Helsinki, Riga, Klaipeda and Warnemünde - That’s It!

Helsinki, Finland - you know, that Scandinavian country that, like Iceland, confuses most of us because it not part of that neat little cluster with Denmark, Sweden and Norway.  (Yes, there is also Greenland, an autonomous Danish territory, which is very defineitley NOT for sale.) And frankly, the “other” Scandinavian countries can’t quite figure Finland out either. Similarly, the Fins will proudly tell you how different their culture and language is. Helsinki is the country’s capital and by far its largest city, with a population of 1.5 million in a country of 5.5 million.  Her maritime feel, the mood and architecture is much more akin to Eastern Europe and Russian cities than anywhere in Scandinavia, which she had been part of since the 13th century when Sweden slowly began taking it over. It was a Grand Duchy of Russia from 1809 until 1917, when it took advantage of the Russian revolution and declared its independence. It joined the EU in 1995. Considered very progressive, Finland was the first European state to grant all adults the right to vote.  Although traditionally agrarian, innovation and technology has made its mark. The country essentially skipped land lines, going directly to cellular, and Nokia is a major Finish brand. It has one of the world’s highest per capita incomes and standard of living, while achieving 2nd in the world in closing the gender gap disparity - all while embracing the Nordic social welfare model. (Hmmm guess such a thing really is possible.) No wonder Finland rates in the top 5 on the world’s Happiness Scale.  Visit its iconic Cathedral, stroll through its parks, wander it’s food and craft markets and you’ll be happy too!

There is an ease and playfulness, along with a sense of order that is readily felt here and is reflected in the simplicity of the flag’s bright blue cross on a white ground representing Finland’s 168,000 lakes and 179,000 islands.  Merimekko has been celebrated around the world since 1951for its original bold, simple, enduring design of housewares, fabric and clothing.  Environmentally conscious, Finns proudly protect the 400 remaining indemic  Saimaa Ringed Seal by simply eliminating fishing nets at the lake where they live.  Suomenlinna is a “must visit” inhabited 18th century fortress. Originally built as protection against Russian expansion, this 8 islands UNESCO World Heritage Site is readily accessible by ferry for hiking, picnicking and relaxing.  Evie enjoyed a moment of victory atop a cannon. Watching today’s multi story commercial and fishing ships thread through its islands is a nail biting experience.  A wonderful museum and gallery space, with a handful of places to pick up a bite topped off our visit, although some of us were intrigued by the dozens of people attending a festive day of yoga. 

Riga is Latvia’s capital and located between Estonia (you remember Tallinn) and Lithuania (coming up next). Lithuania was named by the Germans in the 12th century, after the Livonain people who lived here.  Like many other Baltic countries, it was rule by Swededen, Poland and Russia and gained its independence in 1918 (.... following a theme here?) In 1930 it was forced back into Russian control, followed by the Nazi’s (more on that in a moment) then reoccuiped by Russia until finally regaining its independence in 1991 and joining the EU in 2004.  Today 26% of Latvia’s population is ethnic Russian, creating ongoing tensions with Russia, who would love to regain its valuable ports.  Riga has a large, charming cobblestones medieval town center with a playful festive feel. Pastries and pastel meringues, some as whimsical creatures, are tempting with a cup of coffee.  Note the dark skinned figure holding the red and white flag on the fairytale like pink facade of the House of the Blackheads that we also saw in Tallinn. There are also blocks of art nouveau facades, reflecting a time in the late late 1800 through early 1900’s when Riga’s population tripled and the city was quite wealthy, in part from its impressive port - which again is a mainstay of its economy, along with tourism, in this city of 640 thousand in a country of 1.9 million.  

