Biking near Venice

We love to bike when on vacation and our friends Jim and Debbie, who were with us in Venice, are serious bikers - so what's more natural than to put together a 4-day biking trip of the nearby mainland? It's an opportunity to see the countryside and work off some of those calories we've been accumulating.

The countryside in this area is relatively flat. The River Po, its tributaries and canals mean that it is ideal for agriculture. Many would say this area is Italy's breadbasket. We certainly saw acres of corn, grain, pear and other fruit trees 

 ....and of course sunflowers. 

Stopping each evening in various small historical towns along the way gave a different dimension to our trip to date. The classic architecture of Mantova's town square was elegantly statuesque. 

Of course there are lunch stops along the way. Although often an Osteria in a small village, the owners of this riverside gathering spot went to their home to make us local specialties - pumpkin filled ravioli like pasta, fresh ricotta and greens tortellini, two kinds of sweet orange melon and prosciutto crudo that will spoil you forever. 

Ferrara is one of the few castles in Europe surrounded by water, the moat filled by a series of underground pipes from the nearby Vilano River Po. It's amazingly well preserved, regularly hosting art and music events. 

The entrance to Ferrera's charming town square entices with playful umbrellas. Note, August is Italy's holiday month, so these tables will begin filling up around 10 with children and adults of all ages and stay full until the wee hours, well past our "early" American bedtime. 

Chioggia and the charming 100 year old Hotel Grand Italia has brought us full circle. The vaporetto stop next to the water will bring you to the beaches of Lido or the northern shores of Venice, with its unmistakable cluster of terra cotta roofs, readily visible as they curve toward the horizon. Just beyond are the outline of the alps. 

It's been four interesting, but quite warm and tiring days of bike riding. We're questioning how many calories we actually worked off. Ciclismo Classico was as good at finding eateries as they were planning our itinerary! We thank Debby & Jim for letting us tag along. This time tomorrow we'll be back in Boston on our way to a James Taylor concert at Fenway, wondering where the time went!

Murano - Burano - Venice

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Venice is lovely anytime of year, but please don't forget the nearby islands. Buying a daily or weekly pass provides unlimited access to Venice and almost anything reachable by vaporetto - or water-bus. 

Murano is a 30 minute trip from the northern shore of Venuce. The center of town is marked with this unmistakeable blue glass sculpture. There is the glass factory museum and many shops. For the very fortunate, look for an opportunity to visit a working glass artists studio. 

Lino Tagliapietra was born and raised on Murano. For some years he has lived in Seattle, combining traditional techniques with avant guard approaches to art glass. He has galleries in London and the US, but it is his new gallery on Murano, run by his son Silvano, that provides an intimate view of his work. Lino is considered by most to be the best living glass blower of our time. 

These are some of his newer vessels. Pieces are usually blown (hot work)in the United States, but often the fine engraving (cold work) which gives these pieces their uniquely fine detail, are sent back to Murano and its artisans. 

Lino has tremendous variety in his work. This 6 foot panel, remiscent of a Gustav Klimt piece actually has tremendous depth. If your lucky, there is also a personal upstairs gallery that is a mini retrospective. 

Amy West is a Midwest born and raised artist who came to Murano some years ago. Her work also varies from finely etched vessels to translucent water and cloud colored gem like beads that are strung together into jewelry that seems to almost float around the neck. I'm particularly attracted to her opaque River stones, which are modeled after the variety found along specific rivers in the region. Her work is found in galleries in London, New York and Boston. 

And then there is Burano. Traditionally known for lace making, you can still find lovely fabrics here. But it is the boldly colored houses that can be seen reflected in the canal water that will make your jaw drop! 

It's said the origin of these brightly colored buildings was to guarantee finding one's way home even in the deepest fog. Today the weave a maze you will be happy to get lost in. 

