Biking near Venice

We love to bike when on vacation and our friends Jim and Debbie, who were with us in Venice, are serious bikers - so what's more natural than to put together a 4-day biking trip of the nearby mainland? It's an opportunity to see the countryside and work off some of those calories we've been accumulating.

The countryside in this area is relatively flat. The River Po, its tributaries and canals mean that it is ideal for agriculture. Many would say this area is Italy's breadbasket. We certainly saw acres of corn, grain, pear and other fruit trees 

 ....and of course sunflowers. 

Stopping each evening in various small historical towns along the way gave a different dimension to our trip to date. The classic architecture of Mantova's town square was elegantly statuesque. 

Of course there are lunch stops along the way. Although often an Osteria in a small village, the owners of this riverside gathering spot went to their home to make us local specialties - pumpkin filled ravioli like pasta, fresh ricotta and greens tortellini, two kinds of sweet orange melon and prosciutto crudo that will spoil you forever. 

Ferrara is one of the few castles in Europe surrounded by water, the moat filled by a series of underground pipes from the nearby Vilano River Po. It's amazingly well preserved, regularly hosting art and music events. 

The entrance to Ferrera's charming town square entices with playful umbrellas. Note, August is Italy's holiday month, so these tables will begin filling up around 10 with children and adults of all ages and stay full until the wee hours, well past our "early" American bedtime. 

Chioggia and the charming 100 year old Hotel Grand Italia has brought us full circle. The vaporetto stop next to the water will bring you to the beaches of Lido or the northern shores of Venice, with its unmistakable cluster of terra cotta roofs, readily visible as they curve toward the horizon. Just beyond are the outline of the alps. 

It's been four interesting, but quite warm and tiring days of bike riding. We're questioning how many calories we actually worked off. Ciclismo Classico was as good at finding eateries as they were planning our itinerary! We thank Debby & Jim for letting us tag along. This time tomorrow we'll be back in Boston on our way to a James Taylor concert at Fenway, wondering where the time went!

Murano - Burano - Venice

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Venice is lovely anytime of year, but please don't forget the nearby islands. Buying a daily or weekly pass provides unlimited access to Venice and almost anything reachable by vaporetto - or water-bus. 

Murano is a 30 minute trip from the northern shore of Venuce. The center of town is marked with this unmistakeable blue glass sculpture. There is the glass factory museum and many shops. For the very fortunate, look for an opportunity to visit a working glass artists studio. 

Lino Tagliapietra was born and raised on Murano. For some years he has lived in Seattle, combining traditional techniques with avant guard approaches to art glass. He has galleries in London and the US, but it is his new gallery on Murano, run by his son Silvano, that provides an intimate view of his work. Lino is considered by most to be the best living glass blower of our time. 

These are some of his newer vessels. Pieces are usually blown (hot work)in the United States, but often the fine engraving (cold work) which gives these pieces their uniquely fine detail, are sent back to Murano and its artisans. 

Lino has tremendous variety in his work. This 6 foot panel, remiscent of a Gustav Klimt piece actually has tremendous depth. If your lucky, there is also a personal upstairs gallery that is a mini retrospective. 

Amy West is a Midwest born and raised artist who came to Murano some years ago. Her work also varies from finely etched vessels to translucent water and cloud colored gem like beads that are strung together into jewelry that seems to almost float around the neck. I'm particularly attracted to her opaque River stones, which are modeled after the variety found along specific rivers in the region. Her work is found in galleries in London, New York and Boston. 

And then there is Burano. Traditionally known for lace making, you can still find lovely fabrics here. But it is the boldly colored houses that can be seen reflected in the canal water that will make your jaw drop! 

It's said the origin of these brightly colored buildings was to guarantee finding one's way home even in the deepest fog. Today the weave a maze you will be happy to get lost in. 

