Sri Lanka!

A tear shaped island off the south coast of India has long been a place of fascination. But, until recently, three decades of civil war have made it less available to outsiders.

Before exploring, we were both craving pure rest. We stayed among a coconut grove along the southeast coast. The pounding durf, swaying palms and rich foliage served up pure relaxation. 

And then there was the hospital visit. Steve became a bit dehydrated and after passing out, was brought to a countryside hospital for evaluation and an overnight stay. Beyond the culture shock of being in a country where there are no private rooms and the norm is to bring your own sheets, clothes and food, the testing and care was top notch. And Steve now has over a dozen new Sri Lankan friends. 

There were many apologies about having to charge our patient for his hospital stay.  A mere $18 later Steve was discharged with the results from a full work up, including a digital EKG. We were happy to pay. 

What did we learn? Don't judge a book by its cover. And yes, Steve is fine. 

Utilities - a "Different" Approach

As many of you know, Steve's educational background is as an electrical engineer. Coupled with the fact that he frequently teaches TOM (aka Technology  and Operations Management) to first year HBS students, you can understand his fascination with "how things get done".  As Karen emerged from a shop housing the most delicate hand made silks, she found Steve looking skyward. Considering the ubiquitous presence of temples and saffron clad monks, could this be an inspired moment of spirituality?

                         

Ah, but much more engrossing, it was the running of a new line by the local electrical utility group. Men work in threes - one moves the ladder to rest against the lines so he can catch the new line tossed up by his partner and then throws it down to the third man in the team. The workmen move at incredible speed and can go down an entire block in about 10 minutes.  As we wondered about how anyone could make sense of the tangle at the corner junction, it was explained that if a line goes dead, instead of tracing it back, another line is simply run. Now that's efficiency!

                       

Steve needed an ice cream to recover as he thought through this approach to utility repair. However, when Karen considered the HOURS she has spent getting the Boston electrical utility to come to the house, and the subsequent HOURS repair men spend staring at and testing junctions at their home's electrical panel, often resulting in their need to return to repeat the process, she's gladly willing to try the Cambodian approach. 

Markets for Everyone - a Way of Life

Phnom Penh has streets with shops containing anything you can imagine. There are themed "districts", like in New York City, with store after store selling statuary, electronics, heavy duty building equipment, fabrics - you name it. But if you want one-stop shopping for everyday items, you head for one of many markets. 

Most neighborhoods have an open, or partially covered, market.  These labyrinths boom from 6-11AM and again from 4-6PM and are where you come for daily shopping of swimming fish, cut to order meat, eggs, baked goods, sweets and every imaginable produce. In a country with hot weather and refrigeration which often still relies on the delivery of ice blocks, a daily market stop is a way of life for families and local restaurants. Prepared food stalls are always humming with activity as long days and often an hour on a motor scooter to get home means little time for cooking. 

                          

The well known Russian Market, Toul Tumpuong, expands its offerings to include household goods, statuary, fabrics, tailoring, beauty salon and pretty much anything a home could need.  The brightly colored sweets could not be explained. The roasted roaches, grasshopper salad and reportedly egg tasting silkworms all got a pass. At one time great bargains could be had here on gold and gemstones, although now Cambodians will tell you that the nearby shops are more reputable. But this is a terrific place to spend a couple of hours. Bargaining is friendly and you'll find many things you never even realized you needed.

                          

Central Market caters to middle-class Khmers. Built in 1937, this Art Deco structure rises like a science fiction four legged yellow spider topped by one of the world's largest domes.  The blue clock tower at its center is THE place to meet. This market is a not-really-air conditioned labyrinth of stalls selling everything, including high end electronics, watches, jewelry, glass Buddhas, fabrics, clothing, tailoring services, household goods and Cambodian famed elephant pants, with food stalls along its outer reaches. Stalls are numbered and locked down every night. If you hope to ever return to a shop, collect their business card or be prepared to be lost for hours! 

                          

Aeon is a contemporary three storied western world type mall that sells everything for the wealthy Khmer.  High end designer clothing compete with massage chairs and refrigerators with more doors and drawers than you knew were possible. The first floor surprises with Parma hams, western cheeses, restaurants - including a pizza - and take out food which can be had at lovely tables. Someone did there homework. 

There's more - much more. Come take a look. Enjoy!

The Images that Will Stay With You

Phnom Penh doesn't reflect a complete picture of Cambodia, but the juxtaposition of the traditional and the signs of a hoped for future that you will find throughout the country. There are many who say Cambodia is reminiscent of China 30 years ago. Their is tremendous ambition among a disproportionally young, hard working populous who are ready for change but who also unabashedly embrace their heritage. 

                                 

Buddhism arrived here with King Ashoka in he 3rd century BC and its practice still dominates life here. Homes and businesses often have a prayer house at their entrance. Stupas and temples can be found around every few corners in Phnom Phen as well as the countryside.

