Santa Barbara - Lotusland to Stagecoach

                    

Lotusland is a 37-acre subtropical and tropical wonderland realized by the vision of Hana Puacz, a Polish woman humbly born in 1887. A renowned  beauty, she changed her name from to Ganna Walska with the launch of  her operatic and acting career, performaning over the coming decades in New York, Paris and Europe, attracting the attention of audiences, critics and gentlemen on both sides of the Atlantic. The paparazzi followed her and men begged for her hand in marriage, including Harold  Fowler McCormick, who scandalously divorced Edith Rockefeller in 1922 in order to marry the socialite opera singer. 

                       

                       

Always an adventurer, and desiring to leave Nazi Europe, Madam Walska turned her sights toward California's sunny climate and free thinking residents. At the encouragement of her 6th, last and much younger husband, Theos Bernard, she purchased the Santa Barbara, Spanish inspired Mediterranean style Cuesta Linda estate in 1941, intending to use it as a retreat for Tibetan monks, renaming it "Tibetanland".

                       

The monks never appeared, and after divorcing Bernard, Madame Walsaka changed the estate's name to "Lotusland" in honor of the incredibly tall sacred Indian lotus growing in one of the estate's many ponds. For her life's remaining 40 years Walsaka transformed from socialite to renowned garden designer. Often selling jewels and bartering to fund acquisitions, she experimented with bold forms. mass plantings and unusual color combinations. Although there are topiaries, rose gardens and citrus arbors, the primary focus is on succulents, cactus,  airplants, palms, and cycads. Rare species abound, some protected by international treaties, occasionally representing the only natural site these plants can be found in the world. You had no idea some of these plants even existed and now you can't wait to discover more about them. 

                            

But all that garden wandering can make a person MIGHTY hungry. So Its off to the Cold Spring Tavern. Originally a stagecoach stop in 1865 between San Francisco and Los Angeles, it's located about 20 minutes by car north of Santa Barbara in Cold Spring Canyon in the Marcos Pass area on the way to Santa Ynez. We would have never found it without Steve's old MIT pal, Bob Johnson, leading the way. Okay - and with a little help from a local biker. 

                  

If your looking for tofu and vegan chow - this ISN'T your place. Folks make the trek here for venisin sausage, buffalo burgers, beef tips, their famous chili, wild bear - when available - and the amazing beer battered onion rings. Yes they do serve quiche and some seafood - but on the weekends it's bikers and BBQ. 

The Kaufman's thank Lisa and Bob Johnson for putting us up yet again in their historical Santa Barbara home with views down the valley to the water. We'd never find these gems, the restaurants or theaters without you. Heading this way - we'll ask the Johnson's for their recommendations. Trust us, you'll never know Santa Barbara until you get the Johnson's "visit list".

     

     

     

Music Weekend - Tanglewood or Boston's Copley Square

The weekend of July 24 had lots to offer - with thunderstorms threatening at every moment. 

We started with a Boston Pier reception to launch Boston's 4th annual Summer Arts Weekend.

Saturday morning Karen took off for  a quick overnight visit with her neice Crysta at Mt Holyoke College, where she's working for the summer. From there, it was an easy drive to Tanglewood, Lenox (we reccomend Alta's wine bar for amazing food) & charming Lee. Back to S Hadley and the Daniel Stebins B&B. 

Steve remained behind in Boston for an evenjng of music with, among others, R&B's Betty LaVette and Grammy Award winning Emmylou Harris with Rodney Crowell. 

Sunday afternoon was kicked off with Boston's 200 year old, continuously performing, famed Handel & Hayden Socirty  presentation of Beethoven's 9th Symphony, with it's moving Ode to Joy. Finished in 1824, when nearly completely deaf, it is said that the composer needed to be turned around from the conductor's podium to witness his audience's standing ovation with arms swaying in the air. The music engendered the same response today by over ten-thousand who had gathered in Copley Square. Ludwig is clearly still a rock star.

