Useppa Thanksgiving Recruits

This year, not only did we make it to Useppa for a LONG Thanksgiving weekend, we brought along 5 willing recruits. Karen's nephews Cal and Tim were joined by their friend Jesse while Crysta was there with her friend Erin. But what to do if your under 30 on an island with no cars or malls?

The boys built a VERY impressive lean two with found items at a small private beach at the island's end. Incredibly impressive and, along with their fishing prowess, proving that these three are definitely the guys you want to have with you if ever shipwrecked.

The girls chose to relax and wowed the islanders with their croquet abilities. They insist it's the first time they've played, but their shots indicated otherwise. Beginners luck, Erin's birthday luck or were they just faking us out? Steve came back with a one stroke shot through the wicket from across the court, but the girls were still tough to beat.

We all had fun. The weather was terrific and the turkey available in abundance. We hope they'll return again for more kayaking, swimming, fishing, exploring and did we mention eating?

Lowcountry Visit

Each year one member from a small group of Steve's McKinsey buds takes their turn to host a Columbus Day weekend trip. Besides the pleasure of relaxing with old friends, it provides an opportunity for a wide variety of experiences.

This year Kiawah Island and nearby Charleston did not disappoint! Traveling through this low-country natural paradise is always one of our favorite legs when bringing Blue Chip north, but we rarely have the chance to stop and explore land-side.

Kiawah is a known for its golf, but it's natural beauty, extravagant bird life, colorful marshland and ten miles of sandy beach packed hard enough to bike ride on, makes it truly special. Dolphins work together to "strand feed", forcing fish onto the shore, where the dolphins follow, wrestling mullet from aggressive pelican's. Observing this unique behavior is just one more reason to explore the Kiawah River via flatsboat or kayak.

And then there is Charleston. Always a pleasure to explore. Horse and buggies keep the traffic moving slow as you pass from one well preserved historic district to another. You endlessly hear tales of people who stopped for a visit and simply never left. Fantastic culture, beautiful design, great restaurants, southern hospitality, 30 miles to Kiawah - who knows?

Story time is the best time!

Video calls undoubtedly help to keep us connected with our granddaughters, but there's no substitute for being with them. Evie models the hat she's most recently obsessed with, gleefully swings as we push her as high as possible and quickly remembers who her Pop-pop and Bubbie are.

Big sister Clara is learning French instead of Mandarin, much to her Pop-pop's chagrin. She's getting so tall that she's rapidly approaching Bubbie Karen's chin. She loves her new teacher and is flourishing!

But at the end of the day everyone shares a meal and snuggles up to read goodnight books. That alone makes a weekend trip to Eugene worthwhile!

Boating crew

We like nothing more than sharing Blue Chip with crew. Karen's family is hardly close by, so having Steve and Kathy join us from Maryland along with Crysta who, has been in Boston getting her Masters, was a super treat! Two weeks later, our Useppa friends, the Trinos, gave us an excuse to visit our mutual friends the Symonds on Cuttyhunk - the outermost of the Elizabeth islands off the coast of Massachusetts Cape Cod. Like Useppa, it's available only by boat, has no cars and folks make their own entertainment. Delightful!

West Virginia - "Color is Magic"

Every couple of years, we have a business engagement that brings us to Virginia's Allegheny Mountains. Here in the middle of nowhere, and I mean NOWHERE, is the Greenbriar - a most unusual resort hotel.

What makes it unforgettable, from the moment you walk in the door, is color AND pattern - everywhere and in abundance - on floors, walls and ceilings. Imagine Lily Pulitzer on steroids and you'll get the general idea. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

In 1778 this resort's sulphur springs offered the cure for its first guests, it closed for the Civil War and was then purchased by the C&O Railway who named it the Greenbriar Hotel. Used as an army hospital in WWII, it was then repurchased by the C&O, who in 1946, gave Dorothy Draper 18 months to transform it. Inclusive of everything from rooms, to uniforms and china, it was the largest redecoration of an American hotel ever undertaken. Architectural Digest declared the end result to be Dorothy Draper's Masterpiece - the Greenbriar had been "Draperized". For fifteen years, Draper personally continued to oversee its design. In the 1960's Carleton Varney joined her firm and has guided the resort's Draperized look ever since.

