How to Purchase Livestock in Kashgar - Bagels Served

                         

Kashgar's livestock market has been here for over two-thousand years. There are countless interesting faces and subtleties of dress that identify origin. Most animals are recognizable, but take a careful look at those never-before-seen "fat bottomed sheep" in the picture above - oh yeah!

For decades this market spanned three days, attracting people coming from Pakistan, Afghanistan and current day Kirghizistan and Tajikistan. Although  now limited to Sunday, little else has changed. People still come from far and wide to trade sheep, donkeys, asses, goats, horses and camels. Older animals, including camels are sold for meat, or slaughtered while you wait - very convenient. 

Need your sheep shorn? No problem. Sheep are straddled and regular everyday scissors  appear to slowly remove the winter's wool. Wondering how fast a horse moves? A designated rider spends the day demonstrating speed as he gallops the markets width. Harnesses, bells, you name it - if it's for livestock, this is the place to be. 

Whether barter or cash, an intermediary is always required, a throw back to a time when a translator was almost always needed because of how far people travelled to do business here.  Livestock exchange is a 4-step process - as documented below by Steve. We all know what a process guy he is!

                                          

                          

                         

Oh, there's also lots of food, including bagels - sesame only. Who knew? We also recommend the hand pulled noodles with lots of fresh local ingredients. Although it's suggested to avoid "street food", how can you resist when it looks and smells so good? Karen's theory is give it a try - you only live once and besides introducing something foreign might just build up your immune system. Besides, the locals give you a big thumbs up when you sample what their eating. 

         

In spite of receiving virtually no annual rainfall, underground rivers and snow melt allows Kashgar to be known for its cotton and as the land of fruit, where peaches, pears, grapes, pomegranates and almonds dominate. And of course there is many forms of animal husbandry. So if you find yourself in Xinjiang, China's far west Uigur Autonomous Region, along the Takla Markan Desert at the foot of the Pamirs, where the Karakoram Range and the Tibet Nagimeet meet, then stop by.

If you go several miles away to the main town of Kashgar you'll be enchanted by the old town. Shops, dental offices, food stands (try the fresh finely chopped goat stuffed tandoori dumplings), ornately painted wooden rocking baby cradles and electric motor scooters wind their way up to the simple, yet beautiful yellow Id Kah Mosque - "place of happiness" - built in 1442.  This Moslem enclave seems to have escaped the aggressive Cinese influx until you notice Chinese appearing armed guards separating small groups of pedestrians, as well as the Chinese Han line dancing to loud music in front of the masque as mid-afternoon prayer ends. The "Han" writing is clearly on the wall.

Kashgar in Brief:

- Population - 35,000 during ancient times vs 4-million today

- Ethnic demographics - 31 Ethnic groups live in Kashgar, dominated by 75%   Uyghur Moslem population 

- Religious demographics - Buddhism was poplar during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), but after being conquered by the people of Turkic dissent, Islam gradually became the main religion

- Silk Road Significance - Kashgar was historically a trading center - westward to Europe via the Fergana Valley of present day Uzbekistan, as well as routes going south to the Kashmir region and north to Urunqi. 

Turpan - Rediscovered Ancient Cities - never too late to post......

       

After miles of wind farms and desert, you turn into what looks like a blank ochre and blue skied canvas of packed sand. Welcome to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Jiaohr, or "river junction". Indeed a river does split and surround both sides of this 30 meter high plateau. Finding yourself in Xinjiang, China's far southwest Uigur Autonomous Region along the Takla Markan Desert at the foot of the Pamirs where the Karakoram Range and the Tibet Nagimeet meet might seem like quite a stretch, but it offers a truly unique experience.  This 30 meter high plateau city was primarily carved down into the land. It once boasted  20,000 inhabitants and 2,000 soldiers, principally around the 6-10 CE, Tang Dynasty. Below ground structures evidence buildings for banking, with multi wall protected safes, sophisticated homes,  shops,mescape routes for royalty and above ground buildings of worship for Buddhist, Zoroastrian and other ancient faiths. 

           

Although inhabited from 200 BCE to 1200CE, it eventually fell to Ghangis Khan's conquering Mongols in the 13c CE.  As often was the case, the Mongols came, plundered and moved on, all but obliterating this city that had raised huge income for its royal municipality from passing traders, who would have required papers and sizable fees for entering such a sophisticated Silk Road metropolis  with multiple water sources. Even though it was located in the desert, its natural materials would have kept one cool in the summer and warm in the chilly desert evenings. 

The Bezeklikik Thousand Budha Caves are your next stop while in the area. No photos are allowed in these grottos located in the Mutou Valley of the Flaming Mountains. Carved into a mountains and decorated multiple times between 400-1300CE, the painted images depict Budha amongst daily life. BAs a critical Silk Road crossroad and pilgrimage site,  the area underwent many changes of rule, invasion and migration, resulting in a melting pot of imagery. A reclining Buddha covers three walks, surrounded by Cauacasuan, Mongoloid, Hindu, Uighur and South Asians. In early days, much of the artwork had been defaced by Muslim invaders. However it was the German Vin Lecoq who chiseled out and took to Germany the best of what was to be found in the 1900's. Still, seeing what remains is a dramatic reminder of the culture, history and role of religion over a behind of nearly century. It's a road worth taking 

Urumqi - Land of Quiger

                                   

As we travel further west, still along the Gobi Desert and it's southern mountains, there's no doubt that Urumqi, part of the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, has a distinctly different heritage. The "regional minority" Uyghur people's light skin, warm hair and varied eye color reflect their Turkic-Persian  background. Virtually all are moderate Moslem, with varying levels of practice. Many men wear the embroidered rectangular caps we've been seeing, but women's clothing runs the gamut from western to local bright ikat weaves, sometimes with scarves as head coverings, but generally not.  Uyghur's have a strong attachment to their cultures long history and practices that embraces Muslim faith, peace, charity, education, music and dance

We thoroughly enjoyed the main bazzar in the primarily Quiger Moslem area with its incredible collection of fabrics, instruments, metal work and jade right next to the cities main mosque. 

                                          

But what you quickly realize is that this long, thin densely populated city is in rapid transition as the result of the forced introduction of a couple of million Han Chinese. With the Han has come the infusion of billions in capital by the Chinese government. Large luxury malls and countless highrise apartments have been built to attract the Han from other Chinese provinces.  Over the last decade, virtually all signage replaced Quiger Arabic script with Chinese characters, even on local transportation, making it difficult for many people to get around. Mandarin has legally become the common language and whereas a decade ago one could choose the Uyghur's Turkic or Mandarin based schools, now all are education is in Mandarin. The Uyghur however, still maintain two clocks - "Chinese time" which is the time in Beijing time that all of China uses regardless of time zone and "Uyghur time" which is two hours earlier.

Less than two decades ago, the Chinese promised that no more than 10% of Han would be introduced into Urumqi or any autonomous minority region.  Now they make up 75% of Urumqi's population. Han are offered job training and housing upon arrival. In Urumqi, Uighur are rapidly being marginalized in terms of language, the rewriting of history, access to employment and housing. They are essentially enduring ethnic genocide, ensuring greater Chinese access to water and mineral rights.

In the meantime, the development is dizzying and traffic is legendary. Army security and presence is prevalent. When you see armed guards around the main mosque, it's uncertain if it's to keep people in or out. It's realistic to say that in another decade Urumqi will simply look  like another Chinese Han city.

There are about a dozen other regional minorities in Xinjiang Province, most of living outside of Urumqi.  Many share in the Uyghur Turkic heritage, along with Mongolia, Tibet and other nations. 

Come here before the Uyghur all but vanish from this city, along with their intriguing culture. 

Urumqi in Brief:

- Unknown ancient population and 3.5 million today

- Ethnic demographics - majority Han 

- Religious demographics - Han 75% Uyghur 13%, Hui 8%, Kazakhs 2%, Others 2%

- Silk Road significance - Still a major industrial center within Xinjiang Provence, Urumqi was a major hub on the SilkRoad during China's Tang Dynasty and developed its reputation as a leadin cultural and commercial center during the Qing Dynasty.       

Sunrise Camel Ride in Dunhuang's Whispering Mountains

                         

5:30 comes very early, particularly in a country that remains in one time, no matter how far you are from Beijing. Here we are bundled up against the 45 degree outdoor early morning temperature and donned with yellow sand boot covers. 

                           

After a couple of miles on our Bactrian 2-humped camels, we make our way to the Resounding Sandune's mountain oasis.  When you climb to the top of the dune, you discover one side is soft, burying your legs knee deep, while the other is as firm as stone. The reward, an amazing breakfast worth getting up before first light. 

Dunhuang in Brief:

- Named Shazhou in ancient times

- 50,000 to 100,000 Ancient population and 190,00 today

- Ethnic demographics - Msjority Han Chinese

- Religious demographics -  for centuries Dunhuang was the center  Budddhism in China.  Today, various religions can be found here. 

 

Dunhuang - Land of Towering Sand Dunes, Caves and Grapes

                         

Nearly an hour before landing in Dunhuang the landscape below turns to sand - towering peaks covered with snow, sand dunes that can reach 100-200 meters, sand twisting up tornado like, vast flat planes - endless miles accross the Taklimakan, China's largest, driest desert. There's nothing that prepares  you to see the world's largest shifting sand desert, which fills the Tarim Basin, located between the Tibetan Plateau to the south and Tian Shan (Celestial Mountains) to the north. Even more mind boggling is to realize that there was a time when people crossed through this area as part of their Silk Road travels on Bacterian camel and Asian wild ass, even though it's never been useable as farmland of any type for humans - a frightening proposition if you miss the occasional oasis created by the freshwater springs fed by snowmelt or the Tarim River flowing from west to east through the basin 

                        

With its numerous underground rivers fed by the far away glaciers and melting snow, Dunhuang, part of the Gansu Province, is a mix of desert and fertile agricultural land which relies primarily on irrigation, not rain. Stands of trees hold back the shifting sand and threats from inevitable sandstorms. Peaches and almond trees light up the landscape with their white blossoms. Endless miles of grapevines are waiting to leaf along strong arched wooden structures and will eventually become one of the many varieties of raisins this region is known for. 

               

                       

The Magao Caves had their beginning in 366CE with  the monk, Heng Dao's desire to increase the region's awareness of a then increasingly popular religion called Buddhism. Between the late 4th to mid 8th centuries CE, over one thousand caves were carved out of this cliff-face. Some for reflection and worship, while others were residents of monks and passing pilgrims. All are entirely covered with painting into plaster, occasionally embellished with gold leaf. One-thousand-Buddha ceilings flow into fully painted walls often depicting the sutras as well as images of the many nationalities that passed through here and the local wealthy patrons who lived in the nearby metropolis. Over time some were plastered over and repainted until as late as the 14th century CE. 

                         

Some of the Magao caves reveal incredible statuary showing Buddha in various postures. Here an enormous Buddha reclines, while another reaches high above to a cave opening and would have been seen from very far away. Stupas in the immediate area would have been gilded and covered with silk, holding Buddhist relics and manuscripts on palm leaves and later on birch bark.  

Awareness of these caves disappeared as this part of the Silk Road fell into disuse. A small community of people remained in the area. In 1906, Aurel Stein heard about these caves. He negotiated with the Buddhist abott Wong for access. A home for the abbott appeared and many valuable sutra manuscripts disappeared to England from an anti chamber that was identified by its earthquake caused cracks in a cave's repaired wall.

                                    

These Apsara fly like angels with the ravens. They figure prominently in Chinese Buddhist beliefs and are seen here. Images of these popular creatures are frequently found in homes and statuary in this area. 

         

 Although not exactly in one's backyard, the Magao Caves are an amazon UNESCO World Heritage site, worthy of a visit. If in the area, go to Yangguan Pass, which Chinese legend says was cut through the Flaming Mountians by a magical monkey in order to bring Buddhism's sutras to China. Virtually all Chinese know the story of the jade emperor and the magical monkey's adventures. 

Dunhuang in Brief:

- Named Shazhou in ancient times

- 50,000 to 100,000 ancient population and 190,000 today

- Ethnic demographics - Majority Han Chinese

- Religious demographics -  for centuries Dunhuang was the center Buddhism in China.  Today, various religions can be found here. 

- Dunhuang was an important city on the Silk Road as the hub of highway communication in the northwestern Chinese plateau. For the two Hans to Southern and Northern Dynasties, Dunhuang was the thoroughfare between the middle and western parts of China. 

Xian then - Xian now

                       

Much of early Xian's art reflected everyday life. Acrobats and jugglers entertain royalty and merchants alike. Arabian horses are the preferred luxury mode of transportation. A camel from 630CE is encouraged to rise, but would only have been used to transport goods, being too valuable to carry this or any rider who would have been on donkey, horse or foot.

                         

Xian's famous 300 foot tall Bell Tower was built in 1384, marking the geographical center of the city  and seen here on the upper left.  It is the largest and best maintained of its kind in China. Today, traffic circles the tower like a giant rotary. Four roads emanate to compass point gates with moats, towers and 40 foot high walls. The highly decorative pagoda topping the gate wall towers over the street below. We were greeted upon arrival by period dressed guards and local royalty at Yongning, the southern "gate of eternal peace" seen here on the lower left and then spent the evening watching this river transversing modern city begin to glow as the sun went down. 

Had we arrived during the Silk Road period, passports with letters of introduction would have been required and an entrance toll paid. When it comes to travel and supporting the local municipality, some things haven't changed. 

If you come to Xian today expect a large modern city. Of course you'll take the trip to see the Terracota Army and possibly the Great Wall. We'd also strongly suggest you go to the bustling Moslem quarter to stroll and sample the food, particularly the kabobs with pomegranate juice on the side. Visit its mosque, which looks oddly pagoda like and although the people look somewhat Mongolian Chinese, their dress will remind you that this is not a Budhist population. The mosque and its gardens are a piece of absolute tranquility in a bustling city. 

Xian in Brief:

- Formerly Chang'an and then Chian, this 1st ancient Imperial Capital is now called Xian

- Ancient population 120,000 vs 8 million today

- Religious demographics - Budhism and Islam, followed by Confucianism, Taoism and Lamaism

- Silk Road Significance - as the Ancient Capital, beginning in 210BCE and the most eastern land departure and terminus point, this was a hub of diverse ethnic identities and religious beliefs. This confluence brought the city vast material wealth as well as religious and cultural melting for over 1,000 years. 

     

Chang'an - The Silk Road's Most Eastern Terminus - or Starting Point

Qin Shi Huang Di was the young vissionary ruler who established Chang'an, the city of eternal peace, in 221BCE, a name well deserved upon conquering and bringing together the 7 states of what we think of as eastern China and who had been battling since 476BCE.  By naming himself emperor instead of king, he established the title for a unified China. Walls that had been built to protect these states were joined and extended north to protect against the region's enemies.   Before  his death in 210BCE, Qin unified the area by introducing standardized language and writing, roads, irrigation, weights, measures and currency - the circular coin with cut out "Middle Kingdom" square. But far from benevolent, this first emperor of China centralized power to maintain control and create a huge peasant workforce. He destroyed evidence of previous rulers by burning books that referenced their accomplishments. He forced nearly 2 million - a full 10% of his subjects - along with innumerable captured foreigners to connect China's famous wall while also expanding it north to further protect from the region's enemies. 

Qin Shi Huang Di may be best known in the west for the terracotta army he had built to join him and 100 of his concubines upon his death in his mausoleum.  Each of the six-thousand warriors are different in appearance and would have been brightly painted. Facing west to protect against his enemies, they were set up as like a Romam army with the vanguard, foot soldiers, charioteers  and additional ranks with horses and actual weapons covering an area equivalent to approximately eight football fields. 

But like many countries who build their military forces too quickly, creating this well fitted out army nearly bankrupt the new empire. After Qin's death in 210BCE, his weaker son Qin Er Shi went to war with Chang'an's actual army. They raided the tomb to obtain weapons that would have been held by many of the terracotta warriors. 

 Over centuries, the wooden beams of this resting place collapsed and the retaining walls filled in the land, hiding this mausoleum until it's inadvertent discovery by farmers digging a well in 1974.  Work continues on this project, which former French president Jacques Chirac called the eight wonder of the world - which in fact it may very well be. 

Although Quin Shi Huang's son was killed in 206BCE, the Qin Dynasty (221-206BCE) was China's 1st Imperial Dynasty to be replaced by the Han Dynasty which lasted from 206BCE - 220CE. And as importantly, the Chang'an region continued to  act as an essential Silk Road crossroad for people from Central Asia, the Middle East and this newly evolving empire - and held that distinction for over 1,000 years. 

Samarkand, Uzbekistan - Land of Salt, Snow Covered Peaks and Mosaics

   

                         

As you land in Uzbekistan's second largest city, you can't help but note how quickly the snow covered peaks vanished into very warm, dry agricultural land - known for its vegetables, tomatoes, cherries, mulberry trees and cotton.  Everything is spotlessly clean and buildings from the last century reflect what one expects from old Russian block countries. However people's appearance immediately grab you. The area seems populated from different stocks. Although nearly all have dark hair, some have distinctly Mongolian features, others are more Middle Eastern or Mediterranean. 

Indeed in the 5th century, Samarkand was the Silk Road's primary, and arguably grandest city with Soghdiana the lingua franca for virtually all trade along the route. Located halfway between China and the Mediterranean, it was situated where multiple routes from China converged into a single main thoroufare through Afghanistan, Iran and the Middle East. It was a center of entrepreneurs, education and art, full of astronomers, scholars and poets.  It's huge walled oasis gave sanctuary and water for valuable Bactrian 2-humped camels carrying up to 250 kilos 25 miles a day. As one of the lowest places on earth with a tremendous natural water source, prized salt was harvested, which for centuries was a highly valued commodity, along with silk, camels and horses. 

                          

Upon arrival we go to the private home, now museum, Kalantarov House and don traditional silk embroidered caps and Samarkand dress - long lightweight brightly colored overcoats for the ladies and shorter cotton wide sleeved jackets for the men. These walls are not mosaic, but plaster carved in situ and colored the most magnificent fairytale bright pastels you've ever seen. 

                             

The Madrassa complex contains three buildings dating back as far as the 1400's. These buildings were for secular study and included rooms for women. If you were a family of means, particularly during the Silk Road era, your children were literate and schooled. One of the primary buildings was specifically designed for the study of science. This entire complex is of incredible stature, enhanced with mosaics inside and out, carved stone screens, turquoise colored domes, colorful carved plaster vaulted ceilings and internal courtyard garden alcoves, this is an experience you won't soon forget. 

                           

In a land where skies are crystal clear blue over 330 days a year, it is no surprise that the color pallet ranges from every shade of blue to turquoise, accented with lime green and gold. The Shahi Zinda Necropolis leaves no surface, inside or out, unordained, with the exception of highly prized wooden doors. This labarynth of mosoleums date back centuries. Originally built by the wealthiest of families, many contain rooms for prayer.  April 12 was Greek Orthodox Easter and so we were accompanied by hundreds of people from the region, dressed in their best to admire the surroundings, pray, visit the contemporary cemetery in the back or simply enjoy the gardens. The women's bright embellished clothing, prized uni-brows  and gold capped teeth were strong competition to the most ornate facades you are likely to ever see!

                              

Sunday Market was not to be missed. Ubiquitous embroidered folding caps identify where men are from and are decorative women's headress, often atop a scarf, which if tied in the front indicates you are religious.  Every foodstuff imaginable can be found here. Today special easter breads and decorated eggs let you know that it is indeed Easter Sunday. 

Samarkand in Brief:

- Ancient population 130,000 vs 708,000 today

- Ancient language Soghdiana vs Tajik (related to modern Persian) today

- Ethnic Demogrphics - Tajik, Uzbeks, Russsian, Jewish and Iranian

- Religious demographics - Hinduism and Buddhism were prevalent in ancient times. Over the centuries many religions have travelled through here and some remain - including Zoroastrianism, Manichaeism, Nestorian, Judaism, Christianity and Moslem

    

     

   

Istanbul - "Where East Meets West" or "Sydney Without Palm Trees"

Istanbul has become one of my favorite cities. There's a bit of everything here - the atmosphere is relaxed yet engaging,  it's diversity means there is always something for everyone, waterways energize yet add tranquility while certainly making it easy to get around. And the mass transit almost makes you forget how overwhelming auto and bus traffic can be. And then there's the food - Meze, fish sandwiches, roasted meats, Asian food, deserts galore - if you can't find something delicious to eat here, then there's simply something wrong. 

We are staying on the European side of the Bosphorus with the Asian side within easy reach via ferry or the Bosphorus Bridge, which puts on a nightly show of colored lights.  To the south we see the Maiden Tower at the entrance where the Golden Horn and Sea of Marmara intersect. The constant activity on these waterways makes Sydney harbour appear bucolic. Ferries of all types provide comuters with access across these three waterways. And queuing? We could all take a lesson as literally millions make their way, often with the ubiquitous Turkish bagel - the simit - in hand. 

                       

This short visit was about exploring neighborhoods, visiting friends and local culture, since many of Istanbul's more famous sites were seen on an earlier trip. We highly recommend wandering, but come hungry - there will be lots of food to try - and wear very comfortable shoes -  the winding stone streets are many and steep! 

                         

                              

 Uskudar  is a terrific old neighborhood, a seven minute ferry ride to the Asian side. It's charming waterside masque was designed by the same architect of Istanbul's largest mosque - Suleiman the Magnificent. Wander the fish market and stop at Kanaat's, close to the ferry pier, for a terrific meal with the locals. 

               

The ferry will bring you back to the European's side neighborhood of Eminonu with all it's historic sites. After you've explored and worked up an appetite, go the base of the Galata Bridge. There are two basic options. A string of restaurants are literally under the bridge, if you choose to be inside.  Instead you can head a few hundred yards further north and grab a fish sandwich right off the boat, maybe with an ear of corn or roasted chestnuts from one of the many stands and grab a seat. But be warned - when you promise your husband a cup of fresh watermelon - your going to end up with beet juice pickled onions, cabbage and cucumber. Oops! 

Now fortified, either walk the bridge or take the tram to Karakom. This once ignored district boasts one of the cities best views from the Galta Tower. If the lines too long, keep going up the pedestrian street past numerous embassies and shopping districts devoted to everything from light bulbs to musical instruments. Now stop for one of those Turkish deserts and tea that have been calling your name. 

KEEPING WITH THE SILK ROAD THEME - some quick facts about Istanbul:

- population at the end of the 14c was 100,000 - today is 14.2 million

- Ethnic demographics - Turkish majority

- Religious demographics - 99% are Muslim Turks, two-thirds are Sunni, although moderate

- From the 4th century until the Silk Road's decline in the 14c, Constantinople eclipsed Rome as the location to which all roads led and was, in fact, the capital of both the Roman and Byzantine empires from 330-1453. Eventually this Chritian epicenter was turned into the Islamic capital of the Ottoman Empire. Constantinople was renamed Istanbul in 1923 under the modern Republic Turkey.  

       

Silk Road - the Northern Route

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To many, the name "Marco Polo," defines The Silk Road.  This may be more true than not. There are those who believe that Marco Polo is actually an amalgamation of many who traveled these lands. The Silk Road itself was actually a multitude of paths that connected the west and east from the second century BC to the 14th century AD. More impactful than simply the trading of goods, this movement of people meant the spread of technology, ideas and religion. Some of its major cities continue to be today's pivot points, while others have fallen off the global radar, staying much unchanged, preserving ancient architecture and allowing for a glimpse into a lifestyle long since vanished in much of the world. 

The red lines on this map indicate the path we will take over the next 12 days. Follow along, although it is yet to be seen how much technology will support our efforts to stay in touch. In fact, in the spirit of many of its travelers, maybe it's a place to simply get lost in the experience.