Followed by the fiddling and dancing Natalie MaMaster and New Orleans' own son Aaron Neville, there was something for everyone. 

Of course you could drive to the Tanglewood's  Berkshires, but then Copley Square is just a few short blocks away. We suggest you mark your calendars and we'll see you next year in Bodton. 

July 4th - New England Island Style

We agree that Boston offers magnificent Independence Day options - highlighted by the Boston Pops introducing the fireworks on the Charles River just behind our house. But when the weather's fair, the water calls and off we go on Blue Chip. 

       

Through the Cape Cod canal, with a lunch stop at Tarpaulin Cove to meet an MIT classmate of Steve's, then on to Martha's Vineyard and Cuttyhunk - that's the holiday island plan. 

Martha's Vineyard has much to offer. Across this 20 mile wide island, is a wide variety of geography, foliage, ponds, harbors and winding roads, punctuated by small towns, each with its own personality. 

Edgartown boasts a large protected harbor with a much appreciated launch service to our mooring. Arguably the most sophisticated town on the island, it might remind you of Nantucket Town "light".

Oak Bluffs charms with its countless rows of small, colorful Victorian homes. Time it right, and you can join the celebration at the outdoor tabernacle. 

Menemsha is a small fishing village in the islands northwest corner, with lovely beaches. This is certainly the place to go if you really want to escape. 

Along with our crew, Karen & Joe, we were fortunate to meet up with various friends who call Martha's Vineyard home. A full end to end tour from Bob and Liz revealed outlying farm stands, art galleries, biking, hiking and just how much there is to do here. Rodger and Sandy know every schedule for getting to the island, just in case you're feeling inspired. 

Cuttyhunk Island, a mere 7-8 miles away, and denoted by the blue dot on the right map, truly offers the escape we all sometimes crave. Located at the southwest end of the Elizabeth Islands, this small one square mile outpost boasts a wonderful harbor, beaches and a hilly terrain  dotted with cedar clapboard homes. Officially the town of Gosmold, the census population of 50 swells to the hundreds come summer. With islanders offering provisions, a few small restaurants, raw bar brought to your boat and fresh made donuts beginning at 6AM - or 6:30 or 7 - hey it's island time - everyone feels welcome. 

Not to be missed is the famous Cuttyhunk July 4th parade. Decorated golf carts are out in force. The fire department cools the crowd before everyone climbs the hill for local electives' welcome speaches and a batton twirling performance by Miss Massachusetts. 

Our friends Pat and Alan, who split their time between Cuttyhunk and Useppa, included us in a flury of family cocktails, BBQ and general good times, making it difficult to think of leaving. 

Even if you aren't a boater, take the daily ferry from New  Bedford and rent a house or stay at the Fishing Club B&B. There's long walks, terrific views, Pickle Ball and the nicest of folk. You'll never forget Cuttyhunk.

Although hardly a comprehensive visit of the Masdachusets islands, it's a terrific beginning for anyone interested in exploring. See you next Independence Day Weekrnd. 

50 Years - They Just Fly By!

                        

At Harvard Business School (HBS), after 50 years - you get 5 jam packed days of celebration. It all starts with a reception at the garden of Dean Nitin Norhea's house and then where off - for grads and their partners there will be 5 days filled with lots of sunshine, blue skies and little sleep!

For the non-initiated, each graduating class spends its first year divided into a group of about 90 students called  "Sections"  and so HBS reunions are as much about being with your SECTION, as your class. Our festivities began with a private "Section A" dinner at the Algonquin Club on Commonwealth Ave. Early the next morning the class of 1965 joined other significant graduating years and off we go for classes - and you had better have read your cases in case you get cold called. There are tours, luncheons, speakers - and yes that would be Mr. Steve Kaufman - head of of the 50th year reunion - addressing the class of 1965. Some things - okay a lot of things - have changed since the school was established in 1908, but then there's landmarks like Baker Library (above) which has been around since 1911. 