There is also a much darker side to Riga’s story. The pogroms (a Russian term describing the riots and massacres aimed at Jews) of the 19th and early 20 century had not affected independent Latvia. Many Russian and Eastern Jewish people chose to emigrate here. Yiddish became their primary language, with Hebrew as the language of educational instruction.  Their economy flourished. Jews formed political parties and participated as members of parliament.  Before World War I there were 190,000 Jews in Latvia, nearly 10% of the population. The population declined during WWI, with a majority remaining in Riga. Stalin invaded Latvia in 1940 and deported many Jews to Inner Russia and what was to become Israel. Beginning in 1941, German Nazi’s murdered 90% of those who remained, as well as German Jews that had been forced into Riga.  Most notably was the Rumbula massacres, when the Nazis killed over  25,000 Jews, in just a couple of days, in the Rumbula forest very near Riga.  The Riga Ghetto Museum does a uniquely engaging description of what it was like for the people who lived through the Holcuast period; from the three and four room wooden homes shared by up to 30 people, to the bronze cast of the old synagogue, the reinterpretation of old photos to paintings and transcriptions of letters with pictographs to communicate to Jewish people who were forbidden to learn to read. Today there is a vital Jewish community of approximately 5,000 living in Riga. 

Klaipėda, Lithuania - is a charming and very popular destination for those living in surrounding countries.  And why not? It has lovely silky sand beaches that remind us of the Long Islands Hamptons without the over development.  The food is delicious - with potatoes being THE most popular ingredient, but please don’t pass up the bright beetroot delicacies. Klaipėda is Lithuania’s third largest city, yet its old town’s seaside location feels like a charming medieval town with cobbled streets and canals with a distinctly German flavor.  Those in-the-know take the car ferry to nearby Juodkrantė.  This is an island of forests, beaches and a charming small town. (Imagine a larger Shelter Island with hills.) People search for amber in the beach. Oversized weathervanes with whimsical designs in nautical colors top homes near the sea to guide fishermen home to their families. Witches Hill rises up 140 feet from the sea. They say from time immemorial it has hosted banquets of reveling devils and witches.  Wander it’s paths and view 80 oak sculptures from woodcarving artists from all over Lithuania that telll the story of Neringa and Naglis. However, it might be safest to return to Klaipėda and stay at Michaelson boutique hotel. Located in an old brick storehouse, it’s located right on the water, with no devils or witches reported to date.  

Warnemünde, Germany - is the last “blog stop” for this Baltic Cruise trip. Founded in the 1200’s, for centuries Warnemünde remained a simple fishing village. It was purchased by Germany in 1323 to safeguard critical access to the Baltic Sea. Today it acts as a gateway to the city of Berlin, which is 153 miles inland.  The 150 miles of beach and seaside towns welcome tourists.  We were fascinated by the rattan Strandkorb, aka beach chair . Folded up they store all manner of beach gear, but open to reveal seating for two, foot rests and canopy protection from the sun.  The complexity and extreme engineering indicate that this is clearly the Mercedes Benz of beach chairs! The grandkids joined us for coal powered single gauged train trip into the countryside. (We decided the electric car we use in Boston had given us enough carbon credits.) Nearby Doberaner Münster is the charming main Lutheran church located in Bad Doberman, Mecklenburg.  This charming UNESCO World Heritage Site is what remains of then1368 Doberan Abbey, which was used as the burial site for regional rulers and the abbey’s monks.  The interior altars, sculptures and artwork collectively create a magical, fairytale like experience. Swans have made the grounds their home. 

St Petersburg - Colorful, Historical, Whimsical

Glistening gilded onion-domes, an unabashed bright color palate and whimsical Baroque architecture,  combine with an intricate canal system to make St Petersburg a city like no other; and its historic center UNESCO World Heritage Site worthy. Tsar Peter the Great founded the city in 1703 as Sanct-Peterburg. He was the first Russian monarch to travel outside of  Russia. He subsequently devised a plan to lure European trade to a new Russian port further south than Arkhangelsk in the White Sea, which would  inconveniently freeze over in the winter months. His vision was to build a city Europeans could relate to architecturally and by requiring that his court to adopted European dress, win them over culturally as well.  Inspired by Amsterdam’s canals, he hired Domenico Trezzini to design the layout of the city and, along with Jean Baptiste Le Blond, its Petrine Baroque buildings wich incorporated Byzantine onion shaped domes. This marrying of West with East gives the city its unique fairytale-like character. Other Russian nobility contributed to its expansion. Both Elizabeth and Catherine the Great added tremendously to of the city as an architectural and cultural wonder. 

