Sure Signs that the Year is Waning - In Spite of the Weather

Summer’s end and Autumn’s arrival in years past used to be such a specific period of time. For one thing, it actually slowly but consistently got chillier and chillier until the one traded in tee shirts and sandals for sweaters and boots.  The chill in the air complimented the crunch of fallen leaves, the sound of leaves being raked and a smell that was unique to the season. Not so much these days.  More often than not, you might still seriously being considered wearing shorts on Columbus Day even though you live in Boston! Instead, now we look more to events that remind us that it is THAT time of year. You know - school begins and we prepare for the the Autumn and Winter holidays leading to the inevitable end of another year.  Well, here are 4 other ways, you’ll certainly know that the Summer to Autumn transition is under way.  

1 - MAINE - For the Kaufman’s summer’s winding down means escaping to Maine on Blue Chip - pictured in the upper right photo. Boating through mountains, waiting for light to break through fog and anchoring out (aka “swinging on the hook”) to indulge in some of the most amazing sunsets you’ll ever experience in this lifetime. Lobsters were available in abundance this year - unusually tender and sweet.  And then there were maverick crustaceans swinging on barber shop poles! One note - Booth Bay Harbour has sadly succumbed to tee shirts and fudge shops, so if your in the area, give Rockland or Camden a try. Further east you’ll find Little Cranberry Island, which is pure heaven for wandering and a meal at The Islesford Dock. If you stop in Portland, seek out Ramblers Way. Tom Chappell, of Tom’s of Maine fame, has established a clothing line of beautifully designed, very light weight, fashionable, packable washable wool. Not finding in the US, the high quality wool needed, he also bought a sheep farm in southwest Maine to breed Rambouillet. Stop by the store.  The tall man with thick white hair, his wife Kate or one of his daughters will likely be there.  Delightful - both the family and the clothing. 

2- JARCZYNSKI  POST LABOR DAY WEEKEND ON LBI - For years the Jarczynski cousins have gathered on Long Beach Island the weekend AFTER Labor Day.  Sure, decades ago Karen’s annual extended family met the Saturday after Christmas, and you had better have been there or risk hearing about it for the rest of your days! But the numbers have swelled with four generations including cousins, their children and now grandchildren (the term “cousin” is used VERY loosely in the Jarczynski clan) so that a beach weekend lets us all really spread out. I’m not truly sure how many people actually make up the Jarczynski clan. But I can tell you that if you live in the US and the name Jarczynski is in your family tree, there’s about an 80% chance we’re related. Get in touch and make your way to LBI. There’s always room for one more! 

 Do you know about LBI? It is an 18 mile long barrier island that is a half-mile at its widest point; located 24 miles north of Atlantic City and 101 miles south of NYC. The island has been continuously settled since 1690. In the early years it was known for hunting, whaling and shipping.  Tourism became increasingly important as early as the early as the 1800’s and a bridge was built across Barnegat Bay. A shark attack in Beach Haven unfortunately killed a student in 1916, inspiring the book and movie Jaws.  (Yes, the movie that kept you out of the water for an entire summer when it came out in 1975). Today fishing and tourism are both the Island’s mainstays.  You will find all of the charm you could want, without all the fuss - a fact of pride for those that call LBI home - and for those of us that look forward to a visit.  Try the cash only Hudson House in Beach Haven. It has been here, well, since forever. The proprietors don’t waste money on paint for this dive bar, yet it has LOTS of atmosphere - perfect if you like a juke box, darts, pool and shuffleboard. Dress code is everything from sequins to cutoffs, evidence that everyone is welcome here! 

3- RED SOX - CLOSING HOME GAME - Baseball at Fenway is truly one of the things that define the city.  Okay, so you may have heard that after winning the World Series last year, we didn’t make it quite that far this year.  However - you would have never known it by the continued sold out stadium throughout the 2019 season. (Bostonians puzzle when they watch baseball on  TV and see half empty stadiums.) Last home game of the season is all hands on deck for the Sox faithful, no matter how young or old. Standing to sing Sweet Caroline at the top of our lungs during the middle of the eight inning is only made sweeter when the boys win with a walk off home run!  See you at Fenway next year!

4- PUMPKINS AND GOURDS OF ALL KINDS - If all else fails, look to see what’s gracing people’s steps, lawns and tables in Boston.  This year, the drama of white and black pumpkins are creating dynamic statements in Boston’s Back Bay.  Then there’s the Glass Pumpkin Patch at MIT, created to raise funds to support MIT’s Glass Lab.  This year, these brightly striped gourds by Olivia Cheo truly stood out.  Missed the glass pumpkins, try the farmers market at Copley Square for a little Autumn inspiration!  

Certainly any of the above heralds the end of Summer and the beginning of Autumn, even if we haven’t quite put our tee shirts away.  We’re gearing up for the beginning of a new year,  which is coming much to quickly.   More soon!

The Islands and a Return to Boston

Sag Harbor, located north of  East Hampton, has long been one of Karen's two favorite south shore locations. Sag Harbor was a thriving village during the days of  the Crown prior to 1776. Briefly a port of entry for the state of New York, the James Howell Inn stood at the  site of today's American Hotel.  Dating  from 1846, it was a welcome reprieve during the whaling industry boom. Today there are 8 well appointed double rooms with Frette sheets and a delightful sitting and dining room where you can share one of its 17,000 bottles of wine. The outdoor porch is the perfect Main Steet view.   

Sag Harbor is located north of East Hampton on Gardiners Bay, is a bit off the beaten path and long been a low key location. Historical buildings, superb hardware, home furnishing, mid century furniture, a five-and-dime store; this feels like a true village, albeit well curated.

Their is a public marina that abuts one of the town's two private marinas that are on both sides of the town's well known Long Whatf built in 1780.. A windmill is located at its base as well as a wonderful ice cream store. The small marina office belies its resident ships which covers the gamut from small 20 foot run-abouts to those sporting toys and alternate means of transport - note the Mini Cooper.  There is a local laundromat, bagel store, IGA and organic grocery stores for provisioning.  A number of excellent restaurants can be found within easy walking distance.  Dopo, Lulu, Muse and Page are favorites. Bay Street Theatre, numerous music, film and an excellent book store all speak to the villages cuktural focus. Sag has been discovered so find your way here quickly! 

Go just a few miles north through North Haven and the Shelter Island ferry will take you partly across Gardiner Bay, closer to Long Island's north fork. Locals have rejected suggestions for a causeway, preferring the ferry that can take as many as four cars, a few bicycles and a handful of walk ons. The cedar shingle homes are passed down from generation to generation.  There are only a handful of Inns.  Try coming out of season with a heavy sweater for a magical experience. 

Less than 15 miles away from both Montauk Long Island and Rhode Island, is the ever charming Block Island, named after the Dutch explorer Adriaen Block. 40% of the island's 10-square miles is conservation land. A little over 1,000 people live on the remaining acerage.  Take a one hour ferry from Montauk Long Island, New London CT or Newport RI. If you reserve a spot on Blue Chip, we will be grabbing a mooring or anchoring in its incredibly protected harbor.  But captain Steve might tell you it's the delivery of fresh baked goods each morning that is the harbor'  best attribute. 

Block Island to Menemsha on Martha's Vineyard southwest coast is a mere 25 nautical miles.  MV has several towns, each with their own distinct persona.  Menemsha is a working harbor and perfect if you looking for a low key escape. 

Blue Chip stands out at this modest marina. A long sandy beach is worth a stroll and the sunsets can be spectacular. 

Wander the surrounding village for fresh seafood. A small ferry takes you across the harbor for secluded bike riding.  

Artists from the early 1900's would find Menemsha not much changed.  

Current artists continue to find inspiration here.  So take the ferry from Woods Hole or New Bedford, MA. But when you arrive at Vineyard Haven make your way west and explore the farming and fishing on the island's west coast. 

Onset is located at Buzzards Bay. This large protected harbor is located just to the west of the Cape Cod Canal. Guess this means it's time to head home, but look at that sunset! Maybe we should give Boston a second thought.  

The 7 mile long Cape Cod Canal was completed in 1914 as part of the Atlantic Intercoastal Waterway to cut through Cape Cod by joining  Bourne, the location of the Massachusetts Maritime Academy, with Scusset Massachusetts.  Bourne and Sagamore bridges allow boat clearance of 135 feet. A parallel bike path provides wonderful views as boats make there way through cruising at a maximum of 10 mikes per hour.  

Situate provides one last night of anchoring out - aka "swinging on the hook" - before facing life on land and a new school year.  Besides beautiful light, a harbor launch runs until 11, if you care for a bite at the local yacht club.  Hmmm, maybe we should consider just one more night! 

Ah, but here we are, home at Boston's Constitution Marina.  She is still as comfortable as when she arrived 14 years ago. It's been a good year of cruising. Please do let us know if you'd like to join us next year. You never know where you might end up.  

(Backup) Boston to New London

As we leave Boston harbor, this image foreshadows the next few days of boating - historical sites,  a bit overcast but generally friendly seas. 

