Thirasia - 1mile and 100 years

Everyday from where we stayed, we could see a small inhabited island with a tiny, white, hilltop village, that seemed accessible only by a very steep winding path. We couldn't resist the adventure. 

Thirasia is a 3-1/2 square mile island - huge by Useppa standards. In 236BC, the land bridge connecting it to Santorini was destroyed. Just a mile across the Aegean Sea, it couldn't be more different than the hustle of its much larger sister island.

Although swimming was briefly considered, we found a local "ferry" that goes back and forth twice a day. Don't let those steamer-type icons fool you. The ship was considerably smaller than Blue Chip, and once loaded with food and supplies for the island, there wasn't much room for its dozen passengers. The main working port of Riva had a handful of small buildings, with colorful bobbing boats that looked child sized. The "bus" we had read about that would take us up to the capital "city" of Manolis was an old flat bed with a bench seat in back which we were welcome to share with groceries. Virtually no English is spoken on Thirasia, but our elderly driver was able to communicate that the fare was 3-euros each. At three times the ferry crossing, the price seemed a bit dear, but the opportunity to avoid a long walk in the blazing sun made it a bargain. We were his only passengers. 

Being on unspoilt Therasia is absolutely stepping back in time. With few paved roads, there are probably more donkeys than motorbikes or cars. The island hosts 21 churches, all dedicated to saints protecting sailors, including Saint Irena from which Santorini gets it's name. "Villages" can be so small, that you might not realize when you've passed through one. "Stores" need no signs because there are few and the islanders know where they are, although we only spotted one. 

 

Minolas, the stretch of white buildings we could see on the rim of the caldera, is navigated via a series of steep cobblestone paths and steps that connect traditional white homes with bright trim in blue or gold. A further mile up a steep hill brings you past the island's single 6 room  lodging-house to one of the larger church buildings and the local cemetery. The minute family crypts are topped with what looks like miniature blue and white churches and enhanced with inlaid photos that bring you back through the decades. 

The one bit of English we did see was a sign pointing to the steps that bring you to Korfos, the island's second port. A cold drink at the Panorama restaurant out priced Starbucks, but it was REALLY needed before our descent. A string of donkeys looked as if they were headed down at 45-degrees. But the cobblestone steps looked more like a series of 270 platforms, so how bad could it be? Let's just say we now understand why virtually everyone, including residents, that get off the ferry at Korfos take donkeys to get up the hill. 

A series of tavernas and every variety of small boat makes up Korfos, which is a popular stopping point for people wanting a break from the hustle of Santorini. The ferry driver finishes his lunch and we re-board to return to Amoudi, the small port near Oia on the western tip of Santorini. We're happy to be back home, but wouldn't have missed Thirasia for the world. It's the picture of Greece, residing in your minds eye, that you never thought you would find. And, if your not up for an adventure, you would have never found it. 

Akrotiri - the Minoans and a Greek Island Top 10 Ancient Site

We learned that the prehistoric settlement of Akrotiri, located on the southern end of the island, was continuously inhabited from the middle of the Neolithic Age (5th millennium BC) through the Early Bronze Age (3rd millennium BC). With two sandy beaches on either side providing safe refuge for vessels and crucial proximity to Crete and Cyprus, Akritori became an ever more important regional location for trade.  Consequently the city was rebuilt several times in spite of multiple earthquakes.  The city reimerges post-earthquake in the Middle Bronze Age (2100-1600BC), creating ever more palatial multi story buildings, decorated in both the red and black lava stone and limestone of the area.  

The final rebuilding was in the Late Bronze Age, but a sudden eruption of the volcano at the beginning of the 16th century, buried the city under a thick mantle of pumice and volcanic ash, preserving evidence of the Minoan civilization lifestyle for posterity. This volcanic eruption was so huge that it created a tsunami reaching the shores of Minoan Crete, 70 miles away and, many believe, was the main contributor to the rapid decline of the highly advanced civilization. 

