Vieux Montréal - So Close, Yet a World Apart

Montréal is a bit of an enigma. As a Western city, the first impression is deceptive familiarity.  However, its history and the confluence of a broad ethnic mix,  combined with a decidedly contemporary vibe,  creates a mix not found anywhere else. Did I mention. The primary language heard is French?  Consider these few Montréal facts:

- Second largest French-speaking city in the Western world, after Paris

- Only14% claim English as there mother tongue 

- 19% “allophones” claim neither French or English as their mother tongue, but speak both - which speaks to the city’s diversity 

- Second largest Jewish population outside of Israel (NYC is the first)

- Bagel and smoked meat are an obsession of everyone who has ever lived here

- Settled by French Christians in 1642, although first visited regularly by the French beginning in the 1500’s

- Canada's commercial capital, until 1976 when it voted to support the sovereign status of Quebec and maintain its French heritage, which resulted in a migration of businesses to Toronto (Montrealers say “Se la vie”. )

After early French contact in 1535, the first European settlement, Ville-Marie (City of Mary) was founded on Montréal Island in 1642 by 54 French men and women on what today is referred to as Vieux Montreal. The settlement was intended as a “Christian commonwealth” and flourished under the leadership of three French noblemen who hoped to create a Christian society in a land long inhabited by Iroquois Native Peoples tribes - the Hurons and Mohawks. Montreal sustained invasions by British and Scottish. They partnered with British Colonists (that’s us) in 1776 and throughout with Native American peoples. After the end of the Seven Years’ (aka, French and Indian War  ) it became a British colonial capital,  until its self-governance was finally secured  in 1867. 

The iconic Gothic revival Basilique Norte-Dame-de-Montréal (Our Lady of Montreal Basilica) reflects its commitment to the settlement’s  original  cause. Upon its completion in 1683, its  architect was so moved that he converted to Catholicism.  After a fire, the Basilica was rebuilt in 1829. Today church spires throughout the city and stain glass as an art form speak to the catholic founders enduring influence.  Mark Twain once said Montreal “is a city where you couldn’t throw a brick without breaking a church window.” Definitely take an organized tour of the Basilica and do so during an organ concert. The sound of the Casavant organ (designed and built in Canada), is one of the largest in North America and known to move listeners to tears. The stain glass design varies widely throughout, including some designed by Limoge. If nothing else, attend  Aura - an 40-minute evening music and laser light show that shows the Basilique off to great advantage and you will never figure out how then optics are done! Tickets are inexpensive, but shows regularly sell out, so purchase and pick tickets up ahead of time. Don’t bother waiting on the pre-opening lines.  The doors open 20 minutes  prior to the show, so there is time to wander through the church and, trust me, there’s not a bad seat to be had!

Vieux Montréal was once enclosed by thick stone walls. Today, cobblestone streets prevail on the Island of Montreal, located at the confluence of the St Lawrence and Ottawa rivers.  Walking along the port and seeing the area’s original stone warehouses and residences tell a visual story of how a rapidly developing fur trade and commercial success that made Montreal one of the most propserous cities in 18th century Nouvelle France, controlling virtually all of the wealth of the young Dominion of Canada.  However, you can’t also help but see how the area has evolved. Visitors and residents alike admire modern ships, ride the Grand Roue (ferris wheel), try the zip-line or rent a bicycle. Strolling down Rue Saint-Jacques and Place d’Youville provides a wide selection of anything one needs for delightful day or night activities. Volt, Naïf and John Fluevog are Canadian based shops and designers that are absolutely worth a look - and maybe space in your suitcase -  along with a bottle of maple syrup, of course! Galleries and art spaces, such as the Darling Brothers Foundry, are all right there. In need of refreshment?  Not to worry.  It’s difficult to find a bad meal.  Coffee shops abound. Try Tommy’s for breakfast or lunch. Look for Auberge St Gabriel for a bit of history with your meal; built in 1688 and the first auberge in North America to receive a liquor  license.  The Restaurant Bonaparte has exquisite French inspired and beautifully plated food in its Napoleon themed inn.  But it is Ikanos’ wood fire cuisine with delectable fish that will tempt you to return, even if Greek food isn’t your thing. Book a room at Le St Sulpice; ideally located just behind Norte Dame, this boutique hotel is all suites, some with a working fireplace or outside balcony and a truly delicious on site restaurant with incredible concierge service, all at a very reasonable rate. 

