped to create a Christian society in a land long inhabited by Iroquois Native Peoples tribes - the Hurons and Mohawks. Montreal sustained invasions by British and Scottish. They partnered with British Colonists (that’s us) in 1776 and throughout with Native American peoples. After the end of the Seven Years’ (aka, French and Indian War  ) it became a British colonial capital,  until its self-governance was finally secured  in 1867. 

The iconic Gothic revival Basilique Norte-Dame-de-Montréal (Our Lady of Montreal Basilica) reflects its commitment to the settlement’s  original  cause. Upon its completion in 1683, its  architect was so moved that he converted to Catholicism.  After a fire, the Basilica was rebuilt in 1829. Today church spires throughout the city and stain glass as an art form speak to the catholic founders enduring influence.  Mark Twain once said Montreal “is a city where you couldn’t throw a brick without breaking a church window.” Definitely take an organized tour of the Basilica and do so during an organ concert. The sound of the Casavant organ (designed and built in Canada), is one of the largest in North America and known to move listeners to tears. The stain glass design varies widely throughout, including some designed by Limoge. If nothing else, attend  Aura - an 40-minute evening music and laser light show that shows the Basilique off to great advantage and you will never figure out how then optics are done! Tickets are inexpensive, but shows regularly sell out, so purchase and pick tickets up ahead of time. Don’t bother waiting on the pre-opening lines.  The doors open 20 minutes  prior to the show, so there is time to wander through the church and, trust me, there’s not a bad seat to be had!

Vieux Montréal was once enclosed by thick stone walls. Today, cobblestone streets prevail on the Island of Montreal, located at the confluence of the St Lawrence and Ottawa rivers.  Walking along the port and seeing the area’s original stone warehouses and residences tell a visual story of how a rapidly developing fur trade and commercial success that made Montreal one of the most propserous cities in 18th century Nouvelle France, controlling virtually all of the wealth of the young Dominion of Canada.  However, you can’t also help but see how the area has evolved. Visitors and residents alike admire modern ships, ride the Grand Roue (ferris wheel), try the zip-line or rent a bicycle. Strolling down Rue Saint-Jacques and Place d’Youville provides a wide selection of anything one needs for delightful day or night activities. Volt, Naïf and John Fluevog are Canadian based shops and designers that are absolutely worth a look - and maybe space in your suitcase -  along with a bottle of maple syrup, of course! Galleries and art spaces, such as the Darling Brothers Foundry, are all right there. In need of refreshment?  Not to worry.  It’s difficult to find a bad meal.  Coffee shops abound. Try Tommy’s for breakfast or lunch. Look for Auberge St Gabriel for a bit of history with your meal; built in 1688 and the first auberge in North America to receive a liquor  license.  The Restaurant Bonaparte has exquisite French inspired and beautifully plated food in its Napoleon themed inn.  But it is Ikanos’ wood fire cuisine with delectable fish that will tempt you to return, even if Greek food isn’t your thing. Book a room at Le St Sulpice; ideally located just behind Norte Dame, this boutique hotel is all suites, some with a working fireplace or outside balcony and a truly delicious on site restaurant with incredible concierge service, all at a very reasonable rate. 

Although an entire weekend in Vieux Montréal would be a delight, you might need to walk off some of those calories. Venture outside of the old port area to the city proper. Head for the 500 acre Le Parc Du Mont-Royale (Mount Royal Park), designed in 1876 by Fredrick Law Olmsted, the father of American landscape architecture. One of Montreal’s largest green spaces, this sprawling public park atop a large hill features Beaver Lake, walking paths, picnic areas, historical sites and year round activities; from picnicking in summer, bird watching and  jogging paths to ice skating, snow shoeing or cross country skiing in the winter - all without leaving the city.  The illuminated 98-foot tall Croix sur la Montagne (Cross atop Mount Royal) was erected in 1924, largely with money raised by high school students.  Its original 249 lightbulbs have been replaced with LED lights that can be seen from up to 50 miles away.  The monument is in recognition of the original cross  installed in 1643 by one of the city’s founders to fulfill his vow to the Virgin Mary in his prayers to end a disastrous flood that threatened the early settlers.  Today the 98-foot tall Croix sur la Montagne (Cross atop Mount Royal) was erected in 1924, largely with money raised by high-school students. It stands 252 meters above the St Lawrence River, making it one of the highest points in Montreal. Next to the cross, a plaque marks the emplacement of a time capsule buried in 1992, during Montreal’s 350th birthday celebration, and scheduled to be open in 2142.  The views from Chalet du Mont-Royal over the city to Vieux Montreal, St Helene and beyond are simply magnificent. Inside the chalet are murals depicting scenes from Canadian history.  Columbus Day weekend offers a display of colorful leaves difficult to match anywhere in the northeast. A walk along Beaver Lake is both beautiful and relaxing. 

