The Islands and a Return to Boston

Sag Harbor, located north of  East Hampton, has long been one of Karen's two favorite south shore locations. Sag Harbor was a thriving village during the days of  the Crown prior to 1776. Briefly a port of entry for the state of New York, the James Howell Inn stood at the  site of today's American Hotel.  Dating  from 1846, it was a welcome reprieve during the whaling industry boom. Today there are 8 well appointed double rooms with Frette sheets and a delightful sitting and dining room where you can share one of its 17,000 bottles of wine. The outdoor porch is the perfect Main Steet view.   

Sag Harbor is located north of East Hampton on Gardiners Bay, is a bit off the beaten path and long been a low key location. Historical buildings, superb hardware, home furnishing, mid century furniture, a five-and-dime store; this feels like a true village, albeit well curated.

Their is a public marina that abuts one of the town's two private marinas that are on both sides of the town's well known Long Whatf built in 1780.. A windmill is located at its base as well as a wonderful ice cream store. The small marina office belies its resident ships which covers the gamut from small 20 foot run-abouts to those sporting toys and alternate means of transport - note the Mini Cooper.  There is a local laundromat, bagel store, IGA and organic grocery stores for provisioning.  A number of excellent restaurants can be found within easy walking distance.  Dopo, Lulu, Muse and Page are favorites. Bay Street Theatre, numerous music, film and an excellent book store all speak to the villages cuktural focus. Sag has been discovered so find your way here quickly! 

Go just a few miles north through North Haven and the Shelter Island ferry will take you partly across Gardiner Bay, closer to Long Island's north fork. Locals have rejected suggestions for a causeway, preferring the ferry that can take as many as four cars, a few bicycles and a handful of walk ons. The cedar shingle homes are passed down from generation to generation.  There are only a handful of Inns.  Try coming out of season with a heavy sweater for a magical experience. 

Less than 15 miles away from both Montauk Long Island and Rhode Island, is the ever charming Block Island, named after the Dutch explorer Adriaen Block. 40% of the island's 10-square miles is conservation land. A little over 1,000 people live on the remaining acerage.  Take a one hour ferry from Montauk Long Island, New London CT or Newport RI. If you reserve a spot on Blue Chip, we will be grabbing a mooring or anchoring in its incredibly protected harbor.  But captain Steve might tell you it's the delivery of fresh baked goods each morning that is the harbor'  best attribute. 

Block Island to Menemsha on Martha's Vineyard southwest coast is a mere 25 nautical miles.  MV has several towns, each with their own distinct persona.  Menemsha is a working harbor and perfect if you looking for a low key escape. 

Blue Chip stands out at this modest marina. A long sandy beach is worth a stroll and the sunsets can be spectacular. 

Wander the surrounding village for fresh seafood. A small ferry takes you across the harbor for secluded bike riding.  

Artists from the early 1900's would find Menemsha not much changed.  

Current artists continue to find inspiration here.  So take the ferry from Woods Hole or New Bedford, MA. But when you arrive at Vineyard Haven make your way west and explore the farming and fishing on the island's west coast. 

Onset is located at Buzzards Bay. This large protected harbor is located just to the west of the Cape Cod Canal. Guess this means it's time to head home, but look at that sunset! Maybe we should give Boston a second thought.  

The 7 mile long Cape Cod Canal was completed in 1914 as part of the Atlantic Intercoastal Waterway to cut through Cape Cod by joining  Bourne, the location of the Massachusetts Maritime Academy, with Scusset Massachusetts.  Bourne and Sagamore bridges allow boat clearance of 135 feet. A parallel bike path provides wonderful views as boats make there way through cruising at a maximum of 10 mikes per hour.  

Situate provides one last night of anchoring out - aka "swinging on the hook" - before facing life on land and a new school year.  Besides beautiful light, a harbor launch runs until 11, if you care for a bite at the local yacht club.  Hmmm, maybe we should consider just one more night! 

Ah, but here we are, home at Boston's Constitution Marina.  She is still as comfortable as when she arrived 14 years ago. It's been a good year of cruising. Please do let us know if you'd like to join us next year. You never know where you might end up.  

Chappequiddick to Cape Pogue to Chilmark

Our annual McKinsey reunion began over 20 years ago. A group of about 10 couples rotate hosting this gathering whose primary purpose is to simply enjoy each other's company and get to know the places the couples find most special. This year we are on Martha's Vineyard, home of the McArts for over twenty years and the location of one of their first dates - which goes back well over 40 years. 

                             

We begin on the "On Time II" three car Chappy Ferry that links the south eastern tip of Martha's Vineyard Edgartown to Chappaquiddick. Get there early, particularly on this weekend, the beginning of the fishing derby, where being in line for over an hour is easily the norm if you arrive after 9AM. 

                            

We meet the Trustees of Reservations for an over-sand vehicle tour of the Cape Pogue Wildlife Refuge and lighthouse. Lowland marsh, terms, countless swallows and white egrets join us as we dodge rising tides on this thin strip of land, alternating between ocean and bay. The gray skies and bursts of wind and to the mystique of a late New England summer day.  