Being met outside this statuesque, white pillared entrance by black groomsmen gives one pause and a glimpse into a time you thought to be long gone. Throw in a well recognized spa, golf, croquet, tennis, trout fishing, skeet, off roading and a half a dozen in-house restaurants, all in a beautifully landscaped, mountainous setting and you will feel transported into a unique, otherworldly place where somehow it all works. Oh, and of course there is the US government bunker which was secretly built built in1959 and was active until the Cold War's end in 1992. Really.

Want an escape from the ordinary? Can't get enough Lilly P? Then the Greenbriar is for you. But hurry. It has survived bankruptcy and is now owned by West Virginia entrepreneur Jim Justice. Who knows how long this unique ode to color will survive? Catch it while you can.

Record breaking events galore!

Okay, I agree that we've posted a paucity of "wow" photos this trip. But, to give a little perspective, we're in venues with 100,000 - 10,000 people and a LOT of activity. To give you an idea, heres a run down on the Thursday night athletics. It was a bevy of record breaking events. The men and women are simultaneously competing in the decathlon and the individual events that make up the sport, while medal ceremonies are being conducted. Focusing is a real adult ADD challenge!

Not to mention that most of these Olympians are there breaking SPEED records..... You try catching Usaine Bolt's season best 200-meter run, handily winning another gold, with the two other Jamaican teammates taking silver and bronze! Nearly 100,000 of us stood and cheered.

Fastest man in the world? Bolt's charisma certainly gets him press, but Kenya's Rudisha set a new world record that same night for his 800-meter distance. Hey, I can barely run to the end of the block to catch the mailman, so what do I know about running speed?

While javelins were flying, US won the gold and silver men's decathlon medals, with Cuba winning bronze. As all the decathlon competitors took a congratulatory lap, the men's triple jumpers led us in stadium wide claps as they completed their event. US Christian Taylor won that event, with a world record jump distance, followed closely in points by a US silver.

The women were right there with them. Kenya won the 800 meter and the US just missed bronze. Javelins continued to fly, while the races continued. We stood no less than four times that night to sing the American anthem. I think we've finally agreed on all the words!

So, with so much going on, the option was to focus on the field, not the camera. The image here is the queen as interpreted in a jellybean mosaic (seriously) and some of the 2012 Olympic mascots that are making a hit with the younger set.

We're possibly setting a record for most events seen. Steve's superb logistics, fired by his London tube ap, has been faultless!

Jump so high - crouch so low

Twenty events in 8-days of Olympic viewing makes for a wide variety and allowed us to try a few new things along the way.

Basketball matches were closer than predicted. France beat Nigeria 78:73, when just a few days before the US swamped Nigeria 156:73. The crowd was definitely supporting the underdog. We also saw Great Britain sweat it out with China, while the crowd roared for both sides.

Greco Roman versus Freestyle wrestling differences still alludes us. The guys were easily the most emotional we saw, with heads buried in the mat at match's end. Women's freestyle wrestling is a whole other sport - amazingly strong at barely 100 pounds, much more aggressive and with no hesitation at the match's end.

We're grateful that wrestling wasn't WWF style, but doubt we're going to start following the circuit. Basketball on the other hand, was a different game and lots of fun - with some previous US players showing up on unexpected teams.

Net events

Our Olympic travel planner, Mr. SPK himself, has us zipping all over London for a wide variety events. Sports with nets was a recent theme.

Volleyball - pairs, teams, indoor and outside on the beach - we've seen it all! There were some absolute highlights.

Indoors - The US men's team was terrific. Japan women's went neck and neck for an overtime win over China.

Beach volleyball was held at the beautiful Horses Parade with the US pair facing Brazil. The rain held off until the first volley, then a mist turned into a drizzle and the rain gear came out. Everyone stayed. The energy was phenomenal! The US fans cheered, but the Brazilians were deafening. In the end of an incredibly close game, the US won. It was worth the drenching.

Table tennis - worldwide there is no other sport with more participants. 1.3 billion Chinese might be onto something! But you'll have to believe the judges because the ball moves so FAST you can barely see a thing.

