Farmer's Market, Tribal Lands, Nude Beach, Denim, Sailing, Donuts, Jazz Bands & French Films

                         

Although breakfast awaits overlooking the Gay Head Cliffs, you won't want to miss Sunday's West Tisbury Farmer's Market. This manageably sized, outdoor market offers everything from veggies and fruits to, alpaca and woolen goods, meats, fish, eggs, soaps, candles, cheeses (remember Gray Barn Farm?), juices and baked goods. But the winner of the day was the flowers. You may never have seen a more color intensive selection. They were everywhere!

                          

Aquinnah, located on the island's far south west corner may boast a mere population of 311, but is packed with natural beauty. It is the center of the Native American Wampang culture,who were harvesting whales using small boats and long harpoons far before it became a thriving industry of the settlers. Drive or bike to the  Aquinnah shop and restaurant for a good food and amazing views from atop the Gay Head cliffs.

                        

The red clay of Gay Head cliffs are part of Wampang lore.  It also boast miles long sandy beach, punctuated by the nude Jungle Beach to the far west - just in case your looking to erase those pesky tan lines. The iconic 170 foot brick Gay Head light was first built in 1799. Rebuilt in 1856, cliff erosion has caused it to be moved back several times, but its remains on the island's most westerly point. It's red flashing light can be seen every 15 seconds from as fas 24 miles away. 

         

A stop in Menemsha's working harbor reminds you of the island's origins and that fish really does come from the water - not just the grocery store. Fresh fish can be bought to bring  home or eat right there on a lovely, quiet beach.  Menemsha Blue has a small retail store here, which may be one of the few places you can actually find a denim shirt made of - well denim.  Can't make it here? Try  ordering online. It's a classic. 

                       

The Alabama was built in 1926 was designed by Thomas McManus, a man widely regarded as the best designer of Gloucester fishing schooners. After a long retirement and a 90% facelift funded by Black Dog owner and completed by Captian Morgan Douglas, she was out back to work in 1997. The fishing schooner was an American invention and ships like her were relied on to provide the country with a staple of its economy, codfish. For us, it was the pleasure of hoisting sales, eating clams on the half shell, rum drinks and a grand sunset, right out of Vineyard Haven.

                      

After the sun goes down, we're off to Oak Bluffs for "Back Door Donuts." How the local bakery keeps up with its morning delivery, when the que for warm donuts snakes around the block is anyone's guess. The Extraordinary Rendition Band could be heard for blocks and must have been making its way from the Victorian Cottage community down to the village green. All we know is that we wondered if we weren't suddenly in New Orleans. Apparently the wonderfully costumed, jazz style band follow the national Jazz Fests, so keep your eyes and ears open.

         

The Manor House, our sprawling Victorian hotel, began its life in Vineyard Haven in 1791. Located on Main Street, it's within minutes of the ferry and harbor, with amazing views from its cupola and just at the edge of impressive and diverse shopping. And yes, you will enjoy modern amenities and a fantastic health club and spa.  Not to be missed, two of Martha's Vineyard Film theaters have been refurbished and are in walking distance from  the Manor House. We saw two entries from far sides of the spectrum - LBTG "Une Nouvelle Amie" and bucket list "The Hundred Year Old Man Who Jumped Out of the Window and Disappeared". We'll let you guess who liked which one best.

                          

Each of the Massachusets Iislands has its own personality. Martha's Vineyard is arguably the most artistic, diverse and has a sense of humor.  If you've not been here before, we encourage you to visit. If you have been here before, come back. Rent a car. Take a bike. Explore. There's truly something for everyone. 

  

    

    

    

Chappequiddick to Cape Pogue to Chilmark

Our annual McKinsey reunion began over 20 years ago. A group of about 10 couples rotate hosting this gathering whose primary purpose is to simply enjoy each other's company and get to know the places the couples find most special. This year we are on Martha's Vineyard, home of the McArts for over twenty years and the location of one of their first dates - which goes back well over 40 years. 

