As we travel further west, still along the Gobi Desert and it's southern mountains, there's no doubt that Urumqi, part of the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, has a distinctly different heritage. The "regional minority" Uyghur people's light skin, warm hair and varied eye color reflect their Turkic-Persian background. Virtually all are moderate Moslem, with varying levels of practice. Many men wear the embroidered rectangular caps we've been seeing, but women's clothing runs the gamut from western to local bright ikat weaves, sometimes with scarves as head coverings, but generally not. Uyghur's have a strong attachment to their cultures long history and practices that embraces Muslim faith, peace, charity, education, music and dance
We thoroughly enjoyed the main bazzar in the primarily Quiger Moslem area with its incredible collection of fabrics, instruments, metal work and jade right next to the cities main mosque.
But what you quickly realize is that this long, thin densely populated city is in rapid transition as the result of the forced introduction of a couple of million Han Chinese. With the Han has come the infusion of billions in capital by the Chinese government. Large luxury malls and countless highrise apartments have been built to attract the Han from other Chinese provinces. Over the last decade, virtually all signage replaced Quiger Arabic script with Chinese characters, even on local transportation, making it difficult for many people to get around. Mandarin has legally become the common language and whereas a decade ago one could choose the Uyghur's Turkic or Mandarin based schools, now all are education is in Mandarin. The Uyghur however, still maintain two clocks - "Chinese time" which is the time in Beijing time that all of China uses regardless of time zone and "Uyghur time" which is two hours earlier.
Less than two decades ago, the Chinese promised that no more than 10% of Han would be introduced into Urumqi or any autonomous minority region. Now they make up 75% of Urumqi's population. Han are offered job training and housing upon arrival. In Urumqi, Uighur are rapidly being marginalized in terms of language, the rewriting of history, access to employment and housing. They are essentially enduring ethnic genocide, ensuring greater Chinese access to water and mineral rights.
In the meantime, the development is dizzying and traffic is legendary. Army security and presence is prevalent. When you see armed guards around the main mosque, it's uncertain if it's to keep people in or out. It's realistic to say that in another decade Urumqi will simply look like another Chinese Han city.
There are about a dozen other regional minorities in Xinjiang Province, most of living outside of Urumqi. Many share in the Uyghur Turkic heritage, along with Mongolia, Tibet and other nations.
Come here before the Uyghur all but vanish from this city, along with their intriguing culture.
Urumqi in Brief:
- Unknown ancient population and 3.5 million today
- Ethnic demographics - majority Han
- Religious demographics - Han 75% Uyghur 13%, Hui 8%, Kazakhs 2%, Others 2%
- Silk Road significance - Still a major industrial center within Xinjiang Provence, Urumqi was a major hub on the SilkRoad during China's Tang Dynasty and developed its reputation as a leadin cultural and commercial center during the Qing Dynasty.
No comments:
Post a Comment