Tuesday, October 13, 2015

Rome - Molto Bene


                            
Rome - where to begin? Fortunately Cinzia, a friend who recently moved back to Rome and who also has a background in architecture, came to my rescue. There were countless kilometers of walking, fortified with latte macchiato and high octane vegetable juices and you too can conquer much of Rome in a minimal amount of time. 
         
The Colosseum can't help but impress. Since pedestrian streets mean that  traffic is no longer an issue, you can wander around, envisioning the power the Flavian Ampitheatre had on its early guests in 80AD, when inaugurated by Emperor Titus. 100 days of celebratory games and the destruction of thousands of wild beasts set the tone for the Coliseum, until slaughter-as-sport was outlawed in 523AD. 
  
                        
A short distance down the street is Fora Romano - a series of forums, each built by successive emperors leaving their mark. The Forum of Nerva still boasts two Corinthian columns and a frieze depicting the myth of Arachne. 
                       
Layers of Roman life are revealed, with brick filling in for missing marble to show how columns were pieced together. Column decoration - Ionic, Doric or Corinthian - help to indicate age. They ages are all older than you can ever imagine - think Augustus completion in 42BC, Julius Cesar, Claudius and Nero, who watch Rome burn in 64AD, plus Titus and others. 
       
A panorama reaches across centuries. It includes  112AD Colona Traina, (Column of Trajan), the domed baroque 1685 Santissimo Nome Di Maria al Foro Traiano Church, (Church of the Holy Name), with a peek to the left of Altare Della Patria, (Altar of the Fatherland), inaugurated in 1911 to celebrate Victor Emanuelle, the first king of a unified Italy and is known for including the monument which contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, built after WWI. 
                                    
The narrow winding streets of the Jewish quarter, is one of the most ancient and truly Roman areas of the city. It is known to be the oldest Jewish community in Europe. And one of the oldest continuous Jewish settlements in the world. Near the Tibris River, it's a place to wander, escape the crowds and eat amazing food. 
                                  
The silence that can be found inside small neighborhood churches create an instant sanctuary. Each has its own character, yet keeping them separate in your mind can be a challenge. 

          
              
Piazza Navona is one of Rome's loveliest pedestrian squares. Bernini designed the central Fountain of the Four Rivers. The square is lined with palaces, and today, cafes. 
                       
The Parthenon - a marvel in 125AD - still awes hundreds of years later. It's airy interior and perfect proportion remain a wonder of the world. The bold 27-foot hole at the top of the dome's center provides light and structural support. The entire structure's design seems to hover, weightless.  
Cross the Tibris and to Vatican City's Saint Peter's Square and Basillica. Covering 120 acres, it is a theocracy to just over 550 citizens, headed by the pope. What may be most incredible, is it's extremely close proximity to busy streets filled with shops, cafes and homes. Imagine the White House in the middle of Boston's Beacon Street or New York City's West village. 
        
Michelangelo, Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Donata Bramante were the most renowned architects of St Peter's Basillica. There is something about the symmetry that brings a sense of peace and containment. 
                                   
Before leaving Rome, make sure to find time to wander the Villa Borghese park. The southern views over the city can't be beat. Wander the gardens, rent a bicycle or visit it's wonderful museums. The Bourghese Gallery has a number of famous works and might require calling ahead to reserve tickets. The Galleria Nazionalle d'Arte Moderna has a collection of Italian focused and European art from the late 1800's until today. 
           
Setting the stage to the d'Arte Nationalle, the entrance combines cracked Venetian glass, topped with plaster cast of renowned female Roman statuary - juxtaposing the old with the new. 
                       
The art collection is broad - filled with names you know and others that you wan to know better. Originally built as a summer residence to the Borghese family, as a retreat from their Roman residence, this heart shaped garden continues to act as a retreat to many - residents and guests alike - so visit!

This overciew is about half of what was visited in less than three days. There's certianly so much more to experience. And I didn't even mention the food, the markets and the sidewalk cafes! Whats's the secret? A good friend whose keeps you from getting lost and contagious enthusiasm motivates you to wander down one more street.  Thank you Cinzia!
 

    






   










 
 
 

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