Richmond VA

After a quick 6-laundry-load, bill-paying, check-on-the-fire/water-damage trip to Boston, we're back to Blue Chip. 

We stopped at Richmond, VA on our way to Norfolk, so Steve could do a short recognizance trip to prep for a future visit. It's been many years since either of us had been to this cozy waterside city. 

The brick buildings against bright blue skies tempted us to Richmond's historic Shockoe Slip neighborhood. Cobbled streets, antique shops, restaurants and green walkway along the St James river, that offers kayaking and rafting, makes this the area to visit. 

Take the 45 minute canal boat trip. At only $5, it's worth it at twice the price. The Kanawah Canal and it's locks were established in 1785, with the fervent support of George Washington. By 1840, tobacco, wheat & passengers filled the hundreds of boats that went between Richmond to Lynchburg. A turning basin, bascular bridge and locks - we love this stuff!  By the1880's, the railroad made the canal virtually obsolete, but the many waterside factories remained in place. (Note the Lucky Strike on the smokestack.) Today, the rows of tobacco factories are lofts. Iron railroad trestles soar overheard, creating the only "Triple Crossing" in the US. 

The flood wall was built to protect the city from the St James during hurricane rains. In 2004 the city found the wall's doors worked perfectly, but when the storm shifted  north, the water trapped 14 feet of water INSIDE the city. Talk about unintended consequences! 

The city is in a period of reemergence, so if you're  in the area, it's worth a stop. Always a southern artistic center, it hopes to become known as the city of murals. Certainly both 2 and 3-D of all variety can be seen in the  most unexpected locations. 

Stop at Max's for dinner or the Jefferson Hotel for its incredible lobby and amazing brunch. 

Jekyll Island - boating the ICW

After a few days back in Boston, we reunited with Blue Chip. This leg, with our friends Annie Lewis and Bob Garta, was from St Augustine to Charleston. Winding through the low country, this may be the most picturesque portion of our trip. 

St Augustine, Jacksonville, Amelia Island, Savannah, St Simon, Hilton Head and Charleston are known to most who appreciate this part of the world, but Jekyll Island, the smallest of Georgia's barrier islands, is the place  that we always look forward to. Located halfway between Jacksonville and Savannah, it's more easily accessible than you might think. 

The Jekyll Island Club's heyday was between 1886 and 1946. Fifety-three members bought shares and either stayed at the Inn or built highly individualized homes, many of which can still be seen there. 

Every January the club opened to accommodate some of the world's wealthiest. Members enjoyed biking, hunting, horseback riding, tennis and lovely beaches. The Great Depression and World War II, brought the era of the Club to an end. The State of Georgia bought the island in 1947. With only 35% of the islands land developed, it remains a magical place.   Nestled amid live oaks, it's oldest oak is 350 years old, 112 feet high and an impressive 7 feet and 3 inches in diameter. 

Come here for a memorable escape. 

Museums that tell a story - in a most impressive manner!

Israel has more museums per capita than any other country in the world. 

The Israel  Museum is the largest, with a collection of archeological art that is encyclopedic, with international exhibits throughout the ages, as well as incredible contemporary art and photography. We gained early entry for a private tour and could have easily returned for multiple visits. 

Those that most impressed were those that tell the story of Israel and it's people. 

We were privileged to meet with Dalia Rabin, the daughter of the late Prime Minister at the Israeli Museum Yitzhak Rabin Center. The museum she spearheaded on behalf of her father, is dedicated to telling the story of Israel in the context of what was happening internationally both culturally and historically. We traveled back in time and saw the world through a different lense. This is a current image of children lighting Yahrzeit candles, which are traditionally lit annually in memory of those who have died. This year thousands of children came home from school on National Hollocaust Memorial Day, with a candle embellished the name of someone who died in the Hollocaust.

Seeing how simply this Prime Minister and Nobel Peace Prize winning  man lived, throughout his life was nothing short of stunning.   YitzhahRabins assassination at a Peace Ralley in November of 1995, was a defining moment in Israel, much like we have experienced I the US.

The Holocaust History Museum was another incredible example of how to educate and engage people if all ages and backgrounds. There was no one in our group who didn't come away with new knowledge. 

The Museum looks over the country side and is a series of buildings, indoor and outdoor spaces. The pavilion honoring the one and a half million children that perished in the Hollocaust, may have been the most moving thing we experienced during our visit. 

 

The Kaufman's are museum goers. There are few museums in the world that can compare to the sophistication and skill evident in the museums we saw here. With dozens to choose from, treat yourself. 

Oh that weightless feeling - even after so much good food!

You can't help but giggle when, after wading out into the palest green warm water, you simply sit and float. Of course it's the Dead Sea, just 25 miles south of Jerusalem. Part of the Negev Desert and at 1,400 feet below sea level, it is the lowest point in the world. Here the atmosphere is so dense, that you can float almost endlessly and not worry about sunburn. It's richer oxygen levels are reported to bring a sense of well being. Note however, that swimming is NOT allowed, to discourage water, with its 40% mineral content,  from getting into your eyes. You also might want to avoid shaving or going in with any scratches. Yowee!

