Milan - Everything Italy, Everything Within Reach

            

Milan is that Italian city not everyone has on their travel list. But since the NY Times had it as their #1 choice for 2015, there must be a reason why. It could be the newly renovated La Scala theatre or one of it's famous fashion houses, the massive castle Sforzesco or it's numerous museums in grand ancient buildings. 

I'm going for the Duomo.  Founded in 1386, it was consecrated in 1418 but wasn't finished until 1812, under Napolean. It's an incredible example of Gothic architecture with its 2,254 statues, 135 soaring spires and 96 gargoyles. The interior holds 40,000. (Yup, that's more than Fenway.)  And as you can see, it's all about the light. You can walk by its facade via the tremendous pigeon-feeding peopled piazza countless times and it will never look quite the same. Or follow the locals and take your lunch to the top to eat amongst the gargoyles with views that extend beyond the city.

           

     

Linking the Piazza del Duomo and the Piazza del Scala is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The elegant cross shaped, glass roofed arcade was built between 1865 and 1898. Today it is filled with shops, bookstores and eateries. It's tremendous glass domed roof, mosaic floors and fresco painted walls are a delight. Sip a cappuccino or a Compari and soda while watching the world go by after an evening performance at La Scala.

The Palazzo Reale is equally close to the Duomo. In the 11th century, it was the seat of the city council. Mozart performed here in 1770. Today, like many other Milan addresses, it's actually a labyrinth of several smaller neoclassical buildings. On Monday it's one of the few museums open in the city. But take care, next to the Duomo Museum entrance, you may think your entering a lecture or performance art, when instead  you've walked right into the "Marriage  Hall". Dozens of people look at you expectantly as you sheepishly walk out - and so wishing you'd had your camera!

But you might move onto a fabulous Gioto  exhibit. His incredible sense of form, color and perspective, along with his unique blue, made him incredibly popular and wealthy during his life between 1266 and 1337. On the same ticket, and just across the hall is the endless galleries housing "The Great Mother", curated by  Massimilano Gioni, the former Venice Biennale Curator. It's both a historical and creative retrospective of woman through the ages, reminding us how, just below the surface, the view of women and their rights are stil quite tentative. A wide range of art & history that will certainly make you think!

Bicycles aren't as popular as scooters - or gelato (You will NEVER see so many really well dressed men licking wafer cones.) but bike stands and rental bikes are everywhere. This is certainly also a walking city, but it's incredible contemporary underground metro is very tempting. Or if you prefer staying above ground, there's the wooden trolley cars - at least if they've yet to be sold to San Francisco. 

And then of course there's the trickier part of navigation - reading signs that are not in your language. Looking all over for Museum 900 because you didn't realize what "novocento" meant. (BTW - An amazing collection of wonderfully exhibited Italian late 1800 through this century in a Guggenheim-like spiral space that ensures you see the progression of approach.) 

Then there are the "international" street signs. Streets with NO people traffic makes sense when you realize it's  a narrow trolley passage, but from afar, well  could it have been statement-art? And if anyone knows what the person carrying the white bar means - please let me know!

Farmer's Market, Tribal Lands, Nude Beach, Denim, Sailing, Donuts, Jazz Bands & French Films

                         

Although breakfast awaits overlooking the Gay Head Cliffs, you won't want to miss Sunday's West Tisbury Farmer's Market. This manageably sized, outdoor market offers everything from veggies and fruits to, alpaca and woolen goods, meats, fish, eggs, soaps, candles, cheeses (remember Gray Barn Farm?), juices and baked goods. But the winner of the day was the flowers. You may never have seen a more color intensive selection. They were everywhere!

                          

Aquinnah, located on the island's far south west corner may boast a mere population of 311, but is packed with natural beauty. It is the center of the Native American Wampang culture,who were harvesting whales using small boats and long harpoons far before it became a thriving industry of the settlers. Drive or bike to the  Aquinnah shop and restaurant for a good food and amazing views from atop the Gay Head cliffs.

                        

The red clay of Gay Head cliffs are part of Wampang lore.  It also boast miles long sandy beach, punctuated by the nude Jungle Beach to the far west - just in case your looking to erase those pesky tan lines. The iconic 170 foot brick Gay Head light was first built in 1799. Rebuilt in 1856, cliff erosion has caused it to be moved back several times, but its remains on the island's most westerly point. It's red flashing light can be seen every 15 seconds from as fas 24 miles away. 

