The Images that Will Stay With You

Phnom Penh doesn't reflect a complete picture of Cambodia, but the juxtaposition of the traditional and the signs of a hoped for future that you will find throughout the country. There are many who say Cambodia is reminiscent of China 30 years ago. Their is tremendous ambition among a disproportionally young, hard working populous who are ready for change but who also unabashedly embrace their heritage. 

                                 

Buddhism arrived here with King Ashoka in he 3rd century BC and its practice still dominates life here. Homes and businesses often have a prayer house at their entrance. Stupas and temples can be found around every few corners in Phnom Phen as well as the countryside.

                                             

Wat Botum has been the city's spiritual gathering place since the 15th century and is located just next to the Royal Palace, whose complex is also the home of the magnificent Silver Pagoda - pictured here. 

                                  

With the Budhist University, several monestaries and The Ministry of Cult and Religion all within a few blocks, it can often feel as if monks make up 20-percent or more of the cities midtown population. The juxtaposition of these important religious sites to the Palace underscores their importance to the fabric of Cambodian culture. 

                                 

Cambodia's King is nominated among members of the royal family and elected for life as head of state by a Royal Council.  The current King Nordum Sihamoni was Cambodia's cultural embassador to Europe and a classical dance instructor, who was corronated on October 14, 2004, after his beloved elderly father Nordom Sihanouk abdicated. (Hey, everyone deserves to retire, even if you are the king!) The are in front of the palace is blocked off as a walking street with a grassy park area between it and the Tomle Sap river,  making it a popular gathering spot in the evening for families, young people and adventurous tourists. 

                         

France's impact on architecture and food during their 100 year stay, is reminiscent of Hanoi. Several ochre colored Coonial buildings remain, such as the main post office. The culinary influence can be seen as it overlays the southeast Asian cuisines here and the number of fine French restaurants. 

Cambodia has a rich history. For centuries they were a regional powerhouse, impacted by the neighbors they conquered. Buddhism has long exerted a strong influence, yet there's Hinduism mixed in and coexistance with other faiths. Although centuries ago ruling kings warred with each other, the king now reflects a time of stability. All these elements combines to create something that may reflect what is uniquely Cambodia. 

Cambodia - a Past Not to be Forgotten

Today's Cambodia is so delightful that, one nearly forgets it's very sobering past. The role the U.S. played in supporting a military coup and then bombing of eastern Cambodia, killing 150-thousand peasants in an attempt to block North Vietnamese, directly led to the rise of Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge (Red Cambodians). Subsequenlty 2-million, out of a total of population of 7 died in less than four years.   What's equally unimaginable is this country's ability to look past these events and move on to a life of coexistence. 

Almost immediately upon Pol Pot's rise to power on April 17, 1975,  thousands of people were marched from the cities. Deaths were caused by murder, starvation or disease resulting from Khmer Rouge activity. The victim's crime was presumed attachment to the old regime, having an education, being a monk, simply wearing glasses - considered a sign of intellect -  or being a family member to someone in these categories and thus thought to be "untrainable" for this radical form of agrarian based Marxist communism. Ironically Pol Pot and  his partner, Ieng Sary, the instigators desiring to create this utopian socity among Cambodia's peasants, were themselves extremely well travelled and educated, including qualifying for college  scholarships  in Paris. But the deaths of the intelligencia, and fear created by extensive torture and killing as a means to expedite change, ultimately led to rapid failure, but not before legendary torture and deaths of millions.

                          

A 30 minute drive outside of Phnom Penh brings you to the Killing Fields at Choeung  Ek. The tall memorial houses 15 floors of human bones, grouped by type, all recovered from shallow graves from this area where thousands of deaths occurred. This tree, which today is adorned with string woven bracelets traditionally given as a sign of protection, was the site where babies were unceremoniously killed. The grounds themselves are lovely, with a pond in the center and surrounded by bucolic farmland. The explanatory signs and well done self guided tour remind you of how easily, and quickly, life can dramatically and permanently change.

                      

Nearby, Toul Sleng - S21 Genocide Museum is the preserved memorial to the 20-thousands who were detained and tortured here during Pol Pots reign. Originally a high school, classrooms were divided into individual shower-stall sized cells. Inmate details were recorded with great precision and photographed. Thousands of these photos are displayed as further testament to their time here. Other rooms tell the stories of the guards and leaders of the revolution.There are only 14 known survivors, a few of whom come to Toul Sleng to lead tours and tell their story

 Pol Pot was deposed on January 7, 1979, with the help of the Vitnamese, and moved to Thailand.   Virtually all those who  were instrumental in the punishment and killing of thousands, were spared and allowed to move to other countries in South America and the Western World. Ironically, the UN recognized the Khmer Rouge as the rightful government of Cambodia from 1979-1997. Even though a coalition government was eventually formed, the Khmer Rouge gurillas, with Pol Pots's continued influence, were active for decades and international funds were funneled through their party. 