Back in Venice, there is always something new to see. The Bienalle Architettura Venice is currently happening. The 2016 theme is "Reporting From the Front," which is an investigation into the role of architects in the battle to improve the living conditions for people all over the world. The theme aims to focus on architecture which works within the constraints presented by a lack of resources, and those designs which subvert the status quo to produce architecture for the common good - no matter how small the success." 

The results are amazing. Besides the country specific Pavillion installations, there is the multi country Arsenale, which I often like better. Besides these more abstract ideas, the artists also referenced yurt villages in Mongolia, massive refugee solutions and Kumba Mella in India which is in its own way a "city" when 100 million regularly gather for a 55 day pilgrimage celebration. And yes, MIT was also represented here. 

The islands of Venice and its surrounds. Simply amazing! We were so fortunate to have our 5 precious days here. 

The Merchant of Venice - The Idea that Launched our Trip

Last October Karen was visiting Venice and heard that in celebration of the 500th anniversary of the Venice ghetto and the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare's birth, the Merchant of Venice would be performed outdoors at the Venice Ghetto in English. Besides a number of related activities, Ruth Bader Ginsberg would preside at a mock trial of Shylock, Antonio and Portia. Certainly a very tempting proposition.  Then we discovered MIT's humanities department was intimately involved along with PBS, the BBC, Columbia and Ca’ Foscari University. How could we miss this?

Landing in Venice is in itself a special experience. Flying over the Adriatic Sea in preparation for landing on the last piece of the mainland that will link you to this magical city of islands, you approach looking down on farmland that turns into lacy appearing lagoons and ultimately the islands that comprise Venice. 

We stayed at Ca' Sagredo along the Grand Canal in the Cannaregio area, close to the Ghetto Nuevo in the northwest part of Venice and a good 15 minute walk from the crowds of St. Mark's square. What a magnificent hotel and convenient venue just far enough away from the stifling crowds. 

The performance was an insightful and unique interpretation by Ca’ Foscari University. We did our homework beforehand both reading the text and watching the Al Pacine, Jeremy Irons version on DVD - highly recommended. The story is often thought to reflect negatively on people of Jewish heritage. However, particularly seen through the lens of today's xenophobic events, it begs the question if Shakespeare was in fact thinking about how those that are thought of as "different" are perceived and unfairly treated. 

Steve had his moment with Supreme Court Justice Ginsberg. They compared notes on her time at Harvard Law School as one of the first female students, along with  Steve's cousin. 

The trial with the US Ambassadir to Italy, along with three other Italian and US dignitaries or academics as judges, three as prosecutors and two as commentariats had everyone on the edge of their seat.  We won't tell you the judges' decision, you can get that from bthe New York Times, but we will say the event was as memorable as the play. 

A tour of three of the original remaining synagogues still used today was incredibly interesting, along with explanations of the ghetto's evolution. Jewish people found Venice and the surrounding area as a relatively safe haven from persecution as early as the 13th century. The Ghetto, which means foundary, was an area where scrap ores had been kept. At the time, the then powerful city of Venice was encouraging immigration and welcomed the Jewish people. In the 16th century, the Ghetto was a mutually agreed upon area between the Jewish community and the Italin government. It created a safe haven for the much persecuted Jewish people from the rest of Europe. Jewish people were restricted in their profession so as not to compete with Italians. They were locked in behind the Ghetto's gates after nightfall, which served both parties. It's  doors were permanently opened by Napolean in 1747, when there were as many as 5,000 living here. Today there are less than 400 Venetsin Jews. 

Our group of six MIT event sponsors enjoyed a private tour of the Guggenheim, which even Steve found interesting. Peggy Guggenheim was an orphan of the Titanic, Jewish and a woman ahead of her time who marched to the  tune of a different drummer. She famously purchased more than one art piece per day to protect the art  from possible destruction by the Nazis. 

The Dodge's Apartment Palazzo Ducale's fantastic exhibit "Venice the Jews and Europe 1516 to 2016". The content, technology and insight was superb. 

