Historical, enjoyable Mystic Seaport

 A working preservation shipyard and a recreated 19th century seafaring village are just a couple of reasons why Conecticut's Mystic Seaport is worth visiting. We stopped here 10 days ago on our way back from Long Island. 

Arriving by boat requires coordinating timing with a vascular bridge, which swings closed to allow both Amtrack  to whizz by and long cargo trains to lumber through. There aren't many of these swinging bridges left and they're always interesting. This one is particularly large and wide, making a dramatic arc across the water that is worth waiting for, unless you're really hungry for that mid afternoon ice cream. 

           

                      

Mystic Seaport is a fairly large complex of both live period demonstrations relative to 19th century life and various museums reflecting the technology and lifestyle of that time. For children,  there are several hands on "maker" opportunities, so bring a child along so you can join in the fun. The Museum of America and the Sea is considered to be the nation's leading maritime museum. 

                   

The Charles W. Morgan is the jewel of Mystic Seaport. This whaleship was launched in 1841. After an 80-year career that spanned the globe, she is the oldest American commercial vessel still afloat and the last remaining wooden whaleship in the world. This summer she embarked on a voyage to several New England destinations, and was actually in Boston while we were in Mystic. But we got a glimpse of her through the exhibits and workshops and will have to return to see the her when she gets home. 

Fisher's Island

Next stop, after leaving Montauk Point on Long Island was the 11 mile crossing to Fishers Island. The only tricky part of the crossing is making it through The Race, where rip tides arise from the competing Atlantic Ocean and Long a Island Sound currents. A majestic stone light house,that looks like a small castle, was built in 1870 to guide ships through what can be a treacherous crossing.  Once to the other side, you enter Fisher Island's large protected harbour. 

We are somehow drawn to islands and frequently anchor nearby, going ashore to explore.  These microcosms each have an immediately observable persona. At nine miles by four, Fisher Island is close to ten times the size of Useppa. About 230 live here year round, with the population swelling to 2,000 during the summer season. Daily ferries from Groton, and other close by Connecticut towns, bring workers and supplies the 2-5 miles from the coastline. Unlike Useppa, there are cars, trucks, a post office and about 6 shops in the village. But don't forget to bring milk, bread or eggs or you'll be waiting for a mainland delivery the following day. Ice cream, however, is no problem with Topper's being a must stop in the village. Several outlying boutiques and galleries are open, generally on the weekend from 10:00-12:00, so plan your time carefully. 

                        

Homes are traditionally cedar shingle. They range in size from truly modest to palatial, in a New England sort of way. Let's just say its a stretch to think of 5-bedrooms in 4,500 sq. feet as a "cottage", even if it is cedar shingle. Folks are very friendly with bike riding and sailing as obviously popular activities, although the island also boasts one of America's 100 best golf courses.  License plates from Connecticut and New York reflect a debate that raged for years as to which state F.I. belonged to. New York won, although a call here from New York is still considered long distance! 

The first European landed here and named the island Visher's Island in 1614. By 1640 sheep were being raised and it's history began. Clearing  of stone to create walls and using local wood for building leveraged the island's natural beauty.  But hurricanes and storm surges have several times conspired to essentially denude the island, most recently in 1950. Residence clearly treasure the uniqueness of the island and have helped to restore it back to its verdant natural state. One doesn't get the sense that there is much real estate churn, but that shouldn't discourage you from boarding a Connecticut ferry and coming for a days outing. You would certainly feel most welcome. 

Cruising the East End

When bringing Blue Chip north, we usually race past everything north of New York harbor in our hurry to get back to a Boston.  This year, we had crew interested in going to Long Island, so we thought, why not? Now we're wondering why we don't spend more time on the east end of Long Island? 

Sag Harbor was our first stop. Tucked into a wide, well protected harbor on the northern edge of Long Island's southern tip, Sag was an important waling site in the early years. In the 1900's it was the Bohemian Hampton, overlooked by the development that overtook most of the east end. Homes are generally modest and families abound, making it more laid back than many of the other towns. But the village is filled with well curated shops, excellent restaurants and several live theaters.  Don't miss Bagel Bouy - serving some of the most amazing bagel and lox we've had in a long time. 