Badminton - Is this the same sport we played in our backyards growing up? Fiercely competitive and countless shuttlecocks later a winner emerges.
Two of the best matches - China beats Korea in both singles and doubles. Do you think we could set up a net on Blue Chip?

Olympic friends and farewell

When we first arrived in London, Laurie and Ron Moss had us as their house guests in Notting Hill before we left for Scotland. Once we returned, we checked into a hotel, but joined back up with them for several events. We couldn't have asked for better hosts and had to include the photo of the four if us.

We also visited with Chris and John Incledon at their Weybridge home. Judith and Arthur Walsh shared a magnificent meal with us, as we reminisced about our time earlier this year in Myanmar.

Our Dutch friends were there to cheer on their country. We toasted Xander and Barbara's recent marriage before all leaving for an evening of record breaking athletics.

Kate Middleton joined us - and about 15,000 others - at the pommel horse. We waved, but alas, we had no time for tea. Maybe next time Kate.

Time with friends at the London Olympics will be remembered longer than any specific events. It's part of what made the time here so special. But now we're happy to be heading home to watch the closing celebration from Boston.

Rio? It's only 4 short years away!

Where do you actually go everyday?

The Olympic events are literally scattered in the city's far corners, with some venues much further afield. Many buildings were already here and retro fitted for these events, with the plan to remove the changes after the games are over. The result may be architecturally less astounding than Beijing, but the upside is simpler travel and much more access to amenities once you arrive.

This isn't to say the buildings are boring - far from it. Each is a combination of staid and quirky, like the Brits themselves.

The Olympic Park is host to eight buildings. Somewhat lackluster by day, the area becomes richly atmospheric as the sun goes down. The Aquatics Center's glass turns an elegant, tranquil gold in the evening, reflecting the River Lea that runs along its side. The nearby bubbled roof, belonging to the Water Polo Arena, has nighttime nautical inspired colored changing lights. The open roofed Olympic Stadium hosts athletics, track and field. Again, not much to speak of during the day, but a varied color light show in the evening.

The red "Orbit Tower" was designed by Anish Kapoor. Officially named the ArcelorMittal Orbit, it cost 29.8 million dollars, 25 million coming from Lakshmi Mittal, Britain's richest man. (Nice to have generously wealthy friends!) Standing 376 feet high, it's taller than the Statue of Liberty, but shorter than the Eiffel Tower or Big Ben. Traveling to the top observatory platform takes 34 seconds, although many people opt to wind their way along its internal circular path. Put together by 4 men without scaffolding, the 2 tons of steel, 63% of which is recycled, is covered in 5,019 gallons of red paint. The overall affect goes from whimsical by day to dramatic at night, when the color comes to life and seems to turn the surrounding sky a rich lavender blue. Although many of the Park buildings will come down, this one is a keeper!

The interior photo here is from the inside of O2 Arena in North Greenwich. Holding up to 20,000, this music venue, is one of the largest venues in Europe and the second largest in the UK. Olympic Gymnastics are here and the light shows between events are amazing! Afterwards, you can suit up and climb to the top of this domed stadium, then celebrate at one of the many restaurants below.

These are just a few of the Olympic venues. The varied shapes and colored lights are reminiscent of the creative architecture associate with buildings all along the Thames - setting the mood for fun. US cities take note!

Six Gold Medals

The most ever in a single day for Britain and what was accomplished on day 10 of the 2012 Olympics.

Of course we are extremely excited when the US wins, but what makes the Olympics so special is the enthusiastic cheers and standing ovations by everyone for all outstanding athletes and the excitement at an unexpected upset.

Trampoline was our first sport of the day. The US held on, but then it was Canada and Japan. The last competitor was the favored to win Japanese. She fell off the tramp to gasps from the crowd. Cheers then went up for what was surely two Canadian medals. Then a huge unexpected upset - Gold to a first time Canadian medal winner, with silver and bronze going to Japan, pushing out the 2008 Canadian medal winner. A hum of surprise and then huge cheers all around.

Simultaneously an off the radar event. The synchronized filming event as dozens of cameras move up and down to the movement of the gymnasts. Medal winners TBD.

Swimming in the evening ended that sport for the 2012 Olympic. The events were many, with several outstanding highlights. Women's relay resulted in a strong US gold with Australia and Japan medaling.

