Monday, April 20, 2015

Turpan - Rediscovered Ancient Cities - never too late to post......

       
After miles of wind farms and desert, you turn into what looks like a blank ochre and blue skied canvas of packed sand. Welcome to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Jiaohr, or "river junction". Indeed a river does split and surround both sides of this 30 meter high plateau. Finding yourself in Xinjiang, China's far southwest Uigur Autonomous Region along the Takla Markan Desert at the foot of the Pamirs where the Karakoram Range and the Tibet Nagimeet meet might seem like quite a stretch, but it offers a truly unique experience.  This 30 meter high plateau city was primarily carved down into the land. It once boasted  20,000 inhabitants and 2,000 soldiers, principally around the 6-10 CE, Tang Dynasty. Below ground structures evidence buildings for banking, with multi wall protected safes, sophisticated homes,  shops,mescape routes for royalty and above ground buildings of worship for Buddhist, Zoroastrian and other ancient faiths. 
           
Although inhabited from 200 BCE to 1200CE, it eventually fell to Ghangis Khan's conquering Mongols in the 13c CE.  As often was the case, the Mongols came, plundered and moved on, all but obliterating this city that had raised huge income for its royal municipality from passing traders, who would have required papers and sizable fees for entering such a sophisticated Silk Road metropolis  with multiple water sources. Even though it was located in the desert, its natural materials would have kept one cool in the summer and warm in the chilly desert evenings. 

The Bezeklikik Thousand Budha Caves are your next stop while in the area. No photos are allowed in these grottos located in the Mutou Valley of the Flaming Mountains. Carved into a mountains and decorated multiple times between 400-1300CE, the painted images depict Budha amongst daily life. BAs a critical Silk Road crossroad and pilgrimage site,  the area underwent many changes of rule, invasion and migration, resulting in a melting pot of imagery. A reclining Buddha covers three walks, surrounded by Cauacasuan, Mongoloid, Hindu, Uighur and South Asians. In early days, much of the artwork had been defaced by Muslim invaders. However it was the German Vin Lecoq who chiseled out and took to Germany the best of what was to be found in the 1900's. Still, seeing what remains is a dramatic reminder of the culture, history and role of religion over a behind of nearly century. It's a road worth taking 

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