Meandering through Santorini

We woke up to WARM weather and an unusual amount of activity in the quiet church we share a wall with on this hilltop in Imerovigli. Apparently it was carpet washing day. All that you see here were hand scrubbed by two very industrious women. I wanted to ask if they'd consider Boston, but was told permits would be involved. Much too complicated for this vacation oriented mind. 

So off we went for a day of exploring, grateful that our friends had ignored our recommendation that a car wasn't necessary. 

Ancient Thira is near the southern coast of the island, away from the large natural harbour Santorini is known for.  Inhabited from the 9th century BC - 726 AD, the city is perched 1,181-feet above sea level in the Mesavouno Mountains. We arrived via a sharp narrow stone switchback road, although others, god bless them hike up.  Large for its time at 2,624-feet by 13-feet, it was built completely of local limestone. For those with a more spiritual bent, there are pilgrimage connected paths down to Pirgos or Perissa.  Note Craig - the site closes at 2:30, so if your inclined to make the hike, leave LOTS of time. 

Kamira Beach stretches for what looks like miles, looking slightly northeast from Thira. The beach is made of well worn black lava pebbles, which help to heat the water, making it one of the most popular beaches on the island. Thatched umbrellas, lounges, a pedestrian road filled with restaurants and car-easy access doesn't hurt either. We ate at Prince and would go back there in a second.

Wineries are abundant, offering everything from guided tours to animation filled museums. We went the more traditional route. Canava Rousos was established in the mid-1800's and is considered to be the oldest on Santorini. There are only about 4 types of grapes grown on the island, but the variety of flavors range from light white minerals, to flavorful rose, a very lovely drinkable red and then a range of ever increasing sweet varieties. The round nest like way of growing the vines is specific to the island, protecting the vines from the wind and assisting irrigation by more readily capturing morning mist and allowing more contact with the ground. 

We were tempted by Canava Rousos restaurant, that was unfortunately closed for lunch. However, they were delightful hosts and the setting charming. Joe and Karen are the true wine drinkers among us and have other vineyards they'd recommend. We are perfectly willing to tag along. 

Finally back home to Estelle Villa, our hilltop home in Imerovigli.  We relax, change, appreciate the cooling temperatures and are off to nearby Oia, high above the inner coast on the northern tip, for a terrific dinner at Ambrosia. Although filled with vacationers, like ourselves, this pedestrian only town is a delight, so why not?

Santorini - wonderful in so many ways

Did we arrive here two days ago, or has it been more than a week? This small Cyclades island, only 120 miles from Greece's mainland, is proving to be the perfect balance of tranquility yet brimming activity, barren yet color filled.

With our friends Karen and Joe, we are staying in a small villa on one of the island's highest points, overlooking the caldera, or volcanic crater, that Santorini is famous for.  The eruption 3,600 years ago separated a then larger island, into Santorini and several much smaller, mostly uninhabited islands. The crater sank, creating a pool over 400m deep, thus allowing all but the largest boats safe anchorage. 

You'd never know that the most recent eruption in 1956 demolished over half of the buildings here.  Agriculture, wine making and tourism thrive. Ancient ruins and modern homes both make use of the unique black, red and white volcanic stone, although much of this is plastered over in the iconoclastic white associated with the Greek islands. Blue domed churches along with white and pastel colored homes cling to the hillsides and slope down to the sea.

There is little rainfall and virtually no irrigation. Vegetables and grapes are grown close to the ground, generally watered by morning mist and fog, resulting in compact, sweet produce.  Tomatoes, olives, cherries, eggplants, grapes an pistachios abound. Fish both fresh and smoked is plentiful.  Tender smoked white eggplant dip, small heirloom like tomatoes and innumerable dishes unique to this region make choosing what to eat both the easiest and most challenging parts of the day. Perfect!

Bicycling in London? Did anyone see Steve?

As many of you know, over the last few years, the Kaufmans have taken up bicycle riding as part of their vacation adventures. Karen wondered why Regent Street appeared to be closed and then suddenly bike riders appeared to come from nowhere. 

Recently returned from a week of hard work at the Golden Door, it begs the question, where was Mr Steve? Can you pick him out of the crowd?