This vision came at tremendous cost.  The city is situated on the Neva River at the head of the Gulf of Finland on the Baltic Sea.  Although it has an amazingly large and protected harbor, the area was essentially a swampy estuary dotted with a few small islands. Creating the city required a landfill project that make New York and Boston seem like child’s play.  Tens of thousands of conscribed peasants and Swedish prisoners of war died during its initial creation. In total, it is estimated that two-hundred-thousand died over the twenty years it took to build St Petersburg. 

In his short life, Peter the Great (1682-1725) successfully established the city and moved Russia’s capital from Moscow to Sanct-Peterburg. In 1732, Empress Anna established it as the seat of the Romanov Dynasty, where it remained until the Dynasty’s end in 1917. Over the years it was renamed Saint Petersburg, Petrograd and Leningrad. With few short exceptions, Russia’s capital remained here until Lenin moved the capital to Moscow in 1918.  Today it is the northern most metropolis in the world, considered Russia’s cultural capital and is the country’s second largest city with over five-million people.  

The Winter Palace we know today was built between 1754 and 1762. It was begun by Empress Anna and expanded by Elizabeth to reflect the might and power of Imperial Russia.  It has 1,500 rooms, 1,768 doors, 1,945 windows and 117 staircases and has 176 sculpted figures along its roofline.  Situated along the Neva River, the iconic State Hermitage Museum occupies only six of the Winter Palace’s multitude of buildings.  Its probably best known neoclassical inspired Tiffany green and white facade with gold trim, just gives a hint of what is inside. The Hermitage’s design intent was to create relative simplicity to the opulent Winter Palace, which it connected to via covered walkways and  heated courtyards that held rare birds.  It’s purpose was to house an international collection of art and objects.

After the fall of the last Tzar, Nicholas II, in 1917 the Hermitage was expanded to include other parts of the Winter Palace, which include The Russian-red throne room and Malachite Room, among others that still inspire visions of Tzarist Russia.  Many of the rooms’ surfaces are highly embellished.  Wood floors are inlaid with rare woods from around the world.  Arched hallways are covered in paintings and mosaics.  Soaring ceilings with gilded statuary can be found  everywhere outside of the art object laden galleries.  It’s literally dizzying. 

The Hermitage collection is worlds 2nd largest, most comprehensive and finest. The collection was begun by the purchase of 255 pieces from a Berlin art dealer made by Catherine the Great in 1764.  Put together over two and a half centuries, it’s 3 million pieces reflect the development of the world from the Stone Age through the 20th century.  The paintings include many of the best known Renaissance and pre-Renaissance artists.  Renoir's Prodigal Son is simply magical. Leonardo Da Vinci Madonna and Child is iconic.  But it was the  strong graphics of the 16th century Maiolica glazed earthenware engagement plates that caught my eye. Moorish potters from Maiolica, or Majorca, are reputed to have created these in Sicily.  They capture the image of a potential bride or announce an engagement. NOTE - the fantastic impressionist and post-impressionist collection, which I remember so well from a 1991 visit, has been moved to another part of the Winter Palace and is now in a the general staff building. We didn’t make it this trip, but it’s absolutely worth it so please do!

