10 Days of Complete Business

It began with the arrival of the Oregon Kaufman's on July 3rd.  The first in about 7 years and Evie's first visit. Here at the Maperium - a Boston original and a way to experience the globe from the inside. This is a unique experience you'll only have here, can't really describe and will never forget. 

This is Boston with the Kaufman's so there was boating. Swan boats on The Commons, a tradition since 1877 - the replica WWII amphibious Duck boats - and of course Blue Chip with Captains Evie and Steve at the helm. 

July 4th, which meant fireworks on the Charles, viewed from our back deck with the Boston Pops playing in the background. (We're happy to arrange anything for Evie, Clara, Erin & Jeremy and invite all of Boston to attend.) Clara and Jeremy clearly enjoyed driving and bumping at Canobie Lake Park in Salem, NH.  Evie and Bubbie over did it in the twirling cups and decided pitch-prize games might be a better option.  And we all agreed that the New England Aquarium was the perfect rainy day activity.  Definitely visit during feeding times for giant sea turtles, penguins, and seals. Also stop and pet the sharks and man-if-rays - but NOT during feeding time. 

We were very sad to see kids leave and hope they return soon - there's so much more exploring to do! While Steve got back to work, Karen got back to earning traveling points. 

A quick trip to NYC proves you can successfully put lipstick on a pig! The LIRR and NJ Transit are finally going through s renovation it's needed for 40+ years. It's truly amazing what a little "lipstick" can do. 

Above ground - movie makers take advantage of New Yorkers exiting the City for the cooler beaches.  Hoever, in the evening it's clear that vacationers are here in full force, despite the fact that in the summer Time Square becomes a de facto oven. (Where is trip Advisor?)

A quick run to Florida for a dentist appointment (don't ask) also means a stop on Useppa.  Late day storms creates beautiful sunsets, complete with rainbows. The rainy season has everything blooming, including  beeblam and Passion flowers.  The butterflies are thrilled! It's also a great time to plant, if you can work the timing around the 100% heat index. More water please. 

Southwest Florida loves its Gulf Coast shells.  Although typically seen decorating mirrors, boxes and lampshades, why stop there? This 2005 VW Beetle is covered in 60 different species of shells to commemorate the first National Seashell Day which was proclaimed by Lee County, FL and first celebrated on June 20, 2016. It took 65 volunteers 1,200 hours to apply 20,000 shells using 100 tubes of Amazing Goop marine glue. Okay - we've  now debunked any rumors that Florida lacks innovative spirit!  Has anyone contacted Ridleys? 

Summer has just started.  Clearly we are determined to make the most of it. We'll keep you posted. 

Chicago - a hell of a town!

 Chicago is one of those great towns. We stayed inThe  Loop area  for a two day visit last week.  You will find music, theatre, dance (including the Alvin Alley Dance Theatre) and restaurants galore.  And there's plenty of natural beauty and outdoor activities within easy reach. There's a Great Lake - no pun intended - with sailing, beaches and incredible sand dunes.  And of course Millennium Park, which transformed nearly 25 acres of rail yards, parking lots and parkland to celebrate the second millennium. Near the east entrance is the iconic Frank Gehry designed stainless steel, abstract, arching Pritzker Pavillion amphitheater that hosts musical events for up to 11,000. I'm sure there MUST be room for one more guest!

 

If you are more the strolling type, stop by the farmers market at the base of this 50-foot, 162-ton untitled 1967 sculpture by Pablo Picasso at Daley Plaza. Just a few blocks away is Alexander Calder's 53-foot Flamingo sculpture, located at Federal Plaza since 1973. 

                     

Stay Pineapple - The Alise Chicago  

We stayed at The Alise - a reasonably priced boutique hotel located at 1 West Washington St. Once an 1800's bank, its got just the kind of funky but practical style you would imagine from the Bellevue Washington based hotel group called StayPineapple and don't ask us where the name came from. Ok - Steve says to warn you that there was a $10 "amenity fee" that we still haven't figured out - just ask them to deduct it from your bill - they will - and stay there anyway. Click the link above for details about their mostly west coast locations. 

 

But at the end of the day, a girls gotta eat. Although I appreciate a good restaurant experience, its street food that really  captures a place. Some people miss the deep dish pizza, but it's the Chicago dog that I've been craving  for decades.  It's quintessential Chicago - All-American Midwest with a twist - the cucumber playing off the sport pepper and of course you've got to have the poppyseed bun. 

Get yourself to Chicago. (We'll even understand if you go to a Cubs game.) I'm predicting we'll be back again soon! 

Nature on Useppa

 

Summers on Useppa are extraordinary. Yes it's warm and it rains every evening, but that also means evening clouds which create extraordinary sunsets.  