Part of what makes Montreal truly unique is it’s embracement of both diversity and history.  The 1972 referendum that established Quebec, and so Montreal determination to embrace its French heritage and legally made French its primary language. However, Montreal had a long history of welcoming other cultures and nationalities.  (Note: unlike “other French speaking” countries you may have traveled to, English is widely understood and patience prevails when language differences create a challenge.  Just saying.) At the edge of Vieux Montréal is a vibrant Chinatown.  Just beyond, as you head toward Mount Royal, is what is locally referred to as The Main. A multitude of various ethnic groups settled here, including Italians, Portugese, Greek and Eastern European Jews. Many of these communities maintain a foothold here to this day. Of particular note is the Jewish community.  Victorian homes often belong to Hasidic Jews that cluster in neighborhoods with “no cellphone signs” and shops that cater to dietary and other needs. Interspersed are other ethnic groups and trendy millennials, all proudly enjoying a rich selection of traditional foods and more modern shops.  A particular style of bagel, or biegel, is unique to Montreal.  The addition of a touch of honey and a heavy seed coating combine with a flatter bagel define the Montreal bagel. But you will need to decide if you prefer St Viateur versus Fairmount.  Come early.  The lines reach around the block.  (Join a Beyond The Bagel tour to navigate the crowds and understand the history of this community through its food. Include a stop at the Jewish Museum for the Shamta Factory tour.) Your  next big decision is which smoked meat you prefer; Schwartz’s on St Laurent Boulevard was established in 1928 and is considered the gold standard. Smoked meat is a Montréal gastronomic art; brisket is brined for up to 14 days in savory spices, then finally smoked and steamed. Of course, there is also Wilensky’s, originally a cigar store, but long known for its special grill pressed sandwiches, particularly the salami, all-beef bologna and cheese  Wilensky Special. All traditionally served hand mixed cherry cola or chocolate egg cream soda is recommended. While pondering these life defining decisions, enjoy a wide array of murals, readily found along The Main and beyond.  Montreal is a wonderful, easily manageable city of just under 2-million, with 4-million in the broader metropolitan area, making it the second largest city in Canada. (Toronto is the largest, and those that read this blog, know we visited there a few years ago.) We organized this trip for a group of long time friends we travel with every year.   If you haven’t been here recently, you should return. If it’s your first time, your only question will be why you waited so long?

Sure Signs that the Year is Waning - In Spite of the Weather

Summer’s end and Autumn’s arrival in years past used to be such a specific period of time. For one thing, it actually slowly but consistently got chillier and chillier until the one traded in tee shirts and sandals for sweaters and boots.  The chill in the air complimented the crunch of fallen leaves, the sound of leaves being raked and a smell that was unique to the season. Not so much these days.  More often than not, you might still seriously being considered wearing shorts on Columbus Day even though you live in Boston! Instead, now we look more to events that remind us that it is THAT time of year. You know - school begins and we prepare for the the Autumn and Winter holidays leading to the inevitable end of another year.  Well, here are 4 other ways, you’ll certainly know that the Summer to Autumn transition is under way.  

1 - MAINE - For the Kaufman’s summer’s winding down means escaping to Maine on Blue Chip - pictured in the upper right photo. Boating through mountains, waiting for light to break through fog and anchoring out (aka “swinging on the hook”) to indulge in some of the most amazing sunsets you’ll ever experience in this lifetime. Lobsters were available in abundance this year - unusually tender and sweet.  And then there were maverick crustaceans swinging on barber shop poles! One note - Booth Bay Harbour has sadly succumbed to tee shirts and fudge shops, so if your in the area, give Rockland or Camden a try. Further east you’ll find Little Cranberry Island, which is pure heaven for wandering and a meal at The Islesford Dock. If you stop in Portland, seek out Ramblers Way. Tom Chappell, of Tom’s of Maine fame, has established a clothing line of beautifully designed, very light weight, fashionable, packable washable wool. Not finding in the US, the high quality wool needed, he also bought a sheep farm in southwest Maine to breed Rambouillet. Stop by the store.  The tall man with thick white hair, his wife Kate or one of his daughters will likely be there.  Delightful - both the family and the clothing. 