The Men's events held the show stoppers. The men's 1500 meter Chinese winner was nearly disqualified when he mistakenly dove into the pool before the start. Sun Yang set a new world record, winning by a full 8 seconds! His boyish excitement sent the entire stadium into non-ending cheers, something to long remember.

Men's relay was the long awaited event of the night. A close US win, included Michael Phelps in what is considered to be his last Olympic trial. A standing ovation from all countries at the win and while team US took their victory walk around the pool. A special Phelp's Olympic tribute followed.

How loud is the cheering? We could hear swells in our the aquatic hiuse from the track stadium on the other side of the red reporting tower - a good 5-7 minute walk. Records were being broken there. British gold was collected by Jessica Ennis for women's heptathlon. Mo Farah's for the 10,000 meter - the first Brit runner to ever win Gold. No wonder the stadium screamed itself hoarse.

What can we say. Win or loose, everyone goes home smiling and inspired.

Nae Grub or Swally on the Bus

.... So leave that tea and scone behind.

Its not the accent, it's the Scottish that will have you saying "excuse me" every few minutes. You "fit out" your house or a picnic basket but "kit out" yourself when going to a party.

The "Tattoo" that was beginning as we leave Edinburgh has nothing to do with needles and ink. Instead, for three weeks 12,000 people will gather daily to watch 1,000 military musicians, dancers and bagpipers from around the world perform at the base of Edinburgh castle. Recognize our piper?

Need something more contemporary? The Fringe Festival, the worlds largest annual art festival, runs during the same time. Dozens of comedy and mostly avant guard and nearly free theater performances are available daily. Art exhibitions and a book festival offer something for everyone.

Want something in between? The Edinburgh Festival offers several weeks of classical music, dance and ballet.

Bottom line - although we enjoyed Glasgow, Edinburgh is the place to be, at least in August. But book ahead. There's a lot "on".

PS. Haggis, a wee bit is a tasty addition to any meal. But, like hot dogs, just don't think too much about how or what there made of.

Icons of Scotland

After nearly a week, we are happy to report that Scotland delivers MOST of what you'd expect.

Want to fit in here linguistically? Add the word "wee" to every other sentence. When a man weighing 225 pounds, or 16 stones, says "you'll be seeing a wee bit o the loch through the rough at the top of the brae", it's hard not to smile. Naturally, he saying that you'll get a glimpse of the lake through the uncultivated land at the top of the hill. You'll also wait a wee bit, sit on a wee chair, walk a wee bit, fill out a wee form and after a long day need a wee dram before a wee rest.

The Kilt and piper live on. We confess, not on every street corner, but enough that we know we're in the UK's northern land. The piper appears in traditional dress, but if you want a kilt in goth black or NYC west village red vinyl, we can fit you out!

Braveheart and the Scotts blue and white flag carry proudly on. It's interesting that after a long and bloody history, there is little reference to those years gone by. However, the vote for succession is again up for referendum. You never know.

Scottish terroirs? Dogs there are a plenty, but we've yet to see a Scotty being walked about.

Scottish food has evolved. Haggis often appears on the menu. Lamb, steak pie and venison abound. We've also had wonderful smoked salmon, smoked poached haddock - both for breakfast. But stovies, cullen skink and cock a leekie soup seem to be meant for country dining. We'll keep searching.

It's light at 5AM and still light now at nearly 10PM. Days are long, which suits us fine because there is much to do. Stay tuned.

Kaufman takes on Nessie

Scotland, as part of the UK, is also hosting a portion of the Olympics. We thought we'd escape here for a few bucolic days, returning to London closer to the event finals. Little did we know that Steve would be drafted into a highly secretive, much feared event - wrestling the Loch Ness monster.

Nessie, as she's known in these parts, has long eluded the efforts of scientists and thrill seekers. The Olympic committee thought, why not take this opportunity to leverage some of the worlds most competitive resources?

Using his prowess in process and his cunning insight into what drives behavior, Steve baited Nessie with chocolate ice cream. When she emerged, he pounced. Chalk up another gold for team US - if the SIS ever agrees to let the event go public.

You never know who you'll run into

When we were in Potmos earlier this month, we met this terrific Dutch family who travel at least as much as we do.

