We spent two lovely days in Zermatt, a charming German speaking ski, hiking and climbing town of 5,800 in the Swiss Alps 5,300 feet above sea level. Only accessible by train, all transportation in town is walking or electrical vehicles. Besides the pristine air and cool evenings, the summer's big draw is taking the 150 year old cog wheel train, the highest open-air railway in Europe, up to Gornergrat which is a little over 10,000 feet. And YES, the air is a little thin up there.
And what's that vaguely familiar peak behind us? That would be the Matterhorn, 14,691 feet above sea level! And no, we did NOT feel compelled to do the final climb to the top of this mountain that straddles Switzerland and Italy. Although there had been numerous attempts, the first successful ascent of the Matterhirm was made in 1865 from Zermatt by a party led by Edward Whymper but ended disastrously when four of its members fell to their deaths on the descent. There is still debate and intrigue around what truly occurred.
The Gorner Glacier spills down between the cliffs we see on the horizon, of which there are more than 20 peaks reaching over 13,00 feet high which you can see from Gorengratt. Not surprisingly, there's also weather and solar stations up here, many joint international projects.
After fortifying with delicious fondue ( when's the last time you used long forks to skewer bread and dip it into molten cheese!) we considered justifying our lunch with a mountain bike ride down the hill, but decided the salad we shared must have neutralized at least part of our Gruyere and Emmentaler, so we opted for a short hike instead.
After Steve pinched the top of the Materhorn to show how BIG a guy he really is, we were off!
We were told the top most part from Gernergrat to Rotenboden at 9,200 feet was the least steep, so of we went with confident smiles on our faces.
What everyone forgets to mention is how slippery those rocks can be above the tree line.
Steve continues, determined to find ice cream.
I suggest snow instead of ice cream and, well, you can see Steve's enthusiastic response!
I'm much more interested in finding the miniscul flowers growing between the rocks above the treeline. With temperatures that easily dip, strong winds, snow and little rainfall. It's incredible to see these bright spots of color.
Finally we get to Rotenboden. Whoever said it was an easy 45 minute hike from the top was clearly not from Boston! We met people with serious gear who'd been climbing rick face and glaciers for days. There were also families with children, even really young kiddos, hiking down, but clearly with all the right equipment. (If we do this again, we're clearly looking into collapsible hiking poles!) And still there's no ice cream!
So, we are back on the cog train and heading down the hill to Zermott. Oh, and by the way, the next stretch from Rotenboden to Riffelborg is clearly easier hiking. Grass and scrub begins to appear, allowing for actual hiking trails. Next time!
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Once back down in Zermott, we hear the clanging of bells as the local 4-H chapter brings home the goats who have been nibbling away at the grasses on the surrounding hills. And not to worry, Steve did finally get his chocolate gelato.
Even if you are not a skier, Zermott is one of those places you should stop by at some point in your life. And consider staying for awhile. Tens of thousands do every year!
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