Monday, July 15, 2013

Seville - perfectly bejeweled

Poets, authors, artist and composers have long espoused the love they have for Seville. There is something glorious about the combination of Moorish and Christian Spain that creates magic. 


Historical buildings, from as early as the 8th century, are lavishly embellished with decorative Moorish arches, elaborately carved painted and gilded ceilings of wood or plaster and walls covered with azulejos glazed ceramic tiles that are reminiscent of those found in Morocco. The result is jewelbox homes with fountain centered courtyards and carefully planned gardens dotted with orange trees. 

The Christian conquest in the late 13th century kept the Arabic structures and simply incorporated them within their gothic architecture. Therefore, Seville's monumental cathedral's core is the earlier built masque. The all  important bell tower (La Giraldi) is the 10th century minaret.


The final cathedral is an incredible mix of architecural styles, from Moorish to Rococo, that evolved over centuries. A knave's pure silver alter is stunning. The interior tomb of Chistopher Columbus was a surprise.  (He wasn't always the most popular guy at court, but gained favor by ultimately opening up the New World, and therefore Seville and its port on the Guadalquivir  to incredible commercial growth.) 


The whitewashed and colorfully decorated labyrinth of Santa Cruz is the old Jewish quarter, ironically located alongside these religious structures with thier large public squares. The Jews were generally not embraced by the Moors and many left Seville.  They returned with Christian rule, which turned out to be a BIG mistake, even well before the Inquisition. Thousands died and although none of the old synagogues remain, the Santa Cruz quarter lives on with a museum that tells the awkward relationship that Spain has had with this population over hundreds of years.

Seville is all about life, energy, bull fighting, Flamenco and cafes which stay open late at night with children still running around outside close to midnight. It's an easy going, friendly local - in fact we ran into a branch of the Useppa Miller clan - Kathy and Scott - who were bringing their daughter to a week of camp in Spain, while they "waited" for her in Portugal. Now THERE'S an idea!

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