         

A stop in Menemsha's working harbor reminds you of the island's origins and that fish really does come from the water - not just the grocery store. Fresh fish can be bought to bring  home or eat right there on a lovely, quiet beach.  Menemsha Blue has a small retail store here, which may be one of the few places you can actually find a denim shirt made of - well denim.  Can't make it here? Try  ordering online. It's a classic. 

                       

The Alabama was built in 1926 was designed by Thomas McManus, a man widely regarded as the best designer of Gloucester fishing schooners. After a long retirement and a 90% facelift funded by Black Dog owner and completed by Captian Morgan Douglas, she was out back to work in 1997. The fishing schooner was an American invention and ships like her were relied on to provide the country with a staple of its economy, codfish. For us, it was the pleasure of hoisting sales, eating clams on the half shell, rum drinks and a grand sunset, right out of Vineyard Haven.

                      

After the sun goes down, we're off to Oak Bluffs for "Back Door Donuts." How the local bakery keeps up with its morning delivery, when the que for warm donuts snakes around the block is anyone's guess. The Extraordinary Rendition Band could be heard for blocks and must have been making its way from the Victorian Cottage community down to the village green. All we know is that we wondered if we weren't suddenly in New Orleans. Apparently the wonderfully costumed, jazz style band follow the national Jazz Fests, so keep your eyes and ears open.

         

The Manor House, our sprawling Victorian hotel, began its life in Vineyard Haven in 1791. Located on Main Street, it's within minutes of the ferry and harbor, with amazing views from its cupola and just at the edge of impressive and diverse shopping. And yes, you will enjoy modern amenities and a fantastic health club and spa.  Not to be missed, two of Martha's Vineyard Film theaters have been refurbished and are in walking distance from  the Manor House. We saw two entries from far sides of the spectrum - LBTG "Une Nouvelle Amie" and bucket list "The Hundred Year Old Man Who Jumped Out of the Window and Disappeared". We'll let you guess who liked which one best.

                          

Each of the Massachusets Iislands has its own personality. Martha's Vineyard is arguably the most artistic, diverse and has a sense of humor.  If you've not been here before, we encourage you to visit. If you have been here before, come back. Rent a car. Take a bike. Explore. There's truly something for everyone. 

  

    

    

    

Chappequiddick to Cape Pogue to Chilmark

Our annual McKinsey reunion began over 20 years ago. A group of about 10 couples rotate hosting this gathering whose primary purpose is to simply enjoy each other's company and get to know the places the couples find most special. This year we are on Martha's Vineyard, home of the McArts for over twenty years and the location of one of their first dates - which goes back well over 40 years. 

                             

We begin on the "On Time II" three car Chappy Ferry that links the south eastern tip of Martha's Vineyard Edgartown to Chappaquiddick. Get there early, particularly on this weekend, the beginning of the fishing derby, where being in line for over an hour is easily the norm if you arrive after 9AM. 

                            

We meet the Trustees of Reservations for an over-sand vehicle tour of the Cape Pogue Wildlife Refuge and lighthouse. Lowland marsh, terms, countless swallows and white egrets join us as we dodge rising tides on this thin strip of land, alternating between ocean and bay. The gray skies and bursts of wind and to the mystique of a late New England summer day.  

          

   

The 35-foot Cape Pogue lighthouse was authorized by Congress in 1801 for $2,000, to guide whaling boat fleets around Cape Pogue. This picture of the was taken in 1844 after the lighthouse had been moved, due to erosion and a three room light keepers house was added. 

                       

The tower was moved several  more times, but this 35-foot red doored structure used today was the final one built in 1893. The last move was in 1987 and required a helicopter to pick up and lift the structure 500 feet inland to avoid coastal erosion. The prism encases flashing white bulbs which can be seen nine miles away.  The outside views from above are magnificent and the winding stairs could never be duplicated today. It is a bit of an effort to come here, but you will never forget it. Return by ferry to Edgartwown and enjoy lunch at the blue-umbrella emblazoned Seafood Shanty - you can't go wrong. 

                            

Small family farms have long been the soul of Martha's Vineyard and rapidly making a come back. Eric and Molly were foodies cum farmers who started the Grey Barn Farm in Chilmark, a truly bucolic area along the southwest Vineyard not far from Menemsha. The young family purchased the farm in 2009. Although they acknowledge their learning curve was beyond steep, they now have a thriving Oreo-cow dairy farm, sell milk and make wonderful cheeses that can be found at local cheese stores and Whole Foods in the New York  and New England areas - so ask! There's also beef, veal and pork production, along with laying hens. All products are available at their on-site farmstand store, unless the chalkboard sign says otherwise. Look for them at Sunday's Chilmark farmers market. 

