Rome - Molto Bene

                            

Rome - where to begin? Fortunately Cinzia, a friend who recently moved back to Rome and who also has a background in architecture, came to my rescue. There were countless kilometers of walking, fortified with latte macchiato and high octane vegetable juices and you too can conquer much of Rome in a minimal amount of time. 

         

The Colosseum can't help but impress. Since pedestrian streets mean that  traffic is no longer an issue, you can wander around, envisioning the power the Flavian Ampitheatre had on its early guests in 80AD, when inaugurated by Emperor Titus. 100 days of celebratory games and the destruction of thousands of wild beasts set the tone for the Coliseum, until slaughter-as-sport was outlawed in 523AD. 

  

                        

A short distance down the street is Fora Romano - a series of forums, each built by successive emperors leaving their mark. The Forum of Nerva still boasts two Corinthian columns and a frieze depicting the myth of Arachne. 

                       

Layers of Roman life are revealed, with brick filling in for missing marble to show how columns were pieced together. Column decoration - Ionic, Doric or Corinthian - help to indicate age. They ages are all older than you can ever imagine - think Augustus completion in 42BC, Julius Cesar, Claudius and Nero, who watch Rome burn in 64AD, plus Titus and others. 

       

A panorama reaches across centuries. It includes  112AD Colona Traina, (Column of Trajan), the domed baroque 1685 Santissimo Nome Di Maria al Foro Traiano Church, (Church of the Holy Name), with a peek to the left of Altare Della Patria, (Altar of the Fatherland), inaugurated in 1911 to celebrate Victor Emanuelle, the first king of a unified Italy and is known for including the monument which contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, built after WWI. 

                                    

The narrow winding streets of the Jewish quarter, is one of the most ancient and truly Roman areas of the city. It is known to be the oldest Jewish community in Europe. And one of the oldest continuous Jewish settlements in the world. Near the Tibris River, it's a place to wander, escape the crowds and eat amazing food. 

                                  

The silence that can be found inside small neighborhood churches create an instant sanctuary. Each has its own character, yet keeping them separate in your mind can be a challenge. 

          

              

Piazza Navona is one of Rome's loveliest pedestrian squares. Bernini designed the central Fountain of the Four Rivers. The square is lined with palaces, and today, cafes. 

                       

The Parthenon - a marvel in 125AD - still awes hundreds of years later. It's airy interior and perfect proportion remain a wonder of the world. The bold 27-foot hole at the top of the dome's center provides light and structural support. The entire structure's design seems to hover, weightless.  

Cross the Tibris and to Vatican City's Saint Peter's Square and Basillica. Covering 120 acres, it is a theocracy to just over 550 citizens, headed by the pope. What may be most incredible, is it's extremely close proximity to busy streets filled with shops, cafes and homes. Imagine the White House in the middle of Boston's Beacon Street or New York City's West village. 

        

Michelangelo, Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Donata Bramante were the most renowned architects of St Peter's Basillica. There is something about the symmetry that brings a sense of peace and containment. 

                                   

Before leaving Rome, make sure to find time to wander the Villa Borghese park. The southern views over the city can't be beat. Wander the gardens, rent a bicycle or visit it's wonderful museums. The Bourghese Gallery has a number of famous works and might require calling ahead to reserve tickets. The Galleria Nazionalle d'Arte Moderna has a collection of Italian focused and European art from the late 1800's until today. 

           

Setting the stage to the d'Arte Nationalle, the entrance combines cracked Venetian glass, topped with plaster cast of renowned female Roman statuary - juxtaposing the old with the new. 

                       

The art collection is broad - filled with names you know and others that you wan to know better. Originally built as a summer residence to the Borghese family, as a retreat from their Roman residence, this heart shaped garden continues to act as a retreat to many - residents and guests alike - so visit!

This overciew is about half of what was visited in less than three days. There's certianly so much more to experience. And I didn't even mention the food, the markets and the sidewalk cafes! Whats's the secret? A good friend whose keeps you from getting lost and contagious enthusiasm motivates you to wander down one more street.  Thank you Cinzia!

