As we leave Boston harbor, this image foreshadows the next few days of boating - historical sites, a bit overcast but generally friendly seas.
Our first stop is Mattapoisett, that dark red spot near the elbow leading to Cape Cod. The Cape Cod Canal provides a convenient cut that allows us to take a shortcut here along the southern part of the map's pink shape without going all the way up and around Provincetown, the Cape's most northern reach.
This area of Buzzards Bay is truly laid back. Homes here are generally small and no one is out to impress.
Marion is located ever so slightly north. Although established in 1679 as Sippican, disagreements with neighboring villages led to the town being re-established in 1852 and then named after Revolutionary War hero Francis Marion. Since then, the economy relied on the waters of Buzzard Bay for fishing, summertime tourism and ever popular sailing.
The Little Red Library take a book-leave a book philosophy and the First Congregational "Be the Church" sign, pretty much says it all. Marion has a tiny charming town with a small local market, three or four stores and probably all you would have really needed in the mid-1800's. The local population of just under 5,000 thinks that suits just fine.
On our way into Rhode Island Sound, high on White Hill bluff, is the iconic Ocean House. Famous for its yellow facade and stunning views, it opened just after the Civil War in 1868 and was the last of the Victorian Era waterfront hotels on mainland Rhode Island. It's recent high budget renovations and Relais and Chatteau status will likely guarantee its stately presence for generations to come. Sandwiched between Boston, New York City and Newport, there is easy access by car, boat or, if you choose, helicopter. I'm just saying....
Next port of call is Jamestown Village on Conanicut Island. (And no that's not a spelling error.) Founded in 1636 as a trading post by the Dutch West Indian Company to trade with the Narragansett Indians, beaver pelts and castorium - perfume musk oil from the renal glands of MIT's mascot (you REALLY don't want to know more than that) - made it an important destination for ships entering Narragansett Bay. In 1678 the village was incorporated and named for King James II.
Today it has a population of just over 5,000 and is the 441st wealthiest city in the USA. (Those miles of beautiful coastline come at a cost.) The long delicate canteleavered Jamestown Verrazano bridge spans Narragansett Bay, joining Rhode Island's North Kingston to Jamestown and Newport. However, unlike its east and west neighbors, Jamestown Village's seaside location is lost in time, with cedar shingled and brightly painted clapboard homes, farmers market, an excellent wine store, gourmet shop, a few restaurants, local museum, library and excellent wine store right in the center of town. What more could you need?
As we continue along the western shores of Naragansett Bay on our way to Wickford, we are greeted by the Polar Point Light. The wooden lighthouse was originally built in 1831 and is the oldest wooden lighthouse in the United States. It has recently been incorporated into a private home, which will likely ensure its continuation.
Wickford Village was established as a trading post in 1637 and surrounds one of the most well protected harbors on the eastern seaboard, which explains the inordinate number of boatyards, moorings and anchorages that line the harbor and its entrance. Wickford has several claims to fame.
* It abuts the Quonset Point Air National Guard Station, where Richard Nixon did his basic training in 1942.
* The village has the largest collection of historic 18c homes, still on their original foundations, in the northeast. Greek Revival, Late Victorian and Federal styles speak to the village's early importance.
* The annual Wickford Art Festival is one of the most prominent on the eastern seaboard, attracting 100's of worldwide artists and thousands of patrons.
* The fiber arts have a startling presence here with spinning wheels at the harbor and willage weavers, yarns and fabric stores.
* There is only ONE ice cream store AND it's is CLOSED on Monday! (You can't even begin to imagine the dismay this caused our captain! Or maybe you can?)
Bristol has an extremely long history. The area's Wappanoagas Indians predated and then worked as guides for the Pilgrims. Four early Colonists purchased Mt Hope and Poppasquash Necks as part of the Plymouth Colony, which included the area eventually called Bristol and part of Massachusetts until the Crown transferred it to RI in 1747. Interestingly Bristol boasts the oldest continuous celebration of Independence Day, which began in 1777.
This deep water port has a long seaworthy history.
Superb boat building is so storied here that buying a used boat "in Bristol condition" infers that it is in impeccable shape. Bristol based Herreshoff boat company built five consecutive American Cup Defender winners between 1893 and 1920. They, Hunt and Hinkley all have boatyards here. An active commercial boat presence endures today and speaks to its enduring importance.
New London is located on the far southeast Connecticut coast. For several decades, beginning in the 19th century, it was one of the three busiest whaling ports in the US and furnished much of the capital to fund the city's architecture. Various manufactures came and have since moved on. Today New London is popularly known as a ferry departure point for Block Island, RI, Fisher Island NY (Don't tell CT!) and Orient Point, NY. Amtrak also stops here, just a short mile from the ferry port.
This is such a very small handful of what this area has to offer. Make your way south - or north, as the case might be and explore the many delightful towns of the Cape, Rhode Island and Connecticut coasts. Treat yourself and include the ferry as an alternate when making your way by car or foot from NYC to Boston or the Islands. Reservations in summer are a must!
Next time your thinking of coastal exploration, give this area a try - history, art, architecture, food - charming any time of year.
