Istanbul - "Where East Meets West" or "Sydney Without Palm Trees"

Istanbul has become one of my favorite cities. There's a bit of everything here - the atmosphere is relaxed yet engaging,  it's diversity means there is always something for everyone, waterways energize yet add tranquility while certainly making it easy to get around. And the mass transit almost makes you forget how overwhelming auto and bus traffic can be. And then there's the food - Meze, fish sandwiches, roasted meats, Asian food, deserts galore - if you can't find something delicious to eat here, then there's simply something wrong. 

We are staying on the European side of the Bosphorus with the Asian side within easy reach via ferry or the Bosphorus Bridge, which puts on a nightly show of colored lights.  To the south we see the Maiden Tower at the entrance where the Golden Horn and Sea of Marmara intersect. The constant activity on these waterways makes Sydney harbour appear bucolic. Ferries of all types provide comuters with access across these three waterways. And queuing? We could all take a lesson as literally millions make their way, often with the ubiquitous Turkish bagel - the simit - in hand. 

                       

This short visit was about exploring neighborhoods, visiting friends and local culture, since many of Istanbul's more famous sites were seen on an earlier trip. We highly recommend wandering, but come hungry - there will be lots of food to try - and wear very comfortable shoes -  the winding stone streets are many and steep! 

                         

                              

 Uskudar  is a terrific old neighborhood, a seven minute ferry ride to the Asian side. It's charming waterside masque was designed by the same architect of Istanbul's largest mosque - Suleiman the Magnificent. Wander the fish market and stop at Kanaat's, close to the ferry pier, for a terrific meal with the locals. 

               

The ferry will bring you back to the European's side neighborhood of Eminonu with all it's historic sites. After you've explored and worked up an appetite, go the base of the Galata Bridge. There are two basic options. A string of restaurants are literally under the bridge, if you choose to be inside.  Instead you can head a few hundred yards further north and grab a fish sandwich right off the boat, maybe with an ear of corn or roasted chestnuts from one of the many stands and grab a seat. But be warned - when you promise your husband a cup of fresh watermelon - your going to end up with beet juice pickled onions, cabbage and cucumber. Oops! 

Now fortified, either walk the bridge or take the tram to Karakom. This once ignored district boasts one of the cities best views from the Galta Tower. If the lines too long, keep going up the pedestrian street past numerous embassies and shopping districts devoted to everything from light bulbs to musical instruments. Now stop for one of those Turkish deserts and tea that have been calling your name. 

KEEPING WITH THE SILK ROAD THEME - some quick facts about Istanbul:

- population at the end of the 14c was 100,000 - today is 14.2 million

- Ethnic demographics - Turkish majority

- Religious demographics - 99% are Muslim Turks, two-thirds are Sunni, although moderate

- From the 4th century until the Silk Road's decline in the 14c, Constantinople eclipsed Rome as the location to which all roads led and was, in fact, the capital of both the Roman and Byzantine empires from 330-1453. Eventually this Chritian epicenter was turned into the Islamic capital of the Ottoman Empire. Constantinople was renamed Istanbul in 1923 under the modern Republic Turkey.