The de Meyere's were also planning to be at the Olympics. Phone numbers were exchanged, but original plans seemed doomed. Our phone rang as we passed into the Olympic Village. Among thousands, Carine and Viet were just a few yards behind us!

What are the chances? Olympic magic.

Olympics - Record smashing Day 1

The first day of Olympic competition did not disappoint.

We began with women's weightlifting - one of our favorites. Petite women weighing under 100lbs lift barbells, inching up from 154 to 193lbs in the Snatch and an astonishing 242lbs in the Clean and Jerk.

On to Fencing, which moves at lightning speed. Even with electronic touch scoring and replays in slow-mo, we can barely follow the scoring, but its dynamic, looks amazingly graceful and has long been on Karen's bucket list, so Steve sticks it out.

Swimming at the Olympic Village rounds out the day. The cheers are deafening!

Ryan Lochte (model material handsome) from the US, breaks the 400M medley record at 4:05:15, a full 3 seconds ahead of the other two medal winners. Mark Phelps looked crushed at not medaling. World records were also broken at women's 400 medley (China) and 4x100 meter relay (Australia).

Star power went beyond the Olympians. Kobe Bryant and family were close by for the swimming. Steve disappeared for a while and reemerged from where Michelle Obama, Bill Gates and Mitt Romney were sitting. He insists he was just getting ice cream. Hmmmm.

Olympia 2012 - the Opening

The "Isle of Wonder" opening theme, orchestrated by Danny Boyle of "Slumdog" fame, was indeed wonderful. Very definitely British. Who else could mix bucolic country scenes with the Sex Pistols and parachuting her Majesty in with 007 to save the day.

Miles of athletes paraded through, many encouraged by thundering cheers. Besides adding our voice for team US and the Aussies, the Kaufman's were there for some of our other faves - Bhutan, Fiji, Mongolia, Cambodia, Kenya, Sierra Leone and Cuba.

Stay tuned for more as the games continue!

Olympic Torch Relay

Staying with our London friends, it appeared that the towns people had left and those coming for the Olympics were yet to arrive. That was until 4-PM on Thursday. As if by magic, people appeared, lining the roads 6 deep, to cheer on the Olympic torch relay. Regular folk have been carrying the torch throughout the UK, as shown by the map in this picture.

The strange orange one eyed creature is reportedly the 2012 Olympic mascot.

See you all at the opening ceremony!

Witch Trials Continue

After nearly 9 months, we needed to get our sea legs back on Blue Chip. A mere hour north lies Glouchester, of "A Perfect Storm" fame, and Salem famed for its historic witch trials. Storm it didn't, but have no doubt, the Salem witch trials continue. Best to put on your bonnet, keep your head down and DON'T wear red. If red you wear, then the ONLY question the town elders will care to ask is are you a good witch or a bad witch.

Acropolis - 2,500 years and counting

So here's the thing. Being slightly addicted to HGTV, living in a 130 year old brownstone and having remodeled a 60 year old condo, I think of repairs as a way of life - a Loews credit card as a distinct possibility.

Then when in Athens, we visited the buildings of the Acropolis. The coffered ceilings are intact. The pillars secure and the marble facing doesn't seem to need polishing or resealing. Marble deep plunge tubs and their clay pipes are certainly in better shape than the 60 year condo plumbing I just replaced.

In all fairness work has been done since the Parthenon was built in 438BC. The big remodeling job came in 1204 when it was converted into a Christian church. In 1460 the Ottoman Turks added a mosque's minaret and dome. In 1687 an artillery shell caused a fiery explosion and in 1820 the British removed to London over two-thirds of the statuary and relief work.

A quick glance at what remains may look like a general contractors dream. However, I compare it to the homes I know and somehow think the ancient Greeks had a better return on their investment.

Patmos - the blue and white island

Thank goodness for dear friends and weddings! If not for these two ingredients, this fantastic Greek island would most likely have been missed.

St. John is widely believed to have written Revelations here and is honored with a Greek Orthodox monestsry and the preservation of the cave which was his haven when exiled from Turkey.

Today 2,000 people call Potmos home. A widely international group own or rent traditional medieval houses and enjoy a lively creative environment on this volcanic island, rich with flowers, food and warm industrious people. The debt crisis? That is for another day!

