Zurich - the Capital of Switzerland

            

Karen had never been and Steve was there on a McKinsey assignment for about 5 months, well a really long time ago. So while we were in the neighborhood, why not take the 50 minute train ride from Lucerne to Zurich?

                      

As we walk from the Park Hyatt near Lake  Zurich, to the old town, we wait for the iron man (or person, if we were being politically correct) to pass. Public athletics seems to be a theme in so many places we have visited making us feel just a tiny bit guilty about the daily afternoon gelato. This lovely enamel piece, on the right above, reminds us of the iconic alphorn. Note the blue and white flag, which is on a diagonal, which is specific to Zurich's canton. (What is Massachusets state flag, again?)

                              

The old town along the Limmat River, has charming cobbled walking streets for both tourists and residents alike. The merchant guild houses, dating back to as early as 1303, often have restaurants or places to stop for a cocktail down below, providing a chance to look out over the 22 mile Limmat River which joins Lake Zurrich or Zurichsee.

                   

 Besides sidewalk cafes, there are numerous shops, walls painted with frescos of days gone by and the occasional embellished dairy cow. Naturally watches can be found in abundance. We couldn't resist these vintage Mickys. What's interesting is how few digital options you see, clearly showing a preference for the country's long time watch heritage.

                   

What trip to Zurich would be complete without fondue? The charming, whitewashed, Le Dezaley has been opened since 1903. Their mix of Gruyere and Vacherin Fribourgeois, which has a full, distinctive flavor and does not make the sauce stringy, with a dash of Fendant or Sauvignon Blanc is just as Steve  remembered, and you will too! 

                     

The distinctive Fraumunster is one of the oldest religious buildings in Zurich, founded on July 21, 853 as a Benedictine convent, with sisters Hildegard and then Bertha as its first two abbesses. The Abby's great importance is reflected by the 11th century royal decree, granting it the right to mint coins, hold markets and collect tolls. From the 13th century, the incumbent abyss was also the formal ruler of the city of Zurich and given the title of imperial princess.  The era ended with the Reformation of 1524, the last abbess handing over the keys and all its assets to the city of Zurich. At this time the altars were removed and the central pulpit added transforming the Frauminster into a Reformed Protestant church, which it still is today. There is an impressive 29 foot tall stained created in 1903 by the Swiss artist, Augusto Giacometti. However, it is the Jewish artist Marc Chagall's rose window and five stained glass windows depicting scenes from the Old Testament, along with the birth and death of the Redeemer that helps to attract over 500,000 visitors each year. The windows were inaugurated in 1970 in the presence of the then 83-year-old Chagall, of which Picasso said, "Somewhere on the other side of his head there must be an angel."

                       

The Kunsthaus Zurich contains one of Zurich's most important art collections. The museum's collection spans centuries.  My particular favorite is the Giacometti collection. Although it focuses on Augusto, there are also works of his father, the post impressionist painter Giovanni, and his younger brother Diego. The contemporary collection is housed in an impressive airy space and a new building has begun across the street. Outside Rodin's Gates of Hell are installed. Overall an impressive and comprehensive art museum that's well worth a trip and is an easy walk from the more tourist filled areas. And, if you're feeling adventurous and looking for panoramic views, you can take the nearby cog train up into the hills.

In th evening we  took the short drive up to Sonnenberg to revisit where Steve and Sharon once had an apartment when he lived here while working for McKinsey. The views of Lake Zurich, with the beginning of the alps were almost as incredible as he remembered.  

        

The nearby stately Dolder Grand, built in 1905, is beautiful and certainly worth a visit, if not to stay for its spa and surroundings, at least for a cocktail and the view. Its sister hotel and restaurant slightly down the mountain, Walhuas Dolder, can be reached from town by cog train but is about to be closed for a major renovation. 

                      

Zurich is considered one of the world's most livable cities.  It may be Switzerland's largest, but with a population of less than 500,000, you'll never feel closed in. So whether you prefer the old historical areas or the contemporary, the Limmat River or Lake Zurich, you will be simply delighted with a visit here. 
    

 

   

  

Glacier Express and Lucerne

           

          

The Glacier Express is an express train connecting two of the major Swiss Alps ski resorts, Zermatt and St Moritz/Davos.  We took boarded for a morning's trip from Zermatt to Andermatt. Even with the light rain, it was a stunning outing. Along the way, headsets keep you apprised of interesting places and history. One of the most memorable was the folklore of the Devil's Bridge, the bottom line of which is that a goat  herder tricked the devil into accepting the soul of a goat, instead of a human soul. The devil gathered the largest rock he could find to destroy the bridge he had built, but a women making the sign of the cross so distracted him, that the boulder crashed to the ground, missing the bridge. In 1977, the 220 ton boulder was moved 127 meters at the cost of 330,000 Swiss franc to make room for the Gotthard Road Tunnel, so maybe the devil got the last laugh after all. 