The empty gilded frames pictured abode are NOT pieces currently out on loan. This is from a series of digitally manipulated photographs, The Hermitage 1941-2014, by the artist Yasumasa Morsimura that can be found throughout the Winter Palace. The series was inspired by a little known episode in the life of the Hermitage. During the Great Patriotic War, aka WWII, (1941-1945) the Hermitage staff cut hundreds of  canvases from their frames, layering them between straw and hiding them away before the Nazi troops cut the city off from the rest of the country.  For decades afterwards, Hermitage staff would give tours describing in great detail the previous content of the empty frames.  This remarkable event acts as a backdrop to a highly recommended novel, Coffee and Vodka, by Finish author Helena Halme, about immigration, war and its long term affect on families. 

 

Church of Our Savior in Spilled Blood is so named because it was constructed on the spot where Tsar Alexander II, a reformer best  known for the emancipation of Russian serfs, was mortally injured by political nihilists in 1881. This Russian Orthodox Church was funded by the Imperial family and constructed between 1883 and 1907.  The church’s exterior is festooned with five gold and brightly colored sculpted onion-dome cuplolas.  The interior is a riot of gold and enamel mosaics, which are so intricate that they are indistinguishable from paintings unless one looks very closely.  In recent years, the church has reopened for limited services, although as our guide shared, that after the State’s  extended suppression, many Russians are learning the various aspects of Greek Orthodox services and faith for the first time.  

The St Peter and Paul cathedral and fortress is the city’s first and oldest landmark.   By pure coincidence, the cathedral’s names are those of the first two assassinated Russian emperors - lots of that in Imperial  Russian times! The cathedral acts as the burial vault of all but two Russian emperors. Even the country’s last tsar, Nicholas II remains were finally entombed here in 1998, after his remains disappeared upon his 1918 assassination.  The dombed cathedral’s interior is encrusted in gold  with malachite green finishes.The bell tower is the world’s tallest for a Greek Orthodox Church.  On the exterior is a cast bronze plaque memorializing residents who painted the bell tower grey, successfully disguising it from WWII bombing raids.  The  building, it’s interior and many stories, is awe inspiring.  

New Holland island was created in 1719.  (You remember the peasant and prisoner workforce?) It was named after the city that so inspired Peter the Great. It’s island location protected timber from city fires and integrated canals and locks made it perfect for shipbuilding.  In the 1820’s it became a military point and naval prison, fondly called the Bottle House.  After being closed for decades, it reopened to the public in 2016 and is dedicated to the persuit of fun! The prison is in the shape of an oval with a large interior courtyard.  The three floors maintain the original prison rooms and are a combination of coffe houses, restaurants, bars, well curated shops (we loved the retro and contemporary book store), yoga and dance studios.  Outside is a playground and grassy areas for various outdoor activities, movies, concerts and even free (clearly this is not a capitalist economy) chairs for relaxing. The island’s  local arts school and art making space has recently been invaded by magenta snails, one giving a ride to Evie. In the winter, part of the outside is flooded creating an ice rink for skating, so there’s no reason to miss out on St Petersburg’s answer to Moscow’s Gorky Park. 

Piter, as the city is know by locals, has many enticing things to do and see; from Nevsky Prospects street’s shopping to the world’s deepest most elaborate subways. The waterways throughout the city make it particularly enticing.  But come prepared.  Temperature swings and brief precipitation is the norm.  A $1,000 visa is the cost to wander at will. However private guides are a far less expensive workaround. And, frankly, if we had been with and then left the cruise group and simply taken a taxi back to the boat, no one would have been the wiser.  Russia is now wide open to travelers and “State followers” are not what they used to be. If you do make the trip, travel to both St. Petersburg and Moscow, about 300miles south  by train. The two cities could not be more different and clearly reflect the principal differences in the country’s ethos and government from the time of Peter the Great, through the Romanovs, to Lenin, Stalin, Krushev, Gorbachev and the present. 

Cruising the Baltic - Tallinn Estonia - a Fairyland

We are cruising the Baltic on the Seven Seas Explorer with Jeremy, Erin and the girls.  Ten days of cruising means about 8 stops, so brace yourself.  There could be as many blog posting in about as many days.  