Today Cambodia finds itself at peace. When asked about the past and how they feel about the many who live among them who were part of the Khmer Rouge, people shrug. They have a constitutional monarchy where king is adored and the Prime Minister is elected in an essentially one party system dominated by the Cambodian People's Party.  People openly practice religion, primarily Budhism. The middle class is rising.  So even though they acknowledge corruption is rampant (160 out of the 177 most corrupt nations in the world), life is better than nearly anyone can remember. 

Cambodian's either lived through or know about this fairly recent time when this part of the world seemed to be going crazy and no one came to help. Unfortunately it is a universal story that seems doomed to repeat itself. 

A day with Steve - wandering Phnom Penh

Steve is widely travelled.  However, he's a big picture guy. Nuance would not be his middle name. So, understandably, there are only so many temples and markets one can expect to hold his attention. 

We stopped at the very elegant Raffles, which immediately transports you back to Colonial days.  Jackie O stopped here in 1967, where she made the pink tinged Femme Fatale cocktail at the Elephant Bar famous.  Her lipstick stained glass and a number of wonderful photos memorialize the visit. 

                             

   

Back to the center of town, Steve rested while the rest of us traipsed through yet another market. As his reward for a long HOT day, and in preparation for the evening event with his HBS students' clients, Steve got a "proper shave".

                            

The length and size of that recently sharpened blade made the rest of us cringe, but this is how the Cambodians do it - open air and street side.  Now Steve has both a Cambodian and a Cuban barber. Even with all the extras, it's a long way from Boston, so I don't think they are too worried on Newbury Street.

Watch out Starbucks!

Cambodians are coffee drinkers - all kinds of coffe drinks and strong!  Historically, they imported most of their beans from Vietnam, the 2nd largest coffee grower in the world. However, with the increase of coffee bars, and a desire to cut out the Vietnamese middle man, growing coffee in the Cambodian highlands is on the rise.  

                        

 Brown is one of several high end chains in Phnom Penh. With a variety of interesting interiors, an amazing selection of hot and cold foods and shockingly fast internet speed, it can easily become your home away from home - even if it does take nearly 24 hours to get here. 

                                       

If your less concerned about ambiance and looking for a uniquely Cambodian experience, visit the congenial and unassuming Mr. Bounairth for the best iced coffee in Phnom Penh. And it really is. Whether laced with a healthy helping of Best Cow condensed milk, or taken straight, searching out this unassuming stall in the food court of the Toul Tumpuong (Russian Market) is absolutely worth the journey.

These little things make traveling memorable, providing tangible comparisons to what we know. It's what stays with you after so many other memories fade. 

Crashing the Party on Silk Island

From the east side of the city, there's constant activity on the Tonle Sap and Mekong River. Several days of a leisurely northern cruise would bring you to Tonle Sap Lake, along which you'd find nearby Siem Reap and the temples of Angkor. Much closer by are a number of small islands and a peninsula from which people often commute into the Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital.  If you want to do some exploring, there are numerous ferries laden with people and cars or captained wooden power boats for hire that depart from one of several small ports. 

                           

A short mile up the Tonle Sap,  you pass floating fishing villages. The fishermen and their families live on long thin boats with a single arched covering that can be easily hoisted off and set on stilts, or left on land, if there's need for full access to the deck. Netting attached to the arch, acts as closet and pantry as it secures family possessions. There's constant activity as fishing nets are mended, children hop off for a bath, wash is done and hung on land. Small motors are dropped as fisherman make their way to their section of the river. Colored bobbing bottles are reminiscent of the lobster and crab pots used in the US. 

Silk Island is a short one-hour boat ride up the Tonle Sap, yet light years away from Phnom Penh. Only a few miles long, the island is primarily agricultural, raising "small corn",  banana, morning glories and a bit of sugar cane on small family farms using a minimum of technology. Papaya, mango and the ever popular jackfruit trees appear everywhere. The majority of these crops are sold in the city. But handwoven silk is what  the island is best know for. These beautiful pieces are created on typical wooden floor looms that seem ubiquitous under the stilted homes along the mostly unpaved roads.  