                                             

Wat Botum has been the city's spiritual gathering place since the 15th century and is located just next to the Royal Palace, whose complex is also the home of the magnificent Silver Pagoda - pictured here. 

                                  

With the Budhist University, several monestaries and The Ministry of Cult and Religion all within a few blocks, it can often feel as if monks make up 20-percent or more of the cities midtown population. The juxtaposition of these important religious sites to the Palace underscores their importance to the fabric of Cambodian culture. 

                                 

Cambodia's King is nominated among members of the royal family and elected for life as head of state by a Royal Council.  The current King Nordum Sihamoni was Cambodia's cultural embassador to Europe and a classical dance instructor, who was corronated on October 14, 2004, after his beloved elderly father Nordom Sihanouk abdicated. (Hey, everyone deserves to retire, even if you are the king!) The are in front of the palace is blocked off as a walking street with a grassy park area between it and the Tomle Sap river,  making it a popular gathering spot in the evening for families, young people and adventurous tourists. 

                         

France's impact on architecture and food during their 100 year stay, is reminiscent of Hanoi. Several ochre colored Coonial buildings remain, such as the main post office. The culinary influence can be seen as it overlays the southeast Asian cuisines here and the number of fine French restaurants. 

Cambodia has a rich history. For centuries they were a regional powerhouse, impacted by the neighbors they conquered. Buddhism has long exerted a strong influence, yet there's Hinduism mixed in and coexistance with other faiths. Although centuries ago ruling kings warred with each other, the king now reflects a time of stability. All these elements combines to create something that may reflect what is uniquely Cambodia. 

Cambodia - a Past Not to be Forgotten

Today's Cambodia is so delightful that, one nearly forgets it's very sobering past. The role the U.S. played in supporting a military coup and then bombing of eastern Cambodia, killing 150-thousand peasants in an attempt to block North Vietnamese, directly led to the rise of Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge (Red Cambodians). Subsequenlty 2-million, out of a total of population of 7 died in less than four years.   What's equally unimaginable is this country's ability to look past these events and move on to a life of coexistence. 

Almost immediately upon Pol Pot's rise to power on April 17, 1975,  thousands of people were marched from the cities. Deaths were caused by murder, starvation or disease resulting from Khmer Rouge activity. The victim's crime was presumed attachment to the old regime, having an education, being a monk, simply wearing glasses - considered a sign of intellect -  or being a family member to someone in these categories and thus thought to be "untrainable" for this radical form of agrarian based Marxist communism. Ironically Pol Pot and  his partner, Ieng Sary, the instigators desiring to create this utopian socity among Cambodia's peasants, were themselves extremely well travelled and educated, including qualifying for college  scholarships  in Paris. But the deaths of the intelligencia, and fear created by extensive torture and killing as a means to expedite change, ultimately led to rapid failure, but not before legendary torture and deaths of millions.

                          

A 30 minute drive outside of Phnom Penh brings you to the Killing Fields at Choeung  Ek. The tall memorial houses 15 floors of human bones, grouped by type, all recovered from shallow graves from this area where thousands of deaths occurred. This tree, which today is adorned with string woven bracelets traditionally given as a sign of protection, was the site where babies were unceremoniously killed. The grounds themselves are lovely, with a pond in the center and surrounded by bucolic farmland. The explanatory signs and well done self guided tour remind you of how easily, and quickly, life can dramatically and permanently change.

                      

Nearby, Toul Sleng - S21 Genocide Museum is the preserved memorial to the 20-thousands who were detained and tortured here during Pol Pots reign. Originally a high school, classrooms were divided into individual shower-stall sized cells. Inmate details were recorded with great precision and photographed. Thousands of these photos are displayed as further testament to their time here. Other rooms tell the stories of the guards and leaders of the revolution.There are only 14 known survivors, a few of whom come to Toul Sleng to lead tours and tell their story

 Pol Pot was deposed on January 7, 1979, with the help of the Vitnamese, and moved to Thailand.   Virtually all those who  were instrumental in the punishment and killing of thousands, were spared and allowed to move to other countries in South America and the Western World. Ironically, the UN recognized the Khmer Rouge as the rightful government of Cambodia from 1979-1997. Even though a coalition government was eventually formed, the Khmer Rouge gurillas, with Pol Pots's continued influence, were active for decades and international funds were funneled through their party. 

Today Cambodia finds itself at peace. When asked about the past and how they feel about the many who live among them who were part of the Khmer Rouge, people shrug. They have a constitutional monarchy where king is adored and the Prime Minister is elected in an essentially one party system dominated by the Cambodian People's Party.  People openly practice religion, primarily Budhism. The middle class is rising.  So even though they acknowledge corruption is rampant (160 out of the 177 most corrupt nations in the world), life is better than nearly anyone can remember. 