The real deal: 

The London naked bike ride is a chance for all London cyclists to get out on their bikes and prove to the world that the bike is a great alternative mode of transport for travelling in the city. Partially a demonstration against oil dependency and the need to protect the environment and also a celebration of the freedom of cycling and the human body, the London event is part of the World Naked Bike Ride, which sees thousands of naked cyclists riding all over the world.

This is year number two for the UK. The 2014 London naked bike ride will go down in history as the largest ever naked protest in Britain if the total number of naked cyclists exceeds the estimated 1,000 participants. Hey, Ripley's  is just around the corner from Regent St, so why not?! 

A country outing

Jane and Richard Ganes are dear British friends from Useppa. They have been so busy building a New England style home about 60 miles outside of London, that we missed seeing them in Florida. 

We met at Tunbridge Wells, a charming old spa town, where one came to take the waters. For us, it was for catching up and wonderful lunch. At less than an hours train ride from London, in west Kent, it acts as the main town for eating and shopping when one wants to avoid the hastle of the city. 

It may also be an option when Karen craves the Cotswolds and Steve has London in mind. We both reccomend it! 

London Recap

Many meals were shared with friends, giving us the chance to catch up. There was also a meal at Palomar, a newly opened Israeli chef owned boutique restaurant we learned about in Jerusalem. It's right in the theatre district and worth a visit.

And yes - there were other activities that didn't involve food. 

Theatre both high & low brow:

"The Book of Mormon" vs "1984". 

Guess who picked which one? Both were terrific. 

Retail therapy:

Liberty, besides having timeless fabrics, continues to be a highly curated shop, that never fails to delight. 

Fortnum & Masson - it's been years - but oh what a treat!

Museums:

There are so many to choose from, but summer means two special exhibits at the Royal Academy. The Student Show may ask more quations than it answers. The Summer Exhibition you could return to again and again. With pieces in every medium, and most for sale, there are bargains to be had and something for everyone. 

The Narional Portrait Gallery's exhibit, Great War Portraits, traced WWI from before Franz Ferdinand's 1914 assasination, through the post war era when people insisted on images that more accurately portrayed what they saw from their veterans. A most memorable exhibit!  

London without rain gear ? Really!

Summer visits to London run 50:50 weather wise.  Cold and rainy or gloiously warm and bright blue skies. Luck is on our side, as rain gear remains in our bags. 

Dukes, on St James, oozes townhouse charm and is within an easy walk to everything we've planned on the north shore of the Thames. The Royal Academy's annual Summer competition, a Liberty stop & maybe ear candling in Chinatown.

With the World Cup excitement, competing with the Queens birthday celebration weekend, traffic is at all but a standstill. At Tralfalgar Square, a giant blue rooster overlooks a wild Brazilian fete. The evening view of the Thames from Golden Jubilee bridge of the London Eye & Westminster is a reminder of how magical London can be.

Richmond VA

After a quick 6-laundry-load, bill-paying, check-on-the-fire/water-damage trip to Boston, we're back to Blue Chip. 

We stopped at Richmond, VA on our way to Norfolk, so Steve could do a short recognizance trip to prep for a future visit. It's been many years since either of us had been to this cozy waterside city. 

The brick buildings against bright blue skies tempted us to Richmond's historic Shockoe Slip neighborhood. Cobbled streets, antique shops, restaurants and green walkway along the St James river, that offers kayaking and rafting, makes this the area to visit. 

Take the 45 minute canal boat trip. At only $5, it's worth it at twice the price. The Kanawah Canal and it's locks were established in 1785, with the fervent support of George Washington. By 1840, tobacco, wheat & passengers filled the hundreds of boats that went between Richmond to Lynchburg. A turning basin, bascular bridge and locks - we love this stuff!  By the1880's, the railroad made the canal virtually obsolete, but the many waterside factories remained in place. (Note the Lucky Strike on the smokestack.) Today, the rows of tobacco factories are lofts. Iron railroad trestles soar overheard, creating the only "Triple Crossing" in the US. 

The flood wall was built to protect the city from the St James during hurricane rains. In 2004 the city found the wall's doors worked perfectly, but when the storm shifted  north, the water trapped 14 feet of water INSIDE the city. Talk about unintended consequences! 

The city is in a period of reemergence, so if you're  in the area, it's worth a stop. Always a southern artistic center, it hopes to become known as the city of murals. Certainly both 2 and 3-D of all variety can be seen in the  most unexpected locations. 

