(Backup) Boston to New London

As we leave Boston harbor, this image foreshadows the next few days of boating - historical sites,  a bit overcast but generally friendly seas. 

Our first stop is Mattapoisett, that dark red spot near the elbow leading to Cape Cod. The Cape Cod Canal provides a convenient cut that allows us to take a shortcut here along the southern part of the map's pink shape without going all the way up and around Provincetown, the Cape's most northern reach. 

This area of Buzzards Bay is truly laid back. Homes here are generally small and no one is out to impress.  

Marion is located ever so slightly north. Although established in 1679 as Sippican, disagreements with neighboring villages led to the town being re-established in 1852 and then named after Revolutionary War hero Francis Marion. Since then, the economy relied on the waters  of Buzzard Bay for fishing, summertime tourism and ever popular sailing. 

The Little Red Library take a book-leave a book philosophy and the First Congregational "Be the Church" sign, pretty  much says it all.  Marion has a tiny charming town with a small local market, three or four stores and probably all you would have really needed in the mid-1800's. The local population of just under 5,000 thinks that suits just fine.  

On our way into Rhode Island Sound, high on White Hill bluff, is the iconic Ocean House. Famous for its yellow facade and stunning views, it opened just after the Civil War in 1868 and was the last of the Victorian Era waterfront hotels on mainland  Rhode Island. It's recent high budget renovations and Relais and Chatteau status will likely guarantee its stately presence for generations to come.  Sandwiched between Boston, New York City and Newport, there is easy access by car, boat or, if you choose, helicopter. I'm just saying....

Next port of call is Jamestown Village on Conanicut Island. (And no that's not a spelling error.) Founded in 1636 as a trading post by the Dutch West Indian Company to trade with the Narragansett Indians, beaver pelts and castorium - perfume musk oil from the renal glands of MIT's mascot (you REALLY don't want to know more than that) - made it an important destination for ships entering Narragansett Bay. In 1678 the village was incorporated and named for King James II.

Today it has a population of just over 5,000 and is the 441st wealthiest city in the USA. (Those miles of beautiful coastline come at a cost.) The long delicate canteleavered Jamestown Verrazano bridge spans Narragansett Bay, joining Rhode Island's North Kingston to Jamestown and Newport. However, unlike its east and west neighbors, Jamestown Village's seaside location is lost in time, with cedar shingled and brightly painted clapboard homes, farmers market, an excellent wine store, gourmet shop, a few restaurants, local museum, library and excellent wine store right in the center of town.  What more could you need?

As we continue along the western shores of Naragansett Bay on our way to Wickford, we are greeted by the Polar Point Light. The wooden lighthouse was originally built in 1831 and is the oldest wooden lighthouse in the United States.  It has recently been incorporated into a private home, which will likely ensure its continuation. 

Wickford Village was established as a trading post in 1637 and surrounds one of the most well protected harbors on the eastern seaboard, which explains the inordinate number of boatyards, moorings and anchorages that line the harbor and its entrance.  Wickford has several claims to fame.  

 * It abuts the Quonset Point Air National Guard Station, where Richard Nixon did his basic training in 1942.  

 * The village has the largest collection of historic 18c homes, still on their original foundations, in the northeast. Greek Revival, Late Victorian and Federal styles speak to the village's early importance. 

* The annual Wickford Art Festival is one of the most prominent on the eastern seaboard, attracting 100's of worldwide artists and thousands of patrons. 

* The fiber arts have a startling presence here with spinning wheels at the harbor and willage weavers, yarns and fabric stores.

* There is only ONE ice cream store AND it's is CLOSED on Monday! (You can't even begin to imagine the dismay this caused our captain! Or maybe you can?)

Bristol has an extremely long history.  The area's Wappanoagas Indians predated and then worked as guides for the Pilgrims. Four early Colonists purchased Mt Hope and Poppasquash Necks as part of the Plymouth Colony, which included the area eventually called Bristol and part of Massachusetts until the Crown transferred it to RI in 1747.  Interestingly Bristol boasts the oldest continuous celebration of Independence Day, which began in 1777.  

This deep water port has a long seaworthy history.  