2- JARCZYNSKI  POST LABOR DAY WEEKEND ON LBI - For years the Jarczynski cousins have gathered on Long Beach Island the weekend AFTER Labor Day.  Sure, decades ago Karen’s annual extended family met the Saturday after Christmas, and you had better have been there or risk hearing about it for the rest of your days! But the numbers have swelled with four generations including cousins, their children and now grandchildren (the term “cousin” is used VERY loosely in the Jarczynski clan) so that a beach weekend lets us all really spread out. I’m not truly sure how many people actually make up the Jarczynski clan. But I can tell you that if you live in the US and the name Jarczynski is in your family tree, there’s about an 80% chance we’re related. Get in touch and make your way to LBI. There’s always room for one more! 

 Do you know about LBI? It is an 18 mile long barrier island that is a half-mile at its widest point; located 24 miles north of Atlantic City and 101 miles south of NYC. The island has been continuously settled since 1690. In the early years it was known for hunting, whaling and shipping.  Tourism became increasingly important as early as the early as the 1800’s and a bridge was built across Barnegat Bay. A shark attack in Beach Haven unfortunately killed a student in 1916, inspiring the book and movie Jaws.  (Yes, the movie that kept you out of the water for an entire summer when it came out in 1975). Today fishing and tourism are both the Island’s mainstays.  You will find all of the charm you could want, without all the fuss - a fact of pride for those that call LBI home - and for those of us that look forward to a visit.  Try the cash only Hudson House in Beach Haven. It has been here, well, since forever. The proprietors don’t waste money on paint for this dive bar, yet it has LOTS of atmosphere - perfect if you like a juke box, darts, pool and shuffleboard. Dress code is everything from sequins to cutoffs, evidence that everyone is welcome here! 

3- RED SOX - CLOSING HOME GAME - Baseball at Fenway is truly one of the things that define the city.  Okay, so you may have heard that after winning the World Series last year, we didn’t make it quite that far this year.  However - you would have never known it by the continued sold out stadium throughout the 2019 season. (Bostonians puzzle when they watch baseball on  TV and see half empty stadiums.) Last home game of the season is all hands on deck for the Sox faithful, no matter how young or old. Standing to sing Sweet Caroline at the top of our lungs during the middle of the eight inning is only made sweeter when the boys win with a walk off home run!  See you at Fenway next year!

4- PUMPKINS AND GOURDS OF ALL KINDS - If all else fails, look to see what’s gracing people’s steps, lawns and tables in Boston.  This year, the drama of white and black pumpkins are creating dynamic statements in Boston’s Back Bay.  Then there’s the Glass Pumpkin Patch at MIT, created to raise funds to support MIT’s Glass Lab.  This year, these brightly striped gourds by Olivia Cheo truly stood out.  Missed the glass pumpkins, try the farmers market at Copley Square for a little Autumn inspiration!  

Certainly any of the above heralds the end of Summer and the beginning of Autumn, even if we haven’t quite put our tee shirts away.  We’re gearing up for the beginning of a new year,  which is coming much to quickly.   More soon!

Helsinki, Riga, Klaipeda and Warnemünde - That’s It!

Helsinki, Finland - you know, that Scandinavian country that, like Iceland, confuses most of us because it not part of that neat little cluster with Denmark, Sweden and Norway.  (Yes, there is also Greenland, an autonomous Danish territory, which is very defineitley NOT for sale.) And frankly, the “other” Scandinavian countries can’t quite figure Finland out either. Similarly, the Fins will proudly tell you how different their culture and language is. Helsinki is the country’s capital and by far its largest city, with a population of 1.5 million in a country of 5.5 million.  Her maritime feel, the mood and architecture is much more akin to Eastern Europe and Russian cities than anywhere in Scandinavia, which she had been part of since the 13th century when Sweden slowly began taking it over. It was a Grand Duchy of Russia from 1809 until 1917, when it took advantage of the Russian revolution and declared its independence. It joined the EU in 1995. Considered very progressive, Finland was the first European state to grant all adults the right to vote.  Although traditionally agrarian, innovation and technology has made its mark. The country essentially skipped land lines, going directly to cellular, and Nokia is a major Finish brand. It has one of the world’s highest per capita incomes and standard of living, while achieving 2nd in the world in closing the gender gap disparity - all while embracing the Nordic social welfare model. (Hmmm guess such a thing really is possible.) No wonder Finland rates in the top 5 on the world’s Happiness Scale.  Visit its iconic Cathedral, stroll through its parks, wander it’s food and craft markets and you’ll be happy too!

