Showing posts with label Mediterranean. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mediterranean. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 12, 2016

Cap d'Antibes

Further east, and a bit north, along the Mediteranean Coast, you come to Cap d'Antibes. Located between Niece and Canne, it's known for its tranquility with many fewer hotels and short thin strips of beach. 
          
Hotel du Cap sits high on a hill, lined with gardens, cypress and palm trees, with sweeping views down to the the sea. The first canopy to the right is our room. 



Although the rooms above have more spectacular views, we prefer the outside terrace, particularly for a morning meal while the air is still cool. Steve stares down a seagull, who is also looking for a morning croissant. 

                      

The property's various buildings are hidden within the the greenery and surrounded by lovely old gardens.

     


       


Down below is the sister hotel Eden Roc.  Built into the side of a rock cliff and looking over the sea, the hotel is just a few stories tall. Its salty infinity pool blurs the line between captured water and the sea below, both a much anticipated late afternoon refreshing swim. Although the idea of simply enjoying the property's grounds is tempting, the pull to explore with our small group of 20wins out.

                              

The Musee Nationale Picasso , La Guerret et la Paix, with its muraled chapel that include and arched ceiling and a sampling of his pottery would have been enough       
    
   But there was also the XXIV International contemporary ceramics biennale with an amazing selection of contemporary pieces.  
                          
La Mouissone, a private garden, was an absolute treat. Claudette, the property's owner and garden custodian has done a wonderful job restoring terraced land high in the hills of Grasse. It provided fantastic views, along with bamboo walks and multiple areas to tuck in and enjoy. Notice the butterfly sipping away at a purple tansy like flower.  

                                        
   

We will be paying the price for weeks to come of delicious food. There are many Michelin star locations in the area, but whether it is presenting sorbet in ice sculpture 
                                   


Or La Bastide Saint Antoine with its bougainvillea encrusted walls and delicate sculptures accompanying an outdoor luncheon under a leafy canopy 

Or the seaside Tetou's  simple bouillabaisse and raspberry tart (who remembers these berries EVER being so flavorful) it was ALL wonderful. 

                           
A quick boat trip out to La Guezite on Ile Sainte Maguerite expemplifies the c'est la vie, as people linger over fresh vegetable plates, tomatoes and burrata  to die for, fresh roasted fish and homemade pasta. The band circles and guests young and old dance. No one is in a hurry to leave, so a quick dip between courses lets the day lazily unfold. 



Nice is not far away and worth more than a quick visit for an evening meal at La Petite Maison, a casual spot in the Old Town.

                           

But why not take the one hour  boat ride past Monacco to Byblos Beach at the western end of the Italian Mediteranean? 

         
  
The ubiquitous blue alliums wave us goodbye as we depart for Holland. Bonjour.  Merci. Je cousin remercie! Au revoir - for now!







Saturday, July 9, 2016

St Maxime & Port Cros

The allure of the French Riviera is easy to understand. From the moment of arrival, there is something about the light, the soft colors set against the seemingly endless azure skies that simply washes over you and says life is good. 

We begin our stay at St. Maxime with Xander and Barbara, longtime Dutch friends of Steve's, who have a home and boat here. More gracious and relaxed hosts would be difficult to find!
St Maxime is a delightful harbour town, with pale peach colored stucco homes that creep up into the hill that tumbles down to the understated shops and small beaches. The atmosphere is completely casual compared to its neighbor, San Tropez across the harbour.
The morning after our arrival, we join them in their boat southwest to the petite hill of an island, Port-Cros. 
There is a small dock and a handful of mooring balls to tie up to. No boat anchors are allowed to disturb the  bottom of this delicate seafloor. 
The population is around 100 folks living a hard working but tranquil life. Pale turquoise blue is the favored shutter color. The restaurants are known for local fresh deep water fish found at 60 or more meters below the surface. We chose Le Ause for a long wonderful meal. 
La Manoir is the island's singular small  hotel. You'll pay the price for enjoying it's tranquility but if you want a true escape,  it's lovely gardens and protected pool are certainly enticing. 
After a walk, which did not include a climb to the island's citadel, we cruise to another nature preserved spot to tie up for a swim. We had no idea what the school of light grey with bright blue stripes and small white and black markings were. They seemed as curious about us as we were about them. 
It's time to return to St Maxime's harbour having had a truly fantastic day!