 

    

   

 

 

 

Venice - Arts excursions

   

                      

The Venice Bienalle is a much lauded international event that originated in 1895 to promote tourism. These days, tourism is certainly not an issue, but the Bienalle is certainly an important reason to travel to Venice between May and Novmber.  MIT has represented the US three times. This year, Paul Ha, the MIT contemporary art LIST museum director was the American Pavillion curator. H selected Joan Jonas, a pioneer of video and performance art and one time MIT instructor, who at 79, created what was easily one of the best and most memorable exhibits at this year's Bienalle, which was themed All the World's Future. 

                       

    

Jonas installation certainly reflects the Bienalle theme and brings you through four multimedia rooms reflecting fragility, loss, regeneration and conservation. It is an emotional, multi layered experience. Images of our delicate environment are layered with fragility of age seen in conjunction with video of youth interspersed with Joan Jonas in the winter of her life. It is a visually charged, highly personal yet universal conversation, where each viewer is free to take away what speaks to them. 

        

Although there were many notable pavilions, the Japanese "Key in Hand" by Berlin artist Chiharu Shiota had a sense of beauty and emotionality difficult to put into words. The exhibit took two months to install with its 15-thousand keys. Endless red string acts as a linear origami and along with other familiar daily life object, brings the viewer through a multilayered dream-like sense of the known and the unknown - life and death - light and darkeness and the possibility of spiritual brightness. According to the curator, "this is a light that is inherent not only in tremendous anxiety that plagues Japanese people but in the precarious state of things all over the world."

Other notable exhibits were Australia - voted most popular at the May opening - Switzerland, Denmark and  Holland. Look them up and take a tour. 

                

 The Peggy Gugegenheim Collection is not to be missed. Founded in 1951, it is clearly a personal act of love and considered one of the most important museums in Italy for European and American 20th century art. Picasso, Leger, Pollock (Peggy was his first financial benefactor), Max Ernst her one time husband - the list is a whose who of early 20th century art.

               

The experience is also personal. Note this Calder bedframe, made for and used by Peggy Guggenheim in this room. A unique woman for any age, she was born in 1898 to a wealthy New York family. Her father went down in the Titanic and she was the niece of Soloman R. Guggenheim who would establish the famed NY Guggenheim. Peggy made Venice her home. She evolved, traded and created this collection between 1938 and 1946. Exhibited in her home on the Grand Canal, it is one of Venice's most visited attractions - so plan on getting there early or do as we did and find a group that obtains unique access.  To find out more about this unque woman, look up Anton Gil, who was is her official biographer. 

                   

The Palzzo Grassi is a physical space worth experiencing as it strips an  ancient structure to its bare essence with exposed brick and wooden beams. Director Marco Ferraris introduces us to the current exhibit, Slip of the Tounge, curated by Danish-Vietnamese Dan Ho, who was the contributor of the Danish Biennale exhibit. 

                 

Palazzo Furtuny in some ways is reminiscent of the Musee d'Orsay. An ancient home in San Marco, it is a gothic building transformed by Mario Fortuny into his own atelier of photography, paintings, stage design and and textiles - some of which are subtly seen in several of the galleries behind the work. The contemporary art is the big surprise. Some is intermixed with ancient art, others invite you into their  own unique space. Allow for time to stroll and enjoy. 

                    

The Armenain Pavillion won the Golden Lion for the Best In Show. Amenity is an installation of 18 artists works that speaks to the Armenian diaspora. These exhibits are interspersed with the permanent collection which is considered to be the cultural center of the Armenian people. The Pavillion is  located on the island of San Lazzaro degli Armeni at the Mekhhitarist Monastery, founded in 1717 by Mekhinar who was born in the Ottoman Empire and came to Venice during the hostilities between the Turks and Venetians. He was given the outlying island of San Lazzaro where the focus was to translate western Christian works into Armenian and still remains the headquarters of this congregation. The winning of this prestigious award was highly controversial. Certianly the art work and it's installation was comparatively  uneven. However, the history of an people and the monestary itself is worth a visit at any time. There must be reasons why it was the only Venetian monastic institute spared by Napoleon and Lord Byron chose to spend time here. 