The American Hotel is an institution, boasting guests who are arts royalty. With only a handful of rooms, it is one of the hottest tickets anywhere in the Hamptons. We joined old and new friends for a fantastic dinner, then walked back to BlueChip.  

Three Mile Harbor was our next stop. We anchored out to a quiet sunset and watched as a full moon rose over the horizon. 

Between Steve and I, we've lived on Long Island for nearly 5 decades. Watching the Hamptons develope, we had bemoaned the disappearance of it's many farms and fishing villages. After not spending time here for the last decade, it's easy to loose perspective on the uniqueness of this place. Small villages sprinkle the landscape. Inlets, harbors and small islands provide numerous boating options. With so many family and friends living close by, we're wondering why we stayed away so long?  

Boston weekend!

We had a truly super and relaxing Fourth of July weekend. Hurricane Arthur had us starting early, but the best, besides a Red Sox win (we're overlooking the loss), was having family visit. Tim came and immediately dug into a renovation project. Jen brought her friend Chris to share her discoveries from her last visit, although Chris had done some of his own research, so there was plenty to choose from. 

Captain Steve took us all out for a Sunday luncheon harbour cruise on Blue Chip. Immediate relaxation and the hope they'll come back to visit Cal and us soon. 

Arthur delivers Independence Day a day early!

Like much of the east coast, Boston has been eyeing Arthur's path up the east coast. Wednesday evening, the city announced that the renowned July 4th Boston Pops & fireworks were now rescheduled for July 3rd.  The city scrambled and there were far less than 500,000 attendees, but all of the Kaufman's guests made it to our deck. The fireworks launched on the river, just in front of our house were terrific!

The Beach Boys squeezed in a performance, but the Pops never got to the 1812 Overture. Suddenly, 20 minutes early, the sky exploded with light!

Within 10 minutes of the fireworks ending, we could feel a few random drops and then the sky let go with an absolute downpour. Let's talk about perfect timing! 

Today - July 4th - we're relaxing, enjoying nephews and nieces who came by for the weekend and, as the rain pours outside, thankful that the weather guys got it right!  Happy Fourth!!

Thirasia - 1mile and 100 years

Everyday from where we stayed, we could see a small inhabited island with a tiny, white, hilltop village, that seemed accessible only by a very steep winding path. We couldn't resist the adventure. 

Thirasia is a 3-1/2 square mile island - huge by Useppa standards. In 236BC, the land bridge connecting it to Santorini was destroyed. Just a mile across the Aegean Sea, it couldn't be more different than the hustle of its much larger sister island.

Although swimming was briefly considered, we found a local "ferry" that goes back and forth twice a day. Don't let those steamer-type icons fool you. The ship was considerably smaller than Blue Chip, and once loaded with food and supplies for the island, there wasn't much room for its dozen passengers. The main working port of Riva had a handful of small buildings, with colorful bobbing boats that looked child sized. The "bus" we had read about that would take us up to the capital "city" of Manolis was an old flat bed with a bench seat in back which we were welcome to share with groceries. Virtually no English is spoken on Thirasia, but our elderly driver was able to communicate that the fare was 3-euros each. At three times the ferry crossing, the price seemed a bit dear, but the opportunity to avoid a long walk in the blazing sun made it a bargain. We were his only passengers. 

Being on unspoilt Therasia is absolutely stepping back in time. With few paved roads, there are probably more donkeys than motorbikes or cars. The island hosts 21 churches, all dedicated to saints protecting sailors, including Saint Irena from which Santorini gets it's name. "Villages" can be so small, that you might not realize when you've passed through one. "Stores" need no signs because there are few and the islanders know where they are, although we only spotted one. 

 

Minolas, the stretch of white buildings we could see on the rim of the caldera, is navigated via a series of steep cobblestone paths and steps that connect traditional white homes with bright trim in blue or gold. A further mile up a steep hill brings you past the island's single 6 room  lodging-house to one of the larger church buildings and the local cemetery. The minute family crypts are topped with what looks like miniature blue and white churches and enhanced with inlaid photos that bring you back through the decades. 