Superb boat building is so storied here that buying a used boat "in Bristol condition" infers that it is in  impeccable shape. Bristol based Herreshoff boat company built five consecutive American Cup Defender winners between 1893 and 1920. They, Hunt and Hinkley all have boatyards here.  An active commercial boat presence endures today and speaks to its enduring importance.  

New London is located on the far southeast Connecticut coast.  For several decades, beginning in the 19th century, it was one of the three busiest whaling ports in the US and furnished much of the capital to fund the city's architecture.  Various manufactures came and have since moved on.  Today New London is popularly known as a ferry departure point for Block Island, RI, Fisher Island NY (Don't tell CT!)  and Orient Point, NY. Amtrak also stops here, just a short mile from the ferry port. 

This is such a very small handful of what this area has to offer. Make  your way south - or north, as the case might be and explore the many delightful towns of the Cape, Rhode Island and Connecticut coasts. Treat yourself and include the ferry as an alternate when making your way by car or foot from NYC to Boston or the Islands.  Reservations in summer are a must!

Next time your thinking of coastal exploration, give this area a try - history, art, architecture, food - charming any time of year. 

Park City Utah - NOT Just for Skiing

Utah is one of those amazing states with dramatic  geographic diversity  - from lush mountains with skiing trails, rivers and deep gorges to the deserts of Monument Valley. Flying into Salt Lake City, you might wonder if you'll spot the Mormon's Temple Square, but it's the world's largest open pit mine along the panoramic Rocky Mountains that you can't fail to notice.  The Kenecott Copper Mine in Bingham Canyon can be seen from  space or, if on earth, the 9,000 foot ascent brings you to its lip.  Tours are readily available. 

A quick 45-minute drive from SLC brings you to the mountain town of Park City. In 1864 Fort Douglas soldiers found silver in the Wasatch Mountains. Prospectors arrived in droves and the population exploded! By the late 19th century millions of dollars had been excavated, but with it prices rapidly declined and Park City turned into a ghost town. Today these original structures have been restored, brightly painted and line Main Street and brighten the surrounding area.  Absolutely charming!

But 7,000 feet above sea level takes a bit of getting used to. Visiting with dear friends from Steve's McKinsey days, we're reminded to hydrate constantly, respect the sun's strength and be prepared to slow our pace in thinner air. Hmmm - someone didn't check the week's itinerary! 

Yellow metal bike racks give a hint that this is both an athleticslly and artistically oriented town. The annual juried art show  packs Main Street with tented booths and people come from miles around, so book a room early and don't expect to park near by! Every art form imaginable can be found here.  The Kaufmans have two pieces being shipped back to Boston. Come take a look.  

It's common to hear that people come here for the skiing and stay for the life style. (The population is 8,000 but swells in the winter months.)  Hiking and biking trails for every level abound.  Farm Trailhead is an easy picturesque 3-mile loop that includes this Nationally  Registered Historic Places farmstead. 

In the 1938 Joe Quinney developed the first chair lift in nearby Alta, to be followed in 1845 by the same in Park City. And so the area came back to life as a skiing destination. 

Is that Steve Kaufman there?  Or maybe that's  his Alpine cousin !

The 2002 Olympic Winter Games underscored Park City's winter activities, which have expanded well beyond skiing! The park is still incredibly active, even in summer. Anyone can come for a tour, but those in the know come on Saturday or Sunday. IF you sign a waver - you can zip line down Olympic ski trails, try out the lower luge path (at 60+ miles per hour that's all you need), use tires to glide down the Nordic ski trail or don a life jacket to slide down the least steep of the ski jump training slides.  (More on that later.)

Is rock climbing your thing? Plenty make their way up this wall, or at least try before tumbling into the water. The upper portion bends to nearly a 45-degree angle! So, YES, bathing suits are the order of the day.  The competitive pros can scramble up in less than 30 seconds and are rewarded with a drop into a cooling pool. 

 

If you're like me, you might be more of an observer. I've  always wondered how those down hill jumpers ever learn their sport.  Downhill slopes into bubbling water and landing on gigantic  "pillow tops" helps gain confidence.  The park offers courses to those that want to learn the many winter sports available here, beginning with children as young as 6!