         

What art visit would be complete without a visit to an artist studio? Giovanni Soccol lives wit Margarite in an artist garrison that is hundreds of years old. On the top floor, skylights offer incredible northern light. Two large rooms would have been used for painting and exhibiting work, while small rooms are reserved for living. 

                       

A contemporary painter, one of the things that makes Giovanni unique is his mixing of paints by hand from oils and natural binders. A nearly lost art, it is particularly surprising considering the contemporary nature of his work. The maze like images feel both like the caverns experinced when rowing on narrow Venetian canals between buildings or possibly the asphalt canyons he was exposed to when teaching in New York. In any case, it was a privilege to visit his home and a reminder to never give up the opportunity to visit an artist studio. 

                                

Enough art, it is time for lunch at the recently restored 16-th century Aman Grand Canal hotel. A magnificent building which hosts an original Tiepolo painting, old master frescoes, two gardens and some of the most beautiful Venetian chandeliers and mirrors your likely to see. Just steps from the Rialto Bridge and a vaparetto to bring you to St. Mark's Square - it is a slice of sanity - even if you just stop by for a visit.  

  

   

 

Venice + Glass = Murano

         

With a flag like this, Venetians are letting you know their creativity doesn't stay within boundaries. You can spend weeks here and not see every gallery and museum. Then there are the churches and Palazzos, easily worth another two weeks. MIT's glass lab director, Peter Houk, brings us to the island of Murano - known worldwide for its glass. 

                     

Lino Tagliapietra is easily considered THE Master Glassblower of Murano, and many would say of the world. In his 80's, he's been living for a number of years in Seattle. We were met by his son Silvano to view some of the latest work in his new gallery next to the family home.  His pieces can be over six feet long or four feet tall; utilizing traditional along with new, etched, carved and combining methods so extreme that to see a body of his work, you would think that it represented a dozen different artists. And that's what he's worked on recently. Nearly every year Lino and his team come to MIT to work through glass challenges, some of which have led to his innovations. For the students (and for me), watching and working with team Tagliapietra is pure magic! 

                    

Amy West is originally from the US mid-west, but has been on Murano for over a decade. She too has a variety of styles AND is a woman - two highly unusual factors for a Murano Glassblower. That she is so well regarded amongst her Italian peers as an American is unheard of. Although much of her work is translucent, these pictured pieces are from her Riverrock series and reflect particular stones from the nearby mountains. If her work looks familiar, it may be because she was included in a Conde Naste's what-not-to-miss-in-Venice. Or because more than one MOMO curator has purchased her work. Personally, I couldn't resist. Amy is visiting Boston this Fall and will be having a show on Charles Street.  She's planning to stay at "Kaufman Arms", so let me know if you would like a preview. And by the way - she's absolutely lovely!

                   

Murano glass is as diverse as its artists. Like many arts oriented locations, particularly in Venice, it is a skill that is taught by senior artisans. Because people are moving away from Venuce, there is less opportunity to pass skills that have literally evolved over hundreds of years. Make your way to Murano - 20 minutes by vaparetto. Enjoy escaping from the hectic crowds that are Venice. Wander the streets beyond the shops (ok, don't forget the Scent Sisters), the restaurants and the galleries and get a brief glimpse into a way of life that has existed on this island for nearly 2,000 years. 

 

 

 

Venice - the Floating City

  

      

      

Even on the cloudy grey days, arriving in Venice is magical. Domes and spires appear over the horizon.  Vaporettos and all manner of small boats dart across the water. Thanks to the MIT's Joan Jonas representing the US at the Venice Biennale, it is also the destination for CAMIT's (Council for he Arts at MIT's) biennial art trip from October 1-6. I arrive from Milan, ready to meet 30 of our members and settle into a week of art, walking, art, food, art and did I mention we were going to immerse ourselves in art? Okay, first the non- art events. 