And no, Blue Chip has not been replaced, but please don’t tell her. She gets jealous, but the crossing would simply have been too much for her.  We’re sharing the ship for with about 700 hearty souls. The number of passengers initially had me in a panic, but the ship size with all suite rooms, numerous common area spots and multiple restaurants gives everyone room to breathe.  There are numerous on board activities with a focus on fitness rather then crazy amusement parks  and water slides. The Kids Camp has a wide selection of day and night activities offering 8 year old Evelyn an escape from the rest of us and Clara time to have the room to herself.  The adults are having a good time too.  

Tallin, Estonia’s capital, is an absurdly photogenic walled medieval town. Although first mentioned by cartographersa in 1154, the city we officially  founded by the Danes in 1219. It is located on the shore of the Gulf of Finland and is about 380 miles east of Stockholm, 50 miles south of Helsinki and 200 miles west of St Petersburg.  It has close historical ties with all of these cities.  Their countries, as well as Germany and Poland, at one time owned Tallin. For many years it was better known by its historical German name, Reval. Each of these countries protected this valuable harbour and trade cross road location, which explains why it was preserved and is one of Europe’s  most complete Medieval walled cities and thus a UNESCO Heritage City.   

The name Tallinn means the castle town of the Danes. It is by far Estonias’s  most populous city (435,000 out of 1,325,000).  After a brief War of Independence at the end of World War I, Estonia gained its independence from a weakened Russia in 1920. During World War II it was repeatedly occupied by the Germany and the Soviet Union, from which it again gained its independence and joined the EU in 2004 as a democratic parliamentary republic with uiversal health care, education and the longest maternity leave in the OECD. It is considered one of its fastest growing EU economies and is notably internet savvy - using it for elections and e-residency.  Tallinn’s blue and white striped flag mimics Estonias and reflects the colors of its city’s Coat of Arms.  Estonia’s flag colors represent a blue for sky, a black for rich soil and white for hope.

What immediately strikes you in Tallinn’s Old Village is the wide variety of pastel tones, which make you feel warm, even on a chilly drizzling  day. Arches you pass through are often part of  the medieval wall and curved, narrow cobblestone streets remind you of the city’s origin at every turn. The large cobble stone town square is lined with places to grab a bite.

Many of the doors are incredibly colorful and graphic This green, gold and red is particularly interesting, with a dark skinned man at the top.  He represents the Brotherhood of the Blackheads. Originally founded as a military organization, overtime it became less military and evolved into an association of local, unmarried merchant shipowners and foreigners. They were active here from the 14 century until 1940. The door is worth searching out!

The whimsey of the Old Town is impossible to escape.  Definitely stop at the Kohvik Cafe - the cities oldest. Marzipan figures are incredibly detailed and lovely with a cup of cappuccino.  It’s counter top ferris wheel carefully balances cups, saucers and spoons. 

Weather vanes, looking like filigree   sculpture, punctuate decorative gables.  Many of the multi colored facades have a story.  This gentleman was added several hundred years ago by a young couple who became aware that he had been watching his across street young newlywed neighbor while she dressed. Rather than confront him, they added this decoration to remind him, and his neighbors, about his peeping habits.

Medieval  and Renaissance  singing and instruments can be heard at St Catherine’s church.

You may not  have plans to travel to Estonia in the immediate future.  But maybe you are on a Baltic cruise, as we were, or maybe Helsinki or Stockholm are in your plans? If so, definitely keep Tallinn on your list.  There are few places in Europe that are like this,  a placewhere you feel transported; that feels genuine; that doesn’t feel sleek and brash.  You’ll be glad you made the trip - even if it is just for a day, although why not stay longer?

Stockholm - Less Known, Bridal Showers & Mystery-man

 

Stockholm is on the must-visit list for anyone evenly remotely interested in visiting Scandinavia.  So why bother with a blog page about a city already known for its spire dotted harbour horizons and butter-yellow colored buildings? What is there to add? Among this city of islands there are stories worth searching out and a mystery waiting to be solved.

