Fourth of July - Bahama style

Happy July 4th from Harbour Island 🇧🇸 Bahamas! 

Ironic since originally those arriving from America  were British Loyalists who escaped during THE  Revolution.  But the Bahians are willing to put on fireworks for the rest of us, so who are we to argue? 

And keep your eye out for cigar shaped manatees.  Often over 8 - 10 feet long and easily weighing in at 800 to 1,200 or more pounds, they love the cool fresh water from the boats and will gladly accept a few leaves or romaine if you have them handy.  

Even without a boat, arriving here is easier then you think.  Fly into Miami or Ft Lauderdale, take a puddle jumper flight less then 200 miles to the Eleuthera airport and in 10 minutes a water taxi will have transported you across the harbour to Harbour Island.  There are several guest houses and small single story “hotels” to choose from.  The later is generally a traditional Bahamian home now consisting of a central dining room and bar with 8-10 cottages on the grounds built high on the island, looking east over its pink sand beach.  You’ll definitely want to rent a golf cart to get around.  Beach access near Dunmore’s will guarantee a much quieter experience then accessing next to Coral or Pink Sands, where the college crowd gathers and a DJ keeps things lively.  Walk the beach, cool off in refreshingly warm celadon colored waters, rent an umbrella and lounge chair for sun protection and your good for the day!

There’s no shortage of delicious food and equally memorable views.  Dunmore's or Sip-Sip (closed Wednesdays) has wonderful lunch and an escape from midday heat.  Runaway offers Thai inspired options, along with more traditional Bahamian fare. Her owner acts as DJ, with curated music influenced by who she observes in the dining room, eventually slipping into music for its sophisticated evening bar retreat.  Aguapazza has moved to Romora Bay Resirt marina and Massimo’s  Italian influenced recipes never disappoint.  

Before Harbour Island (I know this is working backwards, but you can do this!) we anchored out at behind an essentially deserted island cay. To the west, clouds lowered at sunset, with bright gold offsetting bulky dark, tall, dark silhouetted clouds.  It was the post sunset eastern view;under-lighting this anvil like cloud formation that really caught our attention.  Part of the magic of “swinging on the hook” instead of tieing up at a marina.  

Our first stop post Ft Lauderdale (remember we’re working backwards) was Great Harbour Cay; part of the Berry Islands where passports can be stamped and boats pass out of quarantine. But we like it’s laid back unpretentious nature and always try to stay for a few days.  The weekly mailboat hadn’t arrived - so neither had the island’s groceries. We had brought plenty of our own provisions - a must when going to the Bahamas.  Our usual favorite restaurant, Carriearal, was not accepting diners,  as it struggled to feed its own guests.  So we tried the more local no name restaurant, down by the government dick, whose chef is also its part time driver (the island’s sergeant also helps out) AND a retired Nassau (Bahamas) Detective.  (Bahamians tend to piece together a livelihood on the smaller islands.) Although the food was limited, how can you beat freshly caught fish and lobster? We’ll be back!

Karen also found the sea grape she’s promised to draw, among some other tropical plants, for a Useppa botanical guide.  The boats running well.  Our first guests have arrived - so we are off to a good start!!

(Except for some internet issues, which is WHY this particular entry is in reverse. Hmmm.) 

Abacos Islands - TAKE 2!

Seems version 1 went out without any content - So here goes take 2!

The Abacos is a boaters paradise. Located the furthest north in the Bahamas, this 120-mile jewelled necklace of both inhabited and uninhabited islands and cays offers countless mooring spots and a myriad of diversions. 

 

Most people associate the Abacos with Hope Town's iconic Elbow Reef Lighthouse, which is one of only two non-automated lighthouses in the Bahamas.   Built in 1864, this charming lighthouse sits 120 feet above sea level. It's 32,000 candlepower light provides visibility of 17 miles. Climb it's 101 steps for an amazing view - just bring water!

 

For you wooden boat lovers, there's another reason to visit this candy cane striped lighthouse. Come view Scully,  the last 14-foot wooden Abaco dinghy to be built by famed Winer Malone in 2010. These wooden dinghies were the traditional workboat used by Abaconians for fishing, conching, freight, transport and "courting" between islands.  In favorable winds, a sail was used. Alternately, a 10-foot sculling oar was placed in a transom notch. For those who need to know more, look up the Wooden Boat cover story from March-April 1997. These dinghies are still used by locals throughout the Abacos. 

