Montréal is a bit of an enigma. As a Western city, the first impression is deceptive familiarity. However, its history and the confluence of a broad ethnic mix, combined with a decidedly contemporary vibe, creates a mix not found anywhere else. Did I mention. The primary language heard is French? Consider these few Montréal facts:
- Second largest French-speaking city in the Western world, after Paris
- Only14% claim English as there mother tongue
- 19% “allophones” claim neither French or English as their mother tongue, but speak both - which speaks to the city’s diversity
- Second largest Jewish population outside of Israel (NYC is the first)
- Bagel and smoked meat are an obsession of everyone who has ever lived here
- Settled by French Christians in 1642, although first visited regularly by the French beginning in the 1500’s
- Canada's commercial capital, until 1976 when it voted to support the sovereign status of Quebec and maintain its French heritage, which resulted in a migration of businesses to Toronto (Montrealers say “Se la vie”. )
After early French contact in 1535, the first European settlement, Ville-Marie (City of Mary) was founded on Montréal Island in 1642 by 54 French men and women on what today is referred to as Vieux Montreal. The settlement was intended as a “Christian commonwealth” and flourished under the leadership of three French noblemen who hoped to create a Christian society in a land long inhabited by Iroquois Native Peoples tribes - the Hurons and Mohawks. Montreal sustained invasions by British and Scottish. They partnered with British Colonists (that’s us) in 1776 and throughout with Native American peoples. After the end of the Seven Years’ (aka, French and Indian War ) it became a British colonial capital, until its self-governance was finally secured in 1867.
The iconic Gothic revival Basilique Norte-Dame-de-Montréal (Our Lady of Montreal Basilica) reflects its commitment to the settlement’s original cause. Upon its completion in 1683, its architect was so moved that he converted to Catholicism. After a fire, the Basilica was rebuilt in 1829. Today church spires throughout the city and stain glass as an art form speak to the catholic founders enduring influence. Mark Twain once said Montreal “is a city where you couldn’t throw a brick without breaking a church window.” Definitely take an organized tour of the Basilica and do so during an organ concert. The sound of the Casavant organ (designed and built in Canada), is one of the largest in North America and known to move listeners to tears. The stain glass design varies widely throughout, including some designed by Limoge. If nothing else, attend Aura - an 40-minute evening music and laser light show that shows the Basilique off to great advantage and you will never figure out how then optics are done! Tickets are inexpensive, but shows regularly sell out, so purchase and pick tickets up ahead of time. Don’t bother waiting on the pre-opening lines. The doors open 20 minutes prior to the show, so there is time to wander through the church and, trust me, there’s not a bad seat to be had!
Vieux Montréal was once enclosed by thick stone walls. Today, cobblestone streets prevail on the Island of Montreal, located at the confluence of the St Lawrence and Ottawa rivers. Walking along the port and seeing the area’s original stone warehouses and residences tell a visual story of how a rapidly developing fur trade and commercial success that made Montreal one of the most propserous cities in 18th century Nouvelle France, controlling virtually all of the wealth of the young Dominion of Canada. However, you can’t also help but see how the area has evolved. Visitors and residents alike admire modern ships, ride the Grand Roue (ferris wheel), try the zip-line or rent a bicycle. Strolling down Rue Saint-Jacques and Place d’Youville provides a wide selection of anything one needs for delightful day or night activities. Volt, Naïf and John Fluevog are Canadian based shops and designers that are absolutely worth a look - and maybe space in your suitcase - along with a bottle of maple syrup, of course! Galleries and art spaces, such as the Darling Brothers Foundry, are all right there. In need of refreshment? Not to worry. It’s difficult to find a bad meal. Coffee shops abound. Try Tommy’s for breakfast or lunch. Look for Auberge St Gabriel for a bit of history with your meal; built in 1688 and the first auberge in North America to receive a liquor license. The Restaurant Bonaparte has exquisite French inspired and beautifully plated food in its Napoleon themed inn. But it is Ikanos’ wood fire cuisine with delectable fish that will tempt you to return, even if Greek food isn’t your thing. Book a room at Le St Sulpice; ideally located just behind Norte Dame, this boutique hotel is all suites, some with a working fireplace or outside balcony and a truly delicious on site restaurant with incredible concierge service, all at a very reasonable rate.