In all we had a fantastic time and met wonderful people. We learned a tremendous amount and are grateful to all those who conceived and executed this anniversary event. We would do it again in a second!

 

Zurich - the Capital of Switzerland

            

Karen had never been and Steve was there on a McKinsey assignment for about 5 months, well a really long time ago. So while we were in the neighborhood, why not take the 50 minute train ride from Lucerne to Zurich?

                      

As we walk from the Park Hyatt near Lake  Zurich, to the old town, we wait for the iron man (or person, if we were being politically correct) to pass. Public athletics seems to be a theme in so many places we have visited making us feel just a tiny bit guilty about the daily afternoon gelato. This lovely enamel piece, on the right above, reminds us of the iconic alphorn. Note the blue and white flag, which is on a diagonal, which is specific to Zurich's canton. (What is Massachusets state flag, again?)

                              

The old town along the Limmat River, has charming cobbled walking streets for both tourists and residents alike. The merchant guild houses, dating back to as early as 1303, often have restaurants or places to stop for a cocktail down below, providing a chance to look out over the 22 mile Limmat River which joins Lake Zurrich or Zurichsee.

                   

 Besides sidewalk cafes, there are numerous shops, walls painted with frescos of days gone by and the occasional embellished dairy cow. Naturally watches can be found in abundance. We couldn't resist these vintage Mickys. What's interesting is how few digital options you see, clearly showing a preference for the country's long time watch heritage.

                   

What trip to Zurich would be complete without fondue? The charming, whitewashed, Le Dezaley has been opened since 1903. Their mix of Gruyere and Vacherin Fribourgeois, which has a full, distinctive flavor and does not make the sauce stringy, with a dash of Fendant or Sauvignon Blanc is just as Steve  remembered, and you will too! 

                     

The distinctive Fraumunster is one of the oldest religious buildings in Zurich, founded on July 21, 853 as a Benedictine convent, with sisters Hildegard and then Bertha as its first two abbesses. The Abby's great importance is reflected by the 11th century royal decree, granting it the right to mint coins, hold markets and collect tolls. From the 13th century, the incumbent abyss was also the formal ruler of the city of Zurich and given the title of imperial princess.  The era ended with the Reformation of 1524, the last abbess handing over the keys and all its assets to the city of Zurich. At this time the altars were removed and the central pulpit added transforming the Frauminster into a Reformed Protestant church, which it still is today. There is an impressive 29 foot tall stained created in 1903 by the Swiss artist, Augusto Giacometti. However, it is the Jewish artist Marc Chagall's rose window and five stained glass windows depicting scenes from the Old Testament, along with the birth and death of the Redeemer that helps to attract over 500,000 visitors each year. The windows were inaugurated in 1970 in the presence of the then 83-year-old Chagall, of which Picasso said, "Somewhere on the other side of his head there must be an angel."

                       

The Kunsthaus Zurich contains one of Zurich's most important art collections. The museum's collection spans centuries.  My particular favorite is the Giacometti collection. Although it focuses on Augusto, there are also works of his father, the post impressionist painter Giovanni, and his younger brother Diego. The contemporary collection is housed in an impressive airy space and a new building has begun across the street. Outside Rodin's Gates of Hell are installed. Overall an impressive and comprehensive art museum that's well worth a trip and is an easy walk from the more tourist filled areas. And, if you're feeling adventurous and looking for panoramic views, you can take the nearby cog train up into the hills.

In th evening we  took the short drive up to Sonnenberg to revisit where Steve and Sharon once had an apartment when he lived here while working for McKinsey. The views of Lake Zurich, with the beginning of the alps were almost as incredible as he remembered.  

        

The nearby stately Dolder Grand, built in 1905, is beautiful and certainly worth a visit, if not to stay for its spa and surroundings, at least for a cocktail and the view. Its sister hotel and restaurant slightly down the mountain, Walhuas Dolder, can be reached from town by cog train but is about to be closed for a major renovation. 