Our first stop is Mattapoisett, that dark red spot near the elbow leading to Cape Cod. The Cape Cod Canal provides a convenient cut that allows us to take a shortcut here along the southern part of the map's pink shape without going all the way up and around Provincetown, the Cape's most northern reach. 

This area of Buzzards Bay is truly laid back. Homes here are generally small and no one is out to impress.  

Marion is located ever so slightly north. Although established in 1679 as Sippican, disagreements with neighboring villages led to the town being re-established in 1852 and then named after Revolutionary War hero Francis Marion. Since then, the economy relied on the waters  of Buzzard Bay for fishing, summertime tourism and ever popular sailing. 

The Little Red Library take a book-leave a book philosophy and the First Congregational "Be the Church" sign, pretty  much says it all.  Marion has a tiny charming town with a small local market, three or four stores and probably all you would have really needed in the mid-1800's. The local population of just under 5,000 thinks that suits just fine.  

On our way into Rhode Island Sound, high on White Hill bluff, is the iconic Ocean House. Famous for its yellow facade and stunning views, it opened just after the Civil War in 1868 and was the last of the Victorian Era waterfront hotels on mainland  Rhode Island. It's recent high budget renovations and Relais and Chatteau status will likely guarantee its stately presence for generations to come.  Sandwiched between Boston, New York City and Newport, there is easy access by car, boat or, if you choose, helicopter. I'm just saying....

Next port of call is Jamestown Village on Conanicut Island. (And no that's not a spelling error.) Founded in 1636 as a trading post by the Dutch West Indian Company to trade with the Narragansett Indians, beaver pelts and castorium - perfume musk oil from the renal glands of MIT's mascot (you REALLY don't want to know more than that) - made it an important destination for ships entering Narragansett Bay. In 1678 the village was incorporated and named for King James II.

Today it has a population of just over 5,000 and is the 441st wealthiest city in the USA. (Those miles of beautiful coastline come at a cost.) The long delicate canteleavered Jamestown Verrazano bridge spans Narragansett Bay, joining Rhode Island's North Kingston to Jamestown and Newport. However, unlike its east and west neighbors, Jamestown Village's seaside location is lost in time, with cedar shingled and brightly painted clapboard homes, farmers market, an excellent wine store, gourmet shop, a few restaurants, local museum, library and excellent wine store right in the center of town.  What more could you need?

As we continue along the western shores of Naragansett Bay on our way to Wickford, we are greeted by the Polar Point Light. The wooden lighthouse was originally built in 1831 and is the oldest wooden lighthouse in the United States.  It has recently been incorporated into a private home, which will likely ensure its continuation. 

Wickford Village was established as a trading post in 1637 and surrounds one of the most well protected harbors on the eastern seaboard, which explains the inordinate number of boatyards, moorings and anchorages that line the harbor and its entrance.  Wickford has several claims to fame.  

 * It abuts the Quonset Point Air National Guard Station, where Richard Nixon did his basic training in 1942.  

 * The village has the largest collection of historic 18c homes, still on their original foundations, in the northeast. Greek Revival, Late Victorian and Federal styles speak to the village's early importance. 

* The annual Wickford Art Festival is one of the most prominent on the eastern seaboard, attracting 100's of worldwide artists and thousands of patrons. 

* The fiber arts have a startling presence here with spinning wheels at the harbor and willage weavers, yarns and fabric stores.

* There is only ONE ice cream store AND it's is CLOSED on Monday! (You can't even begin to imagine the dismay this caused our captain! Or maybe you can?)

Bristol has an extremely long history.  The area's Wappanoagas Indians predated and then worked as guides for the Pilgrims. Four early Colonists purchased Mt Hope and Poppasquash Necks as part of the Plymouth Colony, which included the area eventually called Bristol and part of Massachusetts until the Crown transferred it to RI in 1747.  Interestingly Bristol boasts the oldest continuous celebration of Independence Day, which began in 1777.  

This deep water port has a long seaworthy history.  

Superb boat building is so storied here that buying a used boat "in Bristol condition" infers that it is in  impeccable shape. Bristol based Herreshoff boat company built five consecutive American Cup Defender winners between 1893 and 1920. They, Hunt and Hinkley all have boatyards here.  An active commercial boat presence endures today and speaks to its enduring importance.  

New London is located on the far southeast Connecticut coast.  For several decades, beginning in the 19th century, it was one of the three busiest whaling ports in the US and furnished much of the capital to fund the city's architecture.  Various manufactures came and have since moved on.  Today New London is popularly known as a ferry departure point for Block Island, RI, Fisher Island NY (Don't tell CT!)  and Orient Point, NY. Amtrak also stops here, just a short mile from the ferry port. 