Divided by a low levee between the larger northern portion, controlled by Jordan and the south, controlled by Israel, there is a high degree of cooperation for this sea, which is receding at a rate of 3 feet per year. Nothing actually "lives" in these waters, put the richness of  magneium, potassium, salt and silica makes mining minerals so valuable, that great attention is given to attempting to maintain its unique ecosystem. 

We simply enjoyed getting a day pass at one of the many hotels, enjoying the waters and then cooling off in the pool and therapeutic spas. Mineral rich mud is available for smearing and baking, which encourages many to come here for various cures. We were happy with a few simple hours of weightless relaxation. 

Two wonderful educational models

Our hosts arranged for a variety of interactive immersion opportunities. Two middle school and high school education programs were particularly interesting.

English is required in Israel, beginning in middle school. Most children's early exposure is from TV and then from teachers who are native Hebrew speakers. Enter the MASA teaching fellows, native English speaking college graduates and considered superstars by their young students. They are engaged by the Jewish Agency to come to teach in Israel for up to two years in the public schools. We met several, including Fiona who had a distinctly Scotish accent, which her fellow teachers claim helps to round ourt the studnet's English ear. We'll buy that. With our 8 travel,companions, we played a round of Jeopardy with a small group of Rishon Lexion students and were duly impressed. 

Yemin Ord tackles a completely different set of challenges. It is a youth village north of Jeruslaem and one of Israel's most innovative educational institutions, specializing in integrating new immigrant youth into Israeli society. The mix of children is Russian, heavily Ethiopian and increasingly Syrian.  Others come from families who may have been here longer, but are troubled. Children are either referred or parents apply on behalf of their children. The students board here during the week and have the option to go home on weekends. They live in group homes and besides the general courses taken by their public school peers, tremendous focus is placed on helping youth to understand what it takes to excel in life. Topics like "networking, help newcomers understand that the difference between their cell phones and those of the teachers they look up to are the names and numbers one accumulates and how those people can help them get information and solve problems as they move through life. 

Eventually these children will join the 2-4 year required military and possibly compete to go to college. Getting them on a more level playing field with those that are born here, already have Hebrew as their first language, have extended family and share a common sense of time and work ethic is a challenge for these young people. What makes the program even more impactful is that graduates come back both to motivate current students or just for a brief period of retreat to recharge and get centered. And who doesn't need that from time to time?

These program reminded us of some of the more successful charter schools we hear of that give that extra hand to those who may need it most. Very interesting to see the Israeli take. 

Eilat to Jordan's Petra

While in the neighborhood, how could we resist the temptation to travel 190 miles south of Jerusalem, over the Negev desert, to Eilat?  This Israeli sun-drenched seaside resort town sports palm tree  protected pools, beaches, all types of watersports, restaurants, shops and a boardwalk. There's certainly something for everyone, from young families to retirees.

Legend has it that after Creation, the angels painted the earth and when they got tired, spilled their paints. The blue became the waters of Eliat and the other colors became its fish and coral.

In a sense, what's most stunning is Eilat's position relative to Aqaba, Jordan's largest port. Both are located directly across from each other at the top of the narrow, pointed Gulf of Eliat. The lights you see here on the right is Israel, the left Jordan and dead center a huge freighter waiting to unload.

Although this gulf eventually turns into the Red Sea, Eliat residents can easily point out Jordanian royals' yacht, vacation villas and, of course, there are the many large freighters just hundreds of yards off the beach. But here the atmosphere is purely festive. 

Petra - often considered the eight wonder of the world - the ancient "rose red city, half as old as time" was settled by the Nabataeans more than 2200 years ago. 

Begin by crossing  through passport control to Jordan, and drive two hours north of Eilat, you will pass both desert mountains and farmable land; Bedouin contemporary towns and tented villages. Finally you arrive at this ancient trade route, secreted among high cliffs. The main entrance to Petra is an impressive 1,200 yard long, deep narrow stunningly beautiful multi colored gorge with agricultural terraces, votive niches and monumental reliefs carved into the stone. Just when you think you've seen enough dazzling sights, you suddenly come upon the towering Al-Khazneh "treasury".

Remind you if Indiana Jones? You would be right. Some of the filming occurred right here at this UNESCO site. Its boulevards, temples, splendid toumbs and amphitheater make the steep hot treck completely worthwhile. 

Gradually Christianity replaced the old religion and the rise of sea trade began to precipitate Petra's decline. The Muslims took over in 633, the Crusaders arrived in 1179, but after their defeat, the city sank into oblivion, known only to the Bedouin, until rediscovered by a Swiss explorer in 1812. And maybe by you - an intrepid traveler. 

