Sunday, July 14, 2013

Andalusia - think Clint Eastwood

If you're from northern Europe, Andalusia is all about the beaches of Costa del Sol and the luxury marinas of Marbella. Americans are more likely to have vicariously experienced this area of southern Spain from fabled western movies, including those of a young Clint Eastwood. This area is the most diverse in all of Spain, but it is the history of the bandido and the Moor's Peublos Blancos that capture the imagination. 


We were very fortunate to have stayed at the home of Judy and Arthur Walsh, a generous globe trotting  English couple we met in Burma last year.  Although our list of things to do was long, as we perched high in the hills, with amazing views, garden and pool, rest often won over exploring. 


Unmistakable in this area are the striking hilltop positioned Pueblos Blancos.  Many were first established by the Romans before the time of Christ. The Moors, who took over much of Spain in the 8th century and held onto it until the 15th, expanded these still agriculturally based towns, whitewashing them to deflect the sun. 

Ronda's is known for its dramatic gorge connecting ancient Roman bridge.  It is also Spain's spiritual home of bullfighting and consequently packed with tourists. Many Spaniards making the pilgrimage here to the Corrida Goyesca. The more modest, picturesque and atmosphere filled towns were the nearby Gaucin and Casares, named for Ceasar. Both are dramatic cliffhanging examples that suddenly appear as you drive through the southern sierras. 


Bandido's were another reason for the survival of the Peublos Blancos. Political unrest has long been part of the Spanish ethos. Bandidos spanned the continuum of bandit to Robin Hood and were the subject of romantics well into the early 1900's. The name, Esteban Kaufman, can still cause hearts to flutter or blood to run cold. 

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