 The partial excavation of Ancient Akrateri is completely covered by a modern shelter that disappears into the landscape. This nearly three acre site includes 32 buildings, sewage system, in-home sanitation facilities, and hot-cold running water, all of which speak to a highly evolved cosmopolitan city. 

The sophisticated decoration and brighlt colored artifacts are typical of the Minoan civilization, who were the inhabitants during this area's protracted Bronze Age. The exquisite wooden furniture, rich household goods, including many imported items, speak to the prosperity and bourgeois mentality of its populace.

Many of the items from this extensive time period, along with the more recent artifacts and mural paintings, have been moved to the Museum of Prehistoric Thera (ancient name for Santorini) located in Fira. The colors are bright, rich and diverse. The decorative images include intricately detailed dress, birds (swallows), plants, fish and dolphins, all typical of the area. The inclusion of plants and animals, such as blue monkeys, not inherent to this part of the world, speaks to Akrateri's worldliness as a result of their important role in trade. 

The quality of the excavation and documentation rivals what we saw in Ephesus, so if your an ancient-city-junky, Akrateri is just one more reason to add Santorini to your list. 

Meandering through Santorini

We woke up to WARM weather and an unusual amount of activity in the quiet church we share a wall with on this hilltop in Imerovigli. Apparently it was carpet washing day. All that you see here were hand scrubbed by two very industrious women. I wanted to ask if they'd consider Boston, but was told permits would be involved. Much too complicated for this vacation oriented mind. 

So off we went for a day of exploring, grateful that our friends had ignored our recommendation that a car wasn't necessary. 

Ancient Thira is near the southern coast of the island, away from the large natural harbour Santorini is known for.  Inhabited from the 9th century BC - 726 AD, the city is perched 1,181-feet above sea level in the Mesavouno Mountains. We arrived via a sharp narrow stone switchback road, although others, god bless them hike up.  Large for its time at 2,624-feet by 13-feet, it was built completely of local limestone. For those with a more spiritual bent, there are pilgrimage connected paths down to Pirgos or Perissa.  Note Craig - the site closes at 2:30, so if your inclined to make the hike, leave LOTS of time. 

Kamira Beach stretches for what looks like miles, looking slightly northeast from Thira. The beach is made of well worn black lava pebbles, which help to heat the water, making it one of the most popular beaches on the island. Thatched umbrellas, lounges, a pedestrian road filled with restaurants and car-easy access doesn't hurt either. We ate at Prince and would go back there in a second.

Wineries are abundant, offering everything from guided tours to animation filled museums. We went the more traditional route. Canava Rousos was established in the mid-1800's and is considered to be the oldest on Santorini. There are only about 4 types of grapes grown on the island, but the variety of flavors range from light white minerals, to flavorful rose, a very lovely drinkable red and then a range of ever increasing sweet varieties. The round nest like way of growing the vines is specific to the island, protecting the vines from the wind and assisting irrigation by more readily capturing morning mist and allowing more contact with the ground. 

We were tempted by Canava Rousos restaurant, that was unfortunately closed for lunch. However, they were delightful hosts and the setting charming. Joe and Karen are the true wine drinkers among us and have other vineyards they'd recommend. We are perfectly willing to tag along. 

Finally back home to Estelle Villa, our hilltop home in Imerovigli.  We relax, change, appreciate the cooling temperatures and are off to nearby Oia, high above the inner coast on the northern tip, for a terrific dinner at Ambrosia. Although filled with vacationers, like ourselves, this pedestrian only town is a delight, so why not?

Santorini - wonderful in so many ways

Did we arrive here two days ago, or has it been more than a week? This small Cyclades island, only 120 miles from Greece's mainland, is proving to be the perfect balance of tranquility yet brimming activity, barren yet color filled.

With our friends Karen and Joe, we are staying in a small villa on one of the island's highest points, overlooking the caldera, or volcanic crater, that Santorini is famous for.  The eruption 3,600 years ago separated a then larger island, into Santorini and several much smaller, mostly uninhabited islands. The crater sank, creating a pool over 400m deep, thus allowing all but the largest boats safe anchorage. 

