Biking near Venice

We love to bike when on vacation and our friends Jim and Debbie, who were with us in Venice, are serious bikers - so what's more natural than to put together a 4-day biking trip of the nearby mainland? It's an opportunity to see the countryside and work off some of those calories we've been accumulating.

The countryside in this area is relatively flat. The River Po, its tributaries and canals mean that it is ideal for agriculture. Many would say this area is Italy's breadbasket. We certainly saw acres of corn, grain, pear and other fruit trees 

 ....and of course sunflowers. 

Stopping each evening in various small historical towns along the way gave a different dimension to our trip to date. The classic architecture of Mantova's town square was elegantly statuesque. 

Of course there are lunch stops along the way. Although often an Osteria in a small village, the owners of this riverside gathering spot went to their home to make us local specialties - pumpkin filled ravioli like pasta, fresh ricotta and greens tortellini, two kinds of sweet orange melon and prosciutto crudo that will spoil you forever. 

Ferrara is one of the few castles in Europe surrounded by water, the moat filled by a series of underground pipes from the nearby Vilano River Po. It's amazingly well preserved, regularly hosting art and music events. 

The entrance to Ferrera's charming town square entices with playful umbrellas. Note, August is Italy's holiday month, so these tables will begin filling up around 10 with children and adults of all ages and stay full until the wee hours, well past our "early" American bedtime. 

Chioggia and the charming 100 year old Hotel Grand Italia has brought us full circle. The vaporetto stop next to the water will bring you to the beaches of Lido or the northern shores of Venice, with its unmistakable cluster of terra cotta roofs, readily visible as they curve toward the horizon. Just beyond are the outline of the alps. 

It's been four interesting, but quite warm and tiring days of bike riding. We're questioning how many calories we actually worked off. Ciclismo Classico was as good at finding eateries as they were planning our itinerary! We thank Debby & Jim for letting us tag along. This time tomorrow we'll be back in Boston on our way to a James Taylor concert at Fenway, wondering where the time went!

We made it!

"Pictograms" became a regular part of the morning briefing as we all attempt to translate bike-guide-speak. Part of it may be the accents of our ever so charming Spanish, Italian, Irish and South African guides, however I'm convinced the bigger issue is a fine line between encouraging one to increase their ability and not fully underestimating the condition of some of our joints. 

The reality, the guides couldn't be better, both in terms of encouragement AND willingness to hoist bikes on top of vans when the going was simply too rough. We continued to travel the west coast of Mallorca, each day traversing the mountain range down to the coast. Above you see us at Port Soller, which has a beautifully arched harbor, with old wooden trolley cars,  a busy beach and more tourists than we've seen,  but still charming. 

Back up in the hills, we stay in Deia at La Residencia. The hotel feels like a series of stone homes, carved into the mountain side. Finally there is a few hours of rest for the weary, but the idyllic hilltop of Deia calls. Once the home of Anais Nin, it later became a retreat for musicians and artists after the first world war. The church atop the hill closes the loop for the ceramic stations of the cross  imbedded on walls and the sides of homes that line the town's only real road. (No I didn't draw this, but maybe someday.)

Each day has its own unique WOW moment. It might be a particularly spectacular view, access to a private art collection, visiting a winery or cocktails at the home of one of our hotel's architect. More than once, it has been the ride itself. Accomplishing an uphill climb you couldn't have done a few days before is a thrill. (The knees do get better and some cadence coaching from a Mallorcan Olympic  multiple time medal winner certianly helps.) The views down to the sea and through the mountains, as we learn to handle the speed that comes with a 8 mile switchback descent, is as unforgettable as anything else we experience. We continue to Valdemossa, Banyalbufar, Estellences and Port d'Andratx. 

Steve's biggest WOW may have been the 4 hour transfer from Port d'Andratx back to Palma on a 137 foot ketch. As we round Mallorca's southern tip, we are blown away by the explosion of development. Fully developed beach resorts appear, with all the tall buildings needed to accomodate the island's 10-million annual guests. 

However, our boat glides by to the eastern shore, as we duck civilization for just a bit longer. The Cap Roca Hotel is a fortress that was designed to protect Palma's port. Hidden from the water's view, you land on the beach and make your way up to something never experienced before. Besides its physical attributes, it acts as a fortress from the world and it's worries. The simple and beautifully appointed space has Morrococan and Arabic overtones. The infinity pool overlooks the sea. The optional outside canopied barley bed is a tempting alternative but it's the continental breakfast that arrives in multiple baskets to be eaten on our patio that really impresses. 

There's a last push to ride to Porreres and Algaida before going into Palma for the evening. We all do our best to stay awake at our last dinner at Puro Beach. 

The last morning, we take a quick drive into Palma.  The Gothic cathedral impresess. It is one of the few that is actually built on the coast, rather than in the middle of the city.  The result is that it's full facade can be seen, which adds to its grandeur.  Antonio Gaudi, the famous Spanish Catalan Modernist from the late 1800s, helped to redesign its open airy interior. 

Mallorca has proven to be an amazing place. We would welcome the opportunity to return. Anyone interested?

Barge, bike, break - repeat

Finding a rhythm that suits a family age to two to - well a LOT older - could be a challenge. Some need to burn off steam, others need to mitigate a huge increase in caloric intake - read the chef is REALLY good and we lack discipline. 

Thank goodness for biking! Nearly everyday, all six of us don helmets and make our way to one of the locks, where there is generally less than three minutes to get bikes and riders loaded off of, or onto, the barge before it either drops or the gate opens. 

As you might imagine, Mr. Steve has carefully measured barge to lock "cycle time". And, yes there have been a few mistimed entries. (Steve has some theories on how to improve the process.) But, in the end, no worries. We can generally paddle faster then the barge can move. 

Besides, who really cares when the scenery is so lovely?