Harbour Island, Eleuthera - Oh the Colors!

 

Every Bahamanian Island settlement has its own personality. On Harbour Island you're immediatly struck by the calming beauty of pastel colored wooden cottages that overflow with lush flowering tropical foliage. 

 

Every winding street has a story to tell. Whether it's St John's Anglican Church, established in 1767 and the oldest on the island, or one of its British Loyalist clapboard homes.  

 

Colorful murals celebrate, decorate or draw you inside.  Feel free to explore. Residents are happy to chat, laugh and tell you stories, even if you're "only looking". Well, okay, you might find boxes made of shells  or colorfully embroidered rayan for your granddaughters.  

 

When you're done, indulge in some time at the pink sand beaches or by the pool with a glass of iced tea and maybe a sketch pad that has been sitting idle for too long. 

The restaurants are many and all wonderful. Sip-Sip is a colorful lunchtime favorite, on top of the eastern shore cliffs, looking down where wild horses run on endless pristine pink sand beaches.  (You WANT the lobster quesadilla!) That's Harbour Island. 

Across Devil's Backbone to Harbour Island

 

After a couple of peaceful days anchoring in the Berry Islands, we're off to Eleuthera.

 

 Like most anticipating this tricky crossing, we stop at Spanish Wells to pick up a guide to assist us in navigating the Devil's Backbone coral heads between the Berry and Eleuthera islands. The guide ties his much smaller boat onto your stern, takes over as captain and he speeds away maneuvering the unmarked coral. One false turn and you better be ready to swim. There's no Tow Boat US or coastguard here. We've relied  on Bandit to guide us since our first crossing in 2006 - AND......

 

 

to supply us with Stone Crab claws -  deliciously sweet, larger than you'll ever see and as fresh as they come. When we're really lucky, "Mrs Bandit" sends along coconut bread. 

 

 Spanish Wells itself is worth a stop. It's first settlers were of Scottish descent, unexpectedly landing here when shipwrecked crossing the Devil's Backbone on their way from the Bahamas to Eleuthera in 1647. (They should have called Bandit!) They were followed in the mid-1700s by British Loyalists escaping America. (Yup - you read that right.) 

Today Spanish Wells is the primary settlement on St George's Cay with a population just under 2,000. They remain primarily of British descent, Caucasian with a very specific accent and dialect, all of which makes the island and its inhabitants unique within the Bahamas. The majority of its youth leave the island for a college education with over 95% returning to live here. Commercial fishing, lobster and stone crabs are their primary industries. The settlement was dry until about 5 years ago, when they opened up to tourism.  So we suggest you skip the Stone Crabs on South Beach and put Spanish Wells on your list. You can always fly to Eleuthera and ask Bandit to bring you across - who knows, maybe he'll offer you Stone Crabs and coconut bread!

 

Great Harbour Cay

 

The northern reaches of the Berry Islands are a delight. Very few of the islands are developed. Great Harbour Cay is one of the larger islands, with a perfect marina  - excellent in a storm, has everything you need, but not so sophisticated that you forget your in the Bahamas.  

 

Three times a month, the mail boat arrives from Nassau. Pallets move all matter of provisions to a variety of transport, as cars and vans crowd the pier awaiting their turn.  The local "all age" school boasts coat of arms, pictured here. Everyone is feeling festive!

 

We pedal over to the islands east side to the Beach Club restaurant.  Positioned along a beautifully arching ribbon of white sand and 80-degree turquoise water, it's well worth the effort. The fish is fresh, the freshly made plump burgers delicious and the Art Shack boasts local artisans creations.  Patrons drive, pedal, jet ski and wade in from anchored boats. Open for breakfast and lunch, life is truly a beach here.  

 

Our other find was Carriearl Boutique Hotel and Restaurant. Angie and her husband came here from the U.K. before the economic crash and then decided to stay on. The surroundings, company and food was so superbly spot on, we came back for a second evening. 

Great Harbour can be the perfect spot for those who want beautiful surroundings, a few modern conveniences and a true Bahamian experience.  We'll be back, so just let us know.   

We are on the Water!

 

May 7, we departed Useppa on Blue Chip, which will essentially be "home" for the next six weeks.  

 

First stop is Little Shark River, part of the Everglades 10,000 Islands National Park. The wildlife and birds are incredible here.  Needless to say, you are miles from man-made light, there's no internet and hope that your GPS is working or you could find yourself amongst these mangrove islands indefinitely! 

 

 

Birds on stakes mark the way as we cruise from west to east through the northern Keys shallow waters near Islemorada. 

Next stop Miami and on to the Bahamas. 

The Journey Continues!

We can't even begin to explain where we've been these last 9 months. Steve was teaching this past Fall at HBS. Karen was at art school in Sarasota, spending weekends with Steve on Useppa island in southwest Florida. Beyond wonderful friends, it's sailing for Steve and butterfly gardening for Karen.  

The winged guests were numerous. As we prepared to depart Useppa for a month of boating on Blue Chip, it is the black Polydamas  butterflies who dominate. 

 

Dozens can be found flitting around the garden  mating and laying their eggs.

 

Their caterpillars of all sizes munch away on our Dutcman's Pipevines, with its plate sized purple with yellow splotched flowers.  

 

This week we had the added delight of hundreds of hummingbirds descending on Useppa, particularly in the butterfly garden where there is an abundance of nectar plants. They've  been playing tag with the black Polydamas butterflies. The green feathered dimunituve birds easily blend in with their favorite firebush. 

 

The exceptional number of  enchanting hummingbirds is the result of a "fallout" having been buffeted by recent storms while on their migratory pathway North for the summer. We welcome them with plants they absolutely need to feed on in order to finish their journey - as we also prepare for our journey North.