However, an event you'll never forget is watching the Flying Aces sore down inclines, being launched into the sky to twist and turn as they practice jumps before landing in the water. 

Cluck here to see the Flying Aces perform - 10 previous and potential future Olympic participants.

After all that day time activity - and fortified with amazing food from the Deer Valley Cafe, Royal Street Cafe, Brass Tag, Le Spri and Bistro 412 to name but a few - a little music might be just the thing!

How about the Beetles performing at the Deer Valley Music Festival? Bring chairs, wine and join 5,000 others for a sold out evening of music memories.  Over 20 performers come here every year so there's something for everyone.  

We can't thank our hosts - Annie Lewis and Bob Garda enough.  Needless to say, we had a wonderful time and with these helpful hints, we know you will too. So your not a skier? That's no reason to not go to Park City. Have fun!

10 Days of Complete Business

It began with the arrival of the Oregon Kaufman's on July 3rd.  The first in about 7 years and Evie's first visit. Here at the Maperium - a Boston original and a way to experience the globe from the inside. This is a unique experience you'll only have here, can't really describe and will never forget. 

This is Boston with the Kaufman's so there was boating. Swan boats on The Commons, a tradition since 1877 - the replica WWII amphibious Duck boats - and of course Blue Chip with Captains Evie and Steve at the helm. 

July 4th, which meant fireworks on the Charles, viewed from our back deck with the Boston Pops playing in the background. (We're happy to arrange anything for Evie, Clara, Erin & Jeremy and invite all of Boston to attend.) Clara and Jeremy clearly enjoyed driving and bumping at Canobie Lake Park in Salem, NH.  Evie and Bubbie over did it in the twirling cups and decided pitch-prize games might be a better option.  And we all agreed that the New England Aquarium was the perfect rainy day activity.  Definitely visit during feeding times for giant sea turtles, penguins, and seals. Also stop and pet the sharks and man-if-rays - but NOT during feeding time. 

We were very sad to see kids leave and hope they return soon - there's so much more exploring to do! While Steve got back to work, Karen got back to earning traveling points. 

A quick trip to NYC proves you can successfully put lipstick on a pig! The LIRR and NJ Transit are finally going through s renovation it's needed for 40+ years. It's truly amazing what a little "lipstick" can do. 

Above ground - movie makers take advantage of New Yorkers exiting the City for the cooler beaches.  Hoever, in the evening it's clear that vacationers are here in full force, despite the fact that in the summer Time Square becomes a de facto oven. (Where is trip Advisor?)

A quick run to Florida for a dentist appointment (don't ask) also means a stop on Useppa.  Late day storms creates beautiful sunsets, complete with rainbows. The rainy season has everything blooming, including  beeblam and Passion flowers.  The butterflies are thrilled! It's also a great time to plant, if you can work the timing around the 100% heat index. More water please. 

Southwest Florida loves its Gulf Coast shells.  Although typically seen decorating mirrors, boxes and lampshades, why stop there? This 2005 VW Beetle is covered in 60 different species of shells to commemorate the first National Seashell Day which was proclaimed by Lee County, FL and first celebrated on June 20, 2016. It took 65 volunteers 1,200 hours to apply 20,000 shells using 100 tubes of Amazing Goop marine glue. Okay - we've  now debunked any rumors that Florida lacks innovative spirit!  Has anyone contacted Ridleys? 

Summer has just started.  Clearly we are determined to make the most of it. We'll keep you posted. 

Chicago - a hell of a town!

 Chicago is one of those great towns. We stayed inThe  Loop area  for a two day visit last week.  You will find music, theatre, dance (including the Alvin Alley Dance Theatre) and restaurants galore.  And there's plenty of natural beauty and outdoor activities within easy reach. There's a Great Lake - no pun intended - with sailing, beaches and incredible sand dunes.  And of course Millennium Park, which transformed nearly 25 acres of rail yards, parking lots and parkland to celebrate the second millennium. Near the east entrance is the iconic Frank Gehry designed stainless steel, abstract, arching Pritzker Pavillion amphitheater that hosts musical events for up to 11,000. I'm sure there MUST be room for one more guest!