You'd never know that the most recent eruption in 1956 demolished over half of the buildings here.  Agriculture, wine making and tourism thrive. Ancient ruins and modern homes both make use of the unique black, red and white volcanic stone, although much of this is plastered over in the iconoclastic white associated with the Greek islands. Blue domed churches along with white and pastel colored homes cling to the hillsides and slope down to the sea.

There is little rainfall and virtually no irrigation. Vegetables and grapes are grown close to the ground, generally watered by morning mist and fog, resulting in compact, sweet produce.  Tomatoes, olives, cherries, eggplants, grapes an pistachios abound. Fish both fresh and smoked is plentiful.  Tender smoked white eggplant dip, small heirloom like tomatoes and innumerable dishes unique to this region make choosing what to eat both the easiest and most challenging parts of the day. Perfect!

Bicycling in London? Did anyone see Steve?

As many of you know, over the last few years, the Kaufmans have taken up bicycle riding as part of their vacation adventures. Karen wondered why Regent Street appeared to be closed and then suddenly bike riders appeared to come from nowhere. 

Recently returned from a week of hard work at the Golden Door, it begs the question, where was Mr Steve? Can you pick him out of the crowd?

The real deal: 

The London naked bike ride is a chance for all London cyclists to get out on their bikes and prove to the world that the bike is a great alternative mode of transport for travelling in the city. Partially a demonstration against oil dependency and the need to protect the environment and also a celebration of the freedom of cycling and the human body, the London event is part of the World Naked Bike Ride, which sees thousands of naked cyclists riding all over the world.

This is year number two for the UK. The 2014 London naked bike ride will go down in history as the largest ever naked protest in Britain if the total number of naked cyclists exceeds the estimated 1,000 participants. Hey, Ripley's  is just around the corner from Regent St, so why not?! 

A country outing

Jane and Richard Ganes are dear British friends from Useppa. They have been so busy building a New England style home about 60 miles outside of London, that we missed seeing them in Florida. 

We met at Tunbridge Wells, a charming old spa town, where one came to take the waters. For us, it was for catching up and wonderful lunch. At less than an hours train ride from London, in west Kent, it acts as the main town for eating and shopping when one wants to avoid the hastle of the city. 

It may also be an option when Karen craves the Cotswolds and Steve has London in mind. We both reccomend it! 

London Recap

Many meals were shared with friends, giving us the chance to catch up. There was also a meal at Palomar, a newly opened Israeli chef owned boutique restaurant we learned about in Jerusalem. It's right in the theatre district and worth a visit.

And yes - there were other activities that didn't involve food. 

Theatre both high & low brow:

"The Book of Mormon" vs "1984". 

Guess who picked which one? Both were terrific. 

Retail therapy:

Liberty, besides having timeless fabrics, continues to be a highly curated shop, that never fails to delight. 

Fortnum & Masson - it's been years - but oh what a treat!

Museums:

There are so many to choose from, but summer means two special exhibits at the Royal Academy. The Student Show may ask more quations than it answers. The Summer Exhibition you could return to again and again. With pieces in every medium, and most for sale, there are bargains to be had and something for everyone. 

The Narional Portrait Gallery's exhibit, Great War Portraits, traced WWI from before Franz Ferdinand's 1914 assasination, through the post war era when people insisted on images that more accurately portrayed what they saw from their veterans. A most memorable exhibit!  

London without rain gear ? Really!

Summer visits to London run 50:50 weather wise.  Cold and rainy or gloiously warm and bright blue skies. Luck is on our side, as rain gear remains in our bags. 

Dukes, on St James, oozes townhouse charm and is within an easy walk to everything we've planned on the north shore of the Thames. The Royal Academy's annual Summer competition, a Liberty stop & maybe ear candling in Chinatown.

With the World Cup excitement, competing with the Queens birthday celebration weekend, traffic is at all but a standstill. At Tralfalgar Square, a giant blue rooster overlooks a wild Brazilian fete. The evening view of the Thames from Golden Jubilee bridge of the London Eye & Westminster is a reminder of how magical London can be.