Architecture is very modern and prominently seen in extremely tall buildings. Shopping is clearly a serious pastime, with large above and underground shopping centers and multi-storied department stores sprinkled throughout the city. Frequently seen groups of brightly colored, tethered toddlers is evidence that you can never begin too young. Besides an endless selection of clothing and jewelry there are incredible food departments to be found. Think Dean and DeLuca on steroids. Besides prepared foods, there are incredible displays of flowers. Vegetables are beautifully arranged. Lettuce is fanned out and selected leaf by leaf. Fruit arrangements appear like pieces of art - whether bagged in pyramids or carefully cupped individually in a plastic nest - almost too beautiful to eat. Naturally there is a wide variety of kimchi, but if you would prefer macaroons or candy-apples, they are there for the taking.
Large Buddhist temple complexes are an oasis amid urban life. Bongeunsa is close by to where we are staying, south of the Han River. The tall white standing Buddha is its icon. Thousands of white paper lanterns have attached prayers and can be seen blanketing the inside of various shrines or cutting white paper streams up the hilly terrain.
Monks play music, lead prayers and conduct funeral services inside brightly painted wooden buildings that remind us of Bhutan. Shoes are left outside as worshipers select a cushion and enter for prayer. Guests are respectfully welcome to join, although the level of activity at the complex makes this somehow feel inappropriate. Maybe we will return and enter at a quiter moment.
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