There is an ease and playfulness, along with a sense of order that is readily felt here and is reflected in the simplicity of the flag’s bright blue cross on a white ground representing Finland’s 168,000 lakes and 179,000 islands.  Merimekko has been celebrated around the world since 1951for its original bold, simple, enduring design of housewares, fabric and clothing.  Environmentally conscious, Finns proudly protect the 400 remaining indemic  Saimaa Ringed Seal by simply eliminating fishing nets at the lake where they live.  Suomenlinna is a “must visit” inhabited 18th century fortress. Originally built as protection against Russian expansion, this 8 islands UNESCO World Heritage Site is readily accessible by ferry for hiking, picnicking and relaxing.  Evie enjoyed a moment of victory atop a cannon. Watching today’s multi story commercial and fishing ships thread through its islands is a nail biting experience.  A wonderful museum and gallery space, with a handful of places to pick up a bite topped off our visit, although some of us were intrigued by the dozens of people attending a festive day of yoga. 

Riga is Latvia’s capital and located between Estonia (you remember Tallinn) and Lithuania (coming up next). Lithuania was named by the Germans in the 12th century, after the Livonain people who lived here.  Like many other Baltic countries, it was rule by Swededen, Poland and Russia and gained its independence in 1918 (.... following a theme here?) In 1930 it was forced back into Russian control, followed by the Nazi’s (more on that in a moment) then reoccuiped by Russia until finally regaining its independence in 1991 and joining the EU in 2004.  Today 26% of Latvia’s population is ethnic Russian, creating ongoing tensions with Russia, who would love to regain its valuable ports.  Riga has a large, charming cobblestones medieval town center with a playful festive feel. Pastries and pastel meringues, some as whimsical creatures, are tempting with a cup of coffee.  Note the dark skinned figure holding the red and white flag on the fairytale like pink facade of the House of the Blackheads that we also saw in Tallinn. There are also blocks of art nouveau facades, reflecting a time in the late late 1800 through early 1900’s when Riga’s population tripled and the city was quite wealthy, in part from its impressive port - which again is a mainstay of its economy, along with tourism, in this city of 640 thousand in a country of 1.9 million.  

There is also a much darker side to Riga’s story. The pogroms (a Russian term describing the riots and massacres aimed at Jews) of the 19th and early 20 century had not affected independent Latvia. Many Russian and Eastern Jewish people chose to emigrate here. Yiddish became their primary language, with Hebrew as the language of educational instruction.  Their economy flourished. Jews formed political parties and participated as members of parliament.  Before World War I there were 190,000 Jews in Latvia, nearly 10% of the population. The population declined during WWI, with a majority remaining in Riga. Stalin invaded Latvia in 1940 and deported many Jews to Inner Russia and what was to become Israel. Beginning in 1941, German Nazi’s murdered 90% of those who remained, as well as German Jews that had been forced into Riga.  Most notably was the Rumbula massacres, when the Nazis killed over  25,000 Jews, in just a couple of days, in the Rumbula forest very near Riga.  The Riga Ghetto Museum does a uniquely engaging description of what it was like for the people who lived through the Holcuast period; from the three and four room wooden homes shared by up to 30 people, to the bronze cast of the old synagogue, the reinterpretation of old photos to paintings and transcriptions of letters with pictographs to communicate to Jewish people who were forbidden to learn to read. Today there is a vital Jewish community of approximately 5,000 living in Riga. 

Klaipėda, Lithuania - is a charming and very popular destination for those living in surrounding countries.  And why not? It has lovely silky sand beaches that remind us of the Long Islands Hamptons without the over development.  The food is delicious - with potatoes being THE most popular ingredient, but please don’t pass up the bright beetroot delicacies. Klaipėda is Lithuania’s third largest city, yet its old town’s seaside location feels like a charming medieval town with cobbled streets and canals with a distinctly German flavor.  Those in-the-know take the car ferry to nearby Juodkrantė.  This is an island of forests, beaches and a charming small town. (Imagine a larger Shelter Island with hills.) People search for amber in the beach. Oversized weathervanes with whimsical designs in nautical colors top homes near the sea to guide fishermen home to their families. Witches Hill rises up 140 feet from the sea. They say from time immemorial it has hosted banquets of reveling devils and witches.  Wander it’s paths and view 80 oak sculptures from woodcarving artists from all over Lithuania that telll the story of Neringa and Naglis. However, it might be safest to return to Klaipėda and stay at Michaelson boutique hotel. Located in an old brick storehouse, it’s located right on the water, with no devils or witches reported to date.  