                      

Zurich is considered one of the world's most livable cities.  It may be Switzerland's largest, but with a population of less than 500,000, you'll never feel closed in. So whether you prefer the old historical areas or the contemporary, the Limmat River or Lake Zurich, you will be simply delighted with a visit here. 
    

 

   

  

Glacier Express and Lucerne

           

          

The Glacier Express is an express train connecting two of the major Swiss Alps ski resorts, Zermatt and St Moritz/Davos.  We took boarded for a morning's trip from Zermatt to Andermatt. Even with the light rain, it was a stunning outing. Along the way, headsets keep you apprised of interesting places and history. One of the most memorable was the folklore of the Devil's Bridge, the bottom line of which is that a goat  herder tricked the devil into accepting the soul of a goat, instead of a human soul. The devil gathered the largest rock he could find to destroy the bridge he had built, but a women making the sign of the cross so distracted him, that the boulder crashed to the ground, missing the bridge. In 1977, the 220 ton boulder was moved 127 meters at the cost of 330,000 Swiss franc to make room for the Gotthard Road Tunnel, so maybe the devil got the last laugh after all. 

Andermatt  is a stunning yet sleepy town, which was much ignored since the opening of the Gotthard Railway Tunnel in 1881. Other rail and car tunnels have kept it off many travelers lists, but it has also kept it remarkably well preserved.  It truly is worth a visit. Try the Baren Restaurant and Rooms.  

      

Then onto Lucern, where the Reuss River meets Lake Lucerne, which is 24 miles long, 700 feet at its deepest point and joins four cantons (states).  The flower bedecked 669 foot wooden Chapel Bridge, with its Wasserturm, or water tower,  has linked the two shores since the 15th century. Painted panels fitted into the many wooden eaves tell the story of that time. If you're in a hurry for the train, or not that interested in history,  you can take the contemporary Seebrucke overpass, used by city dwellers, bicyclist and commuters alike, which provides great views in both directions. 

                     

Many of the Alstad (Old City) buildings have painted facades that go back to the 14th century and days of the guilds, where images on the outside reflected the business being conducted inside. You certainly won't want to miss the market along the river, where young and old come for everything from Sonnenblumen (sunflowers) to berries (the way you remember they used to taste), breads, cheeses, pastas and meats. But don't miss the art museums, of which there are several to choose from. A personal favorite was the classic modernist Museum Samlung Rosengart, an extensive private collection of Paul Klee, as well as Picasso, with whom both Angela and her father, Siegfried, had a long lasting relationship. Among the many unique pieces are the original metal plates with prints Picasso did of Angela and rare photos of his studio and wedding day pictures with Jacqueline, taken by Picasso's American friend David Duncan Douglas. 

The city seems always in the midst of conducting  an art, music or theatre festival. The Blue Balls (we're not sure exactly what got lost in the translation) music festival had multiple venues with a wide variety of contemporary music happening all over town while we were there.  Book a room at the majestic lakeside Scweizerhof Hotel, where Mark Twain stayed, and treat yourself to dinner at an amazing hilltop lake view from The Montana - which refers to mountains, not the US West.  

      

While in the area, take the 150 year old cogwheel train, the world's steepest, traveling at grades as steep as 48-degrees and 2 sets of cable cars to the top of Mount Pilatus. You'll pass grazing cows with mammoth bells and beautiful scenery as you make your way up to the iconic Hotel Pilatus, which opened its doors in 1890. Theodore Roosevelt and Queen Victoria were among its early guests. 

The naming of this mountain derives from several lores. One is that Pontius  Pilate's remains are here, after being moved from various international locations. (His legacy made him not particularly popular and it is supposed that up in these mountains his remains could do no harm.) A medieval legend refers to dragons with healing powers and enormous golden wings living in the mountains. The name may also have simply been derived from "pilateus " which means "cloud topped". 