Ephesus - over 2,000 years and counting

A two hour drive north of Bodrum, along the southwest coast of Turkey, stands Ephesus. Originally settled in 700BC, what remains was primarily built between 100BC and 200AD. Curetes Street was paved in marble, enhancing numerous temples and monuments, including the Temple of Hadrian. (photo top right).

Heated floors, hot and cold running water, mosaic floors, frescoed walls, outdoor covered malls, dinner parties, catering and "take-out" food - all part of life in Ephesus.

Life doesn't sound so different from ours. Okay maybe except for their technologically advanced heated floors. Come to think of it, maybe we haven't come so far in 2,000 years after all.

Beautiful Bodrum, Turkey

The flights were long. The destination worth it.
Bodrum is tucked along Turkey's southwest coast. Rolling hills of evergreens and fields of grey-green olive trees make their way down to the coast, punctuated with flat roofed rectangular homes, where they are met with bright blue waters and hundreds of teak gulets ready to set sail. The heat of the day is broken up by the call to prayer. Evening brings cool air and delicious fresh food accompanied by stunning views. Everyone is smiling. What's not to like?

When in Boston

A Sox game is mandatory when we're in Boston, no matter how the boys are doing. (And this year, don't ask.) Fenway just says "home"!

It's the best part of life!

There was a short stop in Eugene Oregon, after Fiji but before Vegas and California.

Our two wonderful granddaughters were waiting for us with their terrific Mom and Dad. Remind us next time that jet lag makes it extra tough to keep up with the grands!

Evie is walking with boundless energy. Big Sister Clara's 8th birthday was June 10 and she is looking forward to horseback riding come summer. Mom and Dad are holding down the fort.

They are all-4 the best!

Boston - here we come

Farewell Fiji

A magical week on Fiji has slipped by. We enjoyed several terrific colorful coral and fish filled dives on the reef a 5-minute boat ride from our island. We encountered the fastest croquet court we've ever played. Karen played her first 9-holes of golf, over three days. Steve reacquainted himself with the joys of reading in a hammock. Sharing the island with only four other people, the wonderful staff spoiled us every minute of every day, concluding with a kava ceremony and farewell chant that brought a mixture of smiles and damp eyes all around. We will long have fond memories of beautiful Fiji.

Fiji - life imitates imagination

Mountainous islands surrounded by dive-able reefs, brightly colored foliage with birds to match, tropical breezes and countless swaying palm trees. That's exactly what you find on Wakaya, a private island with 10 thatched "buras", delicious food and just enough activities that the days glide by faster than we ever thought possible. Just watch out for the coconuts! Their three eyes allow them to aim as they come hurtling down with a thud as you innocently stroll by.

Sydney - We'll miss you

Weekends mean it's MARKET time!

Every city has its weekend markets, but few have as many nor do they have the distinct personalities that you find here. Paddington is best known, but there's Kirribilli, the Rocks, Manley and so many more!

Click this link to enjoy some of our favorites:
http://kaufmans.phanfare.com/5589831

Just for fun

Luna Park Sydney opened in 1935 at the foot of Sydney Harbour Bridge on Milson's Point. It's distinct silhouette, just a stones throw from the CBD and Sydney Opera House, make it a distinct element of the city skyline.

For more photos, click this link:
http://kaufmans.phanfare.com/5589828

SYDNEY - What's not to love?

We arrived in Sydney yesterday. This photo is the view from our Kirribilli flat. And yes that is the Sydney Harbour Bridge with the beloved opera house to the left. Located on the north side of the harbour, we are a 7-minute ferry ride away to our beloved Rocks. Of course you can also walk across the Sydney Harbour Bridge or take the metro one stop to Circular Quay.

With 3-weeks, friends to see and a full calendar of "what's on" in Sydney, there is certain to be lots of blogging.

A Final Visit

Calvin and Rinda have become our "regular" Useppa guests. But it's April and finally time to close the house. New adventures await. Until next time.....