The one bit of English we did see was a sign pointing to the steps that bring you to Korfos, the island's second port. A cold drink at the Panorama restaurant out priced Starbucks, but it was REALLY needed before our descent. A string of donkeys looked as if they were headed down at 45-degrees. But the cobblestone steps looked more like a series of 270 platforms, so how bad could it be? Let's just say we now understand why virtually everyone, including residents, that get off the ferry at Korfos take donkeys to get up the hill. 

A series of tavernas and every variety of small boat makes up Korfos, which is a popular stopping point for people wanting a break from the hustle of Santorini. The ferry driver finishes his lunch and we re-board to return to Amoudi, the small port near Oia on the western tip of Santorini. We're happy to be back home, but wouldn't have missed Thirasia for the world. It's the picture of Greece, residing in your minds eye, that you never thought you would find. And, if your not up for an adventure, you would have never found it. 

Akrotiri - the Minoans and a Greek Island Top 10 Ancient Site

We learned that the prehistoric settlement of Akrotiri, located on the southern end of the island, was continuously inhabited from the middle of the Neolithic Age (5th millennium BC) through the Early Bronze Age (3rd millennium BC). With two sandy beaches on either side providing safe refuge for vessels and crucial proximity to Crete and Cyprus, Akritori became an ever more important regional location for trade.  Consequently the city was rebuilt several times in spite of multiple earthquakes.  The city reimerges post-earthquake in the Middle Bronze Age (2100-1600BC), creating ever more palatial multi story buildings, decorated in both the red and black lava stone and limestone of the area.  

The final rebuilding was in the Late Bronze Age, but a sudden eruption of the volcano at the beginning of the 16th century, buried the city under a thick mantle of pumice and volcanic ash, preserving evidence of the Minoan civilization lifestyle for posterity. This volcanic eruption was so huge that it created a tsunami reaching the shores of Minoan Crete, 70 miles away and, many believe, was the main contributor to the rapid decline of the highly advanced civilization. 

 The partial excavation of Ancient Akrateri is completely covered by a modern shelter that disappears into the landscape. This nearly three acre site includes 32 buildings, sewage system, in-home sanitation facilities, and hot-cold running water, all of which speak to a highly evolved cosmopolitan city. 

The sophisticated decoration and brighlt colored artifacts are typical of the Minoan civilization, who were the inhabitants during this area's protracted Bronze Age. The exquisite wooden furniture, rich household goods, including many imported items, speak to the prosperity and bourgeois mentality of its populace.

Many of the items from this extensive time period, along with the more recent artifacts and mural paintings, have been moved to the Museum of Prehistoric Thera (ancient name for Santorini) located in Fira. The colors are bright, rich and diverse. The decorative images include intricately detailed dress, birds (swallows), plants, fish and dolphins, all typical of the area. The inclusion of plants and animals, such as blue monkeys, not inherent to this part of the world, speaks to Akrateri's worldliness as a result of their important role in trade. 

The quality of the excavation and documentation rivals what we saw in Ephesus, so if your an ancient-city-junky, Akrateri is just one more reason to add Santorini to your list. 

Meandering through Santorini

We woke up to WARM weather and an unusual amount of activity in the quiet church we share a wall with on this hilltop in Imerovigli. Apparently it was carpet washing day. All that you see here were hand scrubbed by two very industrious women. I wanted to ask if they'd consider Boston, but was told permits would be involved. Much too complicated for this vacation oriented mind. 

So off we went for a day of exploring, grateful that our friends had ignored our recommendation that a car wasn't necessary. 

Ancient Thira is near the southern coast of the island, away from the large natural harbour Santorini is known for.  Inhabited from the 9th century BC - 726 AD, the city is perched 1,181-feet above sea level in the Mesavouno Mountains. We arrived via a sharp narrow stone switchback road, although others, god bless them hike up.  Large for its time at 2,624-feet by 13-feet, it was built completely of local limestone. For those with a more spiritual bent, there are pilgrimage connected paths down to Pirgos or Perissa.  Note Craig - the site closes at 2:30, so if your inclined to make the hike, leave LOTS of time. 