                         

So how to top it off? How about an evening with Keith Lockhart leading the Boston Pops for Harvard Business School graduates? Symphony Hall, inaugurated in1900, is cleared and cocktail tables set up as we settle in for an evening of music, laughs and fun. Sunday morning the class of 1965 lingers over brunch as if they've never been apart. We're already missing each other and certainly won't be waiting another 50 years to get together again. Oh - and we're thrilled there's not an HBS tradition of distributing weird colored, poly blazers when you hit the big 50. We're still trying to figure out what to do with the MIT crimson fashion statement blazer from the 50th undergrad reunion 2-years ago! Anyone have any ideas?

Norfolk to Boston - with a New York Harbor Drive By

Blue Chip spent the Winter in Norfolk,VA and has been patiently awaiting her return to Boston. With Vic Trino on board, there was a stop to visit the Ligibels, past crew now in Annapolis. A crew change in Atlantic City brought Karen's cousin Lynne and husband Jan onboard. 

It was onward to NY Harbor - always a highlight of the cruise back to Boston. There's nothing like beating the line at the Staue of Liberty and pushing through the currents as you see her by sea!

Then there's cruising the island's south west end, past the Freedom Tower, World Financial Center and their Palm Court and Financial Center Marina. 

Round Manhattan Island's tip and pass by Brooklyn as you go under the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges. 

Continue onward up the East River past the Empire State Building's unmistakable profile and the Chrysler Building's Art Deco top. Just beyond is the UN and more bridges as you make your way to Long Island Sound. The trip goes on past Queens and along  the northern coast of Long Island, with a quick nosing into Huntington Harbor where Steve and Karen both lived - at different times of course. An evening in Newport, Rhode Island and then it's a cutting through Buzzards Bay canal to bring everyone back to Boston. What a way to spend Memorial Day weekend!  

Crew sign up early for next year and this not to be forgotten course! 

Three Sure Fire Ways To Tell That Spring Has Arrived in Boston

1. The Kaufmans go with the Lassiters to a Sox-Yankee game at Fenway.

                         

2. Trees that were budless and bulbs that had barely broken ground simultaneously explode - transforming Winter into Spring for about three weeks before we slam into Summer.

                           

3. Hundreds of  lilacs bushes bloom in Audubon Park for the 40,000 Mothers' Day visitors. (Some of us cheat and show up a day early to escape a crowd that is larger than a sold out Fenway stadium.)

                              

Welcome to Boston. We wait a long time for Spring, but when it arrives, there's nothing better!

     

      

    

How to Purchase Livestock in Kashgar - Bagels Served

                         

Kashgar's livestock market has been here for over two-thousand years. There are countless interesting faces and subtleties of dress that identify origin. Most animals are recognizable, but take a careful look at those never-before-seen "fat bottomed sheep" in the picture above - oh yeah!

For decades this market spanned three days, attracting people coming from Pakistan, Afghanistan and current day Kirghizistan and Tajikistan. Although  now limited to Sunday, little else has changed. People still come from far and wide to trade sheep, donkeys, asses, goats, horses and camels. Older animals, including camels are sold for meat, or slaughtered while you wait - very convenient. 

Need your sheep shorn? No problem. Sheep are straddled and regular everyday scissors  appear to slowly remove the winter's wool. Wondering how fast a horse moves? A designated rider spends the day demonstrating speed as he gallops the markets width. Harnesses, bells, you name it - if it's for livestock, this is the place to be. 

Whether barter or cash, an intermediary is always required, a throw back to a time when a translator was almost always needed because of how far people travelled to do business here.  Livestock exchange is a 4-step process - as documented below by Steve. We all know what a process guy he is!