 

If it's June then it's also time for night blooming cereus. All year long strands of cactus slowly grow down the trunks of cabbage palms. During the month of June long park red blossoms emerge. After dark, these burst open into glowing white blossoms nearly a foot wide. They only last for the night and then proof - they're gone. The next night, the magic repeats as new blossoms open.

 

It's also a time for our resident butterflies to enjoy their garden. With the rainy season comes an explosion of plants and also of butterflies. Besides the colonies of black and yellow Swallowtail that live here year round, we have have a profusion of others. These orange Gulf Fritillary have been fluttering around each other, doing a mating dance. Eggs will be laid and a few weeks after, the resulting caterpillar will be munching through a passion vine before starting the process all over again. 

 

Florida is not just a place to escape the winter.  It's a place filled with hidden and exotic beauty all year round - all you need to do is come and explore. Okay and bring sunblock and maybe a little bug spray - but it's worth it. Promise!

Abacos Islands - TAKE 2!

Seems version 1 went out without any content - So here goes take 2!

The Abacos is a boaters paradise. Located the furthest north in the Bahamas, this 120-mile jewelled necklace of both inhabited and uninhabited islands and cays offers countless mooring spots and a myriad of diversions. 

 

Most people associate the Abacos with Hope Town's iconic Elbow Reef Lighthouse, which is one of only two non-automated lighthouses in the Bahamas.   Built in 1864, this charming lighthouse sits 120 feet above sea level. It's 32,000 candlepower light provides visibility of 17 miles. Climb it's 101 steps for an amazing view - just bring water!

 

For you wooden boat lovers, there's another reason to visit this candy cane striped lighthouse. Come view Scully,  the last 14-foot wooden Abaco dinghy to be built by famed Winer Malone in 2010. These wooden dinghies were the traditional workboat used by Abaconians for fishing, conching, freight, transport and "courting" between islands.  In favorable winds, a sail was used. Alternately, a 10-foot sculling oar was placed in a transom notch. For those who need to know more, look up the Wooden Boat cover story from March-April 1997. These dinghies are still used by locals throughout the Abacos. 

 

There are so many places to stop and explore. These three are all on various cays within a 20 minute boat ride of Little Harbour.  If a sand beach is on your list, be certain to ask before making the trip. Many beaches are coral - and therefore not walkable - or are only accessible at low tide.  Nippers on Guana Cay is a winner - but you will have to walk through the poolside all-music-all-the-time outdoor restaurant. (There's a smaller indoor restaurant if you need some AC & sanity!)

 

We spent a wonderful afternoon with our new found friends the Wells walking and snorkeling. Nine year old Jonathan, number 9 of 9, wanted to see if we could bury him, which Karen proceeded to do. 

 

Steve had a heck of a time pulling him out. Must be time to get back to the gym!

 

Finally we ended up at Man O War Cay. Founded in 1780 by Loyalists who left the Carolinas, the  island's 400 residents are still a close knit group, in fact 70% of the Alburys (easily the island's MOST commmon name) can trace their ancestry to the 1st Alburys who settled here in 1816.  (VERY CLOSE - I'm just saying.) Albury boats are known throughout the Abacos as the most sturdy and well riding means of transport. 

The island is a mere 2-1/2 miles long and about 100 meters wide, with wonderful sandy beaches and a long protective Harbour that will protect you in any wind. There's also an amazing grocery store which will gladly order most anything you could need with 48-hour notice. (Boaters  - you know how diffucult it is to provision in the Bahamas!)

We love the food at the Dock and Dine. The Albury Canvas Shop is famous for its bags. Joe Albury sells his coveted handcrafted items. Andy Albury, of Albury Designs, creates half hulls on spec, as did his daddy, along with wonderful solid furniture.  Other shops offer food and well crafted items from M-O-W-ers,  as well as other Bahamians. 

With ferry transport, homes to rent and a fantastic harbor, M-O-W should be on everyone's list. But bring your own liquor.  This proudly conservative, god fearing island does not sell liquor. Although a glass of wine or beer can be bought with a meal, you'll be so relaxed, you won't miss it - promise! 

Abaco Bahamas - So Many Islands!

Harbour Island, Eleuthera - Oh the Colors!

 

Every Bahamanian Island settlement has its own personality. On Harbour Island you're immediatly struck by the calming beauty of pastel colored wooden cottages that overflow with lush flowering tropical foliage. 

 

Every winding street has a story to tell. Whether it's St John's Anglican Church, established in 1767 and the oldest on the island, or one of its British Loyalist clapboard homes.  

 

Colorful murals celebrate, decorate or draw you inside.  Feel free to explore. Residents are happy to chat, laugh and tell you stories, even if you're "only looking". Well, okay, you might find boxes made of shells  or colorfully embroidered rayan for your granddaughters.  

 

When you're done, indulge in some time at the pink sand beaches or by the pool with a glass of iced tea and maybe a sketch pad that has been sitting idle for too long. 