Cambodian's either lived through or know about this fairly recent time when this part of the world seemed to be going crazy and no one came to help. Unfortunately it is a universal story that seems doomed to repeat itself. 

A day with Steve - wandering Phnom Penh

Steve is widely travelled.  However, he's a big picture guy. Nuance would not be his middle name. So, understandably, there are only so many temples and markets one can expect to hold his attention. 

We stopped at the very elegant Raffles, which immediately transports you back to Colonial days.  Jackie O stopped here in 1967, where she made the pink tinged Femme Fatale cocktail at the Elephant Bar famous.  Her lipstick stained glass and a number of wonderful photos memorialize the visit. 

                             

   

Back to the center of town, Steve rested while the rest of us traipsed through yet another market. As his reward for a long HOT day, and in preparation for the evening event with his HBS students' clients, Steve got a "proper shave".

                            

The length and size of that recently sharpened blade made the rest of us cringe, but this is how the Cambodians do it - open air and street side.  Now Steve has both a Cambodian and a Cuban barber. Even with all the extras, it's a long way from Boston, so I don't think they are too worried on Newbury Street.

Watch out Starbucks!

Cambodians are coffee drinkers - all kinds of coffe drinks and strong!  Historically, they imported most of their beans from Vietnam, the 2nd largest coffee grower in the world. However, with the increase of coffee bars, and a desire to cut out the Vietnamese middle man, growing coffee in the Cambodian highlands is on the rise.  

                        

 Brown is one of several high end chains in Phnom Penh. With a variety of interesting interiors, an amazing selection of hot and cold foods and shockingly fast internet speed, it can easily become your home away from home - even if it does take nearly 24 hours to get here. 

                                       

If your less concerned about ambiance and looking for a uniquely Cambodian experience, visit the congenial and unassuming Mr. Bounairth for the best iced coffee in Phnom Penh. And it really is. Whether laced with a healthy helping of Best Cow condensed milk, or taken straight, searching out this unassuming stall in the food court of the Toul Tumpuong (Russian Market) is absolutely worth the journey.

These little things make traveling memorable, providing tangible comparisons to what we know. It's what stays with you after so many other memories fade. 

Crashing the Party on Silk Island

From the east side of the city, there's constant activity on the Tonle Sap and Mekong River. Several days of a leisurely northern cruise would bring you to Tonle Sap Lake, along which you'd find nearby Siem Reap and the temples of Angkor. Much closer by are a number of small islands and a peninsula from which people often commute into the Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital.  If you want to do some exploring, there are numerous ferries laden with people and cars or captained wooden power boats for hire that depart from one of several small ports. 

                           

A short mile up the Tonle Sap,  you pass floating fishing villages. The fishermen and their families live on long thin boats with a single arched covering that can be easily hoisted off and set on stilts, or left on land, if there's need for full access to the deck. Netting attached to the arch, acts as closet and pantry as it secures family possessions. There's constant activity as fishing nets are mended, children hop off for a bath, wash is done and hung on land. Small motors are dropped as fisherman make their way to their section of the river. Colored bobbing bottles are reminiscent of the lobster and crab pots used in the US. 

Silk Island is a short one-hour boat ride up the Tonle Sap, yet light years away from Phnom Penh. Only a few miles long, the island is primarily agricultural, raising "small corn",  banana, morning glories and a bit of sugar cane on small family farms using a minimum of technology. Papaya, mango and the ever popular jackfruit trees appear everywhere. The majority of these crops are sold in the city. But handwoven silk is what  the island is best know for. These beautiful pieces are created on typical wooden floor looms that seem ubiquitous under the stilted homes along the mostly unpaved roads.  

       

We stumbled on a local wedding. Everyone is welcome so we stand, as inconspicuously as a couple of foreigners can, at the back of the tented area. We learned that the hired comedians are dramatically acting out feigned resistance to the traditional "hair cutting ceremony" as the wedding couple dressed in bright saffron look on. There's lots of laughter intermingled with solemn moments, to be followed by an evening of food being prepared at the outdoor kitchen and music. Maybe we could have joined the festivities, but there's more to explore in our tut tut. 

         

Further up the mostly unpaved road, we arrive at acres of palm covered huts along the river. Dozens of young people and families are gathering on this national holiday.  Independence Day, on January 7, commemorates the 1979 defeat of the Khmer Rouge, with the help of the Vietnamese. The water is delightful! The sand silky.  Large truck-tire inner tubes are used to float in the river by modestly clothed adults and often naked smiling children. People bring picnics, supplemented by the local fishing community and farmers supply of a wide selection of snacks. No one seems to mind our joining in this most welcome reprieve from the heat! 

Silk Island - a delightful sampling of how diverse life can be in Cambodia. You really must make the trip!