Back in Venice, there is always something new to see. The Bienalle Architettura Venice is currently happening. The 2016 theme is "Reporting From the Front," which is an investigation into the role of architects in the battle to improve the living conditions for people all over the world. The theme aims to focus on architecture which works within the constraints presented by a lack of resources, and those designs which subvert the status quo to produce architecture for the common good - no matter how small the success." 

The results are amazing. Besides the country specific Pavillion installations, there is the multi country Arsenale, which I often like better. Besides these more abstract ideas, the artists also referenced yurt villages in Mongolia, massive refugee solutions and Kumba Mella in India which is in its own way a "city" when 100 million regularly gather for a 55 day pilgrimage celebration. And yes, MIT was also represented here. 

The islands of Venice and its surrounds. Simply amazing! We were so fortunate to have our 5 precious days here. 

The Merchant of Venice - The Idea that Launched our Trip

Last October Karen was visiting Venice and heard that in celebration of the 500th anniversary of the Venice ghetto and the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare's birth, the Merchant of Venice would be performed outdoors at the Venice Ghetto in English. Besides a number of related activities, Ruth Bader Ginsberg would preside at a mock trial of Shylock, Antonio and Portia. Certainly a very tempting proposition.  Then we discovered MIT's humanities department was intimately involved along with PBS, the BBC, Columbia and Ca’ Foscari University. How could we miss this?

Landing in Venice is in itself a special experience. Flying over the Adriatic Sea in preparation for landing on the last piece of the mainland that will link you to this magical city of islands, you approach looking down on farmland that turns into lacy appearing lagoons and ultimately the islands that comprise Venice. 

We stayed at Ca' Sagredo along the Grand Canal in the Cannaregio area, close to the Ghetto Nuevo in the northwest part of Venice and a good 15 minute walk from the crowds of St. Mark's square. What a magnificent hotel and convenient venue just far enough away from the stifling crowds. 

The performance was an insightful and unique interpretation by Ca’ Foscari University. We did our homework beforehand both reading the text and watching the Al Pacine, Jeremy Irons version on DVD - highly recommended. The story is often thought to reflect negatively on people of Jewish heritage. However, particularly seen through the lens of today's xenophobic events, it begs the question if Shakespeare was in fact thinking about how those that are thought of as "different" are perceived and unfairly treated. 

Steve had his moment with Supreme Court Justice Ginsberg. They compared notes on her time at Harvard Law School as one of the first female students, along with  Steve's cousin. 

The trial with the US Ambassadir to Italy, along with three other Italian and US dignitaries or academics as judges, three as prosecutors and two as commentariats had everyone on the edge of their seat.  We won't tell you the judges' decision, you can get that from bthe New York Times, but we will say the event was as memorable as the play. 

A tour of three of the original remaining synagogues still used today was incredibly interesting, along with explanations of the ghetto's evolution. Jewish people found Venice and the surrounding area as a relatively safe haven from persecution as early as the 13th century. The Ghetto, which means foundary, was an area where scrap ores had been kept. At the time, the then powerful city of Venice was encouraging immigration and welcomed the Jewish people. In the 16th century, the Ghetto was a mutually agreed upon area between the Jewish community and the Italin government. It created a safe haven for the much persecuted Jewish people from the rest of Europe. Jewish people were restricted in their profession so as not to compete with Italians. They were locked in behind the Ghetto's gates after nightfall, which served both parties. It's  doors were permanently opened by Napolean in 1747, when there were as many as 5,000 living here. Today there are less than 400 Venetsin Jews. 

Our group of six MIT event sponsors enjoyed a private tour of the Guggenheim, which even Steve found interesting. Peggy Guggenheim was an orphan of the Titanic, Jewish and a woman ahead of her time who marched to the  tune of a different drummer. She famously purchased more than one art piece per day to protect the art  from possible destruction by the Nazis. 

The Dodge's Apartment Palazzo Ducale's fantastic exhibit "Venice the Jews and Europe 1516 to 2016". The content, technology and insight was superb. 

In all we had a fantastic time and met wonderful people. We learned a tremendous amount and are grateful to all those who conceived and executed this anniversary event. We would do it again in a second!