Andermatt  is a stunning yet sleepy town, which was much ignored since the opening of the Gotthard Railway Tunnel in 1881. Other rail and car tunnels have kept it off many travelers lists, but it has also kept it remarkably well preserved.  It truly is worth a visit. Try the Baren Restaurant and Rooms.  

      

Then onto Lucern, where the Reuss River meets Lake Lucerne, which is 24 miles long, 700 feet at its deepest point and joins four cantons (states).  The flower bedecked 669 foot wooden Chapel Bridge, with its Wasserturm, or water tower,  has linked the two shores since the 15th century. Painted panels fitted into the many wooden eaves tell the story of that time. If you're in a hurry for the train, or not that interested in history,  you can take the contemporary Seebrucke overpass, used by city dwellers, bicyclist and commuters alike, which provides great views in both directions. 

                     

Many of the Alstad (Old City) buildings have painted facades that go back to the 14th century and days of the guilds, where images on the outside reflected the business being conducted inside. You certainly won't want to miss the market along the river, where young and old come for everything from Sonnenblumen (sunflowers) to berries (the way you remember they used to taste), breads, cheeses, pastas and meats. But don't miss the art museums, of which there are several to choose from. A personal favorite was the classic modernist Museum Samlung Rosengart, an extensive private collection of Paul Klee, as well as Picasso, with whom both Angela and her father, Siegfried, had a long lasting relationship. Among the many unique pieces are the original metal plates with prints Picasso did of Angela and rare photos of his studio and wedding day pictures with Jacqueline, taken by Picasso's American friend David Duncan Douglas. 

The city seems always in the midst of conducting  an art, music or theatre festival. The Blue Balls (we're not sure exactly what got lost in the translation) music festival had multiple venues with a wide variety of contemporary music happening all over town while we were there.  Book a room at the majestic lakeside Scweizerhof Hotel, where Mark Twain stayed, and treat yourself to dinner at an amazing hilltop lake view from The Montana - which refers to mountains, not the US West.  

      

While in the area, take the 150 year old cogwheel train, the world's steepest, traveling at grades as steep as 48-degrees and 2 sets of cable cars to the top of Mount Pilatus. You'll pass grazing cows with mammoth bells and beautiful scenery as you make your way up to the iconic Hotel Pilatus, which opened its doors in 1890. Theodore Roosevelt and Queen Victoria were among its early guests. 

The naming of this mountain derives from several lores. One is that Pontius  Pilate's remains are here, after being moved from various international locations. (His legacy made him not particularly popular and it is supposed that up in these mountains his remains could do no harm.) A medieval legend refers to dragons with healing powers and enormous golden wings living in the mountains. The name may also have simply been derived from "pilateus " which means "cloud topped". 

       

On a clear day, the view to Lucerne is said to be spectacular. You can climb from the Pilatus Hotel to Orenhaupt (6913 feet) or Esel (6953 feet) and, on the day we were there, climb above the clouds. The descent is steep, but the experience worth it! 

Overall, Lucerne is a breathtaking city with incredible surroundings of natural beauty which inspired Wagner's Ring Cycle. Hills with beautiful old castle-like buildings tumble down to the lake as far as the eye can see. Walt Disney came here every few years for inspiration and the iconic White Castle of Sleeping Beauty and international Disney Park fame is styled after  Lucerne's Gutsch Castle. 

Tolstoy said of his visit to Lucerne in 1857, "On arriving in my room and opening the window facing the lake, the beauty of this water and of this day in the first moment literally blinded and then shook me. I experienced an internal unrest and the necessity of giving some expression to that superabundance with which my heart brimmed over."

 

    

   

The Matterhorn

          

We spent two lovely days in Zermatt, a charming German speaking ski, hiking and climbing town of 5,800 in the Swiss Alps 5,300 feet above sea level. Only accessible by train, all transportation in town is walking or electrical vehicles. Besides the pristine air and cool evenings, the summer's big draw is taking the 150 year old cog wheel train, the highest open-air railway in Europe, up to Gornergrat which is a little over 10,000 feet. And YES, the air is a little thin up there. 

                          

And what's that vaguely familiar peak behind us? That would be the Matterhorn, 14,691 feet above sea level! And no, we did NOT feel compelled to do the final climb to the top of this mountain that straddles Switzerland and Italy. Although there had been numerous attempts, the first successful ascent of the Matterhirm was  made in 1865 from Zermatt by a party led by Edward Whymper but ended disastrously when four of its members fell to their deaths on the descent. There is still debate and intrigue around what truly occurred.

         

The Gorner Glacier spills down between the cliffs we see on the horizon, of which there are more than  20 peaks reaching over 13,00 feet high which you can see from Gorengratt. Not surprisingly, there's also weather and solar stations up here, many joint international projects.