Kamira Beach stretches for what looks like miles, looking slightly northeast from Thira. The beach is made of well worn black lava pebbles, which help to heat the water, making it one of the most popular beaches on the island. Thatched umbrellas, lounges, a pedestrian road filled with restaurants and car-easy access doesn't hurt either. We ate at Prince and would go back there in a second.

Wineries are abundant, offering everything from guided tours to animation filled museums. We went the more traditional route. Canava Rousos was established in the mid-1800's and is considered to be the oldest on Santorini. There are only about 4 types of grapes grown on the island, but the variety of flavors range from light white minerals, to flavorful rose, a very lovely drinkable red and then a range of ever increasing sweet varieties. The round nest like way of growing the vines is specific to the island, protecting the vines from the wind and assisting irrigation by more readily capturing morning mist and allowing more contact with the ground. 

We were tempted by Canava Rousos restaurant, that was unfortunately closed for lunch. However, they were delightful hosts and the setting charming. Joe and Karen are the true wine drinkers among us and have other vineyards they'd recommend. We are perfectly willing to tag along. 

Finally back home to Estelle Villa, our hilltop home in Imerovigli.  We relax, change, appreciate the cooling temperatures and are off to nearby Oia, high above the inner coast on the northern tip, for a terrific dinner at Ambrosia. Although filled with vacationers, like ourselves, this pedestrian only town is a delight, so why not?

Santorini - wonderful in so many ways

Did we arrive here two days ago, or has it been more than a week? This small Cyclades island, only 120 miles from Greece's mainland, is proving to be the perfect balance of tranquility yet brimming activity, barren yet color filled.

With our friends Karen and Joe, we are staying in a small villa on one of the island's highest points, overlooking the caldera, or volcanic crater, that Santorini is famous for.  The eruption 3,600 years ago separated a then larger island, into Santorini and several much smaller, mostly uninhabited islands. The crater sank, creating a pool over 400m deep, thus allowing all but the largest boats safe anchorage. 

You'd never know that the most recent eruption in 1956 demolished over half of the buildings here.  Agriculture, wine making and tourism thrive. Ancient ruins and modern homes both make use of the unique black, red and white volcanic stone, although much of this is plastered over in the iconoclastic white associated with the Greek islands. Blue domed churches along with white and pastel colored homes cling to the hillsides and slope down to the sea.

There is little rainfall and virtually no irrigation. Vegetables and grapes are grown close to the ground, generally watered by morning mist and fog, resulting in compact, sweet produce.  Tomatoes, olives, cherries, eggplants, grapes an pistachios abound. Fish both fresh and smoked is plentiful.  Tender smoked white eggplant dip, small heirloom like tomatoes and innumerable dishes unique to this region make choosing what to eat both the easiest and most challenging parts of the day. Perfect!

Bicycling in London? Did anyone see Steve?

As many of you know, over the last few years, the Kaufmans have taken up bicycle riding as part of their vacation adventures. Karen wondered why Regent Street appeared to be closed and then suddenly bike riders appeared to come from nowhere. 

Recently returned from a week of hard work at the Golden Door, it begs the question, where was Mr Steve? Can you pick him out of the crowd?

The real deal: 

The London naked bike ride is a chance for all London cyclists to get out on their bikes and prove to the world that the bike is a great alternative mode of transport for travelling in the city. Partially a demonstration against oil dependency and the need to protect the environment and also a celebration of the freedom of cycling and the human body, the London event is part of the World Naked Bike Ride, which sees thousands of naked cyclists riding all over the world.

This is year number two for the UK. The 2014 London naked bike ride will go down in history as the largest ever naked protest in Britain if the total number of naked cyclists exceeds the estimated 1,000 participants. Hey, Ripley's  is just around the corner from Regent St, so why not?!