Stop at Max's for dinner or the Jefferson Hotel for its incredible lobby and amazing brunch. 

Jekyll Island - boating the ICW

After a few days back in Boston, we reunited with Blue Chip. This leg, with our friends Annie Lewis and Bob Garta, was from St Augustine to Charleston. Winding through the low country, this may be the most picturesque portion of our trip. 

St Augustine, Jacksonville, Amelia Island, Savannah, St Simon, Hilton Head and Charleston are known to most who appreciate this part of the world, but Jekyll Island, the smallest of Georgia's barrier islands, is the place  that we always look forward to. Located halfway between Jacksonville and Savannah, it's more easily accessible than you might think. 

The Jekyll Island Club's heyday was between 1886 and 1946. Fifety-three members bought shares and either stayed at the Inn or built highly individualized homes, many of which can still be seen there. 

Every January the club opened to accommodate some of the world's wealthiest. Members enjoyed biking, hunting, horseback riding, tennis and lovely beaches. The Great Depression and World War II, brought the era of the Club to an end. The State of Georgia bought the island in 1947. With only 35% of the islands land developed, it remains a magical place.   Nestled amid live oaks, it's oldest oak is 350 years old, 112 feet high and an impressive 7 feet and 3 inches in diameter. 

Come here for a memorable escape. 

Museums that tell a story - in a most impressive manner!

Israel has more museums per capita than any other country in the world. 

The Israel  Museum is the largest, with a collection of archeological art that is encyclopedic, with international exhibits throughout the ages, as well as incredible contemporary art and photography. We gained early entry for a private tour and could have easily returned for multiple visits. 

Those that most impressed were those that tell the story of Israel and it's people. 

We were privileged to meet with Dalia Rabin, the daughter of the late Prime Minister at the Israeli Museum Yitzhak Rabin Center. The museum she spearheaded on behalf of her father, is dedicated to telling the story of Israel in the context of what was happening internationally both culturally and historically. We traveled back in time and saw the world through a different lense. This is a current image of children lighting Yahrzeit candles, which are traditionally lit annually in memory of those who have died. This year thousands of children came home from school on National Hollocaust Memorial Day, with a candle embellished the name of someone who died in the Hollocaust.

Seeing how simply this Prime Minister and Nobel Peace Prize winning  man lived, throughout his life was nothing short of stunning.   YitzhahRabins assassination at a Peace Ralley in November of 1995, was a defining moment in Israel, much like we have experienced I the US.

The Holocaust History Museum was another incredible example of how to educate and engage people if all ages and backgrounds. There was no one in our group who didn't come away with new knowledge. 

The Museum looks over the country side and is a series of buildings, indoor and outdoor spaces. The pavilion honoring the one and a half million children that perished in the Hollocaust, may have been the most moving thing we experienced during our visit. 

 

The Kaufman's are museum goers. There are few museums in the world that can compare to the sophistication and skill evident in the museums we saw here. With dozens to choose from, treat yourself. 

Oh that weightless feeling - even after so much good food!

You can't help but giggle when, after wading out into the palest green warm water, you simply sit and float. Of course it's the Dead Sea, just 25 miles south of Jerusalem. Part of the Negev Desert and at 1,400 feet below sea level, it is the lowest point in the world. Here the atmosphere is so dense, that you can float almost endlessly and not worry about sunburn. It's richer oxygen levels are reported to bring a sense of well being. Note however, that swimming is NOT allowed, to discourage water, with its 40% mineral content,  from getting into your eyes. You also might want to avoid shaving or going in with any scratches. Yowee!

Divided by a low levee between the larger northern portion, controlled by Jordan and the south, controlled by Israel, there is a high degree of cooperation for this sea, which is receding at a rate of 3 feet per year. Nothing actually "lives" in these waters, put the richness of  magneium, potassium, salt and silica makes mining minerals so valuable, that great attention is given to attempting to maintain its unique ecosystem. 

We simply enjoyed getting a day pass at one of the many hotels, enjoying the waters and then cooling off in the pool and therapeutic spas. Mineral rich mud is available for smearing and baking, which encourages many to come here for various cures. We were happy with a few simple hours of weightless relaxation.