                             

We begin on the "On Time II" three car Chappy Ferry that links the south eastern tip of Martha's Vineyard Edgartown to Chappaquiddick. Get there early, particularly on this weekend, the beginning of the fishing derby, where being in line for over an hour is easily the norm if you arrive after 9AM. 

                            

We meet the Trustees of Reservations for an over-sand vehicle tour of the Cape Pogue Wildlife Refuge and lighthouse. Lowland marsh, terms, countless swallows and white egrets join us as we dodge rising tides on this thin strip of land, alternating between ocean and bay. The gray skies and bursts of wind and to the mystique of a late New England summer day.  

          

   

The 35-foot Cape Pogue lighthouse was authorized by Congress in 1801 for $2,000, to guide whaling boat fleets around Cape Pogue. This picture of the was taken in 1844 after the lighthouse had been moved, due to erosion and a three room light keepers house was added. 

                       

The tower was moved several  more times, but this 35-foot red doored structure used today was the final one built in 1893. The last move was in 1987 and required a helicopter to pick up and lift the structure 500 feet inland to avoid coastal erosion. The prism encases flashing white bulbs which can be seen nine miles away.  The outside views from above are magnificent and the winding stairs could never be duplicated today. It is a bit of an effort to come here, but you will never forget it. Return by ferry to Edgartwown and enjoy lunch at the blue-umbrella emblazoned Seafood Shanty - you can't go wrong. 

                            

Small family farms have long been the soul of Martha's Vineyard and rapidly making a come back. Eric and Molly were foodies cum farmers who started the Grey Barn Farm in Chilmark, a truly bucolic area along the southwest Vineyard not far from Menemsha. The young family purchased the farm in 2009. Although they acknowledge their learning curve was beyond steep, they now have a thriving Oreo-cow dairy farm, sell milk and make wonderful cheeses that can be found at local cheese stores and Whole Foods in the New York  and New England areas - so ask! There's also beef, veal and pork production, along with laying hens. All products are available at their on-site farmstand store, unless the chalkboard sign says otherwise. Look for them at Sunday's Chilmark farmers market. 

                          

Just next door is the Kara Taylor Gallery. From stone sculptures, to oils with gold leaf, themed photos, often enhanced with self coloring or ecaustic, all the multi-media work is her own. Primarily open on weekend afternoons, Kara's gallery is worth a stop. 

Cathy Walthers was the finale to our first night on Marth's Vineyard. She is a local private chef, best known outside of Martha's Vineyard for her cookbooks: Soup and Sides, Raising the Salad Bar, Kale Glorious Kale and her upcoming book on Cocktails. We were invited to her home, just across the street from gallery and farm, to participate in a cooking and cocktail demonstration (pomegranate mint gimlets anyone?) and fantastic gourmet meal of local fish, vegetables and peach, nectarine. raspberry crostata. Yum! Keep your eye out for her recipes. They are practical, very tasty and you don't need to be over-the-top health obsessed to love them. If Steve AND Karen both approve, you know they're perfect for just about anyone!

More on Martha's Vineyard to come! 

     

     

Labor Day Week - Boating and Longtime Friends

           

For us, there's no better way to face the end of summer than to spend a day on Blue Chip before school begins. What would make it truly memorable? Sharing it with special friends on a day with picture perfect weather. Check and check!

Valerie and Alan Adler are friends of  Steve's, who have been living in Israel for decades. We were thrilled that during their most recent stateside visit, we found a day where they could join us with their New York and  Massachusets family - composed of Ruth, Alan's sister, along with son Michael, daughter Tina and son in-law Ted, along with their three amazing granddaughters who simply blew us away with their maturity and presence. Wonderful crew, great company and all three grand-girls dove inton the Salem Harbor waters with their Uncle Michael. Diving into the Massachusetts waters just for the fun of it? A Blue Chip first! (Us Kaufmans are renowned cold water wimps.) 

                                

 There are certain friends you truly wish were closer by. That would be Val and Alan. You may remember their generously hosting us a year ago in Israel and Petra. We know the flight isn't really that long, but it's a bit too far to drop by and share Shabbat, one of our nicest memories from the last Israel visit. But who knows? Maybe we can take turns?