       

We stumbled on a local wedding. Everyone is welcome so we stand, as inconspicuously as a couple of foreigners can, at the back of the tented area. We learned that the hired comedians are dramatically acting out feigned resistance to the traditional "hair cutting ceremony" as the wedding couple dressed in bright saffron look on. There's lots of laughter intermingled with solemn moments, to be followed by an evening of food being prepared at the outdoor kitchen and music. Maybe we could have joined the festivities, but there's more to explore in our tut tut. 

         

Further up the mostly unpaved road, we arrive at acres of palm covered huts along the river. Dozens of young people and families are gathering on this national holiday.  Independence Day, on January 7, commemorates the 1979 defeat of the Khmer Rouge, with the help of the Vietnamese. The water is delightful! The sand silky.  Large truck-tire inner tubes are used to float in the river by modestly clothed adults and often naked smiling children. People bring picnics, supplemented by the local fishing community and farmers supply of a wide selection of snacks. No one seems to mind our joining in this most welcome reprieve from the heat! 

Silk Island - a delightful sampling of how diverse life can be in Cambodia. You really must make the trip!

Cambodia - Food Reflects History

The food found in any country gives insight into both its soul and its history. Cambodia is no exception. Its cuisine is a delightful mix of Indian, Thai, Vietnamese with hints of Chinese and French overlaid with inherent Khmer. The result is a cuisine you can't quite put your finger on, with layers of flavors and something for everyone. In an attempt to get closer to its soul you read a little history and take a cooking class with Cambodia-Cooking-Class.com.

Your morning begins with a trip to the outdoor market. Aisle upon aisle with stalls for every fruit, vegetable, still-moving-fish, meat, herb and any spice you can think of  - and other items  far beyond the reaches of your imagination. Costco has nothing on the Phasar Kandal!

                            

Then you join 10 other curious foodies from all over the globe on an open air rooftop kitchen. You peel potatoe flour pancakes, shred taro, chop and pound with a wooden mortar and pestle until you think you can pound no more, yet more pounding is required. 

                               

You learn about a long list of flavorful plants and how to layer salt with sugar, chillies and clear fish sauce. Adjusting chilie heat isn't nearly as difficult as you think - if you just grasp the seeds in combination with salt and sugar equation. You form vegetable logs to stuff your spring rolls, but wait, there are rolling tricks too! And who knew 30 rolls could fit in one shallow oil filled wok, gently cooking for nearly 30 minutes. Did I mention there's no AC? 

                                   

Ah - and then there is the payoff.  Spring rolls, banana flower and shrimp salad, beef with long beans,  fish curry steamed in banana leaf cups that your group has made and finally mangoe toasted coconut topped with sticky rice drizzled with carmelized palm sugar and toasted sesame. Clearly this is NOT going to be a low calorie trip! But the layers of flavors keep you guessing and will more than make up for the inevitable loosening of one's belt.   

We can taste the history and begin to understand what might appear simple, yet is the deeply layered complexity of Cambodia. 

  

       

Balloon Fest - Bucket List

For decades I've dreamt of owning a hot air balloon. Having gone up every chance offered, from Arizona to Myanmar, it's always a thrill. 

Our wonderful friend's, the Stockers, live in Corrales, just on the edge of Albaquwrque. Every October the area hosts an international balloon festival. A perfect opportunity - a week of balloons night and day.

The fairgrounds host every unhealthy local food imaginable. Corn dogs anyone?  Pins, hats and paraphernalia galore. As night falls, the special "night glow" festival  sees emorphius shapes take form, rising to vertical positions and "glowing" as the propane heats air to complete the inflation. When completed - it's time for fireworks. 

The next morning it's coffee at 7 and there are the gentle roar of fans in the next field next door. Coffee in hand, we go to investigate. Dozens of balloons inflated there, joining hundreds more in the sky. 

Afterwards a drive to Cuba - the landlocked one in New Mexico. Retro signs, expansive landscapes - wonderfully typical southwest. 

And then there's old town Albaquwrque. Adobe buildings and individual artisans  surrounding the town square would remind you of Santa Fe 25 years ago. 

Add a Mariachi Band and a local Mexican  dance school - and you'll have a day that's unforgettable.  

A week around balloons only inflated my interest. 30 hours of flying time to be licensed - I could do that.  Easy! Now there's only the balloon, the basket, truck and chase team. Ok - one step at a time and maybe another visit next year.      

