Samarkand, Uzbekistan - Land of Salt, Snow Covered Peaks and Mosaics

   

                         

As you land in Uzbekistan's second largest city, you can't help but note how quickly the snow covered peaks vanished into very warm, dry agricultural land - known for its vegetables, tomatoes, cherries, mulberry trees and cotton.  Everything is spotlessly clean and buildings from the last century reflect what one expects from old Russian block countries. However people's appearance immediately grab you. The area seems populated from different stocks. Although nearly all have dark hair, some have distinctly Mongolian features, others are more Middle Eastern or Mediterranean. 

Indeed in the 5th century, Samarkand was the Silk Road's primary, and arguably grandest city with Soghdiana the lingua franca for virtually all trade along the route. Located halfway between China and the Mediterranean, it was situated where multiple routes from China converged into a single main thoroufare through Afghanistan, Iran and the Middle East. It was a center of entrepreneurs, education and art, full of astronomers, scholars and poets.  It's huge walled oasis gave sanctuary and water for valuable Bactrian 2-humped camels carrying up to 250 kilos 25 miles a day. As one of the lowest places on earth with a tremendous natural water source, prized salt was harvested, which for centuries was a highly valued commodity, along with silk, camels and horses. 

                          

Upon arrival we go to the private home, now museum, Kalantarov House and don traditional silk embroidered caps and Samarkand dress - long lightweight brightly colored overcoats for the ladies and shorter cotton wide sleeved jackets for the men. These walls are not mosaic, but plaster carved in situ and colored the most magnificent fairytale bright pastels you've ever seen. 

                             

The Madrassa complex contains three buildings dating back as far as the 1400's. These buildings were for secular study and included rooms for women. If you were a family of means, particularly during the Silk Road era, your children were literate and schooled. One of the primary buildings was specifically designed for the study of science. This entire complex is of incredible stature, enhanced with mosaics inside and out, carved stone screens, turquoise colored domes, colorful carved plaster vaulted ceilings and internal courtyard garden alcoves, this is an experience you won't soon forget. 

                           

In a land where skies are crystal clear blue over 330 days a year, it is no surprise that the color pallet ranges from every shade of blue to turquoise, accented with lime green and gold. The Shahi Zinda Necropolis leaves no surface, inside or out, unordained, with the exception of highly prized wooden doors. This labarynth of mosoleums date back centuries. Originally built by the wealthiest of families, many contain rooms for prayer.  April 12 was Greek Orthodox Easter and so we were accompanied by hundreds of people from the region, dressed in their best to admire the surroundings, pray, visit the contemporary cemetery in the back or simply enjoy the gardens. The women's bright embellished clothing, prized uni-brows  and gold capped teeth were strong competition to the most ornate facades you are likely to ever see!

                              

Sunday Market was not to be missed. Ubiquitous embroidered folding caps identify where men are from and are decorative women's headress, often atop a scarf, which if tied in the front indicates you are religious.  Every foodstuff imaginable can be found here. Today special easter breads and decorated eggs let you know that it is indeed Easter Sunday. 

Samarkand in Brief:

- Ancient population 130,000 vs 708,000 today

- Ancient language Soghdiana vs Tajik (related to modern Persian) today

- Ethnic Demogrphics - Tajik, Uzbeks, Russsian, Jewish and Iranian

- Religious demographics - Hinduism and Buddhism were prevalent in ancient times. Over the centuries many religions have travelled through here and some remain - including Zoroastrianism, Manichaeism, Nestorian, Judaism, Christianity and Moslem