We are cruising the Baltic on the Seven Seas Explorer with Jeremy, Erin and the girls. Ten days of cruising means about 8 stops, so brace yourself. There could be as many blog posting in about as many days.
And no, Blue Chip has not been replaced, but please don’t tell her. She gets jealous, but the crossing would simply have been too much for her. We’re sharing the ship for with about 700 hearty souls. The number of passengers initially had me in a panic, but the ship size with all suite rooms, numerous common area spots and multiple restaurants gives everyone room to breathe. There are numerous on board activities with a focus on fitness rather then crazy amusement parks and water slides. The Kids Camp has a wide selection of day and night activities offering 8 year old Evelyn an escape from the rest of us and Clara time to have the room to herself. The adults are having a good time too.
Tallin, Estonia’s capital, is an absurdly photogenic walled medieval town. Although first mentioned by cartographersa in 1154, the city we officially founded by the Danes in 1219. It is located on the shore of the Gulf of Finland and is about 380 miles east of Stockholm, 50 miles south of Helsinki and 200 miles west of St Petersburg. It has close historical ties with all of these cities. Their countries, as well as Germany and Poland, at one time owned Tallin. For many years it was better known by its historical German name, Reval. Each of these countries protected this valuable harbour and trade cross road location, which explains why it was preserved and is one of Europe’s most complete Medieval walled cities and thus a UNESCO Heritage City.
The name Tallinn means the castle town of the Danes. It is by far Estonias’s most populous city (435,000 out of 1,325,000). After a brief War of Independence at the end of World War I, Estonia gained its independence from a weakened Russia in 1920. During World War II it was repeatedly occupied by the Germany and the Soviet Union, from which it again gained its independence and joined the EU in 2004 as a democratic parliamentary republic with uiversal health care, education and the longest maternity leave in the OECD. It is considered one of its fastest growing EU economies and is notably internet savvy - using it for elections and e-residency. Tallinn’s blue and white striped flag mimics Estonias and reflects the colors of its city’s Coat of Arms. Estonia’s flag colors represent a blue for sky, a black for rich soil and white for hope.
What immediately strikes you in Tallinn’s Old Village is the wide variety of pastel tones, which make you feel warm, even on a chilly drizzling day. Arches you pass through are often part of the medieval wall and curved, narrow cobblestone streets remind you of the city’s origin at every turn. The large cobble stone town square is lined with places to grab a bite.
Many of the doors are incredibly colorful and graphic This green, gold and red is particularly interesting, with a dark skinned man at the top. He represents the Brotherhood of the Blackheads. Originally founded as a military organization, overtime it became less military and evolved into an association of local, unmarried merchant shipowners and foreigners. They were active here from the 14 century until 1940. The door is worth searching out!
The whimsey of the Old Town is impossible to escape. Definitely stop at the Kohvik Cafe - the cities oldest. Marzipan figures are incredibly detailed and lovely with a cup of cappuccino. It’s counter top ferris wheel carefully balances cups, saucers and spoons.
Weather vanes, looking like filigree sculpture, punctuate decorative gables. Many of the multi colored facades have a story. This gentleman was added several hundred years ago by a young couple who became aware that he had been watching his across street young newlywed neighbor while she dressed. Rather than confront him, they added this decoration to remind him, and his neighbors, about his peeping habits.
Medieval and Renaissance singing and instruments can be heard at St Catherine’s church.
You may not have plans to travel to Estonia in the immediate future. But maybe you are on a Baltic cruise, as we were, or maybe Helsinki or Stockholm are in your plans? If so, definitely keep Tallinn on your list. There are few places in Europe that are like this, a placewhere you feel transported; that feels genuine; that doesn’t feel sleek and brash. You’ll be glad you made the trip - even if it is just for a day, although why not stay longer?
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