Back after entirely too long

Late Sunday, we arrived, just in time to join our Israeli friends,  the Adlers, and 5 others who took them up on the invitation to see Israel  through their eyes. We will travel to 5 places in 10 days, with special tours and speakers and not so much time to sleep. 

This view from our window  is of Tel Aviv's Mediterranean coast. This is NOT the city of Karen's visit 25 years ago, but since then the city has more than quadrupled in size. 

Today, Monday, has been Holocaust Remembrance Day. A country wide minute of silence was observed. This panel was developed by a local middle school we visited. 

Today there are very few Holocaust survivors, and the majority of today's Israeli families did not come as  a direct result of the Holocaust, but all people here know that it was a time which came closer than any other to wiping out the Jewish population. And now, 75 years later, it is first time there are more Jewish people living since before the Holocaust. 

With a country that is 70% Jewish and huge divides between those that consider themselves Orthodox, Practicing and Secular, it will be an interesting week of teasing out the domestic aspects of the Israeli story. However, one thing is clear - there is a strong  sense of pride and optimism  across all generations which is contagious.

The randomness of fate

On Wednesday this week, we were in Florida,  in the company of grandchildren on school break, when calls from Boston began to arrive about a 9-alarm fire on our street. High winds and an explosion made it difficult to get the flames under control. 298 Beacon Street was completely lost and the one to its right, partly destroyed. Even more devastating was that two local firemen lost their lives. 

This view is from the back of the buildings on the day of the fire. Our building is a mere two doors down. We share a wall with 304 Beacon St, whose residents will not be able to return for quite sometime, due to serious smoke and water damage and, for now, no electricity. The night of the fire, there was 3-inches of water on the ground floor of our building. The water is since gone, but the young family with 6-month old twin girls, will have to move out while the floors of their bedrooms are restored. Common area carpets, floors and wallboards are being torn out and an elevator short circuit repaired. The windows were open today, despite the still cold temperature, to mitigate the strong smell of smoke, but in the scheme of things, we feel extremely fortunate. Our Boston neighbors warn that we will return to a devastating and all too sobering site, which our community will be living with for quite some time. 

We thank our family and friends around the globe who have reached out in an effort to check on us. It is unfortunate that it takes disaster to remind us of how random fate can be and how truly fortunate we are. 

If music be the food of love - play on!

We don't get to New York City nearly enough, but there's always the holiday visit to look forward to. This year it came a bit early, but it was marvelous. Dinner with Mom and Chris and a visit with Aunts Helen and Ronnie. A visit to a magnificent Armory show. Lunch with girlfriends and a Parisian escape at L'Absinthe.

Our visits with very long time friends is always something to look forward to. The annual dinner with Steve's men's group of nearly 30 years is something we look forward to all year long. This year's visit brought us together from New York, Connecticut, Boston and California. We shared updates on children and compared stories on grandchildren. And then brunch the next day with Steve's Harvard Business School roommates - the Baums. We are blessed!

However, the most memorable of this season's visit happened on a stage. The Twelfe Night was easily one of the most wonderful of any Shakespeare productions I've ever experienced - and this production IS to experience and not simply to see.  Originally performed at London's Globe Theatre, it is done in true Shakesperean style.  All parts are played by male actors, with original instruments and unique bleacher  seats on stage. Words spoken with heart, humor and a touch of baudiness had us all fully engaged with rapt attention, laughter and applause. So get ye to a nunnery - oh I mean - a ticket office before it leaves this February. King Richard the III, is being performed by the same troupe. Ah, maybe there is another visit to New York before February?

And so it ends - 1st time in 85 years & 3rd time in a decade

The Red Sox became MLB World Champions on Wedensday night. 87% of all Boston televisions were watching the game and pretty much everyone else was there at Fenway. But, not to worry if you missed it, because this story is surely a movie in the making. 

This team ended their last season with the unenviable record of WORST in MLB baseballl. And Boston is one tough, unforgiving, unrelenting sports town. You blow it and we'll let you know it!  But if you pull together and give it your all, we'll stick by your side and travel coast to coast to support you. 

The 2013 team did just that. There's been endless talk about their chemistry, beards that haven't been shaved since Spring training, talent and guys just having fun!  The pay off - Boston fans celebrate the MLB World Champion win with their Sox here at Fenway for the first time in 85 years. How long ago is that? World War I  hadn't ended and 23-year old Babe Ruth had not yet left his curse on the Sox for trading him to NY. 

All of Boston is bleary eyed and smiling.  And after the kids come down from today's Halloween sugar high, their teachers just might be able to get them to  focus again on the classroom. Next, it's the Saturday parade, with Duck Boats driving through th city before floating in the Charles River and hosted by our 20-year in office Mayor Manino, whose retring later this year. Hey, we take the long view here! 

It's been a tough year in Boston. The Red Sox went above and beyond to make it brighter in so many ways. MLB World Champions? Yeah, we'll gladly take it and applaud every last one of the guys on the team!