                          

Just next door is the Kara Taylor Gallery. From stone sculptures, to oils with gold leaf, themed photos, often enhanced with self coloring or ecaustic, all the multi-media work is her own. Primarily open on weekend afternoons, Kara's gallery is worth a stop. 

Cathy Walthers was the finale to our first night on Marth's Vineyard. She is a local private chef, best known outside of Martha's Vineyard for her cookbooks: Soup and Sides, Raising the Salad Bar, Kale Glorious Kale and her upcoming book on Cocktails. We were invited to her home, just across the street from gallery and farm, to participate in a cooking and cocktail demonstration (pomegranate mint gimlets anyone?) and fantastic gourmet meal of local fish, vegetables and peach, nectarine. raspberry crostata. Yum! Keep your eye out for her recipes. They are practical, very tasty and you don't need to be over-the-top health obsessed to love them. If Steve AND Karen both approve, you know they're perfect for just about anyone!

More on Martha's Vineyard to come! 

     

     

Labor Day Week - Boating and Longtime Friends

           

For us, there's no better way to face the end of summer than to spend a day on Blue Chip before school begins. What would make it truly memorable? Sharing it with special friends on a day with picture perfect weather. Check and check!

Valerie and Alan Adler are friends of  Steve's, who have been living in Israel for decades. We were thrilled that during their most recent stateside visit, we found a day where they could join us with their New York and  Massachusets family - composed of Ruth, Alan's sister, along with son Michael, daughter Tina and son in-law Ted, along with their three amazing granddaughters who simply blew us away with their maturity and presence. Wonderful crew, great company and all three grand-girls dove inton the Salem Harbor waters with their Uncle Michael. Diving into the Massachusetts waters just for the fun of it? A Blue Chip first! (Us Kaufmans are renowned cold water wimps.) 

                                

 There are certain friends you truly wish were closer by. That would be Val and Alan. You may remember their generously hosting us a year ago in Israel and Petra. We know the flight isn't really that long, but it's a bit too far to drop by and share Shabbat, one of our nicest memories from the last Israel visit. But who knows? Maybe we can take turns?

   

Drive-In Movie at Fenway

You have to be of a certain age to recall the joys of going to a drive-in movie. Well if Boston's boys aren't doing particularly well, why not rally the troops and invite them to Fenway for movie night 

There we were on Thursday night with about 10,000 of Red Sox Nation's own watching - well what else - Fever Pitch. 

Super fan Jimmy Falon (before he was Jimmy  Falon) plays across from super achiever Drew Barrymore. Obsession & practicality find love with humor best understood by the fans. (I can remember playing hookie from work and  getting "the look" from Steve when bringing my blackberry to Sox games), Fenway  food, popcorn and singing along to our Boston's iconographic eight inning stretch - "Sweet Caroline."  Certainly takes the sting out of not making it into the off season. Ok - some of the sting. 

Drive in movies on Useppa boast golf carts and have their own tradition,  but Fenway - definetly  worth a go! 

Maine - Now and now

We've been in Maine for the past week. Admittedly my postings are behind, but since today epitomizes boating in Maine, we'll start here in Bush-compound-Kennebunkport and work backwatds. The trip has been a mix of infamous Maine "crayola crayon" clarity and "pea soup" fog. 

These two pictures were literally taken side-by-side across the Kennebunkport Iinlet that's less than a football field wide. Let's call it 200 feet. This morning we woke up to "pea soup" that turned to sunshine. We confidently took off for Boston and one hour later couldn't see 10 feet off of the bow of our boat, which meant our mid-way, 2-hour run had suddenly turned into a 6-hour trip of dodging unexpected lobster pots and using radar to avoid on-coming boats. 

A plea from the crew to go inland and captain Steve masterfully brought us into Kennebunkport. We got the last spot at Chick's Marina and called Barb and Laura to let them know we're in town and to set an extra place at the table. 

Tomorrow is supposed to be sun, rain and thunderstorms. We'll take it over fog any day! 

Eugene - Summer on the Farm

                          

                       

Eugene is one of those unusual places. Coming in by air, you pass over dense hilly forestland juxtaposed against flat farmland, punctuated with lakes, rivers and small towns. It's the Pacific northwest but has moderate winters and summers that can get VERY warm - you know the 95-105 degree type of warm. Sunsets are often amazing, as mist rises or debris from forest fires states away drift into the atmosphere, enhancing the sun's last rays. 

                        

We always look forward to the days we share with Erin, Jeremy, Clara and Evie. But it's a special treat when we all go to Saturday Market.  There's live music, lots of internationally fresh cooked foods, local crafts - which inevitably includes the Eugene favored tied die and fabric painting - along with local crops of flowers and vegetables. Delightful fun in every way!