Although an entire weekend in Vieux Montréal would be a delight, you might need to walk off some of those calories. Venture outside of the old port area to the city proper. Head for the 500 acre Le Parc Du Mont-Royale (Mount Royal Park), designed in 1876 by Fredrick Law Olmsted, the father of American landscape architecture. One of Montreal’s largest green spaces, this sprawling public park atop a large hill features Beaver Lake, walking paths, picnic areas, historical sites and year round activities; from picnicking in summer, bird watching and jogging paths to ice skating, snow shoeing or cross country skiing in the winter - all without leaving the city. The illuminated 98-foot tall Croix sur la Montagne (Cross atop Mount Royal) was erected in 1924, largely with money raised by high school students. Its original 249 lightbulbs have been replaced with LED lights that can be seen from up to 50 miles away. The monument is in recognition of the original cross installed in 1643 by one of the city’s founders to fulfill his vow to the Virgin Mary in his prayers to end a disastrous flood that threatened the early settlers. Today the 98-foot tall Croix sur la Montagne (Cross atop Mount Royal) was erected in 1924, largely with money raised by high-school students. It stands 252 meters above the St Lawrence River, making it one of the highest points in Montreal. Next to the cross, a plaque marks the emplacement of a time capsule buried in 1992, during Montreal’s 350th birthday celebration, and scheduled to be open in 2142. The views from Chalet du Mont-Royal over the city to Vieux Montreal, St Helene and beyond are simply magnificent. Inside the chalet are murals depicting scenes from Canadian history. Columbus Day weekend offers a display of colorful leaves difficult to match anywhere in the northeast. A walk along Beaver Lake is both beautiful and relaxing.
Part of what makes Montreal truly unique is it’s embracement of both diversity and history. The 1972 referendum that established Quebec, and so Montreal determination to embrace its French heritage and legally made French its primary language. However, Montreal had a long history of welcoming other cultures and nationalities. (Note: unlike “other French speaking” countries you may have traveled to, English is widely understood and patience prevails when language differences create a challenge. Just saying.) At the edge of Vieux Montréal is a vibrant Chinatown. Just beyond, as you head toward Mount Royal, is what is locally referred to as The Main. A multitude of various ethnic groups settled here, including Italians, Portugese, Greek and Eastern European Jews. Many of these communities maintain a foothold here to this day. Of particular note is the Jewish community. Victorian homes often belong to Hasidic Jews that cluster in neighborhoods with “no cellphone signs” and shops that cater to dietary and other needs. Interspersed are other ethnic groups and trendy millennials, all proudly enjoying a rich selection of traditional foods and more modern shops. A particular style of bagel, or biegel, is unique to Montreal. The addition of a touch of honey and a heavy seed coating combine with a flatter bagel define the Montreal bagel. But you will need to decide if you prefer St Viateur versus Fairmount. Come early. The lines reach around the block. (Join a Beyond The Bagel tour to navigate the crowds and understand the history of this community through its food. Include a stop at the Jewish Museum for the Shamta Factory tour.) Your next big decision is which smoked meat you prefer; Schwartz’s on St Laurent Boulevard was established in 1928 and is considered the gold standard. Smoked meat is a Montréal gastronomic art; brisket is brined for up to 14 days in savory spices, then finally smoked and steamed. Of course, there is also Wilensky’s, originally a cigar store, but long known for its special grill pressed sandwiches, particularly the salami, all-beef bologna and cheese Wilensky Special. All traditionally served hand mixed cherry cola or chocolate egg cream soda is recommended. While pondering these life defining decisions, enjoy a wide array of murals, readily found along The Main and beyond. Montreal is a wonderful, easily manageable city of just under 2-million, with 4-million in the broader metropolitan area, making it the second largest city in Canada. (Toronto is the largest, and those that read this blog, know we visited there a few years ago.) We organized this trip for a group of long time friends we travel with every year. If you haven’t been here recently, you should return. If it’s your first time, your only question will be why you waited so long?
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