Warnemünde, Germany - is the last “blog stop” for this Baltic Cruise trip. Founded in the 1200’s, for centuries Warnemünde remained a simple fishing village. It was purchased by Germany in 1323 to safeguard critical access to the Baltic Sea. Today it acts as a gateway to the city of Berlin, which is 153 miles inland.  The 150 miles of beach and seaside towns welcome tourists.  We were fascinated by the rattan Strandkorb, aka beach chair . Folded up they store all manner of beach gear, but open to reveal seating for two, foot rests and canopy protection from the sun.  The complexity and extreme engineering indicate that this is clearly the Mercedes Benz of beach chairs! The grandkids joined us for coal powered single gauged train trip into the countryside. (We decided the electric car we use in Boston had given us enough carbon credits.) Nearby Doberaner Münster is the charming main Lutheran church located in Bad Doberman, Mecklenburg.  This charming UNESCO World Heritage Site is what remains of then1368 Doberan Abbey, which was used as the burial site for regional rulers and the abbey’s monks.  The interior altars, sculptures and artwork collectively create a magical, fairytale like experience. Swans have made the grounds their home. 

St Petersburg - Colorful, Historical, Whimsical

Glistening gilded onion-domes, an unabashed bright color palate and whimsical Baroque architecture,  combine with an intricate canal system to make St Petersburg a city like no other; and its historic center UNESCO World Heritage Site worthy. Tsar Peter the Great founded the city in 1703 as Sanct-Peterburg. He was the first Russian monarch to travel outside of  Russia. He subsequently devised a plan to lure European trade to a new Russian port further south than Arkhangelsk in the White Sea, which would  inconveniently freeze over in the winter months. His vision was to build a city Europeans could relate to architecturally and by requiring that his court to adopted European dress, win them over culturally as well.  Inspired by Amsterdam’s canals, he hired Domenico Trezzini to design the layout of the city and, along with Jean Baptiste Le Blond, its Petrine Baroque buildings wich incorporated Byzantine onion shaped domes. This marrying of West with East gives the city its unique fairytale-like character. Other Russian nobility contributed to its expansion. Both Elizabeth and Catherine the Great added tremendously to of the city as an architectural and cultural wonder. 

This vision came at tremendous cost.  The city is situated on the Neva River at the head of the Gulf of Finland on the Baltic Sea.  Although it has an amazingly large and protected harbor, the area was essentially a swampy estuary dotted with a few small islands. Creating the city required a landfill project that make New York and Boston seem like child’s play.  Tens of thousands of conscribed peasants and Swedish prisoners of war died during its initial creation. In total, it is estimated that two-hundred-thousand died over the twenty years it took to build St Petersburg. 

In his short life, Peter the Great (1682-1725) successfully established the city and moved Russia’s capital from Moscow to Sanct-Peterburg. In 1732, Empress Anna established it as the seat of the Romanov Dynasty, where it remained until the Dynasty’s end in 1917. Over the years it was renamed Saint Petersburg, Petrograd and Leningrad. With few short exceptions, Russia’s capital remained here until Lenin moved the capital to Moscow in 1918.  Today it is the northern most metropolis in the world, considered Russia’s cultural capital and is the country’s second largest city with over five-million people.  

The Winter Palace we know today was built between 1754 and 1762. It was begun by Empress Anna and expanded by Elizabeth to reflect the might and power of Imperial Russia.  It has 1,500 rooms, 1,768 doors, 1,945 windows and 117 staircases and has 176 sculpted figures along its roofline.  Situated along the Neva River, the iconic State Hermitage Museum occupies only six of the Winter Palace’s multitude of buildings.  Its probably best known neoclassical inspired Tiffany green and white facade with gold trim, just gives a hint of what is inside. The Hermitage’s design intent was to create relative simplicity to the opulent Winter Palace, which it connected to via covered walkways and  heated courtyards that held rare birds.  It’s purpose was to house an international collection of art and objects.