                   

After fortifying with delicious fondue ( when's the last time you used long forks to skewer bread and dip it into molten cheese!) we considered justifying our lunch with a mountain bike ride down the hill, but decided the salad we shared must have neutralized at least part of our Gruyere and Emmentaler, so we opted for a short hike instead. 

        

After Steve pinched the top of the Materhorn to show how BIG a guy he really is, we were off!

  

       

We were told the top most part from Gernergrat to Rotenboden at 9,200 feet was the least steep, so of we went with confident smiles on our faces. 

                                     

What everyone forgets to mention is how slippery those rocks can be above the tree line. 

        

Steve continues, determined to find ice cream. 

                                    

I suggest snow instead of ice cream and, well, you can see Steve's enthusiastic response!

                       

I'm much more interested in finding the miniscul flowers growing between the rocks above the treeline. With temperatures that easily dip, strong winds, snow and little rainfall. It's incredible to see these bright spots of color. 

                       

Finally we get to Rotenboden. Whoever said it was an easy 45 minute hike from the top was clearly not from Boston! We met people with serious gear who'd been climbing rick face and glaciers for days. There were also families with children, even really young kiddos, hiking down, but clearly with all the right equipment. (If we do this again, we're clearly looking into collapsible hiking poles!) And still there's no ice cream! 

        

So, we are back on the cog train and heading down the hill to Zermott. Oh, and by the way, the next stretch from Rotenboden to Riffelborg is clearly easier hiking. Grass and scrub begins to appear, allowing for actual hiking trails. Next time!

        

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Once back down in Zermott, we hear the clanging of bells as the local 4-H chapter brings home the goats who have been nibbling away at the grasses on the surrounding hills. And not to worry, Steve did finally get his chocolate gelato.  

Even if you are not a skier, Zermott is one of those places you should stop by at some point in your life. And consider staying for  awhile. Tens of thousands do every year!

   

 

 

 

On our way through the Alps

We have now officially departed from the Anadeus cruise ship and are making our way into the Alps. The air is ever thinner but pure. 

The land rises around  us with towering snow covered mountains and hairpin turns.

Finally we reach charming  Interlaken. It the home of the Victorian  Jungfru hotel. Paragliders artive by the dozen with there in-tandem riders. If only we had more time!

We reach Grimsel Pass in Switzerland, crossing the Bernese Alps, at the upper valley of the Aare River. (You remember that  from Berne) At 7,100 feet above sea level, the temperature hovers in the low 50s on this sunny day so the jackets are on! The deep lakes blue color is mountain fed and reflects the sky.  The stone chapel is seen regularly throughout the alps to remember climbers and skiers who have given their lives here and provide a monent of reflection on natur's majesty for the rest of us. 

In just a few hours those charming UNESCO cities are far away, replaced by staggering natural beauty with small groups of wooden houses burnt black from the sun with thier thick slate roofs that dot the mountains along with sheep, cows and rushing milk water colored light jade green streams. 

We arrive in Zermatt - land of rock climbing and skiing. We  have certainlyleft the  Rhine Valkey!

Bern - Bicycling Anyone?

Bern is the Swiss city of Bears

As reflected in its Canton's flag, it is Switzerland's capital with a population of 140,000, or 360,000 for the larger incorporated area, and Switzerland's fourth most populous city. (There are 26 Cantons in Switzerland, each with its own flag that flies along with the Swiss flag. More on that later.) 

It is also the city where Einstein lived in a 2nd floor apartment above one of the main cobblestone streets in the old town center between 1903 and 1905, when he first developed his theory of relativity, while working as a patent examiner. Oh, and by the way the small cafe downstairs isn't bad either. 

Like most European cities with Medieval roots, Bern Minster is the cities major Cathedral. Begun in 1421, it evolved into a Gothic style, was completed in 1893 and has towers of 330 feet. It is now a Swiss Reformed Cathedral and the tallest cathedral in Switzerland. It is well known for the detailed relief of The Lad Judgement above the main door. Michael the Archangel holds his sword, with the wicked naked on the left and the righteous clothed in white on the right.   

The Medieval Zytglogge clock tower at the end of Kramgasse is from 1220 and originally defined the edge of the city. Below the clock face is an astronomical clock with moving pieces that delight when it  chimes every 15 minutes. For those with a burning curiosity, you can climb the steps to go inside the tower and see its workings. As is often the case, on the hour and noontime are  the really big shows with moving parts that reinforce a story of time passing and personal responsibility. 

The old town streets are charming and a UNESCO Heritage site since 1983. They are particularly wide and cobblestoned, punctuated with statuary fountains that boast flowers at this time of year. These bears, soldiers and notable personalities are seen hovering above stone fountains with copper pipes that jut out delivering the coldest, clearest  pure water - from the Aare River, a major contributory, on its way to the Rhine.

