Thirasia - 1mile and 100 years

Everyday from where we stayed, we could see a small inhabited island with a tiny, white, hilltop village, that seemed accessible only by a very steep winding path. We couldn't resist the adventure. 

Thirasia is a 3-1/2 square mile island - huge by Useppa standards. In 236BC, the land bridge connecting it to Santorini was destroyed. Just a mile across the Aegean Sea, it couldn't be more different than the hustle of its much larger sister island.

Although swimming was briefly considered, we found a local "ferry" that goes back and forth twice a day. Don't let those steamer-type icons fool you. The ship was considerably smaller than Blue Chip, and once loaded with food and supplies for the island, there wasn't much room for its dozen passengers. The main working port of Riva had a handful of small buildings, with colorful bobbing boats that looked child sized. The "bus" we had read about that would take us up to the capital "city" of Manolis was an old flat bed with a bench seat in back which we were welcome to share with groceries. Virtually no English is spoken on Thirasia, but our elderly driver was able to communicate that the fare was 3-euros each. At three times the ferry crossing, the price seemed a bit dear, but the opportunity to avoid a long walk in the blazing sun made it a bargain. We were his only passengers. 

Being on unspoilt Therasia is absolutely stepping back in time. With few paved roads, there are probably more donkeys than motorbikes or cars. The island hosts 21 churches, all dedicated to saints protecting sailors, including Saint Irena from which Santorini gets it's name. "Villages" can be so small, that you might not realize when you've passed through one. "Stores" need no signs because there are few and the islanders know where they are, although we only spotted one. 

 

Minolas, the stretch of white buildings we could see on the rim of the caldera, is navigated via a series of steep cobblestone paths and steps that connect traditional white homes with bright trim in blue or gold. A further mile up a steep hill brings you past the island's single 6 room  lodging-house to one of the larger church buildings and the local cemetery. The minute family crypts are topped with what looks like miniature blue and white churches and enhanced with inlaid photos that bring you back through the decades. 

The one bit of English we did see was a sign pointing to the steps that bring you to Korfos, the island's second port. A cold drink at the Panorama restaurant out priced Starbucks, but it was REALLY needed before our descent. A string of donkeys looked as if they were headed down at 45-degrees. But the cobblestone steps looked more like a series of 270 platforms, so how bad could it be? Let's just say we now understand why virtually everyone, including residents, that get off the ferry at Korfos take donkeys to get up the hill. 

A series of tavernas and every variety of small boat makes up Korfos, which is a popular stopping point for people wanting a break from the hustle of Santorini. The ferry driver finishes his lunch and we re-board to return to Amoudi, the small port near Oia on the western tip of Santorini. We're happy to be back home, but wouldn't have missed Thirasia for the world. It's the picture of Greece, residing in your minds eye, that you never thought you would find. And, if your not up for an adventure, you would have never found it. 

Museums that tell a story - in a most impressive manner!

Israel has more museums per capita than any other country in the world. 

The Israel  Museum is the largest, with a collection of archeological art that is encyclopedic, with international exhibits throughout the ages, as well as incredible contemporary art and photography. We gained early entry for a private tour and could have easily returned for multiple visits. 

Those that most impressed were those that tell the story of Israel and it's people. 

We were privileged to meet with Dalia Rabin, the daughter of the late Prime Minister at the Israeli Museum Yitzhak Rabin Center. The museum she spearheaded on behalf of her father, is dedicated to telling the story of Israel in the context of what was happening internationally both culturally and historically. We traveled back in time and saw the world through a different lense. This is a current image of children lighting Yahrzeit candles, which are traditionally lit annually in memory of those who have died. This year thousands of children came home from school on National Hollocaust Memorial Day, with a candle embellished the name of someone who died in the Hollocaust.

Seeing how simply this Prime Minister and Nobel Peace Prize winning  man lived, throughout his life was nothing short of stunning.   YitzhahRabins assassination at a Peace Ralley in November of 1995, was a defining moment in Israel, much like we have experienced I the US.

The Holocaust History Museum was another incredible example of how to educate and engage people if all ages and backgrounds. There was no one in our group who didn't come away with new knowledge. 

The Museum looks over the country side and is a series of buildings, indoor and outdoor spaces. The pavilion honoring the one and a half million children that perished in the Hollocaust, may have been the most moving thing we experienced during our visit. 

 

The Kaufman's are museum goers. There are few museums in the world that can compare to the sophistication and skill evident in the museums we saw here. With dozens to choose from, treat yourself. 

Oh that weightless feeling - even after so much good food!

You can't help but giggle when, after wading out into the palest green warm water, you simply sit and float. Of course it's the Dead Sea, just 25 miles south of Jerusalem. Part of the Negev Desert and at 1,400 feet below sea level, it is the lowest point in the world. Here the atmosphere is so dense, that you can float almost endlessly and not worry about sunburn. It's richer oxygen levels are reported to bring a sense of well being. Note however, that swimming is NOT allowed, to discourage water, with its 40% mineral content,  from getting into your eyes. You also might want to avoid shaving or going in with any scratches. Yowee!

Divided by a low levee between the larger northern portion, controlled by Jordan and the south, controlled by Israel, there is a high degree of cooperation for this sea, which is receding at a rate of 3 feet per year. Nothing actually "lives" in these waters, put the richness of  magneium, potassium, salt and silica makes mining minerals so valuable, that great attention is given to attempting to maintain its unique ecosystem. 