 

If you are more the strolling type, stop by the farmers market at the base of this 50-foot, 162-ton untitled 1967 sculpture by Pablo Picasso at Daley Plaza. Just a few blocks away is Alexander Calder's 53-foot Flamingo sculpture, located at Federal Plaza since 1973. 

                     

Stay Pineapple - The Alise Chicago  

We stayed at The Alise - a reasonably priced boutique hotel located at 1 West Washington St. Once an 1800's bank, its got just the kind of funky but practical style you would imagine from the Bellevue Washington based hotel group called StayPineapple and don't ask us where the name came from. Ok - Steve says to warn you that there was a $10 "amenity fee" that we still haven't figured out - just ask them to deduct it from your bill - they will - and stay there anyway. Click the link above for details about their mostly west coast locations. 

 

But at the end of the day, a girls gotta eat. Although I appreciate a good restaurant experience, its street food that really  captures a place. Some people miss the deep dish pizza, but it's the Chicago dog that I've been craving  for decades.  It's quintessential Chicago - All-American Midwest with a twist - the cucumber playing off the sport pepper and of course you've got to have the poppyseed bun. 

Get yourself to Chicago. (We'll even understand if you go to a Cubs game.) I'm predicting we'll be back again soon! 

Nature on Useppa

 

Summers on Useppa are extraordinary. Yes it's warm and it rains every evening, but that also means evening clouds which create extraordinary sunsets.  

 

If it's June then it's also time for night blooming cereus. All year long strands of cactus slowly grow down the trunks of cabbage palms. During the month of June long park red blossoms emerge. After dark, these burst open into glowing white blossoms nearly a foot wide. They only last for the night and then proof - they're gone. The next night, the magic repeats as new blossoms open.

 

It's also a time for our resident butterflies to enjoy their garden. With the rainy season comes an explosion of plants and also of butterflies. Besides the colonies of black and yellow Swallowtail that live here year round, we have have a profusion of others. These orange Gulf Fritillary have been fluttering around each other, doing a mating dance. Eggs will be laid and a few weeks after, the resulting caterpillar will be munching through a passion vine before starting the process all over again. 

 

Florida is not just a place to escape the winter.  It's a place filled with hidden and exotic beauty all year round - all you need to do is come and explore. Okay and bring sunblock and maybe a little bug spray - but it's worth it. Promise!

Abacos Islands - TAKE 2!

Seems version 1 went out without any content - So here goes take 2!

The Abacos is a boaters paradise. Located the furthest north in the Bahamas, this 120-mile jewelled necklace of both inhabited and uninhabited islands and cays offers countless mooring spots and a myriad of diversions. 

 

Most people associate the Abacos with Hope Town's iconic Elbow Reef Lighthouse, which is one of only two non-automated lighthouses in the Bahamas.   Built in 1864, this charming lighthouse sits 120 feet above sea level. It's 32,000 candlepower light provides visibility of 17 miles. Climb it's 101 steps for an amazing view - just bring water!

 

For you wooden boat lovers, there's another reason to visit this candy cane striped lighthouse. Come view Scully,  the last 14-foot wooden Abaco dinghy to be built by famed Winer Malone in 2010. These wooden dinghies were the traditional workboat used by Abaconians for fishing, conching, freight, transport and "courting" between islands.  In favorable winds, a sail was used. Alternately, a 10-foot sculling oar was placed in a transom notch. For those who need to know more, look up the Wooden Boat cover story from March-April 1997. These dinghies are still used by locals throughout the Abacos. 

 

There are so many places to stop and explore. These three are all on various cays within a 20 minute boat ride of Little Harbour.  If a sand beach is on your list, be certain to ask before making the trip. Many beaches are coral - and therefore not walkable - or are only accessible at low tide.  Nippers on Guana Cay is a winner - but you will have to walk through the poolside all-music-all-the-time outdoor restaurant. (There's a smaller indoor restaurant if you need some AC & sanity!)

 

We spent a wonderful afternoon with our new found friends the Wells walking and snorkeling. Nine year old Jonathan, number 9 of 9, wanted to see if we could bury him, which Karen proceeded to do. 

 

Steve had a heck of a time pulling him out. Must be time to get back to the gym!

