Saturday, July 16, 2016

Art and Food - Amsterdam

Besides nature, there  is little that soothes the soul like art and food. If you're spending a few days in Amsterdam, there will be plenty of both. 
Museumplein's, or Museum Square, is a lovely park area that will bring you to the best known Amsterdam museums. The Rijksmuseum, a national museum, is a must. The building's stately exterior begs you to come inside. With over a million pieces, spanning a period from 1200 to 2000, there is literally something for everyone. In 2013, it completed a ten year renovation and expansion and is now the most visited museum in the Netherlands. 
Rembrandt's The Watchmen draws huge crowds. But the latest addition of Marten and Oopjen, painted in 1632, is what's creating all the buzz. The only non royalty commissioned single portraits done by Rembrandt, this newly married couple were soon separated by Marten's untimely death and then by geography. Recently, France and Holland purchased the pair for millions of Euro with the promise that they would only be shown together and the couple never again separated. 
Naturally, there is de Hooch and Vermeer whose portrayal of intimate, simple everyday life and play with light and color still mystifies the world. (Have you watched Tim's Vermeer?)
The Japan Modern exhibit is a temporary display of art from the early 1900's, showing the combination of traditional themes combined with images of a post war Japan rebuilding and reinterpreting traditional art making techniques. 
A short walk in the park brings you to the Stedelijk, a museum of design and art. Housed in a very contemporary space, you'll find all imaginable art and artifact.
Posters remind you of the Dutch long relationship with Indonesia. There is a neon artist whose work was just shown at the 2015 Venice Biennale's Arsenale alongside oversized digital images from an American artist. 
Naturally while at the park, you'll stop at the Van Gogh Museum. The work never ceases to delight! Do yourself a favor and purchase timed entrance tickets. The lines can be amazingly long. And get a headset, the commentary is easy to follow and particularly well done. 
Lunch before venturing into the next museum is probably just the thing. Wander through the book stalls in the main part of town. Broodges are Dutch sandwiches layered with a mix of flavors  from the simple to complex. In a hurry? You can't go wrong stopping for a quick broodge. No two will ever be quite the same. 

The FOAM photography museum is not to be missed. There was a Helmut Newton show on all floors of this tall thin building along the canal, so finely curated that it promises anything here is worth seeking out. You also will want to take a look at their fantastic library and selection of books. 

 When a friend told me about a handbag museum, I was certain she was kidding. The Tassenmuseum Hendrikje houses 4,00 items dating back to the 1600's. They also have a delightful salon type cafe and a selection of extremely well made, well priced purses. (Yes I bought one.) 

Van Gogh can be found everywhere, even on murals along the canals.  Which just goes to show that there is much more art to see than just at the big museums. 

There is the museum of Tulips, cheese, buttons and traditional Dutch dress, just to name a few.  
3-D mural sized street art simply appears out of nowhere. 
You will definitely need to fortify to make the most of your time here. De Prins is a local beer and eatery with canal views, great people watching, terrific prices and everything from burgers to Risitto or maybe you just want a small plate of saucissons. You want the burger and fries.This is NOT the American version. And no, there's no catchup in sight, but these are so delicious you won't miss it. In fact, you might just decide that mayo with Dutch fries us just thing. And the burgers? Don't get me started. 

Last 4 pieces of advice. 
1. Buy an Amsterdam card that gives you free passes to most museums, discounts to virtually all others and free passage on the metro, trolley and canals. 
2. Give yourself a set amount of time in each venue. Two hours should be your max for a big museum. Pick the two items you "must" see and choose one that's completly new. If you buy a multi museum package pass, you will feel okay about popping in somewhere you've never heard of and spending 30 or 45 minutes to sample the experience and still feel you got your money's worth.
3. See what days the cruise lines arrive. Their guests usually come through before noon and can completely take over the smalller popular museums, like Van Gogh, so go later, another day or in the evening. 
4. If you plan to go to the Anne Frank museum, you REALLY do need to buy tickets one to two months in advance.

No comments: