Cambodia - Food Reflects History

The food found in any country gives insight into both its soul and its history. Cambodia is no exception. Its cuisine is a delightful mix of Indian, Thai, Vietnamese with hints of Chinese and French overlaid with inherent Khmer. The result is a cuisine you can't quite put your finger on, with layers of flavors and something for everyone. In an attempt to get closer to its soul you read a little history and take a cooking class with Cambodia-Cooking-Class.com.

Your morning begins with a trip to the outdoor market. Aisle upon aisle with stalls for every fruit, vegetable, still-moving-fish, meat, herb and any spice you can think of  - and other items  far beyond the reaches of your imagination. Costco has nothing on the Phasar Kandal!

                            

Then you join 10 other curious foodies from all over the globe on an open air rooftop kitchen. You peel potatoe flour pancakes, shred taro, chop and pound with a wooden mortar and pestle until you think you can pound no more, yet more pounding is required. 

                               

You learn about a long list of flavorful plants and how to layer salt with sugar, chillies and clear fish sauce. Adjusting chilie heat isn't nearly as difficult as you think - if you just grasp the seeds in combination with salt and sugar equation. You form vegetable logs to stuff your spring rolls, but wait, there are rolling tricks too! And who knew 30 rolls could fit in one shallow oil filled wok, gently cooking for nearly 30 minutes. Did I mention there's no AC? 

                                   

Ah - and then there is the payoff.  Spring rolls, banana flower and shrimp salad, beef with long beans,  fish curry steamed in banana leaf cups that your group has made and finally mangoe toasted coconut topped with sticky rice drizzled with carmelized palm sugar and toasted sesame. Clearly this is NOT going to be a low calorie trip! But the layers of flavors keep you guessing and will more than make up for the inevitable loosening of one's belt.   

We can taste the history and begin to understand what might appear simple, yet is the deeply layered complexity of Cambodia. 

  

       

Balloon Fest - Bucket List

For decades I've dreamt of owning a hot air balloon. Having gone up every chance offered, from Arizona to Myanmar, it's always a thrill. 

Our wonderful friend's, the Stockers, live in Corrales, just on the edge of Albaquwrque. Every October the area hosts an international balloon festival. A perfect opportunity - a week of balloons night and day.

The fairgrounds host every unhealthy local food imaginable. Corn dogs anyone?  Pins, hats and paraphernalia galore. As night falls, the special "night glow" festival  sees emorphius shapes take form, rising to vertical positions and "glowing" as the propane heats air to complete the inflation. When completed - it's time for fireworks. 

The next morning it's coffee at 7 and there are the gentle roar of fans in the next field next door. Coffee in hand, we go to investigate. Dozens of balloons inflated there, joining hundreds more in the sky. 

Afterwards a drive to Cuba - the landlocked one in New Mexico. Retro signs, expansive landscapes - wonderfully typical southwest. 

And then there's old town Albaquwrque. Adobe buildings and individual artisans  surrounding the town square would remind you of Santa Fe 25 years ago. 

Add a Mariachi Band and a local Mexican  dance school - and you'll have a day that's unforgettable.  

A week around balloons only inflated my interest. 30 hours of flying time to be licensed - I could do that.  Easy! Now there's only the balloon, the basket, truck and chase team. Ok - one step at a time and maybe another visit next year.      

Re2pect

It's a little more than a week since Derek Jeeter made his last Fenway appearance as a Yankee. 

Number 2 has had a multi decade career with the Yankees, always playing the same position. No matter what you think of him, (remember we ARE Sox fans), you have to congratulate him on his professionalism and a scandal-less career. And EVERYONE at Fenway did. September 28 was Jeeter Day. Although about a third if the stadium had likely come from NYC, everyone stood, cheered and gave this player the Re2pect he deserved and few others have earned. 

Through the eyes of a Dane

Anders is one of Karen's most longtime friends. When he asked to come from Denmark to visit the US for the first time, naturally the answer was "of course", but how to decide what to do in less than two weeks? 

Landing in NYC, the whirlwind included Times Square, the Met, Guggenheim, Grand Central Station and the 9/11 Memorial. Then wandering along Battery Park to see the Statue of Liberty was about all we had time for before visiting Karen's mom and brother Chris.   (Touring NYC with Karen is a fast paced affair, guaranteed to cure jet lag!)

A sailor and educator  about life in the 1800's made stops in boat building Mystic Connecticut and whaling Nantucket mandatory. They didn't disappoint. 

Not to be missed - Sturbridge Village. It reminded them both of where they'd met in Denmark and the years Karen had spent at Lejre, working as an 1800's weaver while illustrating books for the center. 

And while in the neighborhood, why not try out the local "hipster" BBQ joint. Sorry, no open faced sandwiches and liverpostej here!

Finally, here in Boston and it's Steve's turn. So where might you guess we headed? After a visit to Harvard Museum's  glass flowers - it's off to Fenway. 

Remarkably, not only did our Danish friend learn the essential  rules under Steve's tutelage, he insisted on watching games on TV during the week. Steve felt validated!

Then we were off to Maine. Lighthouses, rugged coasts, lobsters, sunsets, warm

days and cool nights. You know the drill. There's nothing like it - particularly for a Dane with the sea in his DNA. 

Back in Boston, there's whale watching, Walden Pond, Concord,  the MFA, Freedom Trail, Italian delights from the north end  and just hanging out watching the boats sail the Charles. Oh, and a traditional diner for a dose of comfort food. With huge omlettes, home fries, people sitting at the counter with chatty waitresses, well this certainly isn't Denmark! 

It may not have been the most balanced view of the US, but it's a big country and you have to start somewhere. We're certain our Dane has thousands of images dancing in his head and may still be catching up on the rest he didn't get while here on his vacation. PS - the request has already come in to inquire about renting a sailboat in Maine for a month - one of these days!  

Napa Without Wine

Impossible! What would be the point?

Well there are those, believe it or not, who don't live for the new harvest and this year's wine rating. And, if your reading this, then you already know that includes Mr. Steve. Still, it's a beautiful corner of the world and we had the opportunity in late August to share it with a group of McKinsey friends. So we decided to investigate beyond the vineyards.  

First - get a convertible. You might have done that anyway - but taking the scenic route and spotting small signs is going to be key. 

Then the adventure is yours. We say go the gamut - from weird to wonderful. 

Confess - you didn't know that the workd's largest petrified forest was right here in Napa. Coastal redwoods fell like matchsticks in the direction of the lava flow from Mt St Helen a mere 7 miles away. Over several million years, water seeped through dust and ash. Cell by cell wood is transformed into solid silica, quartz and stone. Voila - petrified wood!

   

First discovered in 1870 by Charles "Petrified" Evans, the forest was visited by many. Robert Lewis Stevenson was among the frequent guests and has a tree named after him, which he wrote about in "Silverado Squatters."  Note the red trunked Manzanita trees - not petrified, but a colorful bonus. 

Next - the Old Faithful Geyser of California is a mystery of nature, which captivates the imagination AND has been written about in National Geographic. 

However, it only erupts about every 30 minutes, so bring a book and relax in the outdoor covered area. You might also investigate the "steam well." Built in the 1930's, it's 150 degree vapors boil eggs and can cook a pig. (Hey, that's what the sign says!)

The culinary delights and wonderful vistas are endless. We suggest the Culinary Institure of America, for the cooking store alone. Auberge's cliffside, outdoor deck's view is a perfect place for a midday break. Long Meadow Farmstand represents the Napa you dreamt of - and is owned, ongvwith the Ranch, by old friends. 

Bouchon Bakery is  the perfect stop to provision for your drive back to San Fran. You'll delight in whatever you find and be fortified while making notes about where you're going to stop next time your in the wine country. 

Surprise at White Sulphur Springs, WV

     

We've written before about the Greenbriar in White Sulphur Springs, WV. It's a place we've stayed every other year as an extension to a business meeting of Steve's.  This was our last meeting and it caused us to wonder if we'd be back for a visit on our own.

The Greenbriar history begins in the 1850's, when it was called The Old White.  For us it's always held the charm of the old south and, well, a racial divide that's less charming. It's a place that has both evolved and is stuck in time. 

There's plenty of options to be found on over 6,700 acres with more than 700 rooms in a mix of residential buildings as well as the immense  main white columned structure. Don't let the simple exterior fool you. The interior is a riot of patterned color made famous by Dorothy Draper and prototypical of what we think of today as typically southern decor. Let's just say  that without Dorothy, there would never have been a Lilly Pulitzer. 

There is every imaginable diversion here from renowned spa and fitness to horseback riding, skeet shooting, fly fishing, tennis (indoor & out), pools, bowling, croquet and even shuffleboard. Kyacking and rafting are close by and hiking through the property up to 3,000 feet provides amazing views. Did we mention the new, understated casino? Shopping, galleries and an artist colony offer diversion, along with cooking demos and multiple restaurants to tempt  - or send you back to the gym. 

Did we mention golf?  There are three courses, including the oldest in the PGA tour. And yes, that's us. Steve found his glove and dusted off his golf shoes. Me - well the last time I played 9 holes was over 2 days in Fiji three years ago. And before that? Probably a decade. But we did 8 holes together, only lost a couple of balls in the water and had a terrific time. 

Always looking for a place that might satisfy the ever expanding interests of our grandchildren and their parents - and at only 2-1/2 hours from DC - who knows? Maybe this southern charmer is just the ticket. 

Seoul - from Kimchi to Candy-apples

Traveling further west - we are visiting Seoul in South Korea. At about 39,000 square miles, South Korea would easily fit between Los Angeles and San Francisco. The nation's population is 50-million, but half live in Seoul, making this city and it's catchment area far larger than any American city.  Mid-August and Independence Day week means we are being spared the crowds, but it still doesn't seem that traffic here could compare with NYC, the LI Expressway or traveling to The Cape. There is a very modern, ever growing subway system that seems to do an amazing job.  

                                        

Architecture is very modern and prominently seen in extremely tall buildings. Shopping is clearly a serious pastime, with large above and underground shopping centers and multi-storied department stores sprinkled throughout the city. Frequently seen groups of brightly colored, tethered toddlers is evidence that you can never begin too young. Besides an endless selection of clothing and jewelry there are incredible food departments to be found. Think Dean and DeLuca on steroids. Besides prepared foods, there are incredible displays of flowers. Vegetables are beautifully arranged. Lettuce is fanned out and selected leaf by  leaf. Fruit arrangements appear like pieces of art - whether bagged in pyramids or carefully cupped individually in a plastic nest - almost too beautiful to eat. Naturally there is a wide variety of kimchi, but if you would prefer macaroons or candy-apples, they are there for the taking. 

                                         

Large  Buddhist  temple complexes are an oasis amid urban life. Bongeunsa is close by to where we are staying, south of the Han River. The tall white standing Buddha is its icon. Thousands of white paper lanterns have attached prayers and can be seen blanketing the inside of various shrines or cutting white paper streams up the hilly terrain. 

                

Monks play music, lead prayers and conduct funeral services inside brightly painted wooden buildings that remind us of Bhutan. Shoes are left outside as worshipers select a cushion and enter for prayer. Guests are respectfully welcome to join, although the level of activity at the complex makes this somehow feel inappropriate. Maybe we will return and enter at a quiter moment.

Eugene - the Next Chapter

Always our favorite place to travel, we've just spent a wonderful weekend visiting Erin, Jeremy, Clara and Evie at their new home! They've left downtown Eugene for 10 acres in a more rural area in Oregon's renowned wine country. Although within reach of town; horses, cows, sheep and pastures prevail along with acres of forestland. 

               

Plans are still evolving, but the chicks and bunnies have arrived. (This chick roosting on Evie is now about two months old and ten times the size.). Goats and sheep may be next, to help keep the property tamed. A small raised garden is a place holder for a much larger area for vegetables and flowers and eventually a fruit orchard.

                                   

We should have taken lots of pictures to share, but were  too busy exploring the property, Steve (yes Steve) helping  to finish the chicken coop, going to the local children's outdoor theatre, swimming and an adults only night out at a local vineyard for wine tasting, food and music. 

                                     

The girls have clearly embraced their new home. It's hard to imagine them anywhere else. We are so pleased for the whole family and can't wait for our next visit. 

Maine - 228 vs 3,478

A picture describes it all. 

Maine's general coastline is 228 miles long. However, it's tidal shoreline, which measures where the tide meets the shore, is whopping 3,478 miles - and this doesn't include the circumferences of it's many islands. With the exception of Alaska, Maine wins as having longest tidal shoreline in the US. Add in a tidal range that can rise and fall as much as 20 feet - YES that happens twice a day - and life can get really interesting!

Maine Cruising

There's little in the world that compares to coastal Maine. Where Mystic, CT and Newport, RI may boast centers of early commerce and wealth, coastal Maine has an uncountable number of charming towns, which have changed little in a hundred years or more. These quintessential locals often boast a lighthouse protected  harbor, white  Victorian homes with bright flower filled gardens and a view of rich, dark green hills tumbling down to the sea filled with mostly modest sized, and often "working", vessels. 

Much of Maine's coast runs east to west, thus the term "down east".  The coastline is punctuated with rivers, which can run 30 or more miles deep into the coast and several miles wide. Add in maneuvering around lobster pots, and countless islands,  and boating through Maine is like skating on lace - beautiful but filled with treacherous areas to avoid. 

                                     

Swing bridges are one way for cars  and boats to share navigation of  this irregular coast. These images give you an idea of how the bridge "swings" open and closed to give everyone a chance.  This is the swing bridge leading into the "back" of Booth Bay.  Miss the opening and it's tea time, as you circle round for 30 minutes or more until the next opening. 

                                              

Booth Bay is one of those "quintessential" towns. Note the red "marina office", that barely holds it's mitress Judy. A lovely town, that creeps up the hill to a second harbor, boasts a music focused art center and has enough summer traffic to support several art galleries and a number of B&B's. 

            

The charming wooden foot bridge links the main town to the harbour's residential side, which sports a few lobster shacks with picnic tables and steaming corn and lobsters filled cauldrons. Where Booth Bay is one of those quintessential, somewhat tourist focused,  Maine villages often teaming with people enjoying ice cream, it is coincidentally juxteposed to close by artist colony Mohegan Island, which has an unapproachable 4-slip dock with an equally unreacahable dock master! 

With our guests, the Johnson's, we venture on to several of our favorite anchorages, including Jewel Island, Christmas and a Pulpit Harbours. Finally it's time to get back to civilization.  We choose Rockland, just in time for Maine's annual Lobster Festival.   Along the fairway - among fried "everything", brightly lit rides, booths and live music - we kept seeing the same familiar faces. Do you recognize anyone?

  

                                                 

Rockland is a US Coast guard center, that was hosting a weekend of tours on one of its older schooners, as newbie replaced veteran crew. Besides having terrific working marinas, Rockland has several noteable museums. The Farnsworth has a permanent collection of multi-generational Wyeth paintings, as well as it's own and rotating exhibits. The Lighthouse Museum will provide more than a glimpse of an indispensable technology.

                                                 

 You'll be amazed at how much is packed in this bustling town. Everything is reachable within a 15-minute walk. Camden, similarly sized but a slightly more upscale town,  is a short 20 minute car, or slightly longer bike ride away, with several notable restaurants and the Owls Head Transportation Museum in between.  

We love this area by sea, but it's equally magical by land. Plan to find yourself in the neighborhood. 

Newport - Clifftop Cottages and Acres of Masts

If you are a boater, a pilgrimage to Newport RI is on your short list. Newport fame began as a commercial and whaling center, making the town unusually cosmopolitan. At its height of prosperity in the mid 18th century, all ended abruptly in 1776, when the British began a three year occupation and destroyed over 500 buildings. After the British departure, the French army used it as an outpost. Newport never fully recovered.  

However in the 1800's it continued as a commercial port, with ships as large as 200 feet, coming from far and wide. While sea captains began leaving the area, wealthy Southerners, and their counterparts from New York, Baltimore, Boston and the Carribean returned, building "cottages" on the cliffs overlooking the harbour as their summer retreat. By the llate 1800's, Newport became the unchallenged summer playground of the Gilded Age's ultra wealthy. World War I and stock market crash again changed the harbors character. The Navy to expand its influence but when it left in 1973, commercial businesses took over the waterfront and places like 'Blood Alley", where polite society had never dared visit,  have become wildly popular destinations for all. 

                                    

Approching the harbour today, one is inevitably heralded with racing sailboats and all manner of boats large and small funneling into the well marked opening  of this large protected area. The massive "cottages" from a bygone era dot the cliffs and, if you make it to land, are worth a visit for their diversity and incredible interior workmanship.  

Marinas and mooring balls are plentiful. There are literally acres of sailing masts. Some marinas specialize in motor boats, with many yachts well over 100 feet. Beautiful old schooners ferry folks out for day and sunset cruises. Water taxis provide cross harbour access. As you find your way, steeples along with other historical buildings dot the shore.  Boater or no, Newport is a pilgrimage worth making. 

PS - Technology can be a little too helpful. The previous Mystic post refers to a "vascular" bridge, when what was meant was a BASCULAR bridge. However, in reality, this is a "SWING BRIDGE". Bascular bridge's create an opening by hinging up from one side. The blogmiester will attempt to better check her future sources. 

Historical, enjoyable Mystic Seaport

 A working preservation shipyard and a recreated 19th century seafaring village are just a couple of reasons why Conecticut's Mystic Seaport is worth visiting. We stopped here 10 days ago on our way back from Long Island. 

Arriving by boat requires coordinating timing with a vascular bridge, which swings closed to allow both Amtrack  to whizz by and long cargo trains to lumber through. There aren't many of these swinging bridges left and they're always interesting. This one is particularly large and wide, making a dramatic arc across the water that is worth waiting for, unless you're really hungry for that mid afternoon ice cream. 

           

                      

Mystic Seaport is a fairly large complex of both live period demonstrations relative to 19th century life and various museums reflecting the technology and lifestyle of that time. For children,  there are several hands on "maker" opportunities, so bring a child along so you can join in the fun. The Museum of America and the Sea is considered to be the nation's leading maritime museum. 

                   

The Charles W. Morgan is the jewel of Mystic Seaport. This whaleship was launched in 1841. After an 80-year career that spanned the globe, she is the oldest American commercial vessel still afloat and the last remaining wooden whaleship in the world. This summer she embarked on a voyage to several New England destinations, and was actually in Boston while we were in Mystic. But we got a glimpse of her through the exhibits and workshops and will have to return to see the her when she gets home. 

Fisher's Island

Next stop, after leaving Montauk Point on Long Island was the 11 mile crossing to Fishers Island. The only tricky part of the crossing is making it through The Race, where rip tides arise from the competing Atlantic Ocean and Long a Island Sound currents. A majestic stone light house,that looks like a small castle, was built in 1870 to guide ships through what can be a treacherous crossing.  Once to the other side, you enter Fisher Island's large protected harbour. 

We are somehow drawn to islands and frequently anchor nearby, going ashore to explore.  These microcosms each have an immediately observable persona. At nine miles by four, Fisher Island is close to ten times the size of Useppa. About 230 live here year round, with the population swelling to 2,000 during the summer season. Daily ferries from Groton, and other close by Connecticut towns, bring workers and supplies the 2-5 miles from the coastline. Unlike Useppa, there are cars, trucks, a post office and about 6 shops in the village. But don't forget to bring milk, bread or eggs or you'll be waiting for a mainland delivery the following day. Ice cream, however, is no problem with Topper's being a must stop in the village. Several outlying boutiques and galleries are open, generally on the weekend from 10:00-12:00, so plan your time carefully. 

                        

Homes are traditionally cedar shingle. They range in size from truly modest to palatial, in a New England sort of way. Let's just say its a stretch to think of 5-bedrooms in 4,500 sq. feet as a "cottage", even if it is cedar shingle. Folks are very friendly with bike riding and sailing as obviously popular activities, although the island also boasts one of America's 100 best golf courses.  License plates from Connecticut and New York reflect a debate that raged for years as to which state F.I. belonged to. New York won, although a call here from New York is still considered long distance! 

The first European landed here and named the island Visher's Island in 1614. By 1640 sheep were being raised and it's history began. Clearing  of stone to create walls and using local wood for building leveraged the island's natural beauty.  But hurricanes and storm surges have several times conspired to essentially denude the island, most recently in 1950. Residence clearly treasure the uniqueness of the island and have helped to restore it back to its verdant natural state. One doesn't get the sense that there is much real estate churn, but that shouldn't discourage you from boarding a Connecticut ferry and coming for a days outing. You would certainly feel most welcome. 

Cruising the East End

When bringing Blue Chip north, we usually race past everything north of New York harbor in our hurry to get back to a Boston.  This year, we had crew interested in going to Long Island, so we thought, why not? Now we're wondering why we don't spend more time on the east end of Long Island? 

Sag Harbor was our first stop. Tucked into a wide, well protected harbor on the northern edge of Long Island's southern tip, Sag was an important waling site in the early years. In the 1900's it was the Bohemian Hampton, overlooked by the development that overtook most of the east end. Homes are generally modest and families abound, making it more laid back than many of the other towns. But the village is filled with well curated shops, excellent restaurants and several live theaters.  Don't miss Bagel Bouy - serving some of the most amazing bagel and lox we've had in a long time. 

The American Hotel is an institution, boasting guests who are arts royalty. With only a handful of rooms, it is one of the hottest tickets anywhere in the Hamptons. We joined old and new friends for a fantastic dinner, then walked back to BlueChip.  

Three Mile Harbor was our next stop. We anchored out to a quiet sunset and watched as a full moon rose over the horizon. 

Between Steve and I, we've lived on Long Island for nearly 5 decades. Watching the Hamptons develope, we had bemoaned the disappearance of it's many farms and fishing villages. After not spending time here for the last decade, it's easy to loose perspective on the uniqueness of this place. Small villages sprinkle the landscape. Inlets, harbors and small islands provide numerous boating options. With so many family and friends living close by, we're wondering why we stayed away so long?  

Boston weekend!

We had a truly super and relaxing Fourth of July weekend. Hurricane Arthur had us starting early, but the best, besides a Red Sox win (we're overlooking the loss), was having family visit. Tim came and immediately dug into a renovation project. Jen brought her friend Chris to share her discoveries from her last visit, although Chris had done some of his own research, so there was plenty to choose from. 

Captain Steve took us all out for a Sunday luncheon harbour cruise on Blue Chip. Immediate relaxation and the hope they'll come back to visit Cal and us soon. 

Arthur delivers Independence Day a day early!

Like much of the east coast, Boston has been eyeing Arthur's path up the east coast. Wednesday evening, the city announced that the renowned July 4th Boston Pops & fireworks were now rescheduled for July 3rd.  The city scrambled and there were far less than 500,000 attendees, but all of the Kaufman's guests made it to our deck. The fireworks launched on the river, just in front of our house were terrific!

The Beach Boys squeezed in a performance, but the Pops never got to the 1812 Overture. Suddenly, 20 minutes early, the sky exploded with light!

Within 10 minutes of the fireworks ending, we could feel a few random drops and then the sky let go with an absolute downpour. Let's talk about perfect timing! 

Today - July 4th - we're relaxing, enjoying nephews and nieces who came by for the weekend and, as the rain pours outside, thankful that the weather guys got it right!  Happy Fourth!!

Thirasia - 1mile and 100 years

Everyday from where we stayed, we could see a small inhabited island with a tiny, white, hilltop village, that seemed accessible only by a very steep winding path. We couldn't resist the adventure. 

Thirasia is a 3-1/2 square mile island - huge by Useppa standards. In 236BC, the land bridge connecting it to Santorini was destroyed. Just a mile across the Aegean Sea, it couldn't be more different than the hustle of its much larger sister island.

Although swimming was briefly considered, we found a local "ferry" that goes back and forth twice a day. Don't let those steamer-type icons fool you. The ship was considerably smaller than Blue Chip, and once loaded with food and supplies for the island, there wasn't much room for its dozen passengers. The main working port of Riva had a handful of small buildings, with colorful bobbing boats that looked child sized. The "bus" we had read about that would take us up to the capital "city" of Manolis was an old flat bed with a bench seat in back which we were welcome to share with groceries. Virtually no English is spoken on Thirasia, but our elderly driver was able to communicate that the fare was 3-euros each. At three times the ferry crossing, the price seemed a bit dear, but the opportunity to avoid a long walk in the blazing sun made it a bargain. We were his only passengers. 

Being on unspoilt Therasia is absolutely stepping back in time. With few paved roads, there are probably more donkeys than motorbikes or cars. The island hosts 21 churches, all dedicated to saints protecting sailors, including Saint Irena from which Santorini gets it's name. "Villages" can be so small, that you might not realize when you've passed through one. "Stores" need no signs because there are few and the islanders know where they are, although we only spotted one. 

 

Minolas, the stretch of white buildings we could see on the rim of the caldera, is navigated via a series of steep cobblestone paths and steps that connect traditional white homes with bright trim in blue or gold. A further mile up a steep hill brings you past the island's single 6 room  lodging-house to one of the larger church buildings and the local cemetery. The minute family crypts are topped with what looks like miniature blue and white churches and enhanced with inlaid photos that bring you back through the decades. 

The one bit of English we did see was a sign pointing to the steps that bring you to Korfos, the island's second port. A cold drink at the Panorama restaurant out priced Starbucks, but it was REALLY needed before our descent. A string of donkeys looked as if they were headed down at 45-degrees. But the cobblestone steps looked more like a series of 270 platforms, so how bad could it be? Let's just say we now understand why virtually everyone, including residents, that get off the ferry at Korfos take donkeys to get up the hill. 

A series of tavernas and every variety of small boat makes up Korfos, which is a popular stopping point for people wanting a break from the hustle of Santorini. The ferry driver finishes his lunch and we re-board to return to Amoudi, the small port near Oia on the western tip of Santorini. We're happy to be back home, but wouldn't have missed Thirasia for the world. It's the picture of Greece, residing in your minds eye, that you never thought you would find. And, if your not up for an adventure, you would have never found it. 

Akrotiri - the Minoans and a Greek Island Top 10 Ancient Site

We learned that the prehistoric settlement of Akrotiri, located on the southern end of the island, was continuously inhabited from the middle of the Neolithic Age (5th millennium BC) through the Early Bronze Age (3rd millennium BC). With two sandy beaches on either side providing safe refuge for vessels and crucial proximity to Crete and Cyprus, Akritori became an ever more important regional location for trade.  Consequently the city was rebuilt several times in spite of multiple earthquakes.  The city reimerges post-earthquake in the Middle Bronze Age (2100-1600BC), creating ever more palatial multi story buildings, decorated in both the red and black lava stone and limestone of the area.  

The final rebuilding was in the Late Bronze Age, but a sudden eruption of the volcano at the beginning of the 16th century, buried the city under a thick mantle of pumice and volcanic ash, preserving evidence of the Minoan civilization lifestyle for posterity. This volcanic eruption was so huge that it created a tsunami reaching the shores of Minoan Crete, 70 miles away and, many believe, was the main contributor to the rapid decline of the highly advanced civilization. 

 The partial excavation of Ancient Akrateri is completely covered by a modern shelter that disappears into the landscape. This nearly three acre site includes 32 buildings, sewage system, in-home sanitation facilities, and hot-cold running water, all of which speak to a highly evolved cosmopolitan city. 

The sophisticated decoration and brighlt colored artifacts are typical of the Minoan civilization, who were the inhabitants during this area's protracted Bronze Age. The exquisite wooden furniture, rich household goods, including many imported items, speak to the prosperity and bourgeois mentality of its populace.

Many of the items from this extensive time period, along with the more recent artifacts and mural paintings, have been moved to the Museum of Prehistoric Thera (ancient name for Santorini) located in Fira. The colors are bright, rich and diverse. The decorative images include intricately detailed dress, birds (swallows), plants, fish and dolphins, all typical of the area. The inclusion of plants and animals, such as blue monkeys, not inherent to this part of the world, speaks to Akrateri's worldliness as a result of their important role in trade. 

The quality of the excavation and documentation rivals what we saw in Ephesus, so if your an ancient-city-junky, Akrateri is just one more reason to add Santorini to your list.