About to turn 1 - Evie takes on the world

After the excitement of waiting for Evie to be born, the next step has been awaiting her first steps.  For months the entire family has been placing bets that this ball of fire would begin walking any day.  She must have wanted a bigger audience.  When visiting with us on Useppa, she conquered this milestone.  One wavering step and then eight feet later, we were ALL applauding - including Evie.  March 28, 2012 - mark it on the calendar!

Click here to watch those magical first steps

Erin-go-Bragh in the Island of the Palms

Wether named McColgan, Kaufman, Trino or Beisswenger, we were all out on March 17 parading and indulging in the wearing of the green on Useppa.

Cuba - It Only Gets Better

The contradictions at every turn and the warmth of the people is what makes Cuba magical.  The diversity keeps the surprises coming. There is much to ponder and even more to discover.

Click HERE to see more of CUBA!

We were in Havana for a week last year, with a quick day trip to the beautiful beaches of Veradero.  This time, 10 adventurous friends from our Useppa Florida island joined us as we travelled west to the incredible Vinales Valley.  Tobacco plantations, farming cooperatives, schools, clinics, cave exploring and horseback riding.  And that was just the first 48-hours.

The 5 days that followed in Havana and the surrounding area was fantastic.  We  can see many changes in the one short year since our last visit.  Progress is wonderful for the people who live here, but selfishly, we can easily imagine the charm beginning to slip away as Cuba steps toward joining the rest of the world.

Another return visit? It's highly likely.

Cuba - a return visit

We so enjoyed our taste of Cuba last February, we decided to come back with friends and expand our reach beyond Havana. We'll share what we found when we get back state side in early March.

In the meantime, here are some pics from the Havana we found in 2011.

Myanmar - Temples, Smiles, Tanakar and "skirts"

Although we didn't know what to expect from Burma, it still amazed us. Yangon, until recently the capital of Myanmar, modern and spotless. The gilded spires of often countless Buddhist temples can be seen in the most isolated places. Smiles abound from old and young with a greeting of "Megunlaba". Sandalwood "tanakar" paste decorates and protects from the harshest sun. "Longyi" skirt like sarongs, are the most common attire of both men and women. And this is just the beginning.

Mumbai to Bangkok to Yangon to Boston

We loved India, but Steve has had enough curry and wants to change up his workout routine. So, we've left India and are in Bangkok awaiting our flight to Yangon, Myanmar where there will be biking, boating, touring and NO spicy curries! (Steve hopes!!)

But who knows what Myanmar food is really like? Maybe curry is not so bad after all!?

You'll have to wait to find out. Our cell phones will not work in Myanmar and blogging is a government no-no, so we will be off the grid until back in Boston January 29th. Then we'll share the best of Burma! Until then .......

The Logistics of Moms Feeding Millions

Problem - MILLIONS of school children and commuting office workers crave Mom's home cooking and want to save on eating out. We've got a "wallah" for that!

Dabbawalah means "one who carries the box". White capped walahs go to homes collecting stacked metal tiffins of hot food. Marked with symbols, not names, these are brought to centralized locations and resorted by destination. Trains, bicycles and carts are utilized to deliver tiffins on cue and return the containers home by days end.

This is a much respected, officially organized hierarchal group of workers who have branched out into catering and also delivering sports gear to thousands of after school cricket players.

Imagine - error free 2-way FedEx happening in less than 12-hours!

Dhobi Ghat - Worlds Largest Outdoor Laundry

Water and space in Mumbai are both at a premium, so how do things get washed? The rare washer also serves as your drier, resulting in damp sheets with nowhere to hang them. DHOBI to the rescue.

Dhobi Ghat in Hindi literally means "wash man at the river". Washing centers are found throughout India, but none compares in size to Mumbai's Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat. Dating back to British rule, these 700 washing platforms employ about 200 families and between 5,000 to 8,000 people.

Dhobis by the hundreds collect thousands of items daily to be washed from homes, hotels, restaurants and businesses. Items are marked by household, bundled and brought to the ghat by hand or cart, to be returned washed, pressed and folded. More delicate items are washed elsewhere or dry cleaned if silk.

Simply need ironing? A "press-walah" picks up your damp clothes, which are then ironed with a coal filled iron.

All done without receipts or tags stapled to ones clothes and we're told errors never occur. It's Six Sigma personified!

$1B home in Mumbai? Which one is it?

