Wednesday, April 22, 2015

How to Purchase Livestock in Kashgar - Bagels Served


                         
Kashgar's livestock market has been here for over two-thousand years. There are countless interesting faces and subtleties of dress that identify origin. Most animals are recognizable, but take a careful look at those never-before-seen "fat bottomed sheep" in the picture above - oh yeah!

For decades this market spanned three days, attracting people coming from Pakistan, Afghanistan and current day Kirghizistan and Tajikistan. Although  now limited to Sunday, little else has changed. People still come from far and wide to trade sheep, donkeys, asses, goats, horses and camels. Older animals, including camels are sold for meat, or slaughtered while you wait - very convenient. 

Need your sheep shorn? No problem. Sheep are straddled and regular everyday scissors  appear to slowly remove the winter's wool. Wondering how fast a horse moves? A designated rider spends the day demonstrating speed as he gallops the markets width. Harnesses, bells, you name it - if it's for livestock, this is the place to be. 

Whether barter or cash, an intermediary is always required, a throw back to a time when a translator was almost always needed because of how far people travelled to do business here.  Livestock exchange is a 4-step process - as documented below by Steve. We all know what a process guy he is!


                                          
                          
                         
Oh, there's also lots of food, including bagels - sesame only. Who knew? We also recommend the hand pulled noodles with lots of fresh local ingredients. Although it's suggested to avoid "street food", how can you resist when it looks and smells so good? Karen's theory is give it a try - you only live once and besides introducing something foreign might just build up your immune system. Besides, the locals give you a big thumbs up when you sample what their eating. 
         
In spite of receiving virtually no annual rainfall, underground rivers and snow melt allows Kashgar to be known for its cotton and as the land of fruit, where peaches, pears, grapes, pomegranates and almonds dominate. And of course there is many forms of animal husbandry. So if you find yourself in Xinjiang, China's far west Uigur Autonomous Region, along the Takla Markan Desert at the foot of the Pamirs, where the Karakoram Range and the Tibet Nagimeet meet, then stop by.

If you go several miles away to the main town of Kashgar you'll be enchanted by the old town. Shops, dental offices, food stands (try the fresh finely chopped goat stuffed tandoori dumplings), ornately painted wooden rocking baby cradles and electric motor scooters wind their way up to the simple, yet beautiful yellow Id Kah Mosque - "place of happiness" - built in 1442.  This Moslem enclave seems to have escaped the aggressive Cinese influx until you notice Chinese appearing armed guards separating small groups of pedestrians, as well as the Chinese Han line dancing to loud music in front of the masque as mid-afternoon prayer ends. The "Han" writing is clearly on the wall.

Kashgar in Brief:
- Population - 35,000 during ancient times vs 4-million today
- Ethnic demographics - 31 Ethnic groups live in Kashgar, dominated by 75%   Uyghur Moslem population 
- Religious demographics - Buddhism was poplar during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), but after being conquered by the people of Turkic dissent, Islam gradually became the main religion
- Silk Road Significance - Kashgar was historically a trading center - westward to Europe via the Fergana Valley of present day Uzbekistan, as well as routes going south to the Kashmir region and north to Urunqi. 




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