Murano - Burano - Venice

I

Venice is lovely anytime of year, but please don't forget the nearby islands. Buying a daily or weekly pass provides unlimited access to Venice and almost anything reachable by vaporetto - or water-bus. 

Murano is a 30 minute trip from the northern shore of Venuce. The center of town is marked with this unmistakeable blue glass sculpture. There is the glass factory museum and many shops. For the very fortunate, look for an opportunity to visit a working glass artists studio. 

Lino Tagliapietra was born and raised on Murano. For some years he has lived in Seattle, combining traditional techniques with avant guard approaches to art glass. He has galleries in London and the US, but it is his new gallery on Murano, run by his son Silvano, that provides an intimate view of his work. Lino is considered by most to be the best living glass blower of our time. 

These are some of his newer vessels. Pieces are usually blown (hot work)in the United States, but often the fine engraving (cold work) which gives these pieces their uniquely fine detail, are sent back to Murano and its artisans. 

Lino has tremendous variety in his work. This 6 foot panel, remiscent of a Gustav Klimt piece actually has tremendous depth. If your lucky, there is also a personal upstairs gallery that is a mini retrospective. 

Amy West is a Midwest born and raised artist who came to Murano some years ago. Her work also varies from finely etched vessels to translucent water and cloud colored gem like beads that are strung together into jewelry that seems to almost float around the neck. I'm particularly attracted to her opaque River stones, which are modeled after the variety found along specific rivers in the region. Her work is found in galleries in London, New York and Boston. 

And then there is Burano. Traditionally known for lace making, you can still find lovely fabrics here. But it is the boldly colored houses that can be seen reflected in the canal water that will make your jaw drop! 

It's said the origin of these brightly colored buildings was to guarantee finding one's way home even in the deepest fog. Today the weave a maze you will be happy to get lost in. 

Back in Venice, there is always something new to see. The Bienalle Architettura Venice is currently happening. The 2016 theme is "Reporting From the Front," which is an investigation into the role of architects in the battle to improve the living conditions for people all over the world. The theme aims to focus on architecture which works within the constraints presented by a lack of resources, and those designs which subvert the status quo to produce architecture for the common good - no matter how small the success." 

The results are amazing. Besides the country specific Pavillion installations, there is the multi country Arsenale, which I often like better. Besides these more abstract ideas, the artists also referenced yurt villages in Mongolia, massive refugee solutions and Kumba Mella in India which is in its own way a "city" when 100 million regularly gather for a 55 day pilgrimage celebration. And yes, MIT was also represented here. 

The islands of Venice and its surrounds. Simply amazing! We were so fortunate to have our 5 precious days here. 

Venice + Glass = Murano

         

With a flag like this, Venetians are letting you know their creativity doesn't stay within boundaries. You can spend weeks here and not see every gallery and museum. Then there are the churches and Palazzos, easily worth another two weeks. MIT's glass lab director, Peter Houk, brings us to the island of Murano - known worldwide for its glass. 

                     

Lino Tagliapietra is easily considered THE Master Glassblower of Murano, and many would say of the world. In his 80's, he's been living for a number of years in Seattle. We were met by his son Silvano to view some of the latest work in his new gallery next to the family home.  His pieces can be over six feet long or four feet tall; utilizing traditional along with new, etched, carved and combining methods so extreme that to see a body of his work, you would think that it represented a dozen different artists. And that's what he's worked on recently. Nearly every year Lino and his team come to MIT to work through glass challenges, some of which have led to his innovations. For the students (and for me), watching and working with team Tagliapietra is pure magic! 

                    

Amy West is originally from the US mid-west, but has been on Murano for over a decade. She too has a variety of styles AND is a woman - two highly unusual factors for a Murano Glassblower. That she is so well regarded amongst her Italian peers as an American is unheard of. Although much of her work is translucent, these pictured pieces are from her Riverrock series and reflect particular stones from the nearby mountains. If her work looks familiar, it may be because she was included in a Conde Naste's what-not-to-miss-in-Venice. Or because more than one MOMO curator has purchased her work. Personally, I couldn't resist. Amy is visiting Boston this Fall and will be having a show on Charles Street.  She's planning to stay at "Kaufman Arms", so let me know if you would like a preview. And by the way - she's absolutely lovely!

                   

Murano glass is as diverse as its artists. Like many arts oriented locations, particularly in Venice, it is a skill that is taught by senior artisans. Because people are moving away from Venuce, there is less opportunity to pass skills that have literally evolved over hundreds of years. Make your way to Murano - 20 minutes by vaparetto. Enjoy escaping from the hectic crowds that are Venice. Wander the streets beyond the shops (ok, don't forget the Scent Sisters), the restaurants and the galleries and get a brief glimpse into a way of life that has existed on this island for nearly 2,000 years.