After the fall of the last Tzar, Nicholas II, in 1917 the Hermitage was expanded to include other parts of the Winter Palace, which include The Russian-red throne room and Malachite Room, among others that still inspire visions of Tzarist Russia.  Many of the rooms’ surfaces are highly embellished.  Wood floors are inlaid with rare woods from around the world.  Arched hallways are covered in paintings and mosaics.  Soaring ceilings with gilded statuary can be found  everywhere outside of the art object laden galleries.  It’s literally dizzying. 

The Hermitage collection is worlds 2nd largest, most comprehensive and finest. The collection was begun by the purchase of 255 pieces from a Berlin art dealer made by Catherine the Great in 1764.  Put together over two and a half centuries, it’s 3 million pieces reflect the development of the world from the Stone Age through the 20th century.  The paintings include many of the best known Renaissance and pre-Renaissance artists.  Renoir's Prodigal Son is simply magical. Leonardo Da Vinci Madonna and Child is iconic.  But it was the  strong graphics of the 16th century Maiolica glazed earthenware engagement plates that caught my eye. Moorish potters from Maiolica, or Majorca, are reputed to have created these in Sicily.  They capture the image of a potential bride or announce an engagement. NOTE - the fantastic impressionist and post-impressionist collection, which I remember so well from a 1991 visit, has been moved to another part of the Winter Palace and is now in a the general staff building. We didn’t make it this trip, but it’s absolutely worth it so please do!

The empty gilded frames pictured abode are NOT pieces currently out on loan. This is from a series of digitally manipulated photographs, The Hermitage 1941-2014, by the artist Yasumasa Morsimura that can be found throughout the Winter Palace. The series was inspired by a little known episode in the life of the Hermitage. During the Great Patriotic War, aka WWII, (1941-1945) the Hermitage staff cut hundreds of  canvases from their frames, layering them between straw and hiding them away before the Nazi troops cut the city off from the rest of the country.  For decades afterwards, Hermitage staff would give tours describing in great detail the previous content of the empty frames.  This remarkable event acts as a backdrop to a highly recommended novel, Coffee and Vodka, by Finish author Helena Halme, about immigration, war and its long term affect on families. 

 

Church of Our Savior in Spilled Blood is so named because it was constructed on the spot where Tsar Alexander II, a reformer best  known for the emancipation of Russian serfs, was mortally injured by political nihilists in 1881. This Russian Orthodox Church was funded by the Imperial family and constructed between 1883 and 1907.  The church’s exterior is festooned with five gold and brightly colored sculpted onion-dome cuplolas.  The interior is a riot of gold and enamel mosaics, which are so intricate that they are indistinguishable from paintings unless one looks very closely.  In recent years, the church has reopened for limited services, although as our guide shared, that after the State’s  extended suppression, many Russians are learning the various aspects of Greek Orthodox services and faith for the first time.  

The St Peter and Paul cathedral and fortress is the city’s first and oldest landmark.   By pure coincidence, the cathedral’s names are those of the first two assassinated Russian emperors - lots of that in Imperial  Russian times! The cathedral acts as the burial vault of all but two Russian emperors. Even the country’s last tsar, Nicholas II remains were finally entombed here in 1998, after his remains disappeared upon his 1918 assassination.  The dombed cathedral’s interior is encrusted in gold  with malachite green finishes.The bell tower is the world’s tallest for a Greek Orthodox Church.  On the exterior is a cast bronze plaque memorializing residents who painted the bell tower grey, successfully disguising it from WWII bombing raids.  The  building, it’s interior and many stories, is awe inspiring.  

New Holland island was created in 1719.  (You remember the peasant and prisoner workforce?) It was named after the city that so inspired Peter the Great. It’s island location protected timber from city fires and integrated canals and locks made it perfect for shipbuilding.  In the 1820’s it became a military point and naval prison, fondly called the Bottle House.  After being closed for decades, it reopened to the public in 2016 and is dedicated to the persuit of fun! The prison is in the shape of an oval with a large interior courtyard.  The three floors maintain the original prison rooms and are a combination of coffe houses, restaurants, bars, well curated shops (we loved the retro and contemporary book store), yoga and dance studios.  Outside is a playground and grassy areas for various outdoor activities, movies, concerts and even free (clearly this is not a capitalist economy) chairs for relaxing. The island’s  local arts school and art making space has recently been invaded by magenta snails, one giving a ride to Evie. In the winter, part of the outside is flooded creating an ice rink for skating, so there’s no reason to miss out on St Petersburg’s answer to Moscow’s Gorky Park. 