First - Why do the Swedish flag colors  differ from its Scandinavian relatives? The colors are found in its 1442 coat of arms and the graphic design mimics the Danish flag; Sweden’s chief rival in the 15c. The bright light blue ground represents justice, loyalty and truth while the gold cross for Christianity or generosity.  The design was first documented in 1521.

Second - Who is the bronze fellow found perpetually leaning against a wall in the cobblestone streets of Gamla Stan (Old Town)? Evert Taube (1890-1976) is a Swedish author, artist, composer and one its most respected musicians and troubadour of Swedish ballads. Take a listen to a medley of his music!

Third - Does Pippy Longstocking ever age?  AKA Pippi Långstrump hasn’t aged a day since she first appeared in 1945 as the orange pigtailed main character of countless books authored by Swedish author Astrid Lingren. Make note; mischief is reported as the secret ingredient in keeping her young.  

Fourth - Who is Alfred Nobel and why the prize?  Alfred Nobel (1833 - 1896) was a complex man. The Swedish philanthropist was also an industrialist, inventor who held 355 patents and discovered dynamite.  He surprised those attending the reading of his will, with creating an endowment which established the Nobel Prize: I intend to leave at my death a large fund for the promotion of the peace idea, but I am skeptical as to its results. Maybe he was a karmic believer?  The 5 annual prizes honor advancements in Peace,  Chemistry, Literature, Medicine and Physics.  Find the Nobel Prize Museum (Nobelmuseet) in the Old Town’s old stock exchange. The changing exhibits make this a thoughtful experience. 

Have you ever considered the origin of the Bridal Shower? In 1684 Christopher Theil opened a public bathhouse, which included the extravagance of bathing amongst flower petals and herbal essences.  Personal hygiene at the time was a bit hit or miss. Cleanliness of brides was highly prized and thus Rosenbads, rose enfused bath, followed by a party became a local tradition.  If Mr Theil could only have seen into the future! 

Where to stay?  Always a big question.  Hotel Skeppsholmen is located along the water in a 17th century building with a country chic vibe and all the modern conveniences.  It’s located on the lovely small green island of the same name and easily accessible to Old Town or downtown in 10 minutes by ferry or foot. The Moderna Museet (Modern Museum) is also located there.  It houses one of the world’s most comprehensive collection of modern art, 100,000 image of photography and outdoor sculptures, including Pablo Picasso’s 1962 sculpture Lunch in the Grass.  Note: don’t plan a Monday visit, or maybe you should? The Moderna Museet is closed, but you can still wander the island and have a coffee at the hotel while quitetly watching Stockholm’s busy waterway. 

What to do on a Monday? A number of the art museums are closed, so look for outdoor artists.  It’s always a treat.  There is also the Spiritmuseum and tasting room to explore the history of Aquavit.  The open-air museum, Skansen, was one of the first of its kind and demonstrates traditional methods of making glass, bread, even medicine and includes 150 historical buildings and zoo with a collection of popular Nordic animals.  Granddaughter Evelyn particularly likes the lynx. 

Mystery question: do you know who this man is? Your not alone. Located in the lovely atrium area of the Kungliga Slottet (aka Royal Palace) between the cafe and gift shop, he stands over 10 feet tall among several others who are apparently from the same time period. But it’s the mustache that makes him stand out - clearly not in sync with his Roman robes and herbaceous crown.  We asked and were referred to others on the palace staff but no one knew.  King Carl Gustafsson XVI was in residence, but unfortunately not available.  If you do find out, please let us know. 

Description

DescriptNobel Peace Prize is one of the five Nobel Prizes established by the will of Swedish industrialist, inventor, and armaments manufacturer Alfred Nobel, along with the prizes in Chemistry, Physics, Physiology or Medicine, and Literat