This is such a very small handful of what this area has to offer. Make  your way south - or north, as the case might be and explore the many delightful towns of the Cape, Rhode Island and Connecticut coasts. Treat yourself and include the ferry as an alternate when making your way by car or foot from NYC to Boston or the Islands.  Reservations in summer are a must!

Next time your thinking of coastal exploration, give this area a try - history, art, architecture, food - charming any time of year. 

Abacos Islands - TAKE 2!

Seems version 1 went out without any content - So here goes take 2!

The Abacos is a boaters paradise. Located the furthest north in the Bahamas, this 120-mile jewelled necklace of both inhabited and uninhabited islands and cays offers countless mooring spots and a myriad of diversions. 

 

Most people associate the Abacos with Hope Town's iconic Elbow Reef Lighthouse, which is one of only two non-automated lighthouses in the Bahamas.   Built in 1864, this charming lighthouse sits 120 feet above sea level. It's 32,000 candlepower light provides visibility of 17 miles. Climb it's 101 steps for an amazing view - just bring water!

 

For you wooden boat lovers, there's another reason to visit this candy cane striped lighthouse. Come view Scully,  the last 14-foot wooden Abaco dinghy to be built by famed Winer Malone in 2010. These wooden dinghies were the traditional workboat used by Abaconians for fishing, conching, freight, transport and "courting" between islands.  In favorable winds, a sail was used. Alternately, a 10-foot sculling oar was placed in a transom notch. For those who need to know more, look up the Wooden Boat cover story from March-April 1997. These dinghies are still used by locals throughout the Abacos. 

 

There are so many places to stop and explore. These three are all on various cays within a 20 minute boat ride of Little Harbour.  If a sand beach is on your list, be certain to ask before making the trip. Many beaches are coral - and therefore not walkable - or are only accessible at low tide.  Nippers on Guana Cay is a winner - but you will have to walk through the poolside all-music-all-the-time outdoor restaurant. (There's a smaller indoor restaurant if you need some AC & sanity!)

 

We spent a wonderful afternoon with our new found friends the Wells walking and snorkeling. Nine year old Jonathan, number 9 of 9, wanted to see if we could bury him, which Karen proceeded to do. 

 

Steve had a heck of a time pulling him out. Must be time to get back to the gym!

 

Finally we ended up at Man O War Cay. Founded in 1780 by Loyalists who left the Carolinas, the  island's 400 residents are still a close knit group, in fact 70% of the Alburys (easily the island's MOST commmon name) can trace their ancestry to the 1st Alburys who settled here in 1816.  (VERY CLOSE - I'm just saying.) Albury boats are known throughout the Abacos as the most sturdy and well riding means of transport. 

The island is a mere 2-1/2 miles long and about 100 meters wide, with wonderful sandy beaches and a long protective Harbour that will protect you in any wind. There's also an amazing grocery store which will gladly order most anything you could need with 48-hour notice. (Boaters  - you know how diffucult it is to provision in the Bahamas!)

We love the food at the Dock and Dine. The Albury Canvas Shop is famous for its bags. Joe Albury sells his coveted handcrafted items. Andy Albury, of Albury Designs, creates half hulls on spec, as did his daddy, along with wonderful solid furniture.  Other shops offer food and well crafted items from M-O-W-ers,  as well as other Bahamians. 

With ferry transport, homes to rent and a fantastic harbor, M-O-W should be on everyone's list. But bring your own liquor.  This proudly conservative, god fearing island does not sell liquor. Although a glass of wine or beer can be bought with a meal, you'll be so relaxed, you won't miss it - promise! 

Abaco Bahamas - So Many Islands!

Across Devil's Backbone to Harbour Island

 

After a couple of peaceful days anchoring in the Berry Islands, we're off to Eleuthera.

 

 Like most anticipating this tricky crossing, we stop at Spanish Wells to pick up a guide to assist us in navigating the Devil's Backbone coral heads between the Berry and Eleuthera islands. The guide ties his much smaller boat onto your stern, takes over as captain and he speeds away maneuvering the unmarked coral. One false turn and you better be ready to swim. There's no Tow Boat US or coastguard here. We've relied  on Bandit to guide us since our first crossing in 2006 - AND......

 

 

to supply us with Stone Crab claws -  deliciously sweet, larger than you'll ever see and as fresh as they come. When we're really lucky, "Mrs Bandit" sends along coconut bread. 

 

 Spanish Wells itself is worth a stop. It's first settlers were of Scottish descent, unexpectedly landing here when shipwrecked crossing the Devil's Backbone on their way from the Bahamas to Eleuthera in 1647. (They should have called Bandit!) They were followed in the mid-1700s by British Loyalists escaping America. (Yup - you read that right.) 