          

   

The 35-foot Cape Pogue lighthouse was authorized by Congress in 1801 for $2,000, to guide whaling boat fleets around Cape Pogue. This picture of the was taken in 1844 after the lighthouse had been moved, due to erosion and a three room light keepers house was added. 

                       

The tower was moved several  more times, but this 35-foot red doored structure used today was the final one built in 1893. The last move was in 1987 and required a helicopter to pick up and lift the structure 500 feet inland to avoid coastal erosion. The prism encases flashing white bulbs which can be seen nine miles away.  The outside views from above are magnificent and the winding stairs could never be duplicated today. It is a bit of an effort to come here, but you will never forget it. Return by ferry to Edgartwown and enjoy lunch at the blue-umbrella emblazoned Seafood Shanty - you can't go wrong. 

                            

Small family farms have long been the soul of Martha's Vineyard and rapidly making a come back. Eric and Molly were foodies cum farmers who started the Grey Barn Farm in Chilmark, a truly bucolic area along the southwest Vineyard not far from Menemsha. The young family purchased the farm in 2009. Although they acknowledge their learning curve was beyond steep, they now have a thriving Oreo-cow dairy farm, sell milk and make wonderful cheeses that can be found at local cheese stores and Whole Foods in the New York  and New England areas - so ask! There's also beef, veal and pork production, along with laying hens. All products are available at their on-site farmstand store, unless the chalkboard sign says otherwise. Look for them at Sunday's Chilmark farmers market. 

                          

Just next door is the Kara Taylor Gallery. From stone sculptures, to oils with gold leaf, themed photos, often enhanced with self coloring or ecaustic, all the multi-media work is her own. Primarily open on weekend afternoons, Kara's gallery is worth a stop. 

Cathy Walthers was the finale to our first night on Marth's Vineyard. She is a local private chef, best known outside of Martha's Vineyard for her cookbooks: Soup and Sides, Raising the Salad Bar, Kale Glorious Kale and her upcoming book on Cocktails. We were invited to her home, just across the street from gallery and farm, to participate in a cooking and cocktail demonstration (pomegranate mint gimlets anyone?) and fantastic gourmet meal of local fish, vegetables and peach, nectarine. raspberry crostata. Yum! Keep your eye out for her recipes. They are practical, very tasty and you don't need to be over-the-top health obsessed to love them. If Steve AND Karen both approve, you know they're perfect for just about anyone!

More on Martha's Vineyard to come! 

     

     

July 4th - New England Island Style

We agree that Boston offers magnificent Independence Day options - highlighted by the Boston Pops introducing the fireworks on the Charles River just behind our house. But when the weather's fair, the water calls and off we go on Blue Chip. 

       

Through the Cape Cod canal, with a lunch stop at Tarpaulin Cove to meet an MIT classmate of Steve's, then on to Martha's Vineyard and Cuttyhunk - that's the holiday island plan. 

Martha's Vineyard has much to offer. Across this 20 mile wide island, is a wide variety of geography, foliage, ponds, harbors and winding roads, punctuated by small towns, each with its own personality. 

Edgartown boasts a large protected harbor with a much appreciated launch service to our mooring. Arguably the most sophisticated town on the island, it might remind you of Nantucket Town "light".

Oak Bluffs charms with its countless rows of small, colorful Victorian homes. Time it right, and you can join the celebration at the outdoor tabernacle. 

Menemsha is a small fishing village in the islands northwest corner, with lovely beaches. This is certainly the place to go if you really want to escape. 

Along with our crew, Karen & Joe, we were fortunate to meet up with various friends who call Martha's Vineyard home. A full end to end tour from Bob and Liz revealed outlying farm stands, art galleries, biking, hiking and just how much there is to do here. Rodger and Sandy know every schedule for getting to the island, just in case you're feeling inspired. 

Cuttyhunk Island, a mere 7-8 miles away, and denoted by the blue dot on the right map, truly offers the escape we all sometimes crave. Located at the southwest end of the Elizabeth Islands, this small one square mile outpost boasts a wonderful harbor, beaches and a hilly terrain  dotted with cedar clapboard homes. Officially the town of Gosmold, the census population of 50 swells to the hundreds come summer. With islanders offering provisions, a few small restaurants, raw bar brought to your boat and fresh made donuts beginning at 6AM - or 6:30 or 7 - hey it's island time - everyone feels welcome. 

Not to be missed is the famous Cuttyhunk July 4th parade. Decorated golf carts are out in force. The fire department cools the crowd before everyone climbs the hill for local electives' welcome speaches and a batton twirling performance by Miss Massachusetts. 

Our friends Pat and Alan, who split their time between Cuttyhunk and Useppa, included us in a flury of family cocktails, BBQ and general good times, making it difficult to think of leaving. 

Even if you aren't a boater, take the daily ferry from New  Bedford and rent a house or stay at the Fishing Club B&B. There's long walks, terrific views, Pickle Ball and the nicest of folk. You'll never forget Cuttyhunk.

Although hardly a comprehensive visit of the Masdachusets islands, it's a terrific beginning for anyone interested in exploring. See you next Independence Day Weekrnd.