Although an entire weekend in Vieux Montréal would be a delight, you might need to walk off some of those calories. Venture outside of the old port area to the city proper. Head for the 500 acre Le Parc Du Mont-Royale (Mount Royal Park), designed in 1876 by Fredrick Law Olmsted, the father of American landscape architecture. One of Montreal’s largest green spaces, this sprawling public park atop a large hill features Beaver Lake, walking paths, picnic areas, historical sites and year round activities; from picnicking in summer, bird watching and  jogging paths to ice skating, snow shoeing or cross country skiing in the winter - all without leaving the city.  The illuminated 98-foot tall Croix sur la Montagne (Cross atop Mount Royal) was erected in 1924, largely with money raised by high school students.  Its original 249 lightbulbs have been replaced with LED lights that can be seen from up to 50 miles away.  The monument is in recognition of the original cross  installed in 1643 by one of the city’s founders to fulfill his vow to the Virgin Mary in his prayers to end a disastrous flood that threatened the early settlers.  Today the 98-foot tall Croix sur la Montagne (Cross atop Mount Royal) was erected in 1924, largely with money raised by high-school students. It stands 252 meters above the St Lawrence River, making it one of the highest points in Montreal. Next to the cross, a plaque marks the emplacement of a time capsule buried in 1992, during Montreal’s 350th birthday celebration, and scheduled to be open in 2142.  The views from Chalet du Mont-Royal over the city to Vieux Montreal, St Helene and beyond are simply magnificent. Inside the chalet are murals depicting scenes from Canadian history.  Columbus Day weekend offers a display of colorful leaves difficult to match anywhere in the northeast. A walk along Beaver Lake is both beautiful and relaxing. 

Part of what makes Montreal truly unique is it’s embracement of both diversity and history.  The 1972 referendum that established Quebec, and so Montreal determination to embrace its French heritage and legally made French its primary language. However, Montreal had a long history of welcoming other cultures and nationalities.  (Note: unlike “other French speaking” countries you may have traveled to, English is widely understood and patience prevails when language differences create a challenge.  Just saying.) At the edge of Vieux Montréal is a vibrant Chinatown.  Just beyond, as you head toward Mount Royal, is what is locally referred to as The Main. A multitude of various ethnic groups settled here, including Italians, Portugese, Greek and Eastern European Jews. Many of these communities maintain a foothold here to this day. Of particular note is the Jewish community.  Victorian homes often belong to Hasidic Jews that cluster in neighborhoods with “no cellphone signs” and shops that cater to dietary and other needs. Interspersed are other ethnic groups and trendy millennials, all proudly enjoying a rich selection of traditional foods and more modern shops.  A particular style of bagel, or biegel, is unique to Montreal.  The addition of a touch of honey and a heavy seed coating combine with a flatter bagel define the Montreal bagel. But you will need to decide if you prefer St Viateur versus Fairmount.  Come early.  The lines reach around the block.  (Join a Beyond The Bagel tour to navigate the crowds and understand the history of this community through its food. Include a stop at the Jewish Museum for the Shamta Factory tour.) Your  next big decision is which smoked meat you prefer; Schwartz’s on St Laurent Boulevard was established in 1928 and is considered the gold standard. Smoked meat is a Montréal gastronomic art; brisket is brined for up to 14 days in savory spices, then finally smoked and steamed. Of course, there is also Wilensky’s, originally a cigar store, but long known for its special grill pressed sandwiches, particularly the salami, all-beef bologna and cheese  Wilensky Special. All traditionally served hand mixed cherry cola or chocolate egg cream soda is recommended. While pondering these life defining decisions, enjoy a wide array of murals, readily found along The Main and beyond.  Montreal is a wonderful, easily manageable city of just under 2-million, with 4-million in the broader metropolitan area, making it the second largest city in Canada. (Toronto is the largest, and those that read this blog, know we visited there a few years ago.) We organized this trip for a group of long time friends we travel with every year.   If you haven’t been here recently, you should return. If it’s your first time, your only question will be why you waited so long?