We simply enjoyed getting a day pass at one of the many hotels, enjoying the waters and then cooling off in the pool and therapeutic spas. Mineral rich mud is available for smearing and baking, which encourages many to come here for various cures. We were happy with a few simple hours of weightless relaxation. 

Two wonderful educational models

Our hosts arranged for a variety of interactive immersion opportunities. Two middle school and high school education programs were particularly interesting.

English is required in Israel, beginning in middle school. Most children's early exposure is from TV and then from teachers who are native Hebrew speakers. Enter the MASA teaching fellows, native English speaking college graduates and considered superstars by their young students. They are engaged by the Jewish Agency to come to teach in Israel for up to two years in the public schools. We met several, including Fiona who had a distinctly Scotish accent, which her fellow teachers claim helps to round ourt the studnet's English ear. We'll buy that. With our 8 travel,companions, we played a round of Jeopardy with a small group of Rishon Lexion students and were duly impressed. 

Yemin Ord tackles a completely different set of challenges. It is a youth village north of Jeruslaem and one of Israel's most innovative educational institutions, specializing in integrating new immigrant youth into Israeli society. The mix of children is Russian, heavily Ethiopian and increasingly Syrian.  Others come from families who may have been here longer, but are troubled. Children are either referred or parents apply on behalf of their children. The students board here during the week and have the option to go home on weekends. They live in group homes and besides the general courses taken by their public school peers, tremendous focus is placed on helping youth to understand what it takes to excel in life. Topics like "networking, help newcomers understand that the difference between their cell phones and those of the teachers they look up to are the names and numbers one accumulates and how those people can help them get information and solve problems as they move through life. 

Eventually these children will join the 2-4 year required military and possibly compete to go to college. Getting them on a more level playing field with those that are born here, already have Hebrew as their first language, have extended family and share a common sense of time and work ethic is a challenge for these young people. What makes the program even more impactful is that graduates come back both to motivate current students or just for a brief period of retreat to recharge and get centered. And who doesn't need that from time to time?

These program reminded us of some of the more successful charter schools we hear of that give that extra hand to those who may need it most. Very interesting to see the Israeli take. 

Eilat to Jordan's Petra

While in the neighborhood, how could we resist the temptation to travel 190 miles south of Jerusalem, over the Negev desert, to Eilat?  This Israeli sun-drenched seaside resort town sports palm tree  protected pools, beaches, all types of watersports, restaurants, shops and a boardwalk. There's certainly something for everyone, from young families to retirees.

Legend has it that after Creation, the angels painted the earth and when they got tired, spilled their paints. The blue became the waters of Eliat and the other colors became its fish and coral.

In a sense, what's most stunning is Eilat's position relative to Aqaba, Jordan's largest port. Both are located directly across from each other at the top of the narrow, pointed Gulf of Eliat. The lights you see here on the right is Israel, the left Jordan and dead center a huge freighter waiting to unload.

Although this gulf eventually turns into the Red Sea, Eliat residents can easily point out Jordanian royals' yacht, vacation villas and, of course, there are the many large freighters just hundreds of yards off the beach. But here the atmosphere is purely festive. 

Petra - often considered the eight wonder of the world - the ancient "rose red city, half as old as time" was settled by the Nabataeans more than 2200 years ago. 

Begin by crossing  through passport control to Jordan, and drive two hours north of Eilat, you will pass both desert mountains and farmable land; Bedouin contemporary towns and tented villages. Finally you arrive at this ancient trade route, secreted among high cliffs. The main entrance to Petra is an impressive 1,200 yard long, deep narrow stunningly beautiful multi colored gorge with agricultural terraces, votive niches and monumental reliefs carved into the stone. Just when you think you've seen enough dazzling sights, you suddenly come upon the towering Al-Khazneh "treasury".

Remind you if Indiana Jones? You would be right. Some of the filming occurred right here at this UNESCO site. Its boulevards, temples, splendid toumbs and amphitheater make the steep hot treck completely worthwhile. 

Gradually Christianity replaced the old religion and the rise of sea trade began to precipitate Petra's decline. The Muslims took over in 633, the Crusaders arrived in 1179, but after their defeat, the city sank into oblivion, known only to the Bedouin, until rediscovered by a Swiss explorer in 1812. And maybe by you - an intrepid traveler. 

Back after entirely too long

Late Sunday, we arrived, just in time to join our Israeli friends,  the Adlers, and 5 others who took them up on the invitation to see Israel  through their eyes. We will travel to 5 places in 10 days, with special tours and speakers and not so much time to sleep. 

This view from our window  is of Tel Aviv's Mediterranean coast. This is NOT the city of Karen's visit 25 years ago, but since then the city has more than quadrupled in size. 

Today, Monday, has been Holocaust Remembrance Day. A country wide minute of silence was observed. This panel was developed by a local middle school we visited. 

Today there are very few Holocaust survivors, and the majority of today's Israeli families did not come as  a direct result of the Holocaust, but all people here know that it was a time which came closer than any other to wiping out the Jewish population. And now, 75 years later, it is first time there are more Jewish people living since before the Holocaust. 

With a country that is 70% Jewish and huge divides between those that consider themselves Orthodox, Practicing and Secular, it will be an interesting week of teasing out the domestic aspects of the Israeli story. However, one thing is clear - there is a strong  sense of pride and optimism  across all generations which is contagious.