                     

 Then it's back to the farm. The girls, Jeremy, Erin and even Bubbie-Karen burn off some calories on Clara's birthday trampoline. This is fun and a LOT more exhausting then it looks. The girls have a variety of special moves and then there's the leaping basketball hoop. Bubbie clearly needs lessons. Next time we're all determined to get Pop-pop to join in.

                          

Just about a year into the new homestead, it's amazing to see what the family has accomplished. There are about 20 various fruit trees in place, ranging from apple to pear, fig and plum - just to get started. Beds of berry bushes and hills of strawberries promise spring and summer delights, along with the herb and veggie patch. The Cinderella pumpkin plant orb simply glows! Erin's has begun to put her stamp on the landscaping and is experimenting with an acre of cut flowers beds. The menagerie has certainly grown. This single beehive hums, with those little winged creatures producing close to 100 pounds of honey. Three ducks dive into their bath and perform entertaining antics. The bunnies continue to thrive and the girls have learned how to avoid their scratches. The fox literally got into the henhouse, so all 20 egg producing layers are gone for the time being. Then there are the cats and let's not forget about Henry - the family dog who just doesn't quit. 

                                  

With all there is to take care of - along with two very active girls - it isn't often than Erin gets a moment to breathe, so stollen quiet moments while the girls, Dad and Pop-pop are rare and cherished! And since we are both generally the designated photgrpahers, a photo of either of us is a RARE event.

                     

Pop pop Steve's other side inevitably comes out when he's with his girls. There's puzzles with Evie (We think this is the first time she completed 100 pieces all by herself with a "little" help from Pop-pop), admiring Clara's claymations and dress up costume parties. Did we mention the inevitable tea party with doll dress up - LOT's off doll dress up.

                   

While Clara attends French-fairytale camp (yup, we needed an explanation too), Evie is entertained with miniature golf, carousels and whatever else we can cook up. The reward at the day's end is chocolate ice cream - naturally - they are Steve's granddaughters.  We are hoping for an autumn visit, but in the meantime, we're restocked on new memories and simply can't believe how much this family accomplishes in any given day! 

     
   

     

Santa Barbara - Lotusland to Stagecoach

                    

Lotusland is a 37-acre subtropical and tropical wonderland realized by the vision of Hana Puacz, a Polish woman humbly born in 1887. A renowned  beauty, she changed her name from to Ganna Walska with the launch of  her operatic and acting career, performaning over the coming decades in New York, Paris and Europe, attracting the attention of audiences, critics and gentlemen on both sides of the Atlantic. The paparazzi followed her and men begged for her hand in marriage, including Harold  Fowler McCormick, who scandalously divorced Edith Rockefeller in 1922 in order to marry the socialite opera singer. 

                       

                       

Always an adventurer, and desiring to leave Nazi Europe, Madam Walska turned her sights toward California's sunny climate and free thinking residents. At the encouragement of her 6th, last and much younger husband, Theos Bernard, she purchased the Santa Barbara, Spanish inspired Mediterranean style Cuesta Linda estate in 1941, intending to use it as a retreat for Tibetan monks, renaming it "Tibetanland".

                       

The monks never appeared, and after divorcing Bernard, Madame Walsaka changed the estate's name to "Lotusland" in honor of the incredibly tall sacred Indian lotus growing in one of the estate's many ponds. For her life's remaining 40 years Walsaka transformed from socialite to renowned garden designer. Often selling jewels and bartering to fund acquisitions, she experimented with bold forms. mass plantings and unusual color combinations. Although there are topiaries, rose gardens and citrus arbors, the primary focus is on succulents, cactus,  airplants, palms, and cycads. Rare species abound, some protected by international treaties, occasionally representing the only natural site these plants can be found in the world. You had no idea some of these plants even existed and now you can't wait to discover more about them. 

                            

But all that garden wandering can make a person MIGHTY hungry. So Its off to the Cold Spring Tavern. Originally a stagecoach stop in 1865 between San Francisco and Los Angeles, it's located about 20 minutes by car north of Santa Barbara in Cold Spring Canyon in the Marcos Pass area on the way to Santa Ynez. We would have never found it without Steve's old MIT pal, Bob Johnson, leading the way. Okay - and with a little help from a local biker. 

                  

If your looking for tofu and vegan chow - this ISN'T your place. Folks make the trek here for venisin sausage, buffalo burgers, beef tips, their famous chili, wild bear - when available - and the amazing beer battered onion rings. Yes they do serve quiche and some seafood - but on the weekends it's bikers and BBQ. 