Park City Utah - NOT Just for Skiing

Utah is one of those amazing states with dramatic  geographic diversity  - from lush mountains with skiing trails, rivers and deep gorges to the deserts of Monument Valley. Flying into Salt Lake City, you might wonder if you'll spot the Mormon's Temple Square, but it's the world's largest open pit mine along the panoramic Rocky Mountains that you can't fail to notice.  The Kenecott Copper Mine in Bingham Canyon can be seen from  space or, if on earth, the 9,000 foot ascent brings you to its lip.  Tours are readily available. 

A quick 45-minute drive from SLC brings you to the mountain town of Park City. In 1864 Fort Douglas soldiers found silver in the Wasatch Mountains. Prospectors arrived in droves and the population exploded! By the late 19th century millions of dollars had been excavated, but with it prices rapidly declined and Park City turned into a ghost town. Today these original structures have been restored, brightly painted and line Main Street and brighten the surrounding area.  Absolutely charming!

But 7,000 feet above sea level takes a bit of getting used to. Visiting with dear friends from Steve's McKinsey days, we're reminded to hydrate constantly, respect the sun's strength and be prepared to slow our pace in thinner air. Hmmm - someone didn't check the week's itinerary! 

Yellow metal bike racks give a hint that this is both an athleticslly and artistically oriented town. The annual juried art show  packs Main Street with tented booths and people come from miles around, so book a room early and don't expect to park near by! Every art form imaginable can be found here.  The Kaufmans have two pieces being shipped back to Boston. Come take a look.  

It's common to hear that people come here for the skiing and stay for the life style. (The population is 8,000 but swells in the winter months.)  Hiking and biking trails for every level abound.  Farm Trailhead is an easy picturesque 3-mile loop that includes this Nationally  Registered Historic Places farmstead. 

In the 1938 Joe Quinney developed the first chair lift in nearby Alta, to be followed in 1845 by the same in Park City. And so the area came back to life as a skiing destination. 

Is that Steve Kaufman there?  Or maybe that's  his Alpine cousin !

The 2002 Olympic Winter Games underscored Park City's winter activities, which have expanded well beyond skiing! The park is still incredibly active, even in summer. Anyone can come for a tour, but those in the know come on Saturday or Sunday. IF you sign a waver - you can zip line down Olympic ski trails, try out the lower luge path (at 60+ miles per hour that's all you need), use tires to glide down the Nordic ski trail or don a life jacket to slide down the least steep of the ski jump training slides.  (More on that later.)

Is rock climbing your thing? Plenty make their way up this wall, or at least try before tumbling into the water. The upper portion bends to nearly a 45-degree angle! So, YES, bathing suits are the order of the day.  The competitive pros can scramble up in less than 30 seconds and are rewarded with a drop into a cooling pool. 

 

If you're like me, you might be more of an observer. I've  always wondered how those down hill jumpers ever learn their sport.  Downhill slopes into bubbling water and landing on gigantic  "pillow tops" helps gain confidence.  The park offers courses to those that want to learn the many winter sports available here, beginning with children as young as 6!

However, an event you'll never forget is watching the Flying Aces sore down inclines, being launched into the sky to twist and turn as they practice jumps before landing in the water. 

Cluck here to see the Flying Aces perform - 10 previous and potential future Olympic participants.

After all that day time activity - and fortified with amazing food from the Deer Valley Cafe, Royal Street Cafe, Brass Tag, Le Spri and Bistro 412 to name but a few - a little music might be just the thing!

How about the Beetles performing at the Deer Valley Music Festival? Bring chairs, wine and join 5,000 others for a sold out evening of music memories.  Over 20 performers come here every year so there's something for everyone.  

We can't thank our hosts - Annie Lewis and Bob Garda enough.  Needless to say, we had a wonderful time and with these helpful hints, we know you will too. So your not a skier? That's no reason to not go to Park City. Have fun!