Piter, as the city is know by locals, has many enticing things to do and see; from Nevsky Prospects street’s shopping to the world’s deepest most elaborate subways. The waterways throughout the city make it particularly enticing.  But come prepared.  Temperature swings and brief precipitation is the norm.  A $1,000 visa is the cost to wander at will. However private guides are a far less expensive workaround. And, frankly, if we had been with and then left the cruise group and simply taken a taxi back to the boat, no one would have been the wiser.  Russia is now wide open to travelers and “State followers” are not what they used to be. If you do make the trip, travel to both St. Petersburg and Moscow, about 300miles south  by train. The two cities could not be more different and clearly reflect the principal differences in the country’s ethos and government from the time of Peter the Great, through the Romanovs, to Lenin, Stalin, Krushev, Gorbachev and the present. 

Cruising the Baltic - Tallinn Estonia - a Fairyland

We are cruising the Baltic on the Seven Seas Explorer with Jeremy, Erin and the girls.  Ten days of cruising means about 8 stops, so brace yourself.  There could be as many blog posting in about as many days.  

And no, Blue Chip has not been replaced, but please don’t tell her. She gets jealous, but the crossing would simply have been too much for her.  We’re sharing the ship for with about 700 hearty souls. The number of passengers initially had me in a panic, but the ship size with all suite rooms, numerous common area spots and multiple restaurants gives everyone room to breathe.  There are numerous on board activities with a focus on fitness rather then crazy amusement parks  and water slides. The Kids Camp has a wide selection of day and night activities offering 8 year old Evelyn an escape from the rest of us and Clara time to have the room to herself.  The adults are having a good time too.  

Tallin, Estonia’s capital, is an absurdly photogenic walled medieval town. Although first mentioned by cartographersa in 1154, the city we officially  founded by the Danes in 1219. It is located on the shore of the Gulf of Finland and is about 380 miles east of Stockholm, 50 miles south of Helsinki and 200 miles west of St Petersburg.  It has close historical ties with all of these cities.  Their countries, as well as Germany and Poland, at one time owned Tallin. For many years it was better known by its historical German name, Reval. Each of these countries protected this valuable harbour and trade cross road location, which explains why it was preserved and is one of Europe’s  most complete Medieval walled cities and thus a UNESCO Heritage City.   

The name Tallinn means the castle town of the Danes. It is by far Estonias’s  most populous city (435,000 out of 1,325,000).  After a brief War of Independence at the end of World War I, Estonia gained its independence from a weakened Russia in 1920. During World War II it was repeatedly occupied by the Germany and the Soviet Union, from which it again gained its independence and joined the EU in 2004 as a democratic parliamentary republic with uiversal health care, education and the longest maternity leave in the OECD. It is considered one of its fastest growing EU economies and is notably internet savvy - using it for elections and e-residency.  Tallinn’s blue and white striped flag mimics Estonias and reflects the colors of its city’s Coat of Arms.  Estonia’s flag colors represent a blue for sky, a black for rich soil and white for hope.

What immediately strikes you in Tallinn’s Old Village is the wide variety of pastel tones, which make you feel warm, even on a chilly drizzling  day. Arches you pass through are often part of  the medieval wall and curved, narrow cobblestone streets remind you of the city’s origin at every turn. The large cobble stone town square is lined with places to grab a bite.

Many of the doors are incredibly colorful and graphic This green, gold and red is particularly interesting, with a dark skinned man at the top.  He represents the Brotherhood of the Blackheads. Originally founded as a military organization, overtime it became less military and evolved into an association of local, unmarried merchant shipowners and foreigners. They were active here from the 14 century until 1940. The door is worth searching out!

The whimsey of the Old Town is impossible to escape.  Definitely stop at the Kohvik Cafe - the cities oldest. Marzipan figures are incredibly detailed and lovely with a cup of cappuccino.  It’s counter top ferris wheel carefully balances cups, saucers and spoons. 

Weather vanes, looking like filigree   sculpture, punctuate decorative gables.  Many of the multi colored facades have a story.  This gentleman was added several hundred years ago by a young couple who became aware that he had been watching his across street young newlywed neighbor while she dressed. Rather than confront him, they added this decoration to remind him, and his neighbors, about his peeping habits.

Medieval  and Renaissance  singing and instruments can be heard at St Catherine’s church.