 

Finally we ended up at Man O War Cay. Founded in 1780 by Loyalists who left the Carolinas, the  island's 400 residents are still a close knit group, in fact 70% of the Alburys (easily the island's MOST commmon name) can trace their ancestry to the 1st Alburys who settled here in 1816.  (VERY CLOSE - I'm just saying.) Albury boats are known throughout the Abacos as the most sturdy and well riding means of transport. 

The island is a mere 2-1/2 miles long and about 100 meters wide, with wonderful sandy beaches and a long protective Harbour that will protect you in any wind. There's also an amazing grocery store which will gladly order most anything you could need with 48-hour notice. (Boaters  - you know how diffucult it is to provision in the Bahamas!)

We love the food at the Dock and Dine. The Albury Canvas Shop is famous for its bags. Joe Albury sells his coveted handcrafted items. Andy Albury, of Albury Designs, creates half hulls on spec, as did his daddy, along with wonderful solid furniture.  Other shops offer food and well crafted items from M-O-W-ers,  as well as other Bahamians. 

With ferry transport, homes to rent and a fantastic harbor, M-O-W should be on everyone's list. But bring your own liquor.  This proudly conservative, god fearing island does not sell liquor. Although a glass of wine or beer can be bought with a meal, you'll be so relaxed, you won't miss it - promise! 

Abaco Bahamas - So Many Islands!

Harbour Island, Eleuthera - Oh the Colors!

 

Every Bahamanian Island settlement has its own personality. On Harbour Island you're immediatly struck by the calming beauty of pastel colored wooden cottages that overflow with lush flowering tropical foliage. 

 

Every winding street has a story to tell. Whether it's St John's Anglican Church, established in 1767 and the oldest on the island, or one of its British Loyalist clapboard homes.  

 

Colorful murals celebrate, decorate or draw you inside.  Feel free to explore. Residents are happy to chat, laugh and tell you stories, even if you're "only looking". Well, okay, you might find boxes made of shells  or colorfully embroidered rayan for your granddaughters.  

 

When you're done, indulge in some time at the pink sand beaches or by the pool with a glass of iced tea and maybe a sketch pad that has been sitting idle for too long. 

The restaurants are many and all wonderful. Sip-Sip is a colorful lunchtime favorite, on top of the eastern shore cliffs, looking down where wild horses run on endless pristine pink sand beaches.  (You WANT the lobster quesadilla!) That's Harbour Island. 

Across Devil's Backbone to Harbour Island

 

After a couple of peaceful days anchoring in the Berry Islands, we're off to Eleuthera.

 

 Like most anticipating this tricky crossing, we stop at Spanish Wells to pick up a guide to assist us in navigating the Devil's Backbone coral heads between the Berry and Eleuthera islands. The guide ties his much smaller boat onto your stern, takes over as captain and he speeds away maneuvering the unmarked coral. One false turn and you better be ready to swim. There's no Tow Boat US or coastguard here. We've relied  on Bandit to guide us since our first crossing in 2006 - AND......

 

 

to supply us with Stone Crab claws -  deliciously sweet, larger than you'll ever see and as fresh as they come. When we're really lucky, "Mrs Bandit" sends along coconut bread. 

 

 Spanish Wells itself is worth a stop. It's first settlers were of Scottish descent, unexpectedly landing here when shipwrecked crossing the Devil's Backbone on their way from the Bahamas to Eleuthera in 1647. (They should have called Bandit!) They were followed in the mid-1700s by British Loyalists escaping America. (Yup - you read that right.) 

Today Spanish Wells is the primary settlement on St George's Cay with a population just under 2,000. They remain primarily of British descent, Caucasian with a very specific accent and dialect, all of which makes the island and its inhabitants unique within the Bahamas. The majority of its youth leave the island for a college education with over 95% returning to live here. Commercial fishing, lobster and stone crabs are their primary industries. The settlement was dry until about 5 years ago, when they opened up to tourism.  So we suggest you skip the Stone Crabs on South Beach and put Spanish Wells on your list. You can always fly to Eleuthera and ask Bandit to bring you across - who knows, maybe he'll offer you Stone Crabs and coconut bread!