Monday, September 14, 2015

Chappequiddick to Cape Pogue to Chilmark

Our annual McKinsey reunion began over 20 years ago. A group of about 10 couples rotate hosting this gathering whose primary purpose is to simply enjoy each other's company and get to know the places the couples find most special. This year we are on Martha's Vineyard, home of the McArts for over twenty years and the location of one of their first dates - which goes back well over 40 years. 

                             
We begin on the "On Time II" three car Chappy Ferry that links the south eastern tip of Martha's Vineyard Edgartown to Chappaquiddick. Get there early, particularly on this weekend, the beginning of the fishing derby, where being in line for over an hour is easily the norm if you arrive after 9AM. 
                            
We meet the Trustees of Reservations for an over-sand vehicle tour of the Cape Pogue Wildlife Refuge and lighthouse. Lowland marsh, terms, countless swallows and white egrets join us as we dodge rising tides on this thin strip of land, alternating between ocean and bay. The gray skies and bursts of wind and to the mystique of a late New England summer day.  
          
   
The 35-foot Cape Pogue lighthouse was authorized by Congress in 1801 for $2,000, to guide whaling boat fleets around Cape Pogue. This picture of the was taken in 1844 after the lighthouse had been moved, due to erosion and a three room light keepers house was added. 
                       
The tower was moved several  more times, but this 35-foot red doored structure used today was the final one built in 1893. The last move was in 1987 and required a helicopter to pick up and lift the structure 500 feet inland to avoid coastal erosion. The prism encases flashing white bulbs which can be seen nine miles away.  The outside views from above are magnificent and the winding stairs could never be duplicated today. It is a bit of an effort to come here, but you will never forget it. Return by ferry to Edgartwown and enjoy lunch at the blue-umbrella emblazoned Seafood Shanty - you can't go wrong. 

                            
Small family farms have long been the soul of Martha's Vineyard and rapidly making a come back. Eric and Molly were foodies cum farmers who started the Grey Barn Farm in Chilmark, a truly bucolic area along the southwest Vineyard not far from Menemsha. The young family purchased the farm in 2009. Although they acknowledge their learning curve was beyond steep, they now have a thriving Oreo-cow dairy farm, sell milk and make wonderful cheeses that can be found at local cheese stores and Whole Foods in the New York  and New England areas - so ask! There's also beef, veal and pork production, along with laying hens. All products are available at their on-site farmstand store, unless the chalkboard sign says otherwise. Look for them at Sunday's Chilmark farmers market. 

                          
Just next door is the Kara Taylor Gallery. From stone sculptures, to oils with gold leaf, themed photos, often enhanced with self coloring or ecaustic, all the multi-media work is her own. Primarily open on weekend afternoons, Kara's gallery is worth a stop. 

Cathy Walthers was the finale to our first night on Marth's Vineyard. She is a local private chef, best known outside of Martha's Vineyard for her cookbooks: Soup and Sides, Raising the Salad Bar, Kale Glorious Kale and her upcoming book on Cocktails. We were invited to her home, just across the street from gallery and farm, to participate in a cooking and cocktail demonstration (pomegranate mint gimlets anyone?) and fantastic gourmet meal of local fish, vegetables and peach, nectarine. raspberry crostata. Yum! Keep your eye out for her recipes. They are practical, very tasty and you don't need to be over-the-top health obsessed to love them. If Steve AND Karen both approve, you know they're perfect for just about anyone!

More on Martha's Vineyard to come! 
     
     






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