Re2pect

It's a little more than a week since Derek Jeeter made his last Fenway appearance as a Yankee. 

Number 2 has had a multi decade career with the Yankees, always playing the same position. No matter what you think of him, (remember we ARE Sox fans), you have to congratulate him on his professionalism and a scandal-less career. And EVERYONE at Fenway did. September 28 was Jeeter Day. Although about a third if the stadium had likely come from NYC, everyone stood, cheered and gave this player the Re2pect he deserved and few others have earned. 

Through the eyes of a Dane

Anders is one of Karen's most longtime friends. When he asked to come from Denmark to visit the US for the first time, naturally the answer was "of course", but how to decide what to do in less than two weeks? 

Landing in NYC, the whirlwind included Times Square, the Met, Guggenheim, Grand Central Station and the 9/11 Memorial. Then wandering along Battery Park to see the Statue of Liberty was about all we had time for before visiting Karen's mom and brother Chris.   (Touring NYC with Karen is a fast paced affair, guaranteed to cure jet lag!)

A sailor and educator  about life in the 1800's made stops in boat building Mystic Connecticut and whaling Nantucket mandatory. They didn't disappoint. 

Not to be missed - Sturbridge Village. It reminded them both of where they'd met in Denmark and the years Karen had spent at Lejre, working as an 1800's weaver while illustrating books for the center. 

And while in the neighborhood, why not try out the local "hipster" BBQ joint. Sorry, no open faced sandwiches and liverpostej here!

Finally, here in Boston and it's Steve's turn. So where might you guess we headed? After a visit to Harvard Museum's  glass flowers - it's off to Fenway. 

Remarkably, not only did our Danish friend learn the essential  rules under Steve's tutelage, he insisted on watching games on TV during the week. Steve felt validated!

Then we were off to Maine. Lighthouses, rugged coasts, lobsters, sunsets, warm

days and cool nights. You know the drill. There's nothing like it - particularly for a Dane with the sea in his DNA. 

Back in Boston, there's whale watching, Walden Pond, Concord,  the MFA, Freedom Trail, Italian delights from the north end  and just hanging out watching the boats sail the Charles. Oh, and a traditional diner for a dose of comfort food. With huge omlettes, home fries, people sitting at the counter with chatty waitresses, well this certainly isn't Denmark! 

It may not have been the most balanced view of the US, but it's a big country and you have to start somewhere. We're certain our Dane has thousands of images dancing in his head and may still be catching up on the rest he didn't get while here on his vacation. PS - the request has already come in to inquire about renting a sailboat in Maine for a month - one of these days!  

Napa Without Wine

Impossible! What would be the point?

Well there are those, believe it or not, who don't live for the new harvest and this year's wine rating. And, if your reading this, then you already know that includes Mr. Steve. Still, it's a beautiful corner of the world and we had the opportunity in late August to share it with a group of McKinsey friends. So we decided to investigate beyond the vineyards.  

First - get a convertible. You might have done that anyway - but taking the scenic route and spotting small signs is going to be key. 

Then the adventure is yours. We say go the gamut - from weird to wonderful. 

Confess - you didn't know that the workd's largest petrified forest was right here in Napa. Coastal redwoods fell like matchsticks in the direction of the lava flow from Mt St Helen a mere 7 miles away. Over several million years, water seeped through dust and ash. Cell by cell wood is transformed into solid silica, quartz and stone. Voila - petrified wood!

   

First discovered in 1870 by Charles "Petrified" Evans, the forest was visited by many. Robert Lewis Stevenson was among the frequent guests and has a tree named after him, which he wrote about in "Silverado Squatters."  Note the red trunked Manzanita trees - not petrified, but a colorful bonus. 

Next - the Old Faithful Geyser of California is a mystery of nature, which captivates the imagination AND has been written about in National Geographic. 

However, it only erupts about every 30 minutes, so bring a book and relax in the outdoor covered area. You might also investigate the "steam well." Built in the 1930's, it's 150 degree vapors boil eggs and can cook a pig. (Hey, that's what the sign says!)

The culinary delights and wonderful vistas are endless. We suggest the Culinary Institure of America, for the cooking store alone. Auberge's cliffside, outdoor deck's view is a perfect place for a midday break. Long Meadow Farmstand represents the Napa you dreamt of - and is owned, ongvwith the Ranch, by old friends. 

Bouchon Bakery is  the perfect stop to provision for your drive back to San Fran. You'll delight in whatever you find and be fortified while making notes about where you're going to stop next time your in the wine country.