The restaurants are many and all wonderful. Sip-Sip is a colorful lunchtime favorite, on top of the eastern shore cliffs, looking down where wild horses run on endless pristine pink sand beaches.  (You WANT the lobster quesadilla!) That's Harbour Island. 

Across Devil's Backbone to Harbour Island

 

After a couple of peaceful days anchoring in the Berry Islands, we're off to Eleuthera.

 

 Like most anticipating this tricky crossing, we stop at Spanish Wells to pick up a guide to assist us in navigating the Devil's Backbone coral heads between the Berry and Eleuthera islands. The guide ties his much smaller boat onto your stern, takes over as captain and he speeds away maneuvering the unmarked coral. One false turn and you better be ready to swim. There's no Tow Boat US or coastguard here. We've relied  on Bandit to guide us since our first crossing in 2006 - AND......

 

 

to supply us with Stone Crab claws -  deliciously sweet, larger than you'll ever see and as fresh as they come. When we're really lucky, "Mrs Bandit" sends along coconut bread. 

 

 Spanish Wells itself is worth a stop. It's first settlers were of Scottish descent, unexpectedly landing here when shipwrecked crossing the Devil's Backbone on their way from the Bahamas to Eleuthera in 1647. (They should have called Bandit!) They were followed in the mid-1700s by British Loyalists escaping America. (Yup - you read that right.) 

Today Spanish Wells is the primary settlement on St George's Cay with a population just under 2,000. They remain primarily of British descent, Caucasian with a very specific accent and dialect, all of which makes the island and its inhabitants unique within the Bahamas. The majority of its youth leave the island for a college education with over 95% returning to live here. Commercial fishing, lobster and stone crabs are their primary industries. The settlement was dry until about 5 years ago, when they opened up to tourism.  So we suggest you skip the Stone Crabs on South Beach and put Spanish Wells on your list. You can always fly to Eleuthera and ask Bandit to bring you across - who knows, maybe he'll offer you Stone Crabs and coconut bread!

 

Great Harbour Cay

 

The northern reaches of the Berry Islands are a delight. Very few of the islands are developed. Great Harbour Cay is one of the larger islands, with a perfect marina  - excellent in a storm, has everything you need, but not so sophisticated that you forget your in the Bahamas.  

 

Three times a month, the mail boat arrives from Nassau. Pallets move all matter of provisions to a variety of transport, as cars and vans crowd the pier awaiting their turn.  The local "all age" school boasts coat of arms, pictured here. Everyone is feeling festive!

 

We pedal over to the islands east side to the Beach Club restaurant.  Positioned along a beautifully arching ribbon of white sand and 80-degree turquoise water, it's well worth the effort. The fish is fresh, the freshly made plump burgers delicious and the Art Shack boasts local artisans creations.  Patrons drive, pedal, jet ski and wade in from anchored boats. Open for breakfast and lunch, life is truly a beach here.  

 

Our other find was Carriearl Boutique Hotel and Restaurant. Angie and her husband came here from the U.K. before the economic crash and then decided to stay on. The surroundings, company and food was so superbly spot on, we came back for a second evening. 

Great Harbour can be the perfect spot for those who want beautiful surroundings, a few modern conveniences and a true Bahamian experience.  We'll be back, so just let us know.   

We are on the Water!

 

May 7, we departed Useppa on Blue Chip, which will essentially be "home" for the next six weeks.  

 

First stop is Little Shark River, part of the Everglades 10,000 Islands National Park. The wildlife and birds are incredible here.  Needless to say, you are miles from man-made light, there's no internet and hope that your GPS is working or you could find yourself amongst these mangrove islands indefinitely! 

 

 

Birds on stakes mark the way as we cruise from west to east through the northern Keys shallow waters near Islemorada. 

Next stop Miami and on to the Bahamas. 

The Journey Continues!

We can't even begin to explain where we've been these last 9 months. Steve was teaching this past Fall at HBS. Karen was at art school in Sarasota, spending weekends with Steve on Useppa island in southwest Florida. Beyond wonderful friends, it's sailing for Steve and butterfly gardening for Karen.  

The winged guests were numerous. As we prepared to depart Useppa for a month of boating on Blue Chip, it is the black Polydamas  butterflies who dominate. 

 

Dozens can be found flitting around the garden  mating and laying their eggs.

 

Their caterpillars of all sizes munch away on our Dutcman's Pipevines, with its plate sized purple with yellow splotched flowers.  

 

This week we had the added delight of hundreds of hummingbirds descending on Useppa, particularly in the butterfly garden where there is an abundance of nectar plants. They've  been playing tag with the black Polydamas butterflies. The green feathered dimunituve birds easily blend in with their favorite firebush. 

 

The exceptional number of  enchanting hummingbirds is the result of a "fallout" having been buffeted by recent storms while on their migratory pathway North for the summer. We welcome them with plants they absolutely need to feed on in order to finish their journey - as we also prepare for our journey North.