                                          

                          

                         

Oh, there's also lots of food, including bagels - sesame only. Who knew? We also recommend the hand pulled noodles with lots of fresh local ingredients. Although it's suggested to avoid "street food", how can you resist when it looks and smells so good? Karen's theory is give it a try - you only live once and besides introducing something foreign might just build up your immune system. Besides, the locals give you a big thumbs up when you sample what their eating. 

         

In spite of receiving virtually no annual rainfall, underground rivers and snow melt allows Kashgar to be known for its cotton and as the land of fruit, where peaches, pears, grapes, pomegranates and almonds dominate. And of course there is many forms of animal husbandry. So if you find yourself in Xinjiang, China's far west Uigur Autonomous Region, along the Takla Markan Desert at the foot of the Pamirs, where the Karakoram Range and the Tibet Nagimeet meet, then stop by.

If you go several miles away to the main town of Kashgar you'll be enchanted by the old town. Shops, dental offices, food stands (try the fresh finely chopped goat stuffed tandoori dumplings), ornately painted wooden rocking baby cradles and electric motor scooters wind their way up to the simple, yet beautiful yellow Id Kah Mosque - "place of happiness" - built in 1442.  This Moslem enclave seems to have escaped the aggressive Cinese influx until you notice Chinese appearing armed guards separating small groups of pedestrians, as well as the Chinese Han line dancing to loud music in front of the masque as mid-afternoon prayer ends. The "Han" writing is clearly on the wall.

Kashgar in Brief:

- Population - 35,000 during ancient times vs 4-million today

- Ethnic demographics - 31 Ethnic groups live in Kashgar, dominated by 75%   Uyghur Moslem population 

- Religious demographics - Buddhism was poplar during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), but after being conquered by the people of Turkic dissent, Islam gradually became the main religion

- Silk Road Significance - Kashgar was historically a trading center - westward to Europe via the Fergana Valley of present day Uzbekistan, as well as routes going south to the Kashmir region and north to Urunqi. 

Turpan - Rediscovered Ancient Cities - never too late to post......

       

After miles of wind farms and desert, you turn into what looks like a blank ochre and blue skied canvas of packed sand. Welcome to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Jiaohr, or "river junction". Indeed a river does split and surround both sides of this 30 meter high plateau. Finding yourself in Xinjiang, China's far southwest Uigur Autonomous Region along the Takla Markan Desert at the foot of the Pamirs where the Karakoram Range and the Tibet Nagimeet meet might seem like quite a stretch, but it offers a truly unique experience.  This 30 meter high plateau city was primarily carved down into the land. It once boasted  20,000 inhabitants and 2,000 soldiers, principally around the 6-10 CE, Tang Dynasty. Below ground structures evidence buildings for banking, with multi wall protected safes, sophisticated homes,  shops,mescape routes for royalty and above ground buildings of worship for Buddhist, Zoroastrian and other ancient faiths. 

           

Although inhabited from 200 BCE to 1200CE, it eventually fell to Ghangis Khan's conquering Mongols in the 13c CE.  As often was the case, the Mongols came, plundered and moved on, all but obliterating this city that had raised huge income for its royal municipality from passing traders, who would have required papers and sizable fees for entering such a sophisticated Silk Road metropolis  with multiple water sources. Even though it was located in the desert, its natural materials would have kept one cool in the summer and warm in the chilly desert evenings. 

The Bezeklikik Thousand Budha Caves are your next stop while in the area. No photos are allowed in these grottos located in the Mutou Valley of the Flaming Mountains. Carved into a mountains and decorated multiple times between 400-1300CE, the painted images depict Budha amongst daily life. BAs a critical Silk Road crossroad and pilgrimage site,  the area underwent many changes of rule, invasion and migration, resulting in a melting pot of imagery. A reclining Buddha covers three walks, surrounded by Cauacasuan, Mongoloid, Hindu, Uighur and South Asians. In early days, much of the artwork had been defaced by Muslim invaders. However it was the German Vin Lecoq who chiseled out and took to Germany the best of what was to be found in the 1900's. Still, seeing what remains is a dramatic reminder of the culture, history and role of religion over a behind of nearly century. It's a road worth taking 

Urumqi - Land of Quiger

                                   

As we travel further west, still along the Gobi Desert and it's southern mountains, there's no doubt that Urumqi, part of the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, has a distinctly different heritage. The "regional minority" Uyghur people's light skin, warm hair and varied eye color reflect their Turkic-Persian  background. Virtually all are moderate Moslem, with varying levels of practice. Many men wear the embroidered rectangular caps we've been seeing, but women's clothing runs the gamut from western to local bright ikat weaves, sometimes with scarves as head coverings, but generally not.  Uyghur's have a strong attachment to their cultures long history and practices that embraces Muslim faith, peace, charity, education, music and dance

We thoroughly enjoyed the main bazzar in the primarily Quiger Moslem area with its incredible collection of fabrics, instruments, metal work and jade right next to the cities main mosque. 

                                          

But what you quickly realize is that this long, thin densely populated city is in rapid transition as the result of the forced introduction of a couple of million Han Chinese. With the Han has come the infusion of billions in capital by the Chinese government. Large luxury malls and countless highrise apartments have been built to attract the Han from other Chinese provinces.  Over the last decade, virtually all signage replaced Quiger Arabic script with Chinese characters, even on local transportation, making it difficult for many people to get around. Mandarin has legally become the common language and whereas a decade ago one could choose the Uyghur's Turkic or Mandarin based schools, now all are education is in Mandarin. The Uyghur however, still maintain two clocks - "Chinese time" which is the time in Beijing time that all of China uses regardless of time zone and "Uyghur time" which is two hours earlier.

Less than two decades ago, the Chinese promised that no more than 10% of Han would be introduced into Urumqi or any autonomous minority region.  Now they make up 75% of Urumqi's population. Han are offered job training and housing upon arrival. In Urumqi, Uighur are rapidly being marginalized in terms of language, the rewriting of history, access to employment and housing. They are essentially enduring ethnic genocide, ensuring greater Chinese access to water and mineral rights.

In the meantime, the development is dizzying and traffic is legendary. Army security and presence is prevalent. When you see armed guards around the main mosque, it's uncertain if it's to keep people in or out. It's realistic to say that in another decade Urumqi will simply look  like another Chinese Han city.

There are about a dozen other regional minorities in Xinjiang Province, most of living outside of Urumqi.  Many share in the Uyghur Turkic heritage, along with Mongolia, Tibet and other nations. 

Come here before the Uyghur all but vanish from this city, along with their intriguing culture. 

Urumqi in Brief:

- Unknown ancient population and 3.5 million today

- Ethnic demographics - majority Han 

- Religious demographics - Han 75% Uyghur 13%, Hui 8%, Kazakhs 2%, Others 2%

- Silk Road significance - Still a major industrial center within Xinjiang Provence, Urumqi was a major hub on the SilkRoad during China's Tang Dynasty and developed its reputation as a leadin cultural and commercial center during the Qing Dynasty.       

Sunrise Camel Ride in Dunhuang's Whispering Mountains

                         

5:30 comes very early, particularly in a country that remains in one time, no matter how far you are from Beijing. Here we are bundled up against the 45 degree outdoor early morning temperature and donned with yellow sand boot covers. 

                           

After a couple of miles on our Bactrian 2-humped camels, we make our way to the Resounding Sandune's mountain oasis.  When you climb to the top of the dune, you discover one side is soft, burying your legs knee deep, while the other is as firm as stone. The reward, an amazing breakfast worth getting up before first light. 

Dunhuang in Brief:

- Named Shazhou in ancient times

- 50,000 to 100,000 Ancient population and 190,00 today

- Ethnic demographics - Msjority Han Chinese

- Religious demographics -  for centuries Dunhuang was the center  Budddhism in China.  Today, various religions can be found here.