 

There are so many places to stop and explore. These three are all on various cays within a 20 minute boat ride of Little Harbour.  If a sand beach is on your list, be certain to ask before making the trip. Many beaches are coral - and therefore not walkable - or are only accessible at low tide.  Nippers on Guana Cay is a winner - but you will have to walk through the poolside all-music-all-the-time outdoor restaurant. (There's a smaller indoor restaurant if you need some AC & sanity!)

 

We spent a wonderful afternoon with our new found friends the Wells walking and snorkeling. Nine year old Jonathan, number 9 of 9, wanted to see if we could bury him, which Karen proceeded to do. 

 

Steve had a heck of a time pulling him out. Must be time to get back to the gym!

 

Finally we ended up at Man O War Cay. Founded in 1780 by Loyalists who left the Carolinas, the  island's 400 residents are still a close knit group, in fact 70% of the Alburys (easily the island's MOST commmon name) can trace their ancestry to the 1st Alburys who settled here in 1816.  (VERY CLOSE - I'm just saying.) Albury boats are known throughout the Abacos as the most sturdy and well riding means of transport. 

The island is a mere 2-1/2 miles long and about 100 meters wide, with wonderful sandy beaches and a long protective Harbour that will protect you in any wind. There's also an amazing grocery store which will gladly order most anything you could need with 48-hour notice. (Boaters  - you know how diffucult it is to provision in the Bahamas!)

We love the food at the Dock and Dine. The Albury Canvas Shop is famous for its bags. Joe Albury sells his coveted handcrafted items. Andy Albury, of Albury Designs, creates half hulls on spec, as did his daddy, along with wonderful solid furniture.  Other shops offer food and well crafted items from M-O-W-ers,  as well as other Bahamians. 

With ferry transport, homes to rent and a fantastic harbor, M-O-W should be on everyone's list. But bring your own liquor.  This proudly conservative, god fearing island does not sell liquor. Although a glass of wine or beer can be bought with a meal, you'll be so relaxed, you won't miss it - promise! 

Abaco Bahamas - So Many Islands!

Harbour Island, Eleuthera - Oh the Colors!

 

Every Bahamanian Island settlement has its own personality. On Harbour Island you're immediatly struck by the calming beauty of pastel colored wooden cottages that overflow with lush flowering tropical foliage. 

 

Every winding street has a story to tell. Whether it's St John's Anglican Church, established in 1767 and the oldest on the island, or one of its British Loyalist clapboard homes.  

 

Colorful murals celebrate, decorate or draw you inside.  Feel free to explore. Residents are happy to chat, laugh and tell you stories, even if you're "only looking". Well, okay, you might find boxes made of shells  or colorfully embroidered rayan for your granddaughters.  

 

When you're done, indulge in some time at the pink sand beaches or by the pool with a glass of iced tea and maybe a sketch pad that has been sitting idle for too long. 

The restaurants are many and all wonderful. Sip-Sip is a colorful lunchtime favorite, on top of the eastern shore cliffs, looking down where wild horses run on endless pristine pink sand beaches.  (You WANT the lobster quesadilla!) That's Harbour Island. 

Across Devil's Backbone to Harbour Island

 

After a couple of peaceful days anchoring in the Berry Islands, we're off to Eleuthera.

 

 Like most anticipating this tricky crossing, we stop at Spanish Wells to pick up a guide to assist us in navigating the Devil's Backbone coral heads between the Berry and Eleuthera islands. The guide ties his much smaller boat onto your stern, takes over as captain and he speeds away maneuvering the unmarked coral. One false turn and you better be ready to swim. There's no Tow Boat US or coastguard here. We've relied  on Bandit to guide us since our first crossing in 2006 - AND......

 

 

to supply us with Stone Crab claws -  deliciously sweet, larger than you'll ever see and as fresh as they come. When we're really lucky, "Mrs Bandit" sends along coconut bread. 

 

 Spanish Wells itself is worth a stop. It's first settlers were of Scottish descent, unexpectedly landing here when shipwrecked crossing the Devil's Backbone on their way from the Bahamas to Eleuthera in 1647. (They should have called Bandit!) They were followed in the mid-1700s by British Loyalists escaping America. (Yup - you read that right.) 