Karen samples the fountain's water near the clock tower and agrees that we should all get out our water bottles! 

When we were there on Juky 20th,  the city was ready to welcome a couple of hundred two wheeled international athletes. Suddenly at 1:30, everyone politely stepped away and cleared a path, chearing as they peddled, streaking through from Bern to Finhaut-Emosson (Switzerland), a mere 184.5KM distance. It was a short run for the participants - unforgettable for us and took no longer than 36 seconds - we know because Steve taped the whole thing. 

Naturally you can purchase a Tour de France "fan kit", complete with hat, shirt, water bottle and backpack, as modeled by our friends Suzy and Vic. Even without the colorful fan kit, an unforgettable experience!

Bern is ranked one of the top ten cities in the world for quality of life. That pretty much says it all. 

Strasbourg - Still Special

There is something unique immediately felt in Strasbourg, one of Europe's most attractive cities. Due to its rich architectural heritage, the entire town center, "Grande Ile," has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988 and the first to be designated as such in France.

The Alsace German French background is reflected in the homes. German timberframe homes were built between the 16th and 17th centuries. Each timber was numbered to allow them to be deconstructed, moved and rebuilt. The later change to the  stone French style traded off mobility to leesen chance of fire. 

Stork motifs can be found everywhere as can large white and black storks who tend to live atop homes and in trees of a particular neighborhood where they are fed by the community. Legend has it that if a sugar cube is placed on a windowsill a baby will soon appear. With a population of 480 thousand (52 thousand if which are medical and Pharma students), it would seem that the storks have been kept quite busy. 

The cuisine options are many and all delicious. You can easily guess Steve was drawn to the menu on the left and Karen to the right, but there are no bad food choices here. 

Notre Dame Cathedral of Strasbourg  was built between the 13th and 15th centuries in the Gothic style. The exceptional original stained glass was removed during the World War for safe keeping and the reinserted, including the spectacular rose window that is similar to the one found in Paris. The pink sandstone structure requires a team of 50 to continuously repair this delicate structure. 

The astronomical clock has not failed in hundreds of years. An example of exceptional engineering, it tracks time and days, making allowances for months of various lengths and leap year. About midway up, when the clock strikes reflecting another fifteen minutes has passed, a figure of either a baby, youth, soldier or elderly man passes by, indicating life's 4 phases. At 12:30 is when the real action happens, complete with all 12 apostles cross in front of Christ. The cathedral closes from 11:30 to 12:35, so if you want to see how a click originally installed in the mid 1300's and last updated in the mid 1800's performs this remarkable feat, then I suggest you get there early! 

Romantic Rhine - Castles Galore and Picturesque Heidelberg (repost with spell correct....grrrr!)

The Middle Rhine, from Bonn to Bingen, flows through the Rhine Gorge, which averages 430 feet from the waterline to the top of the rocks.

With no less than 40 castles and fortresses between Koblenz and Bingen, it's easy to understand why this stretch is called the Romantic Rhine and is a UNESCO Heritage Site.

Heidelberg was a particular treat. In 1944 the US dropped leaflets promising not bomb the city and their plans to live there, which they did until the US army base closed in 2013. Today people from dozens of nations live in this city of 154,000.

Heidelberg Castle's construction began in 1294 and continued through the 1700's. Although now much deteriorated, this medieval castle was the country's capital until overtaken by the French 300 years ago when the capital was moved to Mann where a Versailles-like palace was built, reflecting the influence of the French at that time. 

Victor Hugo in 1838 wrote "What times it has been through! Five hundred years long it has been victim to all that has  shaken Europe ....it has always taken up some opposition to the powerful." Still it stands in defiance of time marching on and can't help but remind you of days gone by. 

Today "Heidelberger Schloss" draws close to three million tourists annually. The main building has a unique facade and houses the worlds largest wine cask, which can hold over 58,000 gallons. Perkeo, a court jester and Herculean drinker of wine, is its eternal guardian.   

Views from the castle fortress provide a near birds' eye view of this picturesque city and its multiple bridges across the Rhine-Neckar River. The bridges were destroyed by the Germans in an unsuccessful attempt to slow the Americans from taking Heidelberg in 1945 and where the US army remained on its base until 2013.

MIT's delegation gives Heidelberg a definite thumbs up. 

 

Heidelberg has inspired many including Brahms, Schuman, Turner and Mark Twain writes of Heidelberg in his Trip Abroad - must reading for any traveler. 

Goethe at 75 is quoted as saying after finding his 29 year old love - Here was I loved and beloved - or - "Hier war ich glucklich liebend und gelebt." So, if you happen to be looking for love, maybe Heidelberg is a place to visit.