Real estate and neighborhoods are as
diverse as the people that live here.

The most expensive single family home in the world is right here in Mumbai. Antila cost $1B to build. This 27 story home was built by Mukesh Ambani of Reliance Industries. He is the 2nd richest man in Asia. The house is fully decorated, has gardens and 3 helipads, but has never been moved into, presumably for not adhering to Vastu Shastru - the Hindu version of Feng Shui. (This is what happens when you don't supervise the general contractor!)

We think Mr. Ambani and family, simply prefer to live in their current 14 story house along with his mother and brother's family in "our" neighborhood, Colaba. Great Arabian Sea views. Not very crowded. 2-kilometers into the city center. What's not to like?

Of course, if you don't have that kind of change laying about, there are lots more options. We've pictures a few here. You choose. But choose fast! Mumbai real estate has gone up 138% since 2005.

Want to read more? Here's a link:
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/19/business/global/this-luxurious-house-is-not-a-home.html

Mumbai - Bombay - Bollywood. You choose.

Call this crazy peninsula city of 12 million and 7 merged island whatever you want, but you certainly won't call it bucolic. The 4th largest city in the world and India's richest, rarely sleeps. There are people and TRAFFIC; sounds and HORNS; shops and stands of every type at every turn. No, we are certainly NOT in Delhi anymore.

Let a horse tonga take you for a tour, touch the top of the Taj Hotel's first property, join 7million rail commuters or relax in a taxi, listening to the rhythm of the horn symphony. It's all here at your disposal.

Children you will never forget

The children of Delhi are as diverse as the families they come from. What you never forget are their smiles and shy yet determined friendliness. We met hundreds. LITERALLY hundreds. Karen was swamped by a class of school girls. All in white salvar and navy sweaters, each insisted on shaking her hand, and telling her their name.

Other children simply walk up with a smile or dare each other to be the one to say hello to the "ferangi." We LOVE it!

Markets and Bazars of Delhi

Ok. Compared to our visits to Delhi over 10 years ago, the city is significantly less crowded.

Now you can actually walk through Chandni Chowk, the oldest shopping market where each block represents a different industry or product. Then there are the "small" bazars of Meena and Cahndri, still requiring police to help people and animals navigate each other. However to give a sense of "people density", these photos are of a local neighborhood market just behind the 2nd gate of the Jara Masjid. Need shoes, electronics, sweaters or a bite to eat? Out with your honey on the way home? It's all here.

With 16-million people, crowded is a relative term!

Jama Masjid and the Rock Stars

Although the historical sites in this country's capital are numerous, the one that touched us most was the Jama Masjid. To reach this principal mosque of Old Delhi, one leaves the Red Fort, passes by a Jain temple, a Hindu temple honoring Shiva and through a crowded market. Rising atop a small hill stands white domes and rich red stone.

Shah Hahan, the fifth Mogul emperor, was an architecturally attuned sort of guy. He commissioned Agra's Taj Mahal, Delhi's Red Fort and this mosque, which was completed in 1658. The beauty of its design, decorated with Arabic, Jain and Hindu inscriptions, is memorable.

Even more memorable was the warm welcome we and the numerous Hindu visitors received as we left our shoes behind and joined Muslims touring the site just hours before the call to prayer and arrival of 5,000 faithful. In India we are constantly reminded of what nonjudgmental coexistence can feel like.

Surprisingly, WE were the other big draw. Schoolchildren, teenage boys and families took cell-phone pictures with us. Even if they couldn't take a photo, they asked Karen to take their picture. ROCK STARS. Who knew?

DELHI - Changed or the same?

Land at Delhi's airport and, if has been more than 2 years since your last visit, panic sets in as you're sure somehow they've allowed you to board the wrong plane. Where did this sleek modern wonder come from? As you drive into the city and wander the streets, the change these last ten years is riveting. There is a metro, new overhead roadways ease congestion of ever increasing traffic and large buildings change the skyline. TV channels and western dress abound and poverty seems less extreme. But the city's unique character smiling faces, colorful dress and helpful hands remain. Oh to be back in DELHI!

What do you guys do on that island? 

SPK croquet tourney winner.

Returning from a little bounty hunting.  Arrgh!!