Happy July 4th from Harbour Island 🇧🇸 Bahamas!
Ironic since originally those arriving from America were British Loyalists who escaped during THE Revolution. But the Bahians are willing to put on fireworks for the rest of us, so who are we to argue?
And keep your eye out for cigar shaped manatees. Often over 8 - 10 feet long and easily weighing in at 800 to 1,200 or more pounds, they love the cool fresh water from the boats and will gladly accept a few leaves or romaine if you have them handy.
Even without a boat, arriving here is easier then you think. Fly into Miami or Ft Lauderdale, take a puddle jumper flight less then 200 miles to the Eleuthera airport and in 10 minutes a water taxi will have transported you across the harbour to Harbour Island. There are several guest houses and small single story “hotels” to choose from. The later is generally a traditional Bahamian home now consisting of a central dining room and bar with 8-10 cottages on the grounds built high on the island, looking east over its pink sand beach. You’ll definitely want to rent a golf cart to get around. Beach access near Dunmore’s will guarantee a much quieter experience then accessing next to Coral or Pink Sands, where the college crowd gathers and a DJ keeps things lively. Walk the beach, cool off in refreshingly warm celadon colored waters, rent an umbrella and lounge chair for sun protection and your good for the day!
There’s no shortage of delicious food and equally memorable views. Dunmore's or Sip-Sip (closed Wednesdays) has wonderful lunch and an escape from midday heat. Runaway offers Thai inspired options, along with more traditional Bahamian fare. Her owner acts as DJ, with curated music influenced by who she observes in the dining room, eventually slipping into music for its sophisticated evening bar retreat. Aguapazza has moved to Romora Bay Resirt marina and Massimo’s Italian influenced recipes never disappoint.
Before Harbour Island (I know this is working backwards, but you can do this!) we anchored out at behind an essentially deserted island cay. To the west, clouds lowered at sunset, with bright gold offsetting bulky dark, tall, dark silhouetted clouds. It was the post sunset eastern view;under-lighting this anvil like cloud formation that really caught our attention. Part of the magic of “swinging on the hook” instead of tieing up at a marina.
Our first stop post Ft Lauderdale (remember we’re working backwards) was Great Harbour Cay; part of the Berry Islands where passports can be stamped and boats pass out of quarantine. But we like it’s laid back unpretentious nature and always try to stay for a few days. The weekly mailboat hadn’t arrived - so neither had the island’s groceries. We had brought plenty of our own provisions - a must when going to the Bahamas. Our usual favorite restaurant, Carriearal, was not accepting diners, as it struggled to feed its own guests. So we tried the more local no name restaurant, down by the government dick, whose chef is also its part time driver (the island’s sergeant also helps out) AND a retired Nassau (Bahamas) Detective. (Bahamians tend to piece together a livelihood on the smaller islands.) Although the food was limited, how can you beat freshly caught fish and lobster? We’ll be back!
Karen also found the sea grape she’s promised to draw, among some other tropical plants, for a Useppa botanical guide. The boats running well. Our first guests have arrived - so we are off to a good start!!
(Except for some internet issues, which is WHY this particular entry is in reverse. Hmmm.)