Today Spanish Wells is the primary settlement on St George's Cay with a population just under 2,000. They remain primarily of British descent, Caucasian with a very specific accent and dialect, all of which makes the island and its inhabitants unique within the Bahamas. The majority of its youth leave the island for a college education with over 95% returning to live here. Commercial fishing, lobster and stone crabs are their primary industries. The settlement was dry until about 5 years ago, when they opened up to tourism.  So we suggest you skip the Stone Crabs on South Beach and put Spanish Wells on your list. You can always fly to Eleuthera and ask Bandit to bring you across - who knows, maybe he'll offer you Stone Crabs and coconut bread!

 

Great Harbour Cay

 

The northern reaches of the Berry Islands are a delight. Very few of the islands are developed. Great Harbour Cay is one of the larger islands, with a perfect marina  - excellent in a storm, has everything you need, but not so sophisticated that you forget your in the Bahamas.  

 

Three times a month, the mail boat arrives from Nassau. Pallets move all matter of provisions to a variety of transport, as cars and vans crowd the pier awaiting their turn.  The local "all age" school boasts coat of arms, pictured here. Everyone is feeling festive!

 

We pedal over to the islands east side to the Beach Club restaurant.  Positioned along a beautifully arching ribbon of white sand and 80-degree turquoise water, it's well worth the effort. The fish is fresh, the freshly made plump burgers delicious and the Art Shack boasts local artisans creations.  Patrons drive, pedal, jet ski and wade in from anchored boats. Open for breakfast and lunch, life is truly a beach here.  

 

Our other find was Carriearl Boutique Hotel and Restaurant. Angie and her husband came here from the U.K. before the economic crash and then decided to stay on. The surroundings, company and food was so superbly spot on, we came back for a second evening. 

Great Harbour can be the perfect spot for those who want beautiful surroundings, a few modern conveniences and a true Bahamian experience.  We'll be back, so just let us know.   

We are on the Water!

 

May 7, we departed Useppa on Blue Chip, which will essentially be "home" for the next six weeks.  

 

First stop is Little Shark River, part of the Everglades 10,000 Islands National Park. The wildlife and birds are incredible here.  Needless to say, you are miles from man-made light, there's no internet and hope that your GPS is working or you could find yourself amongst these mangrove islands indefinitely! 

 

 

Birds on stakes mark the way as we cruise from west to east through the northern Keys shallow waters near Islemorada. 

Next stop Miami and on to the Bahamas. 

A world colored differently

A week in the Bahamas, in the Abacos with our Useppa friends, Kurt and Kathleen. Marsh Harbour has terrific provisioning.  Hope Town has a Bahamian twist on Victorian gingerbread. Turtle Cay's museum is simply never open. Man of War is populated by American Loyalists - Brits kicked out of the US after the Revolutionary War - and Guana Cay's endless beach is a prize. But it's the unimaginable colors of water that is truly unforgettable AND indescribable. It is a different world. 

It can't be!

What are the chances?

Tempted by the Hope Town Inn and Marina's outdoor trellised restaurant, we wander off Blue Chip and who do we run into, but the Dimmitts! Fellow Useppan residents, Richard and Doreen, were escaping for a long weekend of R&R to this quant town with Victorian cottages on Elbow Cay. Having come here for many years, they shared the best places for the essentials - pies, ice cream and snacks. Here they are water shuttling across with the Dohertys to the other side of the harbor.

You never know who you might meet.

Saturday? Opti racing day!

A tropical Saturday without sailing?Never! Here in Hope Town on Elbow Cay in the Abacos, the young opti sailors are off.

The big question is whose manning Bill's Grill to feed those hungry sailors upon their return.

Bahamas - What a crew!

Carol and Jim Doherty are frequent Blue Chip crew. This is their first Bahamas assignment. Starting in the Berry's Bimini, we then went onto Chub Cay and anchored out during a rough night at Alder Cay. Onto the Abacos to dodge the winds, we continued onto a protected evening at Little Harbour and today the ever charming Hope Town and a well deserved evening out.

Every stop has had something unique to offer. So many wonderful sites, experiences and people. It really is hard to beat! Just ask the crew who would say - "You should wish that you were here!"

Before and After

On Monday we waited for the monsoon rains to pass and left from Miami, Florida for Bimini, Bahamas in the Berry Islands. Just 50 miles in three short hours. Can you tell which is which?