       

On a clear day, the view to Lucerne is said to be spectacular. You can climb from the Pilatus Hotel to Orenhaupt (6913 feet) or Esel (6953 feet) and, on the day we were there, climb above the clouds. The descent is steep, but the experience worth it! 

Overall, Lucerne is a breathtaking city with incredible surroundings of natural beauty which inspired Wagner's Ring Cycle. Hills with beautiful old castle-like buildings tumble down to the lake as far as the eye can see. Walt Disney came here every few years for inspiration and the iconic White Castle of Sleeping Beauty and international Disney Park fame is styled after  Lucerne's Gutsch Castle. 

Tolstoy said of his visit to Lucerne in 1857, "On arriving in my room and opening the window facing the lake, the beauty of this water and of this day in the first moment literally blinded and then shook me. I experienced an internal unrest and the necessity of giving some expression to that superabundance with which my heart brimmed over."

 

    

   

The Matterhorn

          

We spent two lovely days in Zermatt, a charming German speaking ski, hiking and climbing town of 5,800 in the Swiss Alps 5,300 feet above sea level. Only accessible by train, all transportation in town is walking or electrical vehicles. Besides the pristine air and cool evenings, the summer's big draw is taking the 150 year old cog wheel train, the highest open-air railway in Europe, up to Gornergrat which is a little over 10,000 feet. And YES, the air is a little thin up there. 

                          

And what's that vaguely familiar peak behind us? That would be the Matterhorn, 14,691 feet above sea level! And no, we did NOT feel compelled to do the final climb to the top of this mountain that straddles Switzerland and Italy. Although there had been numerous attempts, the first successful ascent of the Matterhirm was  made in 1865 from Zermatt by a party led by Edward Whymper but ended disastrously when four of its members fell to their deaths on the descent. There is still debate and intrigue around what truly occurred.

         

The Gorner Glacier spills down between the cliffs we see on the horizon, of which there are more than  20 peaks reaching over 13,00 feet high which you can see from Gorengratt. Not surprisingly, there's also weather and solar stations up here, many joint international projects.

                   

After fortifying with delicious fondue ( when's the last time you used long forks to skewer bread and dip it into molten cheese!) we considered justifying our lunch with a mountain bike ride down the hill, but decided the salad we shared must have neutralized at least part of our Gruyere and Emmentaler, so we opted for a short hike instead. 

        

After Steve pinched the top of the Materhorn to show how BIG a guy he really is, we were off!

  

       

We were told the top most part from Gernergrat to Rotenboden at 9,200 feet was the least steep, so of we went with confident smiles on our faces. 

                                     

What everyone forgets to mention is how slippery those rocks can be above the tree line. 

        

Steve continues, determined to find ice cream. 

                                    

I suggest snow instead of ice cream and, well, you can see Steve's enthusiastic response!

                       

I'm much more interested in finding the miniscul flowers growing between the rocks above the treeline. With temperatures that easily dip, strong winds, snow and little rainfall. It's incredible to see these bright spots of color. 

                       

Finally we get to Rotenboden. Whoever said it was an easy 45 minute hike from the top was clearly not from Boston! We met people with serious gear who'd been climbing rick face and glaciers for days. There were also families with children, even really young kiddos, hiking down, but clearly with all the right equipment. (If we do this again, we're clearly looking into collapsible hiking poles!) And still there's no ice cream! 

        

So, we are back on the cog train and heading down the hill to Zermott. Oh, and by the way, the next stretch from Rotenboden to Riffelborg is clearly easier hiking. Grass and scrub begins to appear, allowing for actual hiking trails. Next time!

        

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Once back down in Zermott, we hear the clanging of bells as the local 4-H chapter brings home the goats who have been nibbling away at the grasses on the surrounding hills. And not to worry, Steve did finally get his chocolate gelato.  

Even if you are not a skier, Zermott is one of those places you should stop by at some point in your life. And consider staying for  awhile. Tens of thousands do every year!