Today Spanish Wells is the primary settlement on St George's Cay with a population just under 2,000. They remain primarily of British descent, Caucasian with a very specific accent and dialect, all of which makes the island and its inhabitants unique within the Bahamas. The majority of its youth leave the island for a college education with over 95% returning to live here. Commercial fishing, lobster and stone crabs are their primary industries. The settlement was dry until about 5 years ago, when they opened up to tourism.  So we suggest you skip the Stone Crabs on South Beach and put Spanish Wells on your list. You can always fly to Eleuthera and ask Bandit to bring you across - who knows, maybe he'll offer you Stone Crabs and coconut bread!

 

Great Harbour Cay

 

The northern reaches of the Berry Islands are a delight. Very few of the islands are developed. Great Harbour Cay is one of the larger islands, with a perfect marina  - excellent in a storm, has everything you need, but not so sophisticated that you forget your in the Bahamas.  

 

Three times a month, the mail boat arrives from Nassau. Pallets move all matter of provisions to a variety of transport, as cars and vans crowd the pier awaiting their turn.  The local "all age" school boasts coat of arms, pictured here. Everyone is feeling festive!

 

We pedal over to the islands east side to the Beach Club restaurant.  Positioned along a beautifully arching ribbon of white sand and 80-degree turquoise water, it's well worth the effort. The fish is fresh, the freshly made plump burgers delicious and the Art Shack boasts local artisans creations.  Patrons drive, pedal, jet ski and wade in from anchored boats. Open for breakfast and lunch, life is truly a beach here.  

 

Our other find was Carriearl Boutique Hotel and Restaurant. Angie and her husband came here from the U.K. before the economic crash and then decided to stay on. The surroundings, company and food was so superbly spot on, we came back for a second evening. 

Great Harbour can be the perfect spot for those who want beautiful surroundings, a few modern conveniences and a true Bahamian experience.  We'll be back, so just let us know.   

We are on the Water!

 

May 7, we departed Useppa on Blue Chip, which will essentially be "home" for the next six weeks.  

 

First stop is Little Shark River, part of the Everglades 10,000 Islands National Park. The wildlife and birds are incredible here.  Needless to say, you are miles from man-made light, there's no internet and hope that your GPS is working or you could find yourself amongst these mangrove islands indefinitely! 

 

 

Birds on stakes mark the way as we cruise from west to east through the northern Keys shallow waters near Islemorada. 

Next stop Miami and on to the Bahamas. 

The Intercoastal - 2 Weeks at Sea

For the  last two weeks, with kind waters and weather, we've gradually been making our way from St. Augustine to the Chesapeake with Blue Chip. One thing that makes these annual pilgrimages memorable is observing various communities along the way and the technology that makes this water journey possible. 

The Intercostal Waterway (ICW) is a mix of rivers and manmade canals that originally allowed shipping from Florida up through Virginia. Pleasure boats now often use it more than industry, but regardless, water locks, bascule and swing bridges permit boats of various sizes to make their way along the ICW, without having to negotiate the more unpredictable ocean waters. 

A water lock is an enclosed, rectangular chamber with gates at each end, within which water is raised or lowered to allow boats of all sizes to overcome water level differences. Locks are most often used by boats on canals, but can be found along rivers as well.  

Locks first appeared in Ancient Greece 14,000 years ago. In more modern Europe, they first appeared in Belgium in 1180, the Nethrlands in 1373 and the US in the 1820's to connect the Great Lakes. 

The lock starts out gated at the far end. Boats pull into the open end of rectangular and tie up by looping lines around metal kleats, allowing enough give to rise or drop several inches to more than 20 feet. Once the gate close, water is gently allowed in or out to bring your boat level with water on the other side. 

Once this achieved, previously closed gate opens and off you go, always thanking the "lock keeper," who operates the entire  process. The process then repeats in reverse, adjusting the height from the other side for the next group of boats. 

Clearance for bridges is the other ICW challenge. Because we can lower our antennas, our clearance requirement can drop from 22 to 16 feet. But if the tide is high or the bridge low, as is almost always the case with a railroad bridge, technology and a bridge keeper is required. 

Bridges either open on a schedule or "on demand" where you call the bridge keeper from your boat radio. It's always spectacular to see a huge piece of metal either suddenly swing 90 degrees horizontally or vertically to open and let you pass through. 

Although far from new technology, it's always a bit of a thrill to make your way through with a small regatta of other boats also making the ICW pilgrimage. 

Stopping at small towns, sampling the local fare, anchoring out at night and passing all manor of ships is all part of the ICW adventure.