A day with Steve - wandering Phnom Penh

Steve is widely travelled.  However, he's a big picture guy. Nuance would not be his middle name. So, understandably, there are only so many temples and markets one can expect to hold his attention. 

We stopped at the very elegant Raffles, which immediately transports you back to Colonial days.  Jackie O stopped here in 1967, where she made the pink tinged Femme Fatale cocktail at the Elephant Bar famous.  Her lipstick stained glass and a number of wonderful photos memorialize the visit. 

                             

   

Back to the center of town, Steve rested while the rest of us traipsed through yet another market. As his reward for a long HOT day, and in preparation for the evening event with his HBS students' clients, Steve got a "proper shave".

                            

The length and size of that recently sharpened blade made the rest of us cringe, but this is how the Cambodians do it - open air and street side.  Now Steve has both a Cambodian and a Cuban barber. Even with all the extras, it's a long way from Boston, so I don't think they are too worried on Newbury Street.

Watch out Starbucks!

Cambodians are coffee drinkers - all kinds of coffe drinks and strong!  Historically, they imported most of their beans from Vietnam, the 2nd largest coffee grower in the world. However, with the increase of coffee bars, and a desire to cut out the Vietnamese middle man, growing coffee in the Cambodian highlands is on the rise.  

                        

 Brown is one of several high end chains in Phnom Penh. With a variety of interesting interiors, an amazing selection of hot and cold foods and shockingly fast internet speed, it can easily become your home away from home - even if it does take nearly 24 hours to get here. 

                                       

If your less concerned about ambiance and looking for a uniquely Cambodian experience, visit the congenial and unassuming Mr. Bounairth for the best iced coffee in Phnom Penh. And it really is. Whether laced with a healthy helping of Best Cow condensed milk, or taken straight, searching out this unassuming stall in the food court of the Toul Tumpuong (Russian Market) is absolutely worth the journey.

These little things make traveling memorable, providing tangible comparisons to what we know. It's what stays with you after so many other memories fade. 

Cambodia - Food Reflects History

The food found in any country gives insight into both its soul and its history. Cambodia is no exception. Its cuisine is a delightful mix of Indian, Thai, Vietnamese with hints of Chinese and French overlaid with inherent Khmer. The result is a cuisine you can't quite put your finger on, with layers of flavors and something for everyone. In an attempt to get closer to its soul you read a little history and take a cooking class with Cambodia-Cooking-Class.com.

Your morning begins with a trip to the outdoor market. Aisle upon aisle with stalls for every fruit, vegetable, still-moving-fish, meat, herb and any spice you can think of  - and other items  far beyond the reaches of your imagination. Costco has nothing on the Phasar Kandal!

                            

Then you join 10 other curious foodies from all over the globe on an open air rooftop kitchen. You peel potatoe flour pancakes, shred taro, chop and pound with a wooden mortar and pestle until you think you can pound no more, yet more pounding is required. 

                               

You learn about a long list of flavorful plants and how to layer salt with sugar, chillies and clear fish sauce. Adjusting chilie heat isn't nearly as difficult as you think - if you just grasp the seeds in combination with salt and sugar equation. You form vegetable logs to stuff your spring rolls, but wait, there are rolling tricks too! And who knew 30 rolls could fit in one shallow oil filled wok, gently cooking for nearly 30 minutes. Did I mention there's no AC? 

                                   

Ah - and then there is the payoff.  Spring rolls, banana flower and shrimp salad, beef with long beans,  fish curry steamed in banana leaf cups that your group has made and finally mangoe toasted coconut topped with sticky rice drizzled with carmelized palm sugar and toasted sesame. Clearly this is NOT going to be a low calorie trip! But the layers of flavors keep you guessing and will more than make up for the inevitable loosening of one's belt.   

We can taste the history and begin to understand what might appear simple, yet is the deeply layered complexity of Cambodia.