You may not  have plans to travel to Estonia in the immediate future.  But maybe you are on a Baltic cruise, as we were, or maybe Helsinki or Stockholm are in your plans? If so, definitely keep Tallinn on your list.  There are few places in Europe that are like this,  a placewhere you feel transported; that feels genuine; that doesn’t feel sleek and brash.  You’ll be glad you made the trip - even if it is just for a day, although why not stay longer?

Stockholm - Less Known, Bridal Showers & Mystery-man

 

Stockholm is on the must-visit list for anyone evenly remotely interested in visiting Scandinavia.  So why bother with a blog page about a city already known for its spire dotted harbour horizons and butter-yellow colored buildings? What is there to add? Among this city of islands there are stories worth searching out and a mystery waiting to be solved.

First - Why do the Swedish flag colors  differ from its Scandinavian relatives? The colors are found in its 1442 coat of arms and the graphic design mimics the Danish flag; Sweden’s chief rival in the 15c. The bright light blue ground represents justice, loyalty and truth while the gold cross for Christianity or generosity.  The design was first documented in 1521.

Second - Who is the bronze fellow found perpetually leaning against a wall in the cobblestone streets of Gamla Stan (Old Town)? Evert Taube (1890-1976) is a Swedish author, artist, composer and one its most respected musicians and troubadour of Swedish ballads. Take a listen to a medley of his music!

Third - Does Pippy Longstocking ever age?  AKA Pippi Långstrump hasn’t aged a day since she first appeared in 1945 as the orange pigtailed main character of countless books authored by Swedish author Astrid Lingren. Make note; mischief is reported as the secret ingredient in keeping her young.  

Fourth - Who is Alfred Nobel and why the prize?  Alfred Nobel (1833 - 1896) was a complex man. The Swedish philanthropist was also an industrialist, inventor who held 355 patents and discovered dynamite.  He surprised those attending the reading of his will, with creating an endowment which established the Nobel Prize: I intend to leave at my death a large fund for the promotion of the peace idea, but I am skeptical as to its results. Maybe he was a karmic believer?  The 5 annual prizes honor advancements in Peace,  Chemistry, Literature, Medicine and Physics.  Find the Nobel Prize Museum (Nobelmuseet) in the Old Town’s old stock exchange. The changing exhibits make this a thoughtful experience. 

Have you ever considered the origin of the Bridal Shower? In 1684 Christopher Theil opened a public bathhouse, which included the extravagance of bathing amongst flower petals and herbal essences.  Personal hygiene at the time was a bit hit or miss. Cleanliness of brides was highly prized and thus Rosenbads, rose enfused bath, followed by a party became a local tradition.  If Mr Theil could only have seen into the future! 

Where to stay?  Always a big question.  Hotel Skeppsholmen is located along the water in a 17th century building with a country chic vibe and all the modern conveniences.  It’s located on the lovely small green island of the same name and easily accessible to Old Town or downtown in 10 minutes by ferry or foot. The Moderna Museet (Modern Museum) is also located there.  It houses one of the world’s most comprehensive collection of modern art, 100,000 image of photography and outdoor sculptures, including Pablo Picasso’s 1962 sculpture Lunch in the Grass.  Note: don’t plan a Monday visit, or maybe you should? The Moderna Museet is closed, but you can still wander the island and have a coffee at the hotel while quitetly watching Stockholm’s busy waterway. 

What to do on a Monday? A number of the art museums are closed, so look for outdoor artists.  It’s always a treat.  There is also the Spiritmuseum and tasting room to explore the history of Aquavit.  The open-air museum, Skansen, was one of the first of its kind and demonstrates traditional methods of making glass, bread, even medicine and includes 150 historical buildings and zoo with a collection of popular Nordic animals.  Granddaughter Evelyn particularly likes the lynx. 

Mystery question: do you know who this man is? Your not alone. Located in the lovely atrium area of the Kungliga Slottet (aka Royal Palace) between the cafe and gift shop, he stands over 10 feet tall among several others who are apparently from the same time period. But it’s the mustache that makes him stand out - clearly not in sync with his Roman robes and herbaceous crown.  We asked and were referred to others on the palace staff but no one knew.  King Carl Gustafsson XVI was in residence, but unfortunately not available.  If you do find out, please let us know. 

Description

DescriptNobel Peace Prize is one of the five Nobel Prizes established by the will of Swedish industrialist, inventor, and armaments manufacturer Alfred Nobel, along with the prizes in Chemistry, Physics, Physiology or Medicine, and Literat