Napa Without Wine

Impossible! What would be the point?

Well there are those, believe it or not, who don't live for the new harvest and this year's wine rating. And, if your reading this, then you already know that includes Mr. Steve. Still, it's a beautiful corner of the world and we had the opportunity in late August to share it with a group of McKinsey friends. So we decided to investigate beyond the vineyards.  

First - get a convertible. You might have done that anyway - but taking the scenic route and spotting small signs is going to be key. 

Then the adventure is yours. We say go the gamut - from weird to wonderful. 

Confess - you didn't know that the workd's largest petrified forest was right here in Napa. Coastal redwoods fell like matchsticks in the direction of the lava flow from Mt St Helen a mere 7 miles away. Over several million years, water seeped through dust and ash. Cell by cell wood is transformed into solid silica, quartz and stone. Voila - petrified wood!

   

First discovered in 1870 by Charles "Petrified" Evans, the forest was visited by many. Robert Lewis Stevenson was among the frequent guests and has a tree named after him, which he wrote about in "Silverado Squatters."  Note the red trunked Manzanita trees - not petrified, but a colorful bonus. 

Next - the Old Faithful Geyser of California is a mystery of nature, which captivates the imagination AND has been written about in National Geographic. 

However, it only erupts about every 30 minutes, so bring a book and relax in the outdoor covered area. You might also investigate the "steam well." Built in the 1930's, it's 150 degree vapors boil eggs and can cook a pig. (Hey, that's what the sign says!)

The culinary delights and wonderful vistas are endless. We suggest the Culinary Institure of America, for the cooking store alone. Auberge's cliffside, outdoor deck's view is a perfect place for a midday break. Long Meadow Farmstand represents the Napa you dreamt of - and is owned, ongvwith the Ranch, by old friends. 

Bouchon Bakery is  the perfect stop to provision for your drive back to San Fran. You'll delight in whatever you find and be fortified while making notes about where you're going to stop next time your in the wine country. 

Frisco Colorado - how high are we?

It's that time of year. Summer is coming to a rapid end and the school semester is beginning. What perfect timing over Labor Day weekend  to get a quick preview of the autumnal weather to come. 

Frisco is home to one of the six McKinsey couples we see every year. After getting accustomed to being 9,000 feet above sea level, we tried Breckinridge, with it's double chairlifts to bring us 12,000 feet up for amazing dining. An afternoon in Vale was a delight. Bicycles, lots of folks with dogs, Oakley sunglasses,  and shorts with polar fleece tops was the rule at the farmers market. There were also lots of folks on crutches healing up before the next season. (There is a reason these two boaters opt for flat water instead of flying down the slopes.)

We had a terrific time. We got some tips from the Frisbee Golf tournament folks, visited the Breck art fair, spent an afternoon on ATV's and managed to pick up some terrific new outerwear. (This area KNOWS outdoor gear in a way two city slickers never will.) Fly fishing could be found wherever there was a stream worth standing in. And the scenery? There aren't words. Thanks Gordon and Mary!

Lowcountry Visit

Each year one member from a small group of Steve's McKinsey buds takes their turn to host a Columbus Day weekend trip. Besides the pleasure of relaxing with old friends, it provides an opportunity for a wide variety of experiences.

This year Kiawah Island and nearby Charleston did not disappoint! Traveling through this low-country natural paradise is always one of our favorite legs when bringing Blue Chip north, but we rarely have the chance to stop and explore land-side.

Kiawah is a known for its golf, but it's natural beauty, extravagant bird life, colorful marshland and ten miles of sandy beach packed hard enough to bike ride on, makes it truly special. Dolphins work together to "strand feed", forcing fish onto the shore, where the dolphins follow, wrestling mullet from aggressive pelican's. Observing this unique behavior is just one more reason to explore the Kiawah River via flatsboat or kayak.

And then there is Charleston. Always a pleasure to explore. Horse and buggies keep the traffic moving slow as you pass from one well preserved historic district to another. You endlessly hear tales of people who stopped for a visit and simply never left. Fantastic culture, beautiful design, great restaurants, southern hospitality, 30 miles to Kiawah - who knows?