The Kaufman's thank Lisa and Bob Johnson for putting us up yet again in their historical Santa Barbara home with views down the valley to the water. We'd never find these gems, the restaurants or theaters without you. Heading this way - we'll ask the Johnson's for their recommendations. Trust us, you'll never know Santa Barbara until you get the Johnson's "visit list".

     

     

     

Music Weekend - Tanglewood or Boston's Copley Square

The weekend of July 24 had lots to offer - with thunderstorms threatening at every moment. 

We started with a Boston Pier reception to launch Boston's 4th annual Summer Arts Weekend.

Saturday morning Karen took off for  a quick overnight visit with her neice Crysta at Mt Holyoke College, where she's working for the summer. From there, it was an easy drive to Tanglewood, Lenox (we reccomend Alta's wine bar for amazing food) & charming Lee. Back to S Hadley and the Daniel Stebins B&B. 

Steve remained behind in Boston for an evenjng of music with, among others, R&B's Betty LaVette and Grammy Award winning Emmylou Harris with Rodney Crowell. 

Sunday afternoon was kicked off with Boston's 200 year old, continuously performing, famed Handel & Hayden Socirty  presentation of Beethoven's 9th Symphony, with it's moving Ode to Joy. Finished in 1824, when nearly completely deaf, it is said that the composer needed to be turned around from the conductor's podium to witness his audience's standing ovation with arms swaying in the air. The music engendered the same response today by over ten-thousand who had gathered in Copley Square. Ludwig is clearly still a rock star.

Followed by the fiddling and dancing Natalie MaMaster and New Orleans' own son Aaron Neville, there was something for everyone. 

Of course you could drive to the Tanglewood's  Berkshires, but then Copley Square is just a few short blocks away. We suggest you mark your calendars and we'll see you next year in Bodton. 

July 4th - New England Island Style

We agree that Boston offers magnificent Independence Day options - highlighted by the Boston Pops introducing the fireworks on the Charles River just behind our house. But when the weather's fair, the water calls and off we go on Blue Chip. 

       

Through the Cape Cod canal, with a lunch stop at Tarpaulin Cove to meet an MIT classmate of Steve's, then on to Martha's Vineyard and Cuttyhunk - that's the holiday island plan. 

Martha's Vineyard has much to offer. Across this 20 mile wide island, is a wide variety of geography, foliage, ponds, harbors and winding roads, punctuated by small towns, each with its own personality. 

Edgartown boasts a large protected harbor with a much appreciated launch service to our mooring. Arguably the most sophisticated town on the island, it might remind you of Nantucket Town "light".

Oak Bluffs charms with its countless rows of small, colorful Victorian homes. Time it right, and you can join the celebration at the outdoor tabernacle. 

Menemsha is a small fishing village in the islands northwest corner, with lovely beaches. This is certainly the place to go if you really want to escape. 

Along with our crew, Karen & Joe, we were fortunate to meet up with various friends who call Martha's Vineyard home. A full end to end tour from Bob and Liz revealed outlying farm stands, art galleries, biking, hiking and just how much there is to do here. Rodger and Sandy know every schedule for getting to the island, just in case you're feeling inspired. 

Cuttyhunk Island, a mere 7-8 miles away, and denoted by the blue dot on the right map, truly offers the escape we all sometimes crave. Located at the southwest end of the Elizabeth Islands, this small one square mile outpost boasts a wonderful harbor, beaches and a hilly terrain  dotted with cedar clapboard homes. Officially the town of Gosmold, the census population of 50 swells to the hundreds come summer. With islanders offering provisions, a few small restaurants, raw bar brought to your boat and fresh made donuts beginning at 6AM - or 6:30 or 7 - hey it's island time - everyone feels welcome. 

Not to be missed is the famous Cuttyhunk July 4th parade. Decorated golf carts are out in force. The fire department cools the crowd before everyone climbs the hill for local electives' welcome speaches and a batton twirling performance by Miss Massachusetts. 

Our friends Pat and Alan, who split their time between Cuttyhunk and Useppa, included us in a flury of family cocktails, BBQ and general good times, making it difficult to think of leaving. 

Even if you aren't a boater, take the daily ferry from New  Bedford and rent a house or stay at the Fishing Club B&B. There's long walks, terrific views, Pickle Ball and the nicest of folk. You'll never forget Cuttyhunk.

Although hardly a comprehensive visit of the Masdachusets islands, it's a terrific beginning for anyone interested in exploring. See you next Independence Day Weekrnd.