                          

Ghetto" is the Venetian word for foundry. A northern Cannaregio area island was far from the then city center and safe for metal work. In 1516 it was the location mutually agreed upon residence for the mostly Europan Jewish refugee population by the then powerful Venice Republic. The concept of Jewish "containment" was born here under friendly terms, however the concept of Jewish ghetto reappears hundreds of years later in ways the world is likely to never forget. This containment ensured life-style restrictions imposed  by Jewish law while also ensuring that the Jews not set-up and practice the manual trades that Venetian law restricted them from. Consequently, the Jewish communities skilled doctors and money-lenders freely traveled the Venetian islands and served the artistic Venetians who helped build and decorate their synagogues, the first of which was complete in 1528. At its height, 5,000 lived here. Few returned from the Nazi camps after WWII and now the population is under 500.  And yes the Kaufmann's were here and still are. Seeing my name tag, a woman appeared out of her shop to invite me in to view a prayer book containing the Passover readings used by the Venetian Kaufmann's. (Note there's a story to the double "n".) And for you Risotto lovers - the Jews are credited with introducing rice-based dishes - so you now know who to thank.  I'm attempting to convince Steve to come back here in late July for a live performance of Shakepeare's, The Merchant of Venice, in English with Ruth Ginsburg as the judge. I kid you not!

        

             

Gondolas were originally designed over 1,000 years ago. We had lunch in one of the few remaining gondola boatyards and did we learn a lot! Traditionally, it was favored to have an arched cover to enable fires for warmth and to decorate with paint and gold gilding to indicate position and wealth. A 1562 law ensured the uniformly black paint familiar today, so that those suffering from plague could not be prejudiced against. Breaking  this strictly enforced rule was punishable by rowing slaves for 5-years. At one time there were 150 models made in 50 different locations.  Today there are 15 models built in only 5 locations. Wood is still brought from surrounding mountain areas and the skill of building is still passed down by word of mouth. Over 1,860 exist today and are strictly for tourists. It takes years of training to become licensed and master the 350-kg boats with 11-meter long oars and the 8-position sculpted "forcola" oarlock. So if you were thinking this might be a career option - know it's not as easy as it looks and you have to look REALLY good in stripes. 

 

   

   

Founazione Prada - Milan

         

A quick last note on Milan. Take a 15 minute cab ride south west of the city center to Largo Israco 2, in the Porta Romana neighborhood, to the Fondazione Prada that opened in May of 2015. The complex of ten buildings has been designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhas on the site of an old distillery. Now Milan's newest and largest contemporary art gallery, with performance space and eating space, it not only blends new and old, it also combines materials in a most unexpected way. 

                        

Gold gilding of 24-karat gold is juxtaposed against cement, mirrors, stucco and cross cut wood. A series of buildings are both organized and maze like - an experience in themselves. Performance space allows seats on cubes, platforms and soft cubes for nearly constant exhibition of movement that changes at whim. 

                            

Although there are many varied installation and gallery pieces, it's a joy to stumble on these Giacometti inspired pieces. Always a favorite sculptor and artist, these pieces put the idea of his woman in an entirely new context. Something you thought was familiar, now needs to be re-examined. 

        

Far less disturbing than the GYN-fishbowl examination room or some of the multimedia and video work. You will certainly stop, think and enjoy the wide variety of offerings, as well as the architect true itself. 

The Prada opening, like Louis Vutton in Paris,  comes at a time when direct investment from luxury good brands are beginning to fill a void left by government cutbacks. But, if for no other reason, going to the Prada Foundation will give you the opportunity to see a different, yet historical, part of Milan. Spend a morning or a few hours in the afternoon. You will be so pleased that you did. 

   

 

    

Supermarket of the Future - Expo 2015

                              

Milan's Expo 2015 is very much like a world's fair with international food production and sustainability as its primary theme. Naturally there were hosts of school groups making there way through, gathering stickers, posing with people in national dress and sampling food - I liked the Iranian Dolmas, but I'm certain the Belgian waffles and fries were a big hit with this demographic. 

                         

The architecture was generally amazing. This Malaysian Pavillion exemplified a popular theme which included curvilinear organic shapes utilizing particularly natural looking materials. Another theme was mirrored surfaces, brining you into the space and seamlessly, blending architecture with audience. 

