Santa Barbara - Lotusland to Stagecoach

                    

Lotusland is a 37-acre subtropical and tropical wonderland realized by the vision of Hana Puacz, a Polish woman humbly born in 1887. A renowned  beauty, she changed her name from to Ganna Walska with the launch of  her operatic and acting career, performaning over the coming decades in New York, Paris and Europe, attracting the attention of audiences, critics and gentlemen on both sides of the Atlantic. The paparazzi followed her and men begged for her hand in marriage, including Harold  Fowler McCormick, who scandalously divorced Edith Rockefeller in 1922 in order to marry the socialite opera singer. 

                       

                       

Always an adventurer, and desiring to leave Nazi Europe, Madam Walska turned her sights toward California's sunny climate and free thinking residents. At the encouragement of her 6th, last and much younger husband, Theos Bernard, she purchased the Santa Barbara, Spanish inspired Mediterranean style Cuesta Linda estate in 1941, intending to use it as a retreat for Tibetan monks, renaming it "Tibetanland".

                       

The monks never appeared, and after divorcing Bernard, Madame Walsaka changed the estate's name to "Lotusland" in honor of the incredibly tall sacred Indian lotus growing in one of the estate's many ponds. For her life's remaining 40 years Walsaka transformed from socialite to renowned garden designer. Often selling jewels and bartering to fund acquisitions, she experimented with bold forms. mass plantings and unusual color combinations. Although there are topiaries, rose gardens and citrus arbors, the primary focus is on succulents, cactus,  airplants, palms, and cycads. Rare species abound, some protected by international treaties, occasionally representing the only natural site these plants can be found in the world. You had no idea some of these plants even existed and now you can't wait to discover more about them. 

                            

But all that garden wandering can make a person MIGHTY hungry. So Its off to the Cold Spring Tavern. Originally a stagecoach stop in 1865 between San Francisco and Los Angeles, it's located about 20 minutes by car north of Santa Barbara in Cold Spring Canyon in the Marcos Pass area on the way to Santa Ynez. We would have never found it without Steve's old MIT pal, Bob Johnson, leading the way. Okay - and with a little help from a local biker. 

                  

If your looking for tofu and vegan chow - this ISN'T your place. Folks make the trek here for venisin sausage, buffalo burgers, beef tips, their famous chili, wild bear - when available - and the amazing beer battered onion rings. Yes they do serve quiche and some seafood - but on the weekends it's bikers and BBQ. 

The Kaufman's thank Lisa and Bob Johnson for putting us up yet again in their historical Santa Barbara home with views down the valley to the water. We'd never find these gems, the restaurants or theaters without you. Heading this way - we'll ask the Johnson's for their recommendations. Trust us, you'll never know Santa Barbara until you get the Johnson's "visit list".

     

     

     

Music Weekend - Tanglewood or Boston's Copley Square

The weekend of July 24 had lots to offer - with thunderstorms threatening at every moment. 

We started with a Boston Pier reception to launch Boston's 4th annual Summer Arts Weekend.

Saturday morning Karen took off for  a quick overnight visit with her neice Crysta at Mt Holyoke College, where she's working for the summer. From there, it was an easy drive to Tanglewood, Lenox (we reccomend Alta's wine bar for amazing food) & charming Lee. Back to S Hadley and the Daniel Stebins B&B. 

Steve remained behind in Boston for an evenjng of music with, among others, R&B's Betty LaVette and Grammy Award winning Emmylou Harris with Rodney Crowell. 

Sunday afternoon was kicked off with Boston's 200 year old, continuously performing, famed Handel & Hayden Socirty  presentation of Beethoven's 9th Symphony, with it's moving Ode to Joy. Finished in 1824, when nearly completely deaf, it is said that the composer needed to be turned around from the conductor's podium to witness his audience's standing ovation with arms swaying in the air. The music engendered the same response today by over ten-thousand who had gathered in Copley Square. Ludwig is clearly still a rock star.

Followed by the fiddling and dancing Natalie MaMaster and New Orleans' own son Aaron Neville, there was something for everyone. 

Of course you could drive to the Tanglewood's  Berkshires, but then Copley Square is just a few short blocks away. We suggest you mark your calendars and we'll see you next year in Bodton. 

July 4th - New England Island Style

We agree that Boston offers magnificent Independence Day options - highlighted by the Boston Pops introducing the fireworks on the Charles River just behind our house. But when the weather's fair, the water calls and off we go on Blue Chip. 

       

Through the Cape Cod canal, with a lunch stop at Tarpaulin Cove to meet an MIT classmate of Steve's, then on to Martha's Vineyard and Cuttyhunk - that's the holiday island plan. 

Martha's Vineyard has much to offer. Across this 20 mile wide island, is a wide variety of geography, foliage, ponds, harbors and winding roads, punctuated by small towns, each with its own personality. 

Edgartown boasts a large protected harbor with a much appreciated launch service to our mooring. Arguably the most sophisticated town on the island, it might remind you of Nantucket Town "light".

Oak Bluffs charms with its countless rows of small, colorful Victorian homes. Time it right, and you can join the celebration at the outdoor tabernacle. 

Menemsha is a small fishing village in the islands northwest corner, with lovely beaches. This is certainly the place to go if you really want to escape. 

Along with our crew, Karen & Joe, we were fortunate to meet up with various friends who call Martha's Vineyard home. A full end to end tour from Bob and Liz revealed outlying farm stands, art galleries, biking, hiking and just how much there is to do here. Rodger and Sandy know every schedule for getting to the island, just in case you're feeling inspired. 

Cuttyhunk Island, a mere 7-8 miles away, and denoted by the blue dot on the right map, truly offers the escape we all sometimes crave. Located at the southwest end of the Elizabeth Islands, this small one square mile outpost boasts a wonderful harbor, beaches and a hilly terrain  dotted with cedar clapboard homes. Officially the town of Gosmold, the census population of 50 swells to the hundreds come summer. With islanders offering provisions, a few small restaurants, raw bar brought to your boat and fresh made donuts beginning at 6AM - or 6:30 or 7 - hey it's island time - everyone feels welcome. 

Not to be missed is the famous Cuttyhunk July 4th parade. Decorated golf carts are out in force. The fire department cools the crowd before everyone climbs the hill for local electives' welcome speaches and a batton twirling performance by Miss Massachusetts. 

Our friends Pat and Alan, who split their time between Cuttyhunk and Useppa, included us in a flury of family cocktails, BBQ and general good times, making it difficult to think of leaving. 

Even if you aren't a boater, take the daily ferry from New  Bedford and rent a house or stay at the Fishing Club B&B. There's long walks, terrific views, Pickle Ball and the nicest of folk. You'll never forget Cuttyhunk.

Although hardly a comprehensive visit of the Masdachusets islands, it's a terrific beginning for anyone interested in exploring. See you next Independence Day Weekrnd.