       

The real standout was easily the Supermarket of the Future. The thinking and technology came from MIT's Carla Ratti's Senseable City Lab and her design firm, Carla Rassi's Associatti, whom worked with Italian food chain COOP to execute this futuristic mode of grocery shopping. 

                   

 You pick up,a piece of fruit and a screen above tells you on what farm it was grown, what its carbon foot print cost the environment in moving it to the store, as well as its caloric content and price. The same is true for meet, dry goods, dairy chees, wine or a jar of pesto.

         

           

           

Want to ensure that heirloom tomato doesn't  get bruised? Let the robotic arms prepack it  for you. Then everything is moved to the counter for scanning, but don't worry about those pesky scanning codes that never seem to work, just put your basket on the counter and the readers "find" all your barcodes, even if everything is piled up. 

Think about how increasingly difficult it is to find a regular person-operated check out counter and the increased interest many of us have in what we're buying, where it comes from and how it might benefit us. It's not much of a stretch to imagine that this will indeed be the supermarket of our not-too-distant future. 

   

    

Milan - Everything Italy, Everything Within Reach

            

Milan is that Italian city not everyone has on their travel list. But since the NY Times had it as their #1 choice for 2015, there must be a reason why. It could be the newly renovated La Scala theatre or one of it's famous fashion houses, the massive castle Sforzesco or it's numerous museums in grand ancient buildings. 

I'm going for the Duomo.  Founded in 1386, it was consecrated in 1418 but wasn't finished until 1812, under Napolean. It's an incredible example of Gothic architecture with its 2,254 statues, 135 soaring spires and 96 gargoyles. The interior holds 40,000. (Yup, that's more than Fenway.)  And as you can see, it's all about the light. You can walk by its facade via the tremendous pigeon-feeding peopled piazza countless times and it will never look quite the same. Or follow the locals and take your lunch to the top to eat amongst the gargoyles with views that extend beyond the city.

           

     

Linking the Piazza del Duomo and the Piazza del Scala is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The elegant cross shaped, glass roofed arcade was built between 1865 and 1898. Today it is filled with shops, bookstores and eateries. It's tremendous glass domed roof, mosaic floors and fresco painted walls are a delight. Sip a cappuccino or a Compari and soda while watching the world go by after an evening performance at La Scala.

The Palazzo Reale is equally close to the Duomo. In the 11th century, it was the seat of the city council. Mozart performed here in 1770. Today, like many other Milan addresses, it's actually a labyrinth of several smaller neoclassical buildings. On Monday it's one of the few museums open in the city. But take care, next to the Duomo Museum entrance, you may think your entering a lecture or performance art, when instead  you've walked right into the "Marriage  Hall". Dozens of people look at you expectantly as you sheepishly walk out - and so wishing you'd had your camera!

But you might move onto a fabulous Gioto  exhibit. His incredible sense of form, color and perspective, along with his unique blue, made him incredibly popular and wealthy during his life between 1266 and 1337. On the same ticket, and just across the hall is the endless galleries housing "The Great Mother", curated by  Massimilano Gioni, the former Venice Biennale Curator. It's both a historical and creative retrospective of woman through the ages, reminding us how, just below the surface, the view of women and their rights are stil quite tentative. A wide range of art & history that will certainly make you think!

Bicycles aren't as popular as scooters - or gelato (You will NEVER see so many really well dressed men licking wafer cones.) but bike stands and rental bikes are everywhere. This is certainly also a walking city, but it's incredible contemporary underground metro is very tempting. Or if you prefer staying above ground, there's the wooden trolley cars - at least if they've yet to be sold to San Francisco. 

And then of course there's the trickier part of navigation - reading signs that are not in your language. Looking all over for Museum 900 because you didn't realize what "novocento" meant. (BTW - An amazing collection of wonderfully exhibited Italian late 1800 through this century in a Guggenheim-like spiral space that ensures you see the progression of approach.) 

Then there are the "international" street signs. Streets with NO people traffic makes sense when you realize it's  a narrow trolley passage, but from afar, well  could